Car stops accelerating with no warning or reason
11-15-2018, 07:21 AM
#1
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Limp mode with new battery and alternator- HELP!!!
4 days ago, I picked my daughter up from her dad and as we left the gas station, got onto the highway and began to accelerate, my 2010 Nissan Maxima just stopped going completely. The car didn’t shut off, it made no sounds to indicate that there was a problem or anything. I pulled into a gas station right beside us, put it in park and back into drive and tried to go again. It wouldn’t do more than maybe 5 MPH. The car never turned off or anything. It just wouldn’t go any faster than a slow roll. My husband came and picked us up and bought and new battery and replaced it. It’s been acting fine ever since then but yesterday as I was getting my 3 girls ready for school and daycare, I came outside and cranked the car and turned the heater on like I do every morning. I went back inside, finished getting everyone ready, got them all loaded into the car and all the lights on the dash were off. Radio, clock, everything. I turned the car off and tried to crank it again and it acted as if the brand new battery was dead. My husband is in another state working so my stepdad came and picked us up and got us all to where we need to be. He came back to my house and put a charger on my battery and today my car has been doing fine but something is definitely wrong. The alternator was replaced in January. We took it to a shop this morning and they said the battery and alternator are totally fine. The only lights that have been coming on on the dash are my VDC and parking brake light. The VDC light never turns off but the parking brake light comes and goes. Can someone please tell me what the issue is? The shop we took it to said they can’t tell us what the problem is without the check engine light on but it has never turned on.
Last edited by Stacie Belair Watts; 11-15-2018 at 09:01 AM.
11-15-2018, 08:15 AM
#2
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The VDC and Slip Light illumination could be an indication that you are getting low on brake fluid, due to worn brake pads. Low brake fluid could cause the throttle control to kick in when a sudden vehicle movement is made, causing the vehicle to lose speed.
Could be all related. Have someone check the brake fluid level and fill it if its below the maximum line. If you are still having problems then a diagnostic trip to the dealership is needed.
Could be all related. Have someone check the brake fluid level and fill it if its below the maximum line. If you are still having problems then a diagnostic trip to the dealership is needed.
11-15-2018, 09:20 AM
#4
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The real tell-all here is that with car running at idle, it drained the battery. Sounds like the new alternator didn't have enough voltage at low RPM, and the car was pulling power from the battery for spark and other electronics, thus it needed the external charger.
The shop that said that the alternator is fine, are they the same shop that put it in? If so, there is likely some liability concerns on their part, hence they are telling you it's fine, leaving you with an uneasy situation. ALso, was it rebuilt or new OEM? Either way, it's possible an alternator can be bad or go bad this quick. I'd be thinking it was the root of your problem all over again.
The shop that said that the alternator is fine, are they the same shop that put it in? If so, there is likely some liability concerns on their part, hence they are telling you it's fine, leaving you with an uneasy situation. ALso, was it rebuilt or new OEM? Either way, it's possible an alternator can be bad or go bad this quick. I'd be thinking it was the root of your problem all over again.
11-15-2018, 09:22 AM
#5
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And as stated, definitely check the brake fluid level, it shouldn't be causing the limp mode or battery drain, but you need to be 100% sure the sensor there isn't triggered by the low fluid. But the brake light coming and going is often a sign of the electrical system not working well too...
11-15-2018, 09:27 AM
#6
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Lastly, a faulty or weak ground could cause odd electrical issues. I had an 07 a few years ago and actually installed a full grounding kit. Amazing how different the car was with it. That said, a grounding kit isn't going to enhance or increase performance, but what it does do is rekindle a possibly weak ground connection from the factory terminals. Just some though. I'd definitely check connectors, especially on the alternator and from the neg battery to the chassis.
11-15-2018, 09:29 AM
#7
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No. It wasn’t the same shop that put the new alternator in and it wasn’t the OEM. It was a general repair shop. I bought this car from a family friend that lives in another state in February. She provided all the receipts for everything she had done to it. My husband just started a new job so we’re low on funds at the moment and my parents are having to pay for the repairs so I’m trying to figure out exactly what the problem is instead of them spending way more than they should just for someone to tell us what’s wrong then overcharge us to fix it. I have our 7 year old, 2 year old and 6 month old on my own while my husband is away so I need my car to be running reliably ASAP
11-15-2018, 10:17 AM
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Yeah, one thing I'll never do again is install rebuilt anything, and aftermarket is sketchy too. Back in the day when you could install your own alternator and starter, I went with the rebuilt, and installed them myself. Install was easy enough, but you still had to get dirty. I learned on several occasions that the rebuilts are hit and miss. I think on the starter I replaced it 2 or 3 times with rebuilds, the part was a free replacement up to like 90 days or one year, (can't remember), but I think the third one was out of the warrantee, so I had to pay and replace it again, all in cost me more in time and money then the OEM would have.
What I'm getting at here is you may have a bad alternator, it's just intermittent, and for whatever reason this shop didn't identify it probably because whatever it is, it's intermittent. I will always recommend to people get the OEM new parts, that way it's got a substantial warrantee, and a lot of shops will warrantee the labor if you use OEM parts. You pay more yes, but piece of mind is there.
I can't offer you more then speculation, I wish you luck getting this identified and resolved.
What I'm getting at here is you may have a bad alternator, it's just intermittent, and for whatever reason this shop didn't identify it probably because whatever it is, it's intermittent. I will always recommend to people get the OEM new parts, that way it's got a substantial warrantee, and a lot of shops will warrantee the labor if you use OEM parts. You pay more yes, but piece of mind is there.
I can't offer you more then speculation, I wish you luck getting this identified and resolved.
11-15-2018, 12:13 PM
#9
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I don't know how they tested the alternator and battery and said it was fine with all the electrical systems not working??? Did I miss something? It really does sound like a bad alternator or maybe a bad electrical connection around the battery. If they are sure the battery and alternator are fine (and I am not but my and MadMax's recommendation is cheap) remove the connectors from the battery and clean them and the posts well. Check the fuses while you are at it. I am pretty sure they are ok, but once more, it is a cheap thing to check. If it is the alternator, expect to pay around $1100-1400. (Mainly labor...you have to remove the AC system to replace it) I certainly hope for a bad connection, but you may find you have a significant bill heading your way.
11-15-2018, 05:35 PM
#10
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UPDATE - My coolant and brake fluid were both low so I got some, filled them both up to the MAX line and ALL THE LIGHTS on the dash turned off!! The VDC and slide (or whatever it’s called) lights are off!! I haven’t been brave enough to drive it anywhere yet. I’m still worried about what’s draining my brand new battery. That’s obviously electrical. Anymore ideas from anyone? You all have been a HUGE help for a mom of 3 with the husband working too far away to come and fix it!!
11-15-2018, 05:39 PM
#11
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I don't know how they tested the alternator and battery and said it was fine with all the electrical systems not working??? Did I miss something? It really does sound like a bad alternator or maybe a bad electrical connection around the battery. If they are sure the battery and alternator are fine (and I am not but my and MadMax's recommendation is cheap) remove the connectors from the battery and clean them and the posts well. Check the fuses while you are at it. I am pretty sure they are ok, but once more, it is a cheap thing to check. If it is the alternator, expect to pay around $1100-1400. (Mainly labor...you have to remove the AC system to replace it) I certainly hope for a bad connection, but you may find you have a significant bill heading your way.
After my stepdad left a charger on the battery all day, it fully charged and cranked fine. I was able to drive it to the shop and back home just fine. They also told me that since the check engine light isn’t on, it wouldn’t show an error code for them to know what’s causing the problem.
11-15-2018, 05:42 PM
#12
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I just went out and cranked it again and it started up with no trouble at all. I’m wondering now how I can figure out where the electrical problem is. I don’t want to pay for a new alternator if it’s just a loose wire somewhere. My husband put the new battery in a few days ago himself so I know those connections and terminals are clean and tight. It doesn’t have anything to do with the battery. Just the alternator getting the charge to the battery
11-16-2018, 08:20 AM
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I just went out and cranked it again and it started up with no trouble at all. I’m wondering now how I can figure out where the electrical problem is. I don’t want to pay for a new alternator if it’s just a loose wire somewhere. My husband put the new battery in a few days ago himself so I know those connections and terminals are clean and tight. It doesn’t have anything to do with the battery. Just the alternator getting the charge to the battery
It is hard for us to pinpoint remotely where the exact issue is not being there, but hopefully, these items will get us closer to helping determine where the issue lies.
When my alternator went out on my 09, it never threw any codes either...just very erratic...even to the point where I could start it but not drive it (it would not move in gear)
11-16-2018, 05:20 PM
#14
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Well.... it died again tonight. It’s run perfectly fine since I topped off the coolant and brake fluid. It’s been cranking right up with no trouble, running like totally normal but tonight, after I filled it up with gas and picked up a movie for my 7 year old, we were sitting at Sonic trying to decide what to order and it starts stuttering. Then the radio lights turn off. Then the lights on the dash all turn off. It starts stuttering even harder, basically shaking, then dies. I tried to crank it back up and nothing but clicking from a dead battery. I turned all the lights off, headlights and everything and just let it sit while we waited on the food. After a couple of minutes, the food came and it cranked right back up. I had my 7 year old, 2 year old and 7 month old with me so I’m not even gonna lie. I turned my flashers on and HAULED ***, putting it in neutral every now and then and revving it up getting the RPMs up pretty high to keep it from dying again. I was not about to be stranded on the side of the road in freeing temps with all my kids.
11-17-2018, 08:14 PM
#16
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The first thing I would try would be to recheck the battery cable connections. They have to be TIGHT, and I mean TIGHT. Remove and verify that they are clean and reconnect them and tighten the $hit out of them. Loose connections can cause multiple problems that seem unrelated to the battery.
Good luck and let us know what the solution was.
Good luck and let us know what the solution was.
11-18-2018, 04:38 AM
#17
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Sometimes the OEM battery cable terminals start deteriorating but in a way that is very hard to tell. Often times these are basically a copper strap rather than a big heavy lead terminal that most are used to. And at the crimp where the cable wire joins the terminal corrosion can take place and you get a spotty connection.
A simple test you can and should do to see if you have an unusually heavy drain on the battery, like a short circuit somewhere, is to remove the positive terminal from the battery, and then SLOWLY bring it up to touch the battery post. You should see a small blue spark arc to the terminal JUST as you touch it. IF you get a large or "fat" spark and it jumps from a greater distance, you have something going on with a short, and the only real way to test that is to start pulling fuses and doing the forementioned process over and over.
You also need to have ALL the connections checked over thoroughly that were removed for the alternator installation you mention had been done. Often times a ground or hot wire just isn't solidly connected.
My thoughts are with you, trying to resolve this on your own and with limited funds, young children, etc. We've all been there and definitely understand your predicament.
A simple test you can and should do to see if you have an unusually heavy drain on the battery, like a short circuit somewhere, is to remove the positive terminal from the battery, and then SLOWLY bring it up to touch the battery post. You should see a small blue spark arc to the terminal JUST as you touch it. IF you get a large or "fat" spark and it jumps from a greater distance, you have something going on with a short, and the only real way to test that is to start pulling fuses and doing the forementioned process over and over.
You also need to have ALL the connections checked over thoroughly that were removed for the alternator installation you mention had been done. Often times a ground or hot wire just isn't solidly connected.
My thoughts are with you, trying to resolve this on your own and with limited funds, young children, etc. We've all been there and definitely understand your predicament.
11-18-2018, 12:27 PM
#18
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I took both battery terminals off yesterday completely disconnecting it while the car was running and the car never even stuttered so my husband said that the problem can’t be the alternator since it kept the car running on it’s own. I tightened the battery terminals as tight as they would go when I put them back on. It’s still not having any trouble cranking but I’m not brave enough to go anywhere in it yet.
11-18-2018, 08:57 PM
#19
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Hope you didn't fry something by running the car without the battery. The alternator produces 14+ volts that are very spikey. The battery takes all that spikey electricity and distributes it as a smooth steady 12 volts to all the systems in the car that are rated for 12 volts. By removing that battery you subjected every fuse, relay, selonoid and electrical device to voltage they were not designed for.
11-19-2018, 08:32 AM
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Hope you didn't fry something by running the car without the battery. The alternator produces 14+ volts that are very spikey. The battery takes all that spikey electricity and distributes it as a smooth steady 12 volts to all the systems in the car that are rated for 12 volts. By removing that battery you subjected every fuse, relay, selonoid and electrical device to voltage they were not designed for.
No. I disconnected it just long enough to see if it would die or keep running. Took them off, watched for a few seconds and put them back on.
11-19-2018, 09:23 AM
#21
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Your battery disconnected while running test is inconclusive. Your problem is so intermittent, that disconnecting the battery for just a few seconds to see if the alternator can run the car only proves that the alternator is working in that moment, but it's not conclusive enough to say the alternator is 100% not your problem. You need a real diagnostic. Stop with the stuff here, take it to a dealership, and get this resolved. 80% of your posts go off in tangents about how you need your car to be reliable, the only way that is going to happen is if you 100% diagnose the problem then correct it. Dealership should be able to stress the alternator out and determine if it is faulty, or find another problem that is causing these symptoms.
11-19-2018, 09:30 AM
#22
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Well.... it died again tonight. It’s run perfectly fine since I topped off the coolant and brake fluid. It’s been cranking right up with no trouble, running like totally normal but tonight, after I filled it up with gas and picked up a movie for my 7 year old, we were sitting at Sonic trying to decide what to order and it starts stuttering. Then the radio lights turn off. Then the lights on the dash all turn off. It starts stuttering even harder, basically shaking, then dies. I tried to crank it back up and nothing but clicking from a dead battery. I turned all the lights off, headlights and everything and just let it sit while we waited on the food. After a couple of minutes, the food came and it cranked right back up. I had my 7 year old, 2 year old and 7 month old with me so I’m not even gonna lie. I turned my flashers on and HAULED ***, putting it in neutral every now and then and revving it up getting the RPMs up pretty high to keep it from dying again. I was not about to be stranded on the side of the road in freeing temps with all my kids.
11-19-2018, 02:43 PM
#23
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Nothing was damaged when I disconnected the battery. Thank you all for the suggestions. My apologies for going on rants about needing a reliable vehicle and obviously wasting your time. Just trying to save money and time by figuring it out and fixing myself. I took it to professionals earlier today so they can fix it.
11-21-2018, 04:05 AM
#24
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No time wasted, we're all here to help. It just seems you're problem is much more serious that it needs to be addressed at a shop. That said, once you find out what the problem was, I'd love to hear the solution. The community here could benefit from the findings.
08-27-2023, 02:45 PM
#29
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Update please
4 days ago, I picked my daughter up from her dad and as we left the gas station, got onto the highway and began to accelerate, my 2010 Nissan Maxima just stopped going completely. The car didn’t shut off, it made no sounds to indicate that there was a problem or anything. I pulled into a gas station right beside us, put it in park and back into drive and tried to go again. It wouldn’t do more than maybe 5 MPH. The car never turned off or anything. It just wouldn’t go any faster than a slow roll. My husband came and picked us up and bought and new battery and replaced it. It’s been acting fine ever since then but yesterday as I was getting my 3 girls ready for school and daycare, I came outside and cranked the car and turned the heater on like I do every morning. I went back inside, finished getting everyone ready, got them all loaded into the car and all the lights on the dash were off. Radio, clock, everything. I turned the car off and tried to crank it again and it acted as if the brand new battery was dead. My husband is in another state working so my stepdad came and picked us up and got us all to where we need to be. He came back to my house and put a charger on my battery and today my car has been doing fine but something is definitely wrong. The alternator was replaced in January. We took it to a shop this morning and they said the battery and alternator are totally fine. The only lights that have been coming on on the dash are my VDC and parking brake light. The VDC light never turns off but the parking brake light comes and goes. Can someone please tell me what the issue is? The shop we took it to said they can’t tell us what the problem is without the check engine light on but it has never turned on.
Nothing was damaged when I disconnected the battery. Thank you all for the suggestions. My apologies for going on rants about needing a reliable vehicle and obviously wasting your time. Just trying to save money and time by figuring it out and fixing myself. I took it to professionals earlier today so they can fix it.
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