TMRsuccess08

Good day everyone! I have a 2004 Nissan Maxima SE 6 speed with the 3.5L. I just recently purchased the vehicle and was told it has a 2008 engine in there currently. Here's the rundown; when I go to start the vehicle, it cranks but DOES NOT start 🤔. Once I release the key back to the ON position, I wait 5 seconds and try to start it again. This time the engine starts after about 4 seconds of cranking. Also, the crankshaft sensor pigtail connector is not plugged in at the time I start it. When I plug the connector in, it doesn't start whatsoever. My question is, couldnit be in the wiring itself? I canned the codes and it gave me the P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor circuit A, in which I replaced the sensor with a duralast part And still the problem persisted. What could it be? And thank you all in advance!

smittybizzle

Not sure, could be a wiring issue, worst case you need a harness but hopefully it's not that.

TMRsuccess08

Thanks for the reply! And I too hope that it's not a wiring issue. I can wire my own if need be but I'm currently looking online at specs for ohm readings on the sensor and voltage readings at the connector. But of course, nothing has caught my eye.

Tarzan

I have a new Delphi CPS in the glove box just in case. If I remember to do so, I can measure resistance over the weekend.

TMRsuccess08

Thank you Tarzan !! I would greatly appreciate it!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The Nissan FSM has the resistance checking procedure in it

Section EC page 280.

Link - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2004/EC.pdf

TMRsuccess08

Ok thank you DennisMik I appreciate all of you for the help! I will check this today since it's my first day off in a while. Thanks again for everything!

TMRsuccess08

So I read the specs DennisMik posted and it says on my wiring connector it has three terminals.. looking at the connector it goes from left to right 1,2,3. Number one is supposed to have battery voltage when the key is switched on. But it does not. number 3 on the other hand has 12.71 volts while the key is on. So would an option be to cut number 1 and number 3 wires and swap them? Or would this cause more problems and fry the ECU possibly?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

No - DO NOT cut and splice wires. If you go to page 278 and read step (or line) 3, there is a difference in which pin will have 12 volts on it based on which one of 3 transmissions is in the car:
quote - 3. Check voltage between CKP sensor (POS) terminal 3 (with 5 A/T) or terminal 1 (except 5 A/T) and ground with CONSULT-II or tester. - end quote.

Manual trans or 4 speed auto will have 12 volts on pin 1.
5 speed auto will have 12 volts on pin 3.

What I think is that by finding 12 volts at the connector, you have verified that the wires are OK. Another thing is that maybe you are looking at the connector backwards. If you look at the bottom of page 276, the crankshaft sensor connector (# F11) is drawn with a single line. This means that you have the connector unplugged and are looking at the end of it. If you have left the connector plugged in, then the pin numbers as you read them left to right are 1 2 3.

reference: section GI page 12, half way down, right side.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2004/GI.pdf

TMRsuccess08

Ok thank you! And I thought the PIN numbers were by me disconnecting the connector and looking at it that way. But just as you said, I have 12.7 V at the connector but it still has a delay. I will check the camshaft position sensors next alon with the voltage at the starter. I will do the tests tonight after work and let you all know what I find! Thanks again

Costee

It seems the sensor has to be warm to be able to determine its integrity off vehicle. The FSM states to check "Resistance Ω [at 25°C (77°F).]" Am I missing something? I'd be glad to see what you come up with.

Tarzan

No, that does not mean it needs to be warm - it only indicates at what temperature the nominal resistance has been measured. It changes with temp, so at 70 degree it will be slightly less, and at 90 it will be slightly more. The above note gives you a baseline.

Costee

Ok. Did you get to measure the one with you?

TMRsuccess08

Ok the one on my vehicle I measured about a week ago, and it's resistance if I can remember correctly was between 0.457-0.473 ohms. I'm starting to think it's the camshaft positions sensors. I'm going to suck it up and buy them tomorrow and install and let you all know if it works or not. I currently don't have access to an O-scope to get the readings. Thank you all for the replies!

Tarzan

0.4 Ohm sounds like almost a short circuit, I would expect something on the magnitued of 10x that.

No, I did not get to measure my CPS as parents took the car for the weekend and I only see it on the weekends. Will try to swing by in the next few days, again, if senility does not kick in.

TMRsuccess08

Ok that's perfectly fine Tarzan thanks for everything! And it's no rush, I am able to start it everyday and make it to school and work so I'm grateful! And I'll try and read the specs on the camshaft sensors as well and collect the data on them. Thanks again to you all for your help.

Tarzan

For the record, if you place the CPS with the mounting hole to the left and the sensor body facing upwards, then resistivity between the pins is as follows (1 is left, 3 is right):
1-2 1.1 KOhm
1-3 1.8 MOhm
2-3 1.8 MOhm
3-2 3.8 MOhm
3-1 3.8 MOhm
2-1 1.1 KOhm
The first pin is always positive lead of the Ohm meter. Sounds like there is a diode or a transistor inside.

TMRsuccess08

Thank you very much! I greatly appreciate it! But last question and then I will type the data specs I have tested... is the second reading supposed to be 1-3? I just want to make sure I get this right.

smittybizzle

So did you fix the issue?

Tarzan

You are correct, this was a typo, fixed now.

TMRsuccess08

Thank you all for the help! It was indeed the camshaft position sensor at the front of the engine. I appreciate all the help! Now to buy new injectors ��. It's like a never ending story haha. Thanks again for all your help!