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Not cranking after serpentine belt failure & replacement

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Not cranking after serpentine belt failure & replacement

Old 03-12-2019, 12:27 PM
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Not cranking after serpentine belt failure & replacement

Hello everyone,

My wifes 2010 maxima had the serpentine belt completely let go and the car died instantly. I removed and replacement broken belt. I attempted to start the car, however the engine was NOT trying to crank whatsoever. Also the radiator fans come on immediately when ignition is ON.

any ideas? much appreciated, thanks.
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Old 03-12-2019, 01:10 PM
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I am going to say that your battery is low from running whilst the belt was off. Try jumping or charging your battery and see if that helps and let us know.
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Old 03-12-2019, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by LtLeary View Post
I am going to say that your battery is low from running whilst the belt was off. Try jumping or charging your battery and see if that helps and let us know.
hey thanks for the response. The car was idling in driveway, belt started slapping and then immediately died. Although battery power did remain on when the engine died. Ill give it a jump and see if that helps, but it does seem to have proper voltage. ill take a quick voltage reading also. ill be back lol
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Old 03-12-2019, 01:41 PM
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Took voltage reading with multimeter. 12.6 VDC. Hooked up jumpers for the hell of it. Car still wonít crank. Also, Radiator fans come on immediately when trying to start car.
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:03 PM
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Are you sure you did not hit any connector, plug or any other electro thingy?
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mahanddeem View Post
Are you sure you did not hit any connector, plug or any other electro thingy?
I did not hit anything. However more than likely the shredded belt did. What electrical connections should I be looking out for in that area ?
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Old 03-12-2019, 03:00 PM
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Well on that side of the engine you have alternator and O2 sensors so unless something surged...stupid question time...did you check the fuses inside and out? I am a bit stumped. But there are a lot of guys more in touch with that side of the car than I. Would love to hear what it was.
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Old 03-12-2019, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LtLeary View Post
Well on that side of the engine you have alternator and O2 sensors so unless something surged...stupid question time...did you check the fuses inside and out? I am a bit stumped. But there are a lot of guys more in touch with that side of the car than I. Would love to hear what it was.
ok thanks for the info. I did not check the fuses. Tomorrow I will go back in & troubleshoot. Free Time was very limited for me today. One of my coworkers told me the starter mightíve went. But that would be one in a million chance that starter does at same time the belt shreds.. I apologize if my knowledge of Nissans is limited. I am a Subaru guy, from STi, Legacy & forester, so most of my knowledge is within the 2.5L flat four motors.
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Old 03-12-2019, 05:33 PM
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Isn't that a sensor of some type directly below the crank pulley?
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Old 03-12-2019, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jevery View Post


Isn't that a sensor of some type directly below the crank pulley?
yea, can anyone tell me what sensor that is? Directly below crank pulley?
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Old 03-12-2019, 05:44 PM
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I tried to figure it out online and failed. Crank position sensor and oil pressure sensor appear not to be in that area on these engines. And if someone knows can they also tell me why under my name it says "Just Registered" when I joined about six years ago?

Last edited by jevery; 03-12-2019 at 05:48 PM. Reason: Additional info needed
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by soares View Post
yea, can anyone tell me what sensor that is? Directly below crank pulley?
It is your oil pressure switch. Check for codes. If the belt flapped around much, the sensor leads on the front of the motor that could have been severed are: both bank EVT harnesses and IVT harnesses (one of each for each bank), alternator harness, oil pressure switch harness, AC compressor harness. I'm not familiar with 7th gen IPDM, but I'm pretty sure that box is also on the frame rail on that side. I would not think a shredded belt would be able to reach any of that though.

Check for codes first, that may be the easiest place to start. You will get codes for any of the above mentioned if they are severed. You didn't mention any lights on your dash post incident. Also, please define "let go". The car would not have died instantly if the belt were severed. You mentioned that you removed the old belt, leading me to believe the old drive belt, although limited, was still functional. Was the old belt intact and doing it's job?

Last edited by User1; 03-12-2019 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 03-13-2019, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
It is your oil pressure switch. Check for codes. If the belt flapped around much, the sensor leads on the front of the motor that could have been severed are: both bank EVT harnesses and IVT harnesses (one of each for each bank), alternator harness, oil pressure switch harness, AC compressor harness. I'm not familiar with 7th gen IPDM, but I'm pretty sure that box is also on the frame rail on that side. I would not think a shredded belt would be able to reach any of that though.

Check for codes first, that may be the easiest place to start. You will get codes for any of the above mentioned if they are severed. You didn't mention any lights on your dash post incident. Also, please define "let go". The car would not have died instantly if the belt were severed. You mentioned that you removed the old belt, leading me to believe the old drive belt, although limited, was still functional. Was the old belt intact and doing it's job?
i will go purchase an obd2 scanner and check for any codes. The belt appeared to have slipped halfway off crank & power steering pulleys, and chewed up to about half its original width. So yes it was still intact but severely misaligned & chewed.

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Old 03-13-2019, 08:18 AM
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Upon further research, Ive came across alot of complaints about the brake light switch failing on many nissan models. Symptoms seem to be identical. Dash will light up, radio comes on, everything powered up.. but engine will not crank and brake pedal is hard to depress. I've bought a replacement switch, waiting on delivery from amazon.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by soares View Post
Upon further research, Ive came across alot of complaints about the brake light switch failing on many nissan models. Symptoms seem to be identical. Dash will light up, radio comes on, everything powered up.. but engine will not crank and brake pedal is hard to depress. I've bought a replacement switch, waiting on delivery from amazon.
Interesting how two unrelated issues both occurred at the same time... Good luck with the switch. Doubtful any of your sensor harnesses were damaged. Let us know the outcome.

Also, save your money with the OBDII scanner. Download "Torque" onto your phone (paid version) and scan with this:

Amazon Amazon

Cheaper setup and with far more functionality than a plain OBDII reader.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:40 PM
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The BAFX adapter is indeed a great one. I have both the Bluetooth and the Wi-Fi ones and they are really great and function properly.
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:18 PM
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Just purchased the BAFX OBD2, along with the app for iPhone. Iíll report back when I receive that and receive and install new brake lamp switch.
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Old 03-14-2019, 05:47 PM
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You have to look at this logically: car was running, belt came halfway apart and car died instantly. Logic dictates that the belt pieces that came off "did something", as User 1 noted, with even a fully broken belt the car will run. What that 'something' is will solve your issue.
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:50 PM
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Steering lock failure?
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LtLeary View Post
Steering lock failure?
I don't believe so. there is no dreaded "key" light coming on. when I press push start the car does go into ACC mode and ON mode. just not cranking whatsoever. also the radiator fans come on immediately. kind of eerks me because the car has been sitting for about two days.

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Old 03-15-2019, 06:39 AM
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Have you checked the tensioner? If that or a pulley seized up it will be frozen stuck and when you try too crank it over nothing will turn because of it being seized. It seems from the way you explained the break in the belt is that it wasn't a complete break makes me believe it may of got a sudden stop in movement and caused it to tear and shred slightly coming off which indicates something seizing up suddenly. I am concerned however at the fans immediately turning on I'm finding that odd it maybe a water pump problem maybe that seized suddenly, You may want to remove the belt and check and see if all your pulleys turn freely ex: water pump, power steering, A/C compressor, alternator, belt tensioner etc. Have you also tried disconnecting your battery for a minute or so to reset the system see if maybe that will help?
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MaximusN8 View Post
Have you checked the tensioner? If that or a pulley seized up it will be frozen stuck and when you try too crank it over nothing will turn because of it being seized. It seems from the way you explained the break in the belt is that it wasn't a complete break makes me believe it may of got a sudden stop in movement and caused it to tear and shred slightly coming off which indicates something seizing up suddenly. I am concerned however at the fans immediately turning on I'm finding that odd it maybe a water pump problem maybe that seized suddenly, You may want to remove the belt and check and see if all your pulleys turn freely ex: water pump, power steering, A/C compressor, alternator, belt tensioner etc. Have you also tried disconnecting your battery for a minute or so to reset the system see if maybe that will help?
Its been a busy week with overtime, but Tuesday when I was troubleshooting, IIRC, only the crank pulley was not freely spinning (which is normal) I just received my BAFX OBD2 wifi scanner. So ill check for any codes. Also, I did disconnect the battery, however it was only for ~20 seconds. Tomorrow I should have few hours of free time to further troubleshoot.
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Old 03-15-2019, 01:54 PM
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When all else fails consult the FSM

http://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-...e-manuals.html


I would start at page STR-5
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/STR.pdf

Last edited by Nopike; 03-15-2019 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 03-15-2019, 02:17 PM
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First of all check that fusible link 250 Amp going to starter is not blown. See page PG-60.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/PG.pdf

Can you hear the solenoid in the starter being activated when you try to start the car?

Looks like the B terminal at the starter is starter motor voltage. Battery voltage 12VDC should always be present there. The S terminal is power to the starter solenoid. 12VDC should be present there when you press the start button.

BE CAREFUL TAKING READINGS AT THE STARTER AS THE ENGINE MAY START WHEN YOU DON'T EXPECT IT.

Last edited by Nopike; 03-15-2019 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Nopike View Post
First of all check that fusible link 250 Amp going to starter is not blown. See page PG-60. That is a good possibility.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/PG.pdf


Can you hear the solenoid in the starter being activated when you try to start the car?

Looks like the B terminal at the starter is starter motor voltage. Battery voltage 12VDC should always be present there. The S terminal is power to the starter solenoid. 12VDC should be present there when you press the start button.

BE CAREFUL TAKING READINGS AT THE STARTER AS THE ENGINE MAY START WHEN YOU DON'T EXPECT IT.
Thank you Nopike, I'll be looking into this tomorrow morning when i get home from work then ill report back.. I need to get this car running, my wife wants a minivan (and another baby) so i'm looking to trade it in ASAP once its running again.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:42 PM
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you are welcome. There are only a few things that would keep the starter motor from at least cranking. Should not be that hard to fix. I'll check back tomorrow morning to see how you are doing. See if the rest of the electronics such as horn, headlights, radio appear to be working normally. Getting at the starter may not be that easy. So lets try the easy stuff first.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:05 PM
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One of two things is not happening, either you do not have power (12VDC) to the starter motor B terminal. It should measure 12V all the time. Or, more likely, we are not getting power (12VDC) to energize the starter solenoid S terminal. When 12V is applied to the S terminal of the starter it causes the starter to turn.
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Old 03-16-2019, 06:14 AM
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Here is the thing, more than likely you are not getting 12VDC to the S terminal of the starter. If you look at STR-5 diagram both the starter relay and the starter control relay have to be energized to get power to the S terminal. These are controlled by the CPU, BCM and TCM. Unfortunately I have not been able to find a list of possible reasons why those relays would not be energized. Although a blown fuse could do it. So check all your fuses carefully.


Those relays are located in the IPDM E/R (INTELLIGENT POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE ENGINE ROOM) PG-61 http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/PG.pdf

This video gives some good advice.



Last edited by Nopike; 03-16-2019 at 06:36 AM.
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Old 03-16-2019, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by soares View Post
Thank you Nopike, I'll be looking into this tomorrow morning when i get home from work then ill report back.. I need to get this car running, my wife wants a minivan (and another baby) so i'm looking to trade it in ASAP once its running again.
You're going to trade in your man-card along with your Maxima when you go to a minivan, lol! How will you endure the ridicule and laughter behind your back?
Ugh.
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Old 03-16-2019, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Nopike View Post
Here is the thing, more than likely you are not getting 12VDC to the S terminal of the starter. If you look at STR-5 diagram both the starter relay and the starter control relay have to be energized to get power to the S terminal. These are controlled by the CPU, BCM and TCM. Unfortunately I have not been able to find a list of possible reasons why those relays would not be energized.
Those relays are located in the IPDM E/R (INTELLIGENT POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE ENGINE ROOM) PG-61 http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/PG.pdf
Goodmorning, for the last half hour Iíve been checking fuses and the battery. Tuesday the Battery was at 12.6 VDC and now itís at 12.06 VDC. The battery is dead correct? I just donít want to go waste $150+ dollars on a battery if itís not for sure toasted.
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Old 03-16-2019, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TableRocker View Post
You're going to trade in your man-card along with your Maxima when you go to a minivan, lol!
this is my wifeís car. I am a Subaru guy for 14+ years. Currently 2014 Subaru Legacy and 2005 Subaru WRX STi
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Old 03-16-2019, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by soares View Post


Goodmorning, for the last half hour Iíve been checking fuses and the battery. Tuesday the Battery was at 12.6 VDC and now itís at 12.06 VDC. The battery is dead correct? I just donít want to go waste $150+ dollars on a battery if itís not for sure toasted.

Very good possibility that it is dead. How about trying to charge it or jump it?
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Old 03-16-2019, 06:41 AM
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Otherwise get a battery from some place that takes returns. Home depot is good for that.
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Old 03-16-2019, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Nopike View Post
Very good possibility that it is dead. How about trying to charge it or jump it?
i tried to jump it Tuesday, but canít hurt to give it another try
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Old 03-16-2019, 06:56 AM
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Also OBD2 not able to connect to the Maxima. However it instantly connects to the Subaru.
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:42 AM
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Attempt to jump start has failed. Looked at all pulleys, power steering, AC, Alternator, both idlers and tensioner all good.

Brake lamp switch was replaced. Waste of $15. Not the end of the world. My 3 year old son woke up little while ago, wifeís at work until 2 and I work at 4, so my trouble shooting time has quickly come to an end. My weekend is Monday & Tuesday and we are using her parents car for time being.. May just have to bow my head in shame and have it towed to a garage.
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Nopike View Post
Here is the thing, more than likely you are not getting 12VDC to the S terminal of the starter. If you look at STR-5 diagram both the starter relay and the starter control relay have to be energized to get power to the S terminal. These are controlled by the CPU, BCM and TCM. Unfortunately I have not been able to find a list of possible reasons why those relays would not be energized. Although a blown fuse could do it. So check all your fuses carefully.


Those relays are located in the IPDM E/R (INTELLIGENT POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE ENGINE ROOM) PG-61 http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/PG.pdf

This video gives some good advice.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RUhq7sXNBo
Thank you for the info Nopike, i'll continue investigating tomorrow, or most likely monday & tuesday on my days off
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Old 03-16-2019, 03:46 PM
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You are welcome. Check that the rest of the electronics in the car are working properly. Headlights, horn, radio, windows. If the problem is a blown fuse it would probably effect additional circuits and not just the starter. Sometimes a fuse is blown and it is not very obvious.
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:35 AM
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Best that you can do is to make sure that your starter has power and your battery is functioning properly. The vehicles CPU activates the starter relays. You may be able to hear if the starter relay located in the IPDM E/R is being activated. If the CPU is not activating the starter relay it would probably provide a digital trouble code to let us know what has malfunctioned. You probably will need to try and get your OBD2 working.
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Nopike View Post
Best that you can do is to make sure that your starter has power and your battery is functioning properly. The vehicles CPU activates the starter relays. You may be able to hear if the starter relay located in the IPDM E/R is being activated. If the CPU is not activating the starter relay it would probably provide a digital trouble code to let us know what has malfunctioned. You probably will need to try and get your OBD2 working.
Hey Nopike, just wanted to give you an update. Did a little more thorough search of fuses and wiring. Apparently I overlooked a 15amp ENG CONT. fuse. It was blown.. Replaced it, and reset ECU, and car started right up.
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