Brake booster replaced, new “problem”
05-22-2018, 01:04 PM
#1
Brake booster replaced, new “problem”
So about 2 weeks ago I had my brake booster replaced (for the second time) due to the rubber boot squeaking like crazy. But after this replacement I had a new “issue” with it. Now, after about 30 minutes of my car sitting without being on I will go to start it up and the brake is super hard to push, as if someone pumped the brakes with the car off. Due to my car being push start it’s pretty annoying to have to use more force than normal to get my car started. In my 4 1/2 years of owing this car this has NEVER happened. Even after the first booster replacement. Hell, even in my 17 years of driving have I never got into a car and the brakes be that way. I brought it up to my service rep, she brought it up the mechanic and the service manager himself. They all said it was normal. I truly do not accept that. It’s not normal. It just can’t be. Especially for a push start. Now 2 weeks after the replacement it now seems my brakes take more travel for them to engage while driving. Normally at about half brake pedal travel my brakes will start to engage, but now it about 3/4 brake pedal travel my brakes barely start to kick in. With them fully holding my car I now have about an inch or less of travel before the pedal bottoms out or comes to the end of its travel. On top of the original issue, which is also getting worse imo. Meaning they seem to be getting harder and harder to push just so I can start my car. Someone please tell me I’m right about my assumptions. I would really appreciate some input and/or advice on this.
05-23-2018, 08:36 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,648
The booster is probably bad or not adjusted properly (pushing the brake pedal almost to the floor) or there could be a vacuum leak, but that would cause engine performance problems. Any codes thrown?
Who installed the booster? I would take it back to get it working as it should. What you are describing is not normal by any stretch. My 09 starts braking as soon as I press on the pedal and starting the car the brake pedal pushes in easily.
Who installed the booster? I would take it back to get it working as it should. What you are describing is not normal by any stretch. My 09 starts braking as soon as I press on the pedal and starting the car the brake pedal pushes in easily.
05-25-2018, 07:37 PM
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Chantilly, DMV
Posts: 28
The hard pedal is definitely caused by some sort of air leak. The diaphragm in the new booster could be damaged and causing your vacuum loss. However judging by the fact that you haven't mentioned any issues with a stiff pedal with the engine running, I would rule that one out. It's more likely the rubber grommet on the left of the booster isn't seated properly. It's where the plastic elbow for the vacuum line connects to the booster. The tech probably didn't install properly. OR the one-way valve inside the vacuum line has failed. I would start with option 2.
05-25-2018, 07:53 PM
#8
Well I took it to Nissan today. They checked it out claimed it was all normal. Had the shop foreman specifically look at and he said everything was “within spec”. I just can’t vugbinto this at all. I’ve owned my car for 5 years. Never has my car ever acted like this to wear it takes a great amount of force to push my brake pedal down just to start my car. My cars brakes always felt the exact same whether on or off I could let my car sit for days without operation and then I could get in and start it and the brakes would feel the exact same as if it was on and running. Due to them “not finding failure” with anything they can’t and won’t replace it. It’s beyond frustrating. I know how my car acts and feels. I should know, it’s my car. Not theirs.
05-26-2018, 09:22 AM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Chantilly, DMV
Posts: 28
Engine vacuum is supplied to your brake booster in order to assist with braking. It does this with a rubber hose connected from the back of the intake manifold to the elbow on the front of the brake booster. When you turn the engine off, a one-way valve inside that rubber hose closes and holds a negative pressure inside the brake booster. This allows for 3-5 vacuum assisted pumps of the brake pedal with the engine off. This vacuum will remain inside the booster for quite a long time unless acted upon by some outside force. (ie, pressing the brake pedal or introduction of atmospheric pressure [air leak])
If after sitting for 30 minutes the booster loses this vacuum pressure, there is definitely, 100% a leak somewhere in the system. One thing to remember is that dealer techs are on flat rate, and depending on what kind of day you catch them on, they may not have "time" for your issue. I'm not looking to make excuses for the lack of professionalism of the techs, but just looking to give you a little insight into the mind of some technicians.
What I would recommend doing is sending an email to the service manager, and CC the GM. This way you can work with the service manager, the adviser, and the technician to create an "action plan" in order for the technician to effectively duplicate your issue. There is usually a breakdown in communication between you, the adviser, and the technician. Be as detailed as possible to describe what needs to be done in order for the failure to occur. Always remember, the squeaky wheel gets the grease. Do not let your previous visit deter you from getting the vehicle fixed.
In order to help get you by in the meantime, the brake pedal only needs to be pushed about one centimeter in order to start the vehicle. The brake switch is located at the top of the pedal and requires very little travel in order to engage the switch. This is unlike a clutch pedal, where the switch is located at the bottom of the pedal travel. A clutch pedal needs to be pressed to the floor in order to engage the clutch switch, whereas the brake pedal only needs to be pressed no more than 1/4" in order to engage the brake switch.
If after sitting for 30 minutes the booster loses this vacuum pressure, there is definitely, 100% a leak somewhere in the system. One thing to remember is that dealer techs are on flat rate, and depending on what kind of day you catch them on, they may not have "time" for your issue. I'm not looking to make excuses for the lack of professionalism of the techs, but just looking to give you a little insight into the mind of some technicians.
What I would recommend doing is sending an email to the service manager, and CC the GM. This way you can work with the service manager, the adviser, and the technician to create an "action plan" in order for the technician to effectively duplicate your issue. There is usually a breakdown in communication between you, the adviser, and the technician. Be as detailed as possible to describe what needs to be done in order for the failure to occur. Always remember, the squeaky wheel gets the grease. Do not let your previous visit deter you from getting the vehicle fixed.
In order to help get you by in the meantime, the brake pedal only needs to be pushed about one centimeter in order to start the vehicle. The brake switch is located at the top of the pedal and requires very little travel in order to engage the switch. This is unlike a clutch pedal, where the switch is located at the bottom of the pedal travel. A clutch pedal needs to be pressed to the floor in order to engage the clutch switch, whereas the brake pedal only needs to be pressed no more than 1/4" in order to engage the brake switch.
05-26-2018, 09:50 AM
#10
Kickinwing:
Thank you for your reply. I’ve had this issue for going on a month now. I’ve been beyond detailed about my issues. I’ve had 2 techs, service manager, service advisor and now the shop foreman all day it’s normal. Clearlynit is not. I’ve even had them start my car from a cold start and they have felt my issue clearly. But still they are saying it’s normal. I’m a little mechanically inclined as I worked at a ford dealership for 2 years and trained a little with my brother who is a ford certified tech and diesel tech. So I know a little beyond the basics and well aware of how a car works and what does what. So I knew the booster is loosing vacuum. Problem is, how do they not ? I’ve asked to speak to the GM as well and suprise I just missed him. I’ve spent a little over $1500 at their dealership and I’ve made it clear I will not be returning and I should NEVER have to walk out of their saying “well I guess I’ll just deal with the issue.” It’s beyond frustrating. Looks like I’ll be fixing it myself.
Thank you for your reply. I’ve had this issue for going on a month now. I’ve been beyond detailed about my issues. I’ve had 2 techs, service manager, service advisor and now the shop foreman all day it’s normal. Clearlynit is not. I’ve even had them start my car from a cold start and they have felt my issue clearly. But still they are saying it’s normal. I’m a little mechanically inclined as I worked at a ford dealership for 2 years and trained a little with my brother who is a ford certified tech and diesel tech. So I know a little beyond the basics and well aware of how a car works and what does what. So I knew the booster is loosing vacuum. Problem is, how do they not ? I’ve asked to speak to the GM as well and suprise I just missed him. I’ve spent a little over $1500 at their dealership and I’ve made it clear I will not be returning and I should NEVER have to walk out of their saying “well I guess I’ll just deal with the issue.” It’s beyond frustrating. Looks like I’ll be fixing it myself.
05-26-2018, 10:55 AM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Chantilly, DMV
Posts: 28
I'm sorry that you had such a terrible experience at the dealer. It seems to be all too common these days. If you're really looking to "stick it to the dealer", or at least attempt to, I might consider calling Nissan consumer affairs. 1800NISSAN1 Considering this was a failed warranty repair, they may be able to help you out.
Or I might suggest taking it to another Nissan dealer. Just explain to them your issue and they should be able to help. I would probably have to recommend to NOT mention the fact that your brake booster was just replaced at a different Nissan dealership. They may try to pull a fast one and tell you that you need to take it back to where you had the work done in order to have it repaired under warranty.
Just out of curiosity, where are you located?
Or I might suggest taking it to another Nissan dealer. Just explain to them your issue and they should be able to help. I would probably have to recommend to NOT mention the fact that your brake booster was just replaced at a different Nissan dealership. They may try to pull a fast one and tell you that you need to take it back to where you had the work done in order to have it repaired under warranty.
Just out of curiosity, where are you located?
05-26-2018, 01:31 PM
#12
Oh I’m planning to take it to another Nissan dealership as soon as I get the chance. I’ve been debating whether to mention the current situation to them or not. See, the work I had done was done under an extended warranty. I only paid $100 deductible. My factory has been done with for awhile, currently sitting at 70k miles. So either maybe they can replace and repair under the booster 1 year warranty or I would just have to lay yet ANOTHER $100 to basically start over. The dealership I will be going to knows me well as I’ve been there plenty of times in the past for warranty work for this same car. But I live in Texas.
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