Breaking in new pads/rotors
10-31-2007, 06:40 PM
#1
Breaking in new pads/rotors
mods i didnt see this in the stickies, so is there a specific LEGAL procedure to brakes in new rotors and pads?
Just got some OEM brembo's and Axxis M/M pads from the group buy, should i bleed the breaks when i change the pads or is that necessary?
Thanks for the help, im a n00b when it comes to brakes.
Alex
Just got some OEM brembo's and Axxis M/M pads from the group buy, should i bleed the breaks when i change the pads or is that necessary?
Thanks for the help, im a n00b when it comes to brakes.
Alex
Last edited by Maximahappy22; 11-01-2007 at 04:03 PM.
10-31-2007, 06:52 PM
#2
11-01-2007, 05:57 AM
#4
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
Talk about suspension geometry, advanced handling/chassis setup, custom brakes, etc. NOT your basic brake pads and "best drop" Information.
Talk about suspension geometry, advanced handling/chassis setup, custom brakes, etc. NOT your basic brake pads and "best drop" Information.
Hmmmmm.
I guess the Axxis MM pads didn't come with break in instructions in the box? :shrug:
11-01-2007, 10:00 AM
#5
11-01-2007, 11:23 AM
#6
Sarcasm my friend, sarcasm...
Last edited by Maximahappy22; 11-01-2007 at 04:02 PM.
11-01-2007, 12:05 PM
#8
right out of the stickies......
11-01-2007, 12:22 PM
#9
11-01-2007, 01:41 PM
#10
Diff brake hardware companies require diff break-ins. For example:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
Personally, I like Hawk's method, but requires huuuuuge amounts of open road
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/burnish.php
Jae
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
Personally, I like Hawk's method, but requires huuuuuge amounts of open road
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/burnish.php
Jae
11-01-2007, 04:03 PM
#11
11-10-2007, 06:34 AM
#13
I followed this procedure after switching to HawkHPS & Frozen Rotors....it did WAY more harm than good.
Most mechs will tell you to simply drive your car normally, as you always do. I followed this last time I had my rotors turned, and it worked just fine! --I even sanded the face of ALL of my pads to ensure they weren't glazed or uneven!--
I think Hawk's recommendation is good too -- not too much, but just enough.
Stoptech's site is more of a RACING methodology for VERY hard pads.
You've been warned.
gr
11-10-2007, 07:54 AM
#15
I did this ON THE HIGHWAY and at speed. (spare me the safety comments -- I KNOW how to drive)
I LITERALLY got the pads to SMOKE, and it was actually QUITE entertaining!!
...amazing how those Hawk pads resist FADE!
However -- the simple truth is, that I glazed the pads, and did nothing more than repeat the dreaded "material transfer" scenario to my BRAND NEW FROZEN ROTORS, and they were "vibrating" in less than 5k miles.
The procedure was very by the numbers and controlled -- literally, by the book according to Stoptech's website -- with more than an HOUR in between cooling cycles.
It was total overkill for the setup.
Others' may have different outcomes.....but that's what happened to me.
like I said -- the last time I turned the rotors (I have two sets) I didn't do anything NEARLY as dramatic, and the current set is still going strong past 10k miles. I've NEVER made it that long without "warpage" before.
Rotors are ALL the same....well, as long as they contain the same amount of IRON. Some don't.
Don't waste your money on Frozen rotors -- TOTAL eyewash in thwarting PAD MATERIAL TRANSFER.
THe benefit of molecular hardening IS viable in racing and heavy-duty applications where ACTUAL WARPAGE and metal fatigue will cause the rotor to fail....NOT in daily-driving.
Daily driving rotor issues are all due to ONE ISSUE: pad material transfer.
--but I'm 100% believer in Hawk HPS pads!!
gr
I LITERALLY got the pads to SMOKE, and it was actually QUITE entertaining!!
...amazing how those Hawk pads resist FADE!
However -- the simple truth is, that I glazed the pads, and did nothing more than repeat the dreaded "material transfer" scenario to my BRAND NEW FROZEN ROTORS, and they were "vibrating" in less than 5k miles.
The procedure was very by the numbers and controlled -- literally, by the book according to Stoptech's website -- with more than an HOUR in between cooling cycles.
It was total overkill for the setup.
Others' may have different outcomes.....but that's what happened to me.
like I said -- the last time I turned the rotors (I have two sets) I didn't do anything NEARLY as dramatic, and the current set is still going strong past 10k miles. I've NEVER made it that long without "warpage" before.
Rotors are ALL the same....well, as long as they contain the same amount of IRON. Some don't.
Don't waste your money on Frozen rotors -- TOTAL eyewash in thwarting PAD MATERIAL TRANSFER.
THe benefit of molecular hardening IS viable in racing and heavy-duty applications where ACTUAL WARPAGE and metal fatigue will cause the rotor to fail....NOT in daily-driving.
Daily driving rotor issues are all due to ONE ISSUE: pad material transfer.
--but I'm 100% believer in Hawk HPS pads!!
gr
Last edited by ghostrider17; 11-10-2007 at 08:01 AM.
11-11-2007, 12:11 PM
#17
11-11-2007, 02:45 PM
#18
No. I didn't say that it did....I merely stated that I waited an adequate amount of time (1hr) between cooling cycles JUST to be certain the rotors were completely cool. 
gr
gr
Last edited by ghostrider17; 11-11-2007 at 02:48 PM.
11-12-2007, 11:45 AM
#19
Originally Posted by StopTech
Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Jae
Last edited by ThurzNite; 11-12-2007 at 11:47 AM.
11-12-2007, 11:52 AM
#20
I'm not looking at their website, and I did this over two years ago -- so cut me some slack. 
I did the consecutive / progressive stops as prescribed on Stoptech's website....what I meant in regards to the cooling process, was that I allowed the brakes plenty of time to cool (more than one hour) AFTER I had completed the back-to-back stops BEFORE coming to a stop again, or even touching the pads to the rotors. I was on the highway.
Perhaps my wording WAS misleading....
Hey - if you want to go do what stoptech tells you --BE MY GUEST!
All I'm saying, is that I followed their instructions PERFECTLY, and I got a bad result.
IMHO, this process is too aggressive for normal street use and with street compound pads. I'm only trying to share my experience with those that are interested, and to save them the headache.
gr
I did the consecutive / progressive stops as prescribed on Stoptech's website....what I meant in regards to the cooling process, was that I allowed the brakes plenty of time to cool (more than one hour) AFTER I had completed the back-to-back stops BEFORE coming to a stop again, or even touching the pads to the rotors. I was on the highway.
Perhaps my wording WAS misleading....
Hey - if you want to go do what stoptech tells you --BE MY GUEST!
All I'm saying, is that I followed their instructions PERFECTLY, and I got a bad result.
IMHO, this process is too aggressive for normal street use and with street compound pads. I'm only trying to share my experience with those that are interested, and to save them the headache.
gr
11-13-2007, 08:33 PM
#23
take those deposited rotors and throw a set of Hawk Black or Blue on them for about 20 miles of normal street driving. The transfer and vibrations will be gone.. just be sure to swap back to your street pads afterward. 
03-04-2008, 12:39 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
I just did a brake job and I had the OEM brake pads and rotors. The only thing I did was I just changed the pads and the intresting thing Is that Nissan Is using the Hitachi pads Is proballay a Nissan pad,but I changed It and went out to test the car and the car felt like It was slow and the pads and the calipers were sticking to the rotors and the acceleration was slow and the pads were smoking and I was proballay doing the (green effect).
I thought my cailpers were bad and they were needed to be looked at again and this time I took it apart than I soaked It in the bucket of brake fluid and now the caliper Is better than before and I put everything back together and I made sure everything Is perfect the pads are seated well and I went out to drive the car again this time the pads smoked up one side smoked up more than the other one did. I have did the pad brake in and I am thinking that the car Is back to normal as of The brake stoping goes and the acceleration and the viberation and the slowness has lessen a bite. The side that smoked up more feels hot and the other side feels a warm.
QUESTION Is this normal?
I thought my cailpers were bad and they were needed to be looked at again and this time I took it apart than I soaked It in the bucket of brake fluid and now the caliper Is better than before and I put everything back together and I made sure everything Is perfect the pads are seated well and I went out to drive the car again this time the pads smoked up one side smoked up more than the other one did. I have did the pad brake in and I am thinking that the car Is back to normal as of The brake stoping goes and the acceleration and the viberation and the slowness has lessen a bite. The side that smoked up more feels hot and the other side feels a warm.
QUESTION Is this normal?
03-04-2008, 05:37 AM
#25
I just did a brake job and I had the OEM brake pads and rotors. The only thing I did was I just changed the pads and the intresting thing Is that Nissan Is using the Hitachi pads Is proballay a Nissan pad,but I changed It and went out to test the car and the car felt like It was slow and the pads and the calipers were sticking to the rotors and the acceleration was slow and the pads were smoking and I was proballay doing the (green effect).
I thought my cailpers were bad and they were needed to be looked at again and this time I took it apart than I soaked It in the bucket of brake fluid and now the caliper Is better than before and I put everything back together and I made sure everything Is perfect the pads are seated well and I went out to drive the car again this time the pads smoked up one side smoked up more than the other one did. I have did the pad brake in and I am thinking that the car Is back to normal as of The brake stoping goes and the acceleration and the viberation and the slowness has lessen a bite. The side that smoked up more feels hot and the other side feels a warm.
QUESTION Is this normal?
I thought my cailpers were bad and they were needed to be looked at again and this time I took it apart than I soaked It in the bucket of brake fluid and now the caliper Is better than before and I put everything back together and I made sure everything Is perfect the pads are seated well and I went out to drive the car again this time the pads smoked up one side smoked up more than the other one did. I have did the pad brake in and I am thinking that the car Is back to normal as of The brake stoping goes and the acceleration and the viberation and the slowness has lessen a bite. The side that smoked up more feels hot and the other side feels a warm.
QUESTION Is this normal?
03-04-2008, 05:42 AM
#26
03-04-2008, 06:25 AM
#27
It's called brake jutter, most people mistake this condition as warped rotors..When it's simply an uneven transfer of brake pad material on the rotor, usually from cheaper quality brake pads. Track quality pads like hawk black/blue will remove the uneven pad deposits from the rotor.
03-04-2008, 08:25 AM
#28
I'd say this is a good guess. You need to take the slider-pins out of the carrier, and the rubber boots and re-lube them.
My second guess would be a sticking piston - but that's a whole bigger problem.
Check the "pins", lube them - and get back to us.
Might want to check your pad surface for glaszing as well.....after all this "smoking" that you are describing.
Anybody know what type of GREASE/LUBRICANT the pins are supposed to take? I took mine apart the other day, and it looks more like Vaseline than Brake/Caliper grease.
gr
My second guess would be a sticking piston - but that's a whole bigger problem.
Check the "pins", lube them - and get back to us.
Might want to check your pad surface for glaszing as well.....after all this "smoking" that you are describing.
Anybody know what type of GREASE/LUBRICANT the pins are supposed to take? I took mine apart the other day, and it looks more like Vaseline than Brake/Caliper grease.
gr
03-04-2008, 08:41 AM
#29
I'd say this is a good guess. You need to take the slider-pins out of the carrier, and the rubber boots and re-lube them.
My second guess would be a sticking piston - but that's a whole bigger problem.
Check the "pins", lube them - and get back to us.
Might want to check your pad surface for glaszing as well.....after all this "smoking" that you are describing.
Anybody know what type of GREASE/LUBRICANT the pins are supposed to take? I took mine apart the other day, and it looks more like Vaseline than Brake/Caliper grease.
gr
My second guess would be a sticking piston - but that's a whole bigger problem.
Check the "pins", lube them - and get back to us.
Might want to check your pad surface for glaszing as well.....after all this "smoking" that you are describing.
Anybody know what type of GREASE/LUBRICANT the pins are supposed to take? I took mine apart the other day, and it looks more like Vaseline than Brake/Caliper grease.
gr
This is available at advanced auto/schuck's
03-04-2008, 04:35 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
I have good news the caliper Is good,but the slider pin was rusted so bad that the mechanics helped me buff It out an regrease It. I was sure It was the pins but I needed some on-line voting (lol). I will keep an eye on the pin here on out. I used the oem grease and It should work. Thanks again.
03-04-2008, 07:28 PM
#32
If all you did was sand the rust off and put it back together, you need to install some new pins. they don't cost much, but they are usually zinc plated to prevent the rust from coming back.
you also need to make sure they're properly greased AND the little rubber boots are in good condition on them and properly seated.
you also need to make sure they're properly greased AND the little rubber boots are in good condition on them and properly seated.
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