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In my experience with my old altima I removed those on the dash and it was night and day the sound bouncing off the windshield. But of course each to their own. I also had a Pioneer AVH 8500 that gave more power than what I am sure this head unit does. I just gotta figure out what speakers to go with. This guy at a shop I go through is trying to talk be in to the Hertz brand.
Hertz is definitely a must! I heard a shop car with a complete Hertz upgrade and the sound was so impressive, so clear and powerful that I'm going to do my entire upgrade with them.
Hertz is definitely a must! I heard a shop car with a complete Hertz upgrade and the sound was so impressive, so clear and powerful that I'm going to do my entire upgrade with them.
interesting, I’m actually waiting on the Hertz 163.3 Mille pro 3 way component set. Also putting more sound deadiening material on the doors. Will be taking it all apart this weekend to install them. Thinking of putting the 3” mid right above the 6 1/2 woofer. I will try to document everything as I do it.
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Those Hertz are serious, I checked them out after reading the latest posts here. I wonder if the mids would fit where the factory dash speakers are? I also wonder if those big tweeters would fit in the trim piece that covers the back-side of the rear view mirrors next to the A-pillar (that's where I put the 3/4" tweeters in my Maxima). Those cross overs look huge; it'll be hard to find a good place to hide them, especially on the passenger's side.
Tommie70, since you have that DSP unit, I'd think you'd be able to work with the delays and perhaps some subtle EQ to get really coherent sound where ever you decide to put the drivers.
Those Hertz are serious, I checked them out after reading the latest posts here. I wonder if the mids would fit where the factory dash speakers are? I also wonder if those big tweeters would fit in the trim piece that covers the back-side of the rear view mirrors next to the A-pillar (that's where I put the 3/4" tweeters in my Maxima). Those cross overs look huge; it'll be hard to find a good place to hide them, especially on the passenger's side.
Tommie70, since you have that DSP unit, I'd think you'd be able to work with the delays and perhaps some subtle EQ to get really coherent sound where ever you decide to put the drivers.
Lots of pictures, please, Ricanpapi and Tommie70.
whatever y'all do, DONT buy your speakers from Ebay! I bought 2pr of Hertz HCX 690. One pair was fake, the other has a busted voice coil. And since they've been discontinued, I doubt if the warranty is valid. I ended up putting Rockford Punch Pro 4 8" in the front doors, Rockford top tier tweeters in the dash, and the Hertz in back for the time being until I can replace them(probably with Rockford 3 way). Connected them all to a Hertz 1160 amp and a Rockford DSR1, but will probably need either another amp or a larger one to push all the added wattage, cuz the speakers start distorting 3/4 in. Also, I'm adding a Rockford powered 8" sub box to put under my seat.
Those Hertz are serious, I checked them out after reading the latest posts here. I wonder if the mids would fit where the factory dash speakers are? I also wonder if those big tweeters would fit in the trim piece that covers the back-side of the rear view mirrors next to the A-pillar (that's where I put the 3/4" tweeters in my Maxima). Those cross overs look huge; it'll be hard to find a good place to hide them, especially on the passenger's side.
Tommie70, since you have that DSP unit, I'd think you'd be able to work with the delays and perhaps some subtle EQ to get really coherent sound where ever you decide to put the drivers.
Lots of pictures, please, Ricanpapi and Tommie70.
i thought about putting the 3” in the dash, but the DSP would be changing the timing of the whole set, theres not a way for me to change the timing on just the 3” speakers. I think I have a plan, we’ll see.........I’m waiting for it to warm up a little before I go out there and start ripping everything out
So..... I'm not 100% done, nor am I 100% happy with the way some of it turned out, but It sounds pretty damn good. I replaced the Focal 2 way systems with the Hertz 3 Way up front, and Infinity Perfect 900 6X9 2 way components in the rear. also replaced the Boston Acoustics subwoofer with a Rockford Fosgate Punch P3 Sub.
I lined the Doors inside and out, rear deck top and bottom, and the rear seat area with sound deadening mat. I used about 80 Sq Ft of the matting to do the job. I was able to reach most of the inside of the doors through the speaker openings. if you remove the black plastic speaker stand-off, you can get you arm in there pretty far. I had to be careful in some spots not to block anything important. They say that you don't have to cover every square inch, that its the mass that helps deaden the sound.
i thought about putting the 3” in the dash, but the DSP would be changing the timing of the whole set, theres not a way for me to change the timing on just the 3” speakers. I think I have a plan, we’ll see.........I’m waiting for it to warm up a little before I go out there and start ripping everything out
Understood. You'd really need separate amp channels for everything to do it right. That would be lots of amplification (six channels just for your front speakers).
Can you post some pictures of how you got the factory "grilles" in the dash off? I simply disconnected the factory dash speakers, but was never able to get the grilles off: I couldn't get them to move enough to come free before they hit the wind shield glass.
Are those the Hertz tweeters in the trim piece at the bottom of the A-pillar (that covers the back of the rear view mirror)? I didn't think such a big driver would fit in that little trim piece. My JL Audio 3/4" tweeters seemed like a tight fit, I wasn't confident even a 1" tweeter would fit there.
What sound deadening mat did you use? Is that DynaMat extreme?
Where did you mount the Hertz crossovers? Oh, yeah, would love to see some photos of your car when everything is put back together again. I know all the details of your install will be covered up, but it would be good to see how everything looks. Did you change anything in the trunk (more amp channels)?
Where did you mount the Hertz crossovers? Oh, yeah, would love to see some photos of your car when everything is put back together again. I know all the details of your install will be covered up, but it would be good to see how everything looks. Did you change anything in the trunk (more amp channels)?
I will be getting the crossovers mounted tomorrow, everything will be in the trunk. I will get pictures when I’m done. I used Noico mat from Amazon. Much cheaper than Dynamat and works great!
I will be getting the crossovers mounted tomorrow, everything will be in the trunk. I will get pictures when I’m done. I used Noico mat from Amazon. Much cheaper than Dynamat and works great!
Thanks for that information. I will check Noico out. I've always mounted passive crossovers in the doors, too much wire to run back up to the front if the crossovers are in the trunk. I hope it goes well in your install. I'm about out of "hidden room" in my trunk with the JL Audio DSP units (FiX and TwK). I just saw on the JL Audio site the have new amplifiers that are similar to the Audison units: integral DSP. They have an 8-channel with DSP that is smaller than what my two 4-channel amps require. Would have been about the same price overall. Where was that before I started buying hardware last year?
Thanks for that information. I will check Noico out. I've always mounted passive crossovers in the doors, too much wire to run back up to the front if the crossovers are in the trunk. I hope it goes well in your install. I'm about out of "hidden room" in my trunk with the JL Audio DSP units (FiX and TwK). I just saw on the JL Audio site the have new amplifiers that are similar to the Audison units: integral DSP. They have an 8-channel with DSP that is smaller than what my two 4-channel amps require. Would have been about the same price overall. Where was that before I started buying hardware last year?
I ran individual wires because I figured one day I would have individual amp channels for each driver. Plus the crossovers I'm using have some adjustments on them, and I am really OCD with this stuff. I would be worried about mounting them in the doors and no way of adjusting them. (even though I may never touch the settings again!) I didn't get to mount the crossovers the way I would like so I just mounted them quick and dirty to the underside of the rear deck. when the weather warms a little, I will pull the truck apart and find a spot for everything to live. I even ordered a new trunk finisher to replace the one I cut up. At that point I'm probably going to take the door panels off again so I can put some foam blocks between the plastic parts. I still get a little buzzing coming from the door panels. I also want to reposition the tweeters. you can't see it in this picture, but they kind of hang off the edge of the trim piece they are mounted to. Sorry I'm not documenting this to good. I'll try to get better pictures of everything the next time I work on it.
That's exactly what I'm doing: one amp channel per speaker. Now that I have DSP, I wanted to experiment with digital crossovers, delays for coherency and EQ. I do not plan to install a 3-way system in the front, but do want to have the rear door speakers, so I need eight channels for now.
I'm with you: if there is a ****, I need to be able to turn it, even if I never will. I like the JL Audio DSP units, all I need is a USB cable to connect them to my computer.
I also have a big sheet of foam: I get rattles from the rear deck. When I replace my rear speakers with actual sub-woofer drivers I'll fit a piece of foam between the rear deck and the plastic finisher panel.
I'm impressed you fit those big 1-1/8" Hertz tweeters in those little panels. I was worried that my 3/4" tweeters would barely fit. I guess I don't have to be so worried about tweeter size when it's time to replace my front speakers.
That's exactly what I'm doing: one amp channel per speaker. Now that I have DSP, I wanted to experiment with digital crossovers, delays for coherency and EQ. I do not plan to install a 3-way system in the front, but do want to have the rear door speakers, so I need eight channels for now.
I'm with you: if there is a ****, I need to be able to turn it, even if I never will. I like the JL Audio DSP units, all I need is a USB cable to connect them to my computer.
I also have a big sheet of foam: I get rattles from the rear deck. When I replace my rear speakers with actual sub-woofer drivers I'll fit a piece of foam between the rear deck and the plastic finisher panel.
I'm impressed you fit those big 1-1/8" Hertz tweeters in those little panels. I was worried that my 3/4" tweeters would barely fit. I guess I don't have to be so worried about tweeter size when it's time to replace my front speakers.
I can say with confidence that most tweeters will fit in that location. I cut the holes too low and too close to the rounded edge, which looked ok with the Focal tweeters, but the Hertz tweeters need a little open space around them. Have you decided how much wattage you are sending to each driver? I really wanted to do that but I was worried I wouldn’t have the right balance of power to each.
I have two Rockford Fosgate Punch 400 amplifiers, so eight channels at 50W each. I don't listen at ear bleeding levels, so that has been plenty of power for me, even for the woofers. With Class-D amplifiers getting more and more common, power shouldn't be a problem any more. The new JL Audio amps that have on-board DSP are 100W/ channel minimum, I think. Tweeters and midrange drivers need much less power than woofers. What I'd really like to see, but never will, is a really good quality 10W or 25W amp for small drivers.
I should also say that there isn't any reason to "balance" the amount of power you have for each driver. The driver will only pull what it needs to respond to the signal sent to its amplifier channel. What you need ensure is that you have enough power for each driver (too much power available isn't a problem). So 100W for your mids and tweeters should be plenty, but you might want to have more for your woofers. After that, as you know, DSP for balance, delays, and EQ is VERY useful and powerful for tuning your sound.
Tommie70, I know you're not finished, but how do your new Hertz 3-ways sound?
I made some progress wiring for eight channels today. I'll finish tomorrow. Posts tonight and tomorrow on the thread about my car.
um....amazing! The speakers are great, but I think the sound deadening really made a difference. While working in the trunk I decided to do that area with the noico mat as well. I still have to work on it tomorrow, but I’ll provide pics when it’s done. It’s taking a lot longer that I wanted. I kept saying to myself, “do you want it done right away? Or do you want it done right?”
Glad you like those new Hertz. The set you bought is more than I can afford right now. I'd really like to get a set of JL Audio C5 components. That would be a direct upgrade to the Evolutions I have now. Those drivers are pretty old, but they still sound pretty good.
You put way more mat in your trunk than I had planned on using when it's time to do my car. I had figured on both sides of the rear deck and that's it. Do you think doing the rear fender wells made a difference? I had thought the rear seat would absorb most of the noise coming from the trunk. That said, I agree with you: gotta do all four doors, inside and out. I may also get some to do the floor, eventually. Taking out the seats and center console is a lot of work.
What Noico mat did you use, the 50 mil or the 80 mil?
I used the 80 mil, and must admit, it was probably overkill to do the amount in the trunk that I did. I figured it couldn’t hurt? Right? There’s definitely a difference on the outer quarter panel when you knock on it, theres no resonance. Even if it doesn’t make a difference in the sound inside, maybe it will keep the rattling at bay on the outside.
Well, this is the install I wanted to do two years ago, but rushed and settled. I wound up putting the DSP and crossovers behind the trunk finishers, which required me to buy a new left finisher to replace the one I cut up. I also had two days of rewiring and I went against what I said earlier about hiding the crossovers. But after staring at the trunk for hours try to come up with a clean way to mount them, I concluded this was the best way. The amp is mounted on the underside of the rear deck, and everything else is hidden.
Tommie70, that is a good looking install. Those Infinity 6x9s are huge, and so are their crossovers! You also ran impressive wire to them. Did you also mount the tweeters for the Infinities? I wish my amp board was as small as yours, it would have saved me hours and hours, as well as some head-room in the trunk. I guess there is one of the big reasons behind the class-D amplifiers. Maybe someday I'll change out my existing amps. But not today. I am really happy to be done with wiring.
How did you mount your gear, self-tapping metal screws?
Hey everyone, This weekend I'll be tackling a major overhaul of my SV's sound system. I'm going to document the entire install and posing it to this thread.
I'm disconnecting the factory Speakers and running heavier wire from the factory Head unit to the DSP.
This should be a good build to post as I haven't seen many pictures of the 8th Gen taken apart.
I'm not sure if I'll be posting the progress incrementally or if I'll do it all in one shot but come hell or high water, its getting done this weekend!!
Hey brother, did you use line in converter? If so how did you wire it in? Looking to throw my fosgate P3 12's and my Memphis amp in... thank you
Sorry, I know, this has been dead for a while, but to anyone that's upgraded their audio system, how has the quality of calling through the car system held up, specifically how it sounds to the far-end caller? I know there are algorithms in place to help reduce echo and noise, and I'm curious if those are dynamic enough to deal with retuning/running through a DSP, or if doing so has a negative effect on call quality. Thanks for any insight!
I don't get any complaints from anyone I talk to over Bluetooth in my car. I am surprised how loudly I have to speak, and how much I have to turn up the volume of the stereo (compared to when I'm playing music) though.
I know this is an older post but have any of you had to install a high output alternator for your audio system? I'm thinking about adding a 3rd subwoofer and if I did, I'm almost certain I would have to go with a high output alternator....
11-04-2018, 10:36 AM
