Drop + RSB, Good/Bad?
03-31-2008, 03:24 PM
#1
Drop + RSB, Good/Bad?
Basically I recently dropped my ride on Illuminas + S-Techs, and was just wondering if adding a RSB would add any noticable difference? I don't really want to put the thing on if it isn't really going to help much, and rust to all hell 
04-01-2008, 02:21 PM
#7
I have to say there isn't a hard and fast rule about RSBs on lowered Maximas. It depends on the rest of your set-up, your goals, driving style, and driving conditions.
Given that you're only lowered with little other handling mods, you'll feel the difference in steering, whether that change is good or bad, you'll have to determine for yourself because some like the oversteer and tighter rear (no
) and some don't.
I posted a few links to past discussions on this in the Handling Sticky, so look those up and see whether you'd fall in the for vs. against crowd in terms of everything else considered.
Given that you're only lowered with little other handling mods, you'll feel the difference in steering, whether that change is good or bad, you'll have to determine for yourself because some like the oversteer and tighter rear (no
) and some don't. I posted a few links to past discussions on this in the Handling Sticky, so look those up and see whether you'd fall in the for vs. against crowd in terms of everything else considered.
04-01-2008, 07:05 PM
#10
From my understanding..."an" is used before a word that starts with a vowel, no?
Harsh ride with a RSB? 
04-01-2008, 07:25 PM
#11
2) I've never heard of a RSB making the ride more harsh. It was my understanding that the only downside to a RSB was the possibility to create too much oversteer, but I've never heard of any oversteer issues on a maxima. I would expect bushings, on the other hand, to make the ride harsher over bumps. What am I missing?
04-01-2008, 07:31 PM
#12
EDIT: Armon got to it before me and made it alot more simple.
You're right, wrong and confused. lol. The reason he made this post...
Is to show that when saying, "rear sway bar", an "a" needs to be in front of it. (a rear sway bar...)
When it is typed as "RSB", you'll pronounce it, "ARE-ES-BEE". The "R" sound starts with a vowel. There for, the proper way to type/say it is, "an RSB".
Now back on topic.
Originally Posted by soundmike
Actually, he was correct.
A rear sway bar, or
An RSB
A rear sway bar, or
An RSB
When it is typed as "RSB", you'll pronounce it, "ARE-ES-BEE". The "R" sound starts with a vowel. There for, the proper way to type/say it is, "an RSB".
Now back on topic.
Last edited by essential1; 04-01-2008 at 07:33 PM.
04-01-2008, 07:40 PM
#13
y0 yall gremmr naxi needa chill meng. itz da intanet yo i speek harcore m@d tYte jDM zyle if i wan.
Now lets get back on track... I thought the rsb won't make a significant difference in terms of handling after you're lowered?
Now lets get back on track... I thought the rsb won't make a significant difference in terms of handling after you're lowered?
04-01-2008, 08:31 PM
#14
I took my RSB off because it would bind the rear suspension way too much for my liking. Just like what JSutter is saying, over uneven pavements, the entire rear beam and suspension stay stiff (together) and in turn creates a less independent feeling. This, along with the fact that it's below unsprung weight (40lbs) causes an even slower response to your rear end. A good spring/strut combo takes away most of the effect the RSB had on your stock suspension. It's just a poor design for the Maxima, although the only design really, for the rear beam we have.
04-01-2008, 09:45 PM
#15
EDIT: Armon got to it before me and made it alot more simple.
You're right, wrong and confused. lol. The reason he made this post...
Is to show that when saying, "rear sway bar", an "a" needs to be in front of it. (a rear sway bar...)
When it is typed as "RSB", you'll pronounce it, "ARE-ES-BEE". The "R" sound starts with a vowel. There for, the proper way to type/say it is, "an RSB".
Now back on topic.
You're right, wrong and confused. lol. The reason he made this post...
Is to show that when saying, "rear sway bar", an "a" needs to be in front of it. (a rear sway bar...)
When it is typed as "RSB", you'll pronounce it, "ARE-ES-BEE". The "R" sound starts with a vowel. There for, the proper way to type/say it is, "an RSB".
Now back on topic.
04-01-2008, 11:30 PM
#16
Yeah, back on topic :P
I think the comments about the oversteer is best described as a "bump oversteer." Basically what happens is if you're going fast in a corner, then hit a bump along the way, the rear end tends to "jump" more causing some oversteer.
Although, in my case, i'd like to describe it more as a momentary loss of control--you do have to correct at times because of that loss of rear end traction when this occurs.
The solid rear beam, coupled with the RSB, really only shines on smooth roads.
I think the comments about the oversteer is best described as a "bump oversteer." Basically what happens is if you're going fast in a corner, then hit a bump along the way, the rear end tends to "jump" more causing some oversteer.
Although, in my case, i'd like to describe it more as a momentary loss of control--you do have to correct at times because of that loss of rear end traction when this occurs.
The solid rear beam, coupled with the RSB, really only shines on smooth roads.
04-02-2008, 02:29 AM
#17
I took my RSB off because it would bind the rear suspension way too much for my liking. Just like what JSutter is saying, over uneven pavements, the entire rear beam and suspension stay stiff (together) and in turn creates a less independent feeling. This, along with the fact that it's below unsprung weight (40lbs) causes an even slower response to your rear end. A good spring/strut combo takes away most of the effect the RSB had on your stock suspension. It's just a poor design for the Maxima, although the only design really, for the rear beam we have.
04-02-2008, 02:42 AM
#18
look max lover...An Rsb will bind if you place your D-bushings in the wrong location on the rear axle beam. That lateral link bolt will hit an improperly positioned D-bushing on the right hand side of the axle beam and stop the travel of your abruptly, so during installation it is important that your suspension will still compress and rebound as designed, so check your clearances. Addco sales a decent kit and I definitely could notice the difference during turn in, especially a higher speeds! I'm running an Addco bar w/Progress Hardware!
04-02-2008, 06:35 AM
#19
04-02-2008, 07:38 AM
#20
Basically what happens is if you're going fast in a corner, then hit a bump along the way, the rear end tends to "jump" more causing some oversteer.
Although, in my case, i'd like to describe it more as a momentary loss of control--you do have to correct at times because of that loss of rear end traction when this occurs.
The solid rear beam, coupled with the RSB, really only shines on smooth roads.
Although, in my case, i'd like to describe it more as a momentary loss of control--you do have to correct at times because of that loss of rear end traction when this occurs.
The solid rear beam, coupled with the RSB, really only shines on smooth roads.
I've had that happen to me on before. scary feeling at first. Now I sort of set myself up for it during long turns just in case it happens. I prefer a little bit of controlled oversteer rather than understeer.
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
Therefore...
04-02-2008, 07:44 AM
#21
Although at +/- 15lbs., the weight is a moot point IMHO. Why? Although it adds to the weight of the car, it is to the rear (weight balance) and is quite low (center of gravity).
04-02-2008, 08:27 AM
#22
Understood, but the bar is mounted below the rear wheels (key point) which will be noticeable for any given driver, enough to want one to take it off. If you put the bar ABOVE the axle (i.e.) it will not nearly affect it as much... think of someone being piggy-backed. In all, the only way to get an RSB for our rear beam was to have this "poor" design bar hang off our suspension, rather than weave through it like many others.
04-02-2008, 09:00 AM
#23
I went and read some of the old threads about this, and it was pretty interesting. Summary:
Good:
Bad:
Basically it makes your car handle better but should only be used if you are comfortable with a more sensitive car. If you aren't an experienced driver, or value comfort over handling, then the RSB isn't for you.
It's like any other suspension mod though. Better cornering usually comes at the expense of comfort and ease of controlling the car. Why do you think the Maxima was made to have horrible understeer? So that the soccer mom won't kill her little snowflakes as she is driving them to practice while talking on the cell phone
I've got a progress RSB (which is said to be stiffer than the stillen bar) with progress springs and illuminas set to 3f / 4r. After thorough testing, I think it's great. SFCs will stiffen your chassis and help the car feel much more stable.
Good:
- flatter cornering (less body lean)
- tightens up the rear end
- reduces unwanted understeer
Bad:
- back end feels like it wants to "jump out" when turning over rough surfaces
- may cause unwanted oversteer when going over rough surfaces, turning in too fast, hitting your brakes in the middle of a turn, etc
Basically it makes your car handle better but should only be used if you are comfortable with a more sensitive car. If you aren't an experienced driver, or value comfort over handling, then the RSB isn't for you.
It's like any other suspension mod though. Better cornering usually comes at the expense of comfort and ease of controlling the car. Why do you think the Maxima was made to have horrible understeer? So that the soccer mom won't kill her little snowflakes as she is driving them to practice while talking on the cell phone
I've got a progress RSB (which is said to be stiffer than the stillen bar) with progress springs and illuminas set to 3f / 4r. After thorough testing, I think it's great. SFCs will stiffen your chassis and help the car feel much more stable.
Last edited by Armon; 04-02-2008 at 09:30 AM.
04-02-2008, 02:03 PM
#24
I have had countless setups. On a stock suspension the RSB makes a huge difference. In that case its the best bang for the buck. When you start swapping out struts and/or springs you already get less body roll, thus reducing the need for something more stiff. It might be a moot point for comfort here but I could not stand the jarring ride with the bar installed (with any suspension). There is this one corner in my neighborhood where the road dips as you turn, which the wheels follow. With the bar on both wheels want to move together, well more so it is a solid axle, which causes this weird boat bobbing feeling. The outer wheel is pulled around with the inner. It kind of makes the car rock back and forth a few times more than it normally would. I had a Progress RSB if that matters. Stillens design looks less forgiving, but then again its more adjustable.
So IMO its not worth it when you are lowered. If you are that into suspensions go with poly bushings. You can get the whole car poly'ed up for the cost of a sway bar.
So IMO its not worth it when you are lowered. If you are that into suspensions go with poly bushings. You can get the whole car poly'ed up for the cost of a sway bar.
04-02-2008, 02:59 PM
#25
Good question. In snow regions definately remove the RSB each winter. It's an easy 15-20min job and in the case of the Stillen design you'll prevent the bolts from galvanizing and seizing up inside the brackets. Besides, who wants less understeer on snow & ice?
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