***04-08 I'm new here, please HELP... ***
06-26-2012, 08:20 PM
#81
I recently purchased a 2008 maxima and took it on a road trip to NC, I noticed that once I hit 70+ MPH the car would jolt, almost like I suddenly pushed the gas. I also noticed that when it did that, the RPMs would jump up. It was very sporadic and I figured maybe it was because the cruise control was on. Once the cruise control was turned off, it still had the same issue.....any thoughts???
06-26-2012, 08:38 PM
#82
Kind of a dilemma and sorry for the novel. I have been through hell this past month. This car has ran great till now. The dreaded timing chain tensioners and guides were just done. Had the Chain work and the spark plugs done at the same time 1965 out the door from reliable auto in Illinois. Picked the car up on Tuesday this week. When I hopped in it for the 1st time I came to notice that the car wouldn't accelarate correctly it almost felt as I was dragging a boat behind me. Mechanic drove it around and it died on him was able to get it restarted cleaned the throttle body then found out his machine couldn't relearn the idle. Was able to make it to nissan the shop payed for it good to go! Well thats what I thought driving that night did the same a real loud bang when I shifted into reverse and the car would barely move turned it off then on drove ok made it home. Decided maybe just a brain fart from having the battery disconnected for so long nope. Took it out maybe 5 miles going up to 45-50 mph car dies TCS off slip and SES light come on. Had it towed back to the shop replaced the Crank Sensor that what the code shows. Took it 100 plus miles the past couple days no lights but crazy paranoia that there is something just not right. I still feel as if there is something up with my RPMs the tach is as if it is really flimsy hard to describe. During downshifting it feels as if something is pulling and during acceleration it feel as if the RPMs arent matching what the amount of gas I am putting into it and sometime feel the same little jerk that caused my car to die before . This shop had fantastic reviews all over but now its got me thinking did they really know what they are doing. Any help my brain is fried. Thanks all
Does anyone know a good Nissan Mechanic around the area that could make sure this was installed correctly? Minus Nissan they would charge a ton. Batavia Illinois
Does anyone know a good Nissan Mechanic around the area that could make sure this was installed correctly? Minus Nissan they would charge a ton. Batavia Illinois
07-02-2012, 12:28 PM
#84
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 5
Anyone may correct me as they may have a better idea or I could be wrong on the newer models.
I do however remember replacing 4 back then. ya, I was none to happy, but, back then it was always an issue with them.
07-08-2012, 06:58 PM
#86
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 9
Hi I've looking on the forums to find the answer with no avail. Please help, there is the light squeaking sound, it comes and goes and when it does it squeaks at a very even tempo, like a beat almost. I saw on a couple posts that it might be tie rods or joint related but I checked for play on my front wheels where the sounds seems to be coming from, but no play? I though it could be brakes, but there is no excess heat or brake dust around the wheels and rotors after my drives which leads me to believe otherwise. Could someone direct me on where I should check next? Also at higher highway speeds, 70+, I feel a strong vibration in the steering that I don't recall getting before the squeaking occured.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Thanks in advance for your help!
07-09-2012, 02:04 PM
#87
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Alabama
Posts: 26
Headlight Switch
My niece has a 2007 Maxima. The other night the lights would come sometimes both and other times just one. Now both will not work. Done some basic checks and I am leaning towards the headlight switch. Does anyone know the wiring at the switch so i can bypass it and see for sure if that is it? Thanks in advanced. More details. I mean no headlights work, no high and no low. The fogs do not work either. Checked fuses also.
07-10-2012, 01:25 PM
#88
Hi I've looking on the forums to find the answer with no avail. Please help, there is the light squeaking sound, it comes and goes and when it does it squeaks at a very even tempo, like a beat almost. I saw on a couple posts that it might be tie rods or joint related but I checked for play on my front wheels where the sounds seems to be coming from, but no play? I though it could be brakes, but there is no excess heat or brake dust around the wheels and rotors after my drives which leads me to believe otherwise. Could someone direct me on where I should check next? Also at higher highway speeds, 70+, I feel a strong vibration in the steering that I don't recall getting before the squeaking occured.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Thanks in advance for your help!
07-10-2012, 01:32 PM
#89
My niece has a 2007 Maxima. The other night the lights would come sometimes both and other times just one. Now both will not work. Done some basic checks and I am leaning towards the headlight switch. Does anyone know the wiring at the switch so i can bypass it and see for sure if that is it? Thanks in advanced. More details. I mean no headlights work, no high and no low. The fogs do not work either. Checked fuses also.
07-11-2012, 09:49 PM
#91
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 9
Hi so I checked my bearings, jacked the car and checked for play by shaking at the 12 and 6 o clock positions and spun around the wheel for any abnormality, everything seemed fine. I noticed my rubber covering around the strut ripped while everything was jacked up and explains the occasionnal squeaking, but I can not find out why I am having the vibrations at high speeds. There is no play in my suspension and I got my tires balanced in the last 1000 miles and alignment semi recently. Any other possibilities? Any help is appreciated thanks!
07-21-2012, 11:45 AM
#92
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Alabama
Posts: 26
Thanks for the reply po8pimp. After I actually got my hands on the car and check some things, It was the headlight Ballast. Both went out at the same time after a dead battery. Apparently they don't like running on low voltage. I didn't do the the first checks, Her boyfriend and a friend did. So I was a little misinformed. Both Ballast had 12v power and ground. Tested the headlight bulbs from the ballast in my car. Ordered two off ebay and popped them in and the lights work great!!
07-26-2012, 11:52 AM
#94
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
i am new to the forum too i have an '07 se with the cvt tranny -- only have 43k miles on it-- just got mine back from the dealer-- had to have a new tranny put in-- they apparently can't repair these trannies only replace them-- i had your problems plus lost 5th and 6th gear before it was fixed-- nissan will cover the repair if you have less than 60k miles on yours--- Joe
08-16-2012, 01:24 PM
#95
If so what are the codes? If you don't know have them scanned and post them. I would say go to Oriley auto or Auto Zone, but you can't drive it. I recommend investing in a OBD2 scanner or have a friend check for you.
09-05-2012, 05:38 AM
#96
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The Islands
Posts: 26
Hi!
The dome light switch, which controls if you want the dome lights to be on or off when you open the doors, in my 2005 Max SL just broke off. :-(
If possible, where do I just buy the switch itself? (Light grey/silver with white lettering)
Or do I have to change the whole console?
The tiny spring in the switch fell into the parking brake console (I can't get it out, don't know how to), otherwise I think I have the electronic parts that go with the switch.
I have no control over whether I can turn the dome lights on or off when the doors open.
Thanks in advance for help!
The dome light switch, which controls if you want the dome lights to be on or off when you open the doors, in my 2005 Max SL just broke off. :-(
If possible, where do I just buy the switch itself? (Light grey/silver with white lettering)
Or do I have to change the whole console?
The tiny spring in the switch fell into the parking brake console (I can't get it out, don't know how to), otherwise I think I have the electronic parts that go with the switch.
I have no control over whether I can turn the dome lights on or off when the doors open.
Thanks in advance for help!
Last edited by FantaLady23; 09-05-2012 at 05:53 AM.
10-09-2012, 12:28 PM
#97
Hi!
The dome light switch, which controls if you want the dome lights to be on or off when you open the doors, in my 2005 Max SL just broke off. :-(
If possible, where do I just buy the switch itself? (Light grey/silver with white lettering)
Or do I have to change the whole console?
The tiny spring in the switch fell into the parking brake console (I can't get it out, don't know how to), otherwise I think I have the electronic parts that go with the switch.
I have no control over whether I can turn the dome lights on or off when the doors open.
Thanks in advance for help!
The dome light switch, which controls if you want the dome lights to be on or off when you open the doors, in my 2005 Max SL just broke off. :-(
If possible, where do I just buy the switch itself? (Light grey/silver with white lettering)
Or do I have to change the whole console?
The tiny spring in the switch fell into the parking brake console (I can't get it out, don't know how to), otherwise I think I have the electronic parts that go with the switch.
I have no control over whether I can turn the dome lights on or off when the doors open.
Thanks in advance for help!
I was looking around for solutions and possible methods of repairing just the switch, but it seems like we have no other options but to buy the entire assembly. From what I've been reading, a used replacement costs around $100
. Not sure how much it costs brand new.I've been checking ebay but so far have not been able to find one. If you have access to some junkyards in your country, you may be able to find one there.
10-30-2012, 03:57 AM
#98
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 3
We drive home in the trade in (Saturn) and are supposed to pickup the car on Monday 10/31/20011(Haloween). I call on Monday to find out what is wrong with the car and they tell me it has not ever been checked into the shop for service and they have no idea what is going on since they have not seen the vehicle.
12-06-2012, 03:17 PM
#99
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MN
Posts: 1
04 Maxima Check Engine Light question
Hi, new to this board, thanks for reading. I am a lifetime Nissan driver, have had 3 altimas, 2 maximas, an Armada, Murano, and yes a Quest. I have kids:-0
My maxima has had a ton of maintenance issues including side wall cracking, complete clutch replacement, door handle actuator, Bose stereo CD wiring harness short, O2 sensors, blah blah blah. All told I have spent over $15k in maintenance on this vehicle. It has never had body work and looks brand new inside.
My current issues are as follows: 1) bad ball joint, 2) CE light is on, Cat Converter Bank 1, fix replace bank, and 3) smells of gasoline inside. Cost to repair ball join is ~$500, CC could be anywhere from$500-2500, and no idea on the gas smell issue. I have 121500 miles on it.
Do I fix, do I sell, do I wait and see. just looking for some other perspective. I want to be loyal to Nissan but this is not a lamborghini. I cant keep throwing good money after bad.
My maxima has had a ton of maintenance issues including side wall cracking, complete clutch replacement, door handle actuator, Bose stereo CD wiring harness short, O2 sensors, blah blah blah. All told I have spent over $15k in maintenance on this vehicle. It has never had body work and looks brand new inside.
My current issues are as follows: 1) bad ball joint, 2) CE light is on, Cat Converter Bank 1, fix replace bank, and 3) smells of gasoline inside. Cost to repair ball join is ~$500, CC could be anywhere from$500-2500, and no idea on the gas smell issue. I have 121500 miles on it.
Do I fix, do I sell, do I wait and see. just looking for some other perspective. I want to be loyal to Nissan but this is not a lamborghini. I cant keep throwing good money after bad.
01-08-2013, 06:32 AM
#101
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 671
You will be fine since Nissan made the CVT standard on 07-08 you have a low likelyhood of experiencing the common transmission trouble most of us have with 04 thru 06. My best advice if you have warranty and you haven't had your timing chain replaced yet i'd do it early for prevantitive.
02-21-2013, 09:49 AM
#104
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 671
If anybody here is experiencing a steering wheel vibration. Go to discount tire and go get a roadforce balance. The problem boils down to the tires. I had the same issue but when I upgraded to 22inch wheels 245/30 R22 the problem went away.
03-11-2013, 09:23 PM
#105
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 11
06 maxima
I think you have the right approach, however if it was me and owning a 5speed, and knowing what I know now, I would go straight to step 2. If you choose to do that, I recommend you go on a test drive with the person doing the work, so they can write down how the trans acts prior to the repair. Then make sure they do it right and everything is shifting proper afterward. Also make sure you let them know that some people have noticed springs in the valve body being stuck, and to check them while they are in there. If you look at my thread: http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...ssion-fix.html , you will see the items listed on what is needed to be purchased prior to. $350 for install is just a quote on the work, not on the materials used. There will be extra charges. If you bring your own fluid, you could save a significant amount of money. Good luck and post your experience and results in the thread I provided.
what should i try next???
10-31-2013, 10:26 AM
#107
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1
Hey all, just bought a 2005 SL from a private seller. No real problems so far, although they forgot to mention headlight and foglight were out on one side but no biggie.
What I'm more worried about is when I'm driving, the car sort of clunks into first gear. I first noticed it when braking (automatic tranny) but it also does it when I'm accelerating.
I've done a little research and I'm thinking it might be the valve body, solenoids, or some combination but tbh I'm not the most car savvy.
Any insight would be appreciated
What I'm more worried about is when I'm driving, the car sort of clunks into first gear. I first noticed it when braking (automatic tranny) but it also does it when I'm accelerating.
I've done a little research and I'm thinking it might be the valve body, solenoids, or some combination but tbh I'm not the most car savvy.
Any insight would be appreciated
11-07-2013, 01:44 PM
#109
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1
06 Maxima Starts Fine But Wont Go Into Drive
I recently purchased an '06 Maxima, auto, 3.0L about 75000 km's. I went to start it after work yesterday and the car would start and run fine but will not allow me to shift it into drive. A couple other things I noticed are as follows: headlights work, instrument panel lights work, electronic display screen does not work, interiror lights do not work, electronic seat adjusters do not work. It had done this one time previously so i pull the battery cable to do a hard reset and it worked fine after that. I would gladly get it towed to my mechanic however it is currently parked in an underground parkade. I have no issues paying someone to fix whatever the major issue is but in order for me to do that I have to at least get it into neutral. Thanks for any help.
11-18-2013, 04:58 PM
#112
04 Maxima Head Lights
I have a 2004 Maxima with Halogen Lights, If I buy the entire xenon Head lights Assy will it plug in and work? If not has anyone wired one in? I know people hate the "HID Kits" because of the beam cutoff. I don't mind buying a used set of oem xenon lights, just want to make sure its relatively simple. Thanks for your help....noob
01-14-2014, 06:26 PM
#114
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 4
07 Maxima acceleration problems
Please need help (this is going to be short becuase I just typed three pages and I think it deleted it all.)
I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima 3.5L that takes 15 second to accelerate to 0-60. From 0-40 it flattens out and stays at 7oooRPM until you let off the gas. When it reaches 7,000RPMs there is a grinding (like rocks in a fan).
I took it the dealership two techs drove it said there were no issues and that there were no computer indicators so I took them out with me driving. When it took 16 seconds and we still had not made it to 60mph they agreed something was wrong.
After looking it over again they said the exhaust tubes were clogged and needed replaced. Everything I found online says if the tubes are clogged there is a problem with something else.
Im scheduled to pick it up friday what I need to know is did the grinding cause problems somewhere else in the engine or transmission that they should be looking at also? It's got the 10 year/ 120,000 warranty so I want to make sure I get the whole problem resolved before the warranty is up.
Any help is greatly appreciated thank you very much.
I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima 3.5L that takes 15 second to accelerate to 0-60. From 0-40 it flattens out and stays at 7oooRPM until you let off the gas. When it reaches 7,000RPMs there is a grinding (like rocks in a fan).
I took it the dealership two techs drove it said there were no issues and that there were no computer indicators so I took them out with me driving. When it took 16 seconds and we still had not made it to 60mph they agreed something was wrong.
After looking it over again they said the exhaust tubes were clogged and needed replaced. Everything I found online says if the tubes are clogged there is a problem with something else.
Im scheduled to pick it up friday what I need to know is did the grinding cause problems somewhere else in the engine or transmission that they should be looking at also? It's got the 10 year/ 120,000 warranty so I want to make sure I get the whole problem resolved before the warranty is up.
Any help is greatly appreciated thank you very much.
01-14-2014, 06:40 PM
#116
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 4
Chris Alexander could that be an ongoing issue. I think the car has had this issue since 2011 when I bought it just never noticed it. About 18 months ago I raced my buddy in his Delta 88 or Buick (Old crappy car) from a stop light. He beat me but never gave it much thought until I heard the grinding noise the other day. Also one morning I was leaving for work the car would not let me go past 70. Heard the same grinding noise.
Thanks again
Thanks again
01-14-2014, 06:45 PM
#117
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 671
I'm thinking it's either that or you need to change your spark plugs. When you raced that Delta 88 it probably looked like a boat on the water jumping up and down that man in there was bouncing everywhere.
Before you get it worked on go to Wal Mart and get some of this clean your fuel system out
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Oil-...32-oz/16777813
Either Cat is clogged
the sparks are bad
or something with the fuel have you used regular unleaded?
Before you get it worked on go to Wal Mart and get some of this clean your fuel system out
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Oil-...32-oz/16777813
Either Cat is clogged
the sparks are bad
or something with the fuel have you used regular unleaded?
Last edited by Chris Alexander; 01-14-2014 at 06:47 PM.
01-14-2014, 06:51 PM
#118
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 4
Chris
I had sears put new brakes and rotors on it. During that they recommended a $100 fuel treatment that I had them do.
I have used super unleaded ethanol, but mostly just unleaded. From hickville not a lot of premium gas stations around. Didn't tell the dealership at us it says premium recommended above the cap.
Should I always drive around until I find premium fuel or will regular work? They said they are replacing my exhaust tubes under warranty so no bill yet.
I had sears put new brakes and rotors on it. During that they recommended a $100 fuel treatment that I had them do.
I have used super unleaded ethanol, but mostly just unleaded. From hickville not a lot of premium gas stations around. Didn't tell the dealership at us it says premium recommended above the cap.
Should I always drive around until I find premium fuel or will regular work? They said they are replacing my exhaust tubes under warranty so no bill yet.
01-14-2014, 06:55 PM
#119
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 671
lkenny run it empty and go fill it up with premium and then you should get a difference. that's probably what's wrong with it because if you use below 93 you're gonna have performance issues. don't use middle grade either you'll get subpar performance the engine is made to run on premium.
When gas was 7 dollars a gallon out here in Texas I tried that middle grade 89 and my car was mad at me on the highway it did just what yours is doing.
When gas was 7 dollars a gallon out here in Texas I tried that middle grade 89 and my car was mad at me on the highway it did just what yours is doing.
