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7th Gen Tires/Brakes
How many miles are people getting out of the original brake pads and Goodyear Eagle RSA 245/45/18 tires ?
For those who have higher miles have you had to replace any calipers, rotors or other brake system parts either under or out of warranty? Thanks |
Just replaced my OE tires at 46k. Brake are good but I'm doing those next.
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I'm at 37K, going strong with both OEM tires and OEM brakes.
Many folks have been unhappy with these OEM RS-As, but mine have ridden very smoothly, have worn very evenly, still have around 5K to 8K of tread left, and have never required balancing since I bought the car. And I am not one to tolerate anything but a smooth ride. I did have the tires rotated at 15K and 30K, with instructions to the service tech to not try rebalancing the tires, as they were perfect. I will admit that my experience is probably not the norm. Others here will attest to that. I remember some vibration on the brakes of my previous six Maximas (gens 2 through 6), often from very early after buying them. And I usually had to have the tires rebalanced several times during their life with each of those Maximas. But the OEM brakes and tires on my 7th gen have been the best OEM tires and brakes I have had in over 64 years of driving. |
I kept my tires about 28k miles, they looked like they would last another 5k miles but had NO wet traction. Replaced with some Michellins that I have been very happy with. At 37k miles they tell me my brakes are less than halfway worn, however I will be replacing them soon, they have seriously been warped since about 3,000 miles.
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Orignal brakes and 52 k miles still have 40% left on pads
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29,000 on OEM tires and I expect to replace at 40-45,000 miles which should approximate the start of next winter. Car is used for interstate commuting 90% of the miles. Brakes are in fine shape with plenty of "meat" front and rear.
I am not a big Goodyear fan but would consider replacing with them. |
About 72K on the RSAs...another 110K on my first set of Michelin MXV4s and about 20K on the Current set of MXV4s. No brakework required yet but I drive 80-90% freeway.
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52k on the original tires.
60k on the rear pads, and then turned rotors. Front brakes still at 40% |
Thanks guys,
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Originally Posted by Torchcorvette
(Post 8784410)
29,000 on OEM tires and I expect to replace at 40-45,000 miles which should approximate the start of next winter. Car is used for interstate commuting 90% of the miles. Brakes are in fine shape with plenty of "meat" front and rear.
I am not a big Goodyear fan but would consider replacing with them. |
Originally Posted by lightonthehill
(Post 8784266)
I'm at 37K, going strong with both OEM tires and OEM brakes.
Many folks have been unhappy with these OEM RS-As, but mine have ridden very smoothly, have worn very evenly, still have around 5K to 8K of tread left, and have never required balancing since I bought the car. And I am not one to tolerate anything but a smooth ride. I did have the tires rotated at 15K and 30K, with instructions to the service tech to not try rebalancing the tires, as they were perfect. I will admit that my experience is probably not the norm. Others here will attest to that. I remember some vibration on the brakes of my previous six Maximas (gens 2 through 6), often from very early after buying them. And I usually had to have the tires rebalanced several times during their life with each of those Maximas. But the OEM brakes and tires on my 7th gen have been the best OEM tires and brakes I have had in over 64 years of driving. @ 23K I have learned the limits of these tires and how far they can be pushed and I don't exceed them. Will I re-purchase them when I need new tires? No. As far as breaks go I don't feel the need to go any farther than possibly a step up in pads. |
I have 60K miles on original OEM tires and brakes. Going to be taking it in next week to have the brakes pads replaced. Service manager on the phone is telling me I need to also have the rotors turned when I replace the pads. Never heard of doing that unless the rotors need to be turned because they are warped.
Is my dealer full of it or is this standard practice now??? |
Originally Posted by iscripter
(Post 8861715)
I have 60K miles on original OEM tires and brakes. Going to be taking it in next week to have the brakes pads replaced. Service manager on the phone is telling me I need to also have the rotors turned when I replace the pads. Never heard of doing that unless the rotors need to be turned because they are warped.
Is my dealer full of it or is this standard practice now??? |
I changed my OEM goodyears at 32k because i had no wet traction at all. Changed to the Michelin primacys. Brakes are still 60% at 37k
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Originally Posted by wtgkb8
(Post 8861723)
Has always been standard practice when I replaced brake pads on any vehicle. Always good to have a clean...new surface for new pads to adhere to. Rotors could have small ridges that...while maybe only minor and not bad if putting old pads back on...new pads could take longer to seat properly on the non smooth rotor (however minor).
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Well, I'm only 1000 miles in, so no where close, but I drive about 65k+/year. I am wanting to try those Pirelli P7 all season plus tires. My wife's M37 needs new tires now so I may just change those and test them.
Where did yall get your brakes done? And what did you use? |
I just bought my 2010 with 32000 miles on it. The rotors were warped so the dealer replaced pads and rotors with nissan oem parts. Tires were also replaced so I assume they had less then 4mm of tread left since thats the minimum for a CPO...
My previous car was an '05 Altima 3.5SE. I put 200,000 miles on it and had very good luck with Brembo OEM replacement rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads and Bridgestone Serenity tires. I was getting about 65,000 miles out of the tires with nice even wear. Tires rotated every 7500 miles with oil change. I used Mobil 1. I replaced the front brakes on the car twice, and the rear's once. Keep in mind this car was driven mostly on the highway so brakes last pretty long. Usualy I'd get a shimmy in the wheel and just replace the rotors and pads. Dont bother turning rotors anymore. New ones are cheap enough and turned rotors just warp quickly... |
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