Removing caliper pistons without air.
#1
Removing caliper pistons without air.
Please read update in post 10 before continuing, thanks!
This applies to the 90-96 Q45 (G50) dual piston calipers.
-Seperate the torque member from the caliper by simply sliding it off.
-Begin by removing the outer rubber seal/boot. I was able to do this by hand but if they are stubborn you can use pliers with a towel.
-With the rubber piece off, use a thicker, decently long flathead to fit in the groove where the boot fit in place.
-Use the body of the caliper to pivot the screwdriver outward moving the piston with it.
-Move each side of the piston 5-10mm at a time exposing about 25mm of the piston.
-The piston will glide slowly but if it just DOES NOT MOVE do not FORCE it to the point of damaging the recess that the boot sits it.
-After you have significant meat to work with, use a set of pliers, a towel and decent grip strength to rotate the piston back and forth.
-As you rotate the piston back and forth pull outward from the caliper.
*Again* This applies to MY G50 calipers because I am lame and don't have air to just blow the pistons out with.
This applies to the 90-96 Q45 (G50) dual piston calipers.
-Seperate the torque member from the caliper by simply sliding it off.
-Begin by removing the outer rubber seal/boot. I was able to do this by hand but if they are stubborn you can use pliers with a towel.
-With the rubber piece off, use a thicker, decently long flathead to fit in the groove where the boot fit in place.
-Use the body of the caliper to pivot the screwdriver outward moving the piston with it.
-Move each side of the piston 5-10mm at a time exposing about 25mm of the piston.
-The piston will glide slowly but if it just DOES NOT MOVE do not FORCE it to the point of damaging the recess that the boot sits it.
-After you have significant meat to work with, use a set of pliers, a towel and decent grip strength to rotate the piston back and forth.
-As you rotate the piston back and forth pull outward from the caliper.
*Again* This applies to MY G50 calipers because I am lame and don't have air to just blow the pistons out with.
Last edited by Fr33way™; 05-20-2013 at 09:04 AM.
#3
Me too. I'm about to rebuild a set of calipers and I think my friend has a compressor somewhere, you can also just use a bike pump with a cone nozzle...
But it's good to see you're still around and kicking (Justin is it?)
But it's good to see you're still around and kicking (Justin is it?)
#4
That's what the towel is for brah!
But yeah I was very careful, like I mentioned in the first post if the piston is not gradually moving to just STOP rather than really go to town on it and risk damaging it.
Morph what up man! What are you rolling now? I hope it's on 9"+
But yeah I was very careful, like I mentioned in the first post if the piston is not gradually moving to just STOP rather than really go to town on it and risk damaging it.
Morph what up man! What are you rolling now? I hope it's on 9"+
#5
#6
#10
*Even though it's a super zombie bump I'd like to update this thread for reference*
The above process worked fine for me with this set of calipers (sourced from a pull-a-part) and I think it would apply to most in good health. However, I recently rebuilt the calipers on my FGY33 Q45 and this process would NOT have worked. The dust boots were badly corroded and some of the material melted into the outer bore of the caliper borderline seizing the piston. I used a combination of on car and this method to remove the pistons.
Removing pistons while on car:
- raise and secure vehicle on jackstands, remove wheels
- open one side of caliper via 12mm bolt
- remove inner brake pad
- close caliper and re-torque bolt
- place drip container below for excess brake fluid
- shield inside of rotor from brake fluid
- gently depress brake pedal (in my case with the partially seized caliper I had to have the car running and pump the brake several times but start slow)
- if the pistons have come out far enough to contact the rotor they should be easily removed with some manual persuasion, if not re-apply brake until they contact
- remove and clamp soft brake line
- remove caliper mounting bolts
- be careful while removing the caliper to pour the remaining fluid into your container
- remove pistons with (gloved) hands or if leverage is necessary a small wood block on the rim of the piston and tap the block with a mallet
- proceed with rebuild
The above process worked fine for me with this set of calipers (sourced from a pull-a-part) and I think it would apply to most in good health. However, I recently rebuilt the calipers on my FGY33 Q45 and this process would NOT have worked. The dust boots were badly corroded and some of the material melted into the outer bore of the caliper borderline seizing the piston. I used a combination of on car and this method to remove the pistons.
Removing pistons while on car:
- raise and secure vehicle on jackstands, remove wheels
- open one side of caliper via 12mm bolt
- remove inner brake pad
- close caliper and re-torque bolt
- place drip container below for excess brake fluid
- shield inside of rotor from brake fluid
- gently depress brake pedal (in my case with the partially seized caliper I had to have the car running and pump the brake several times but start slow)
- if the pistons have come out far enough to contact the rotor they should be easily removed with some manual persuasion, if not re-apply brake until they contact
- remove and clamp soft brake line
- remove caliper mounting bolts
- be careful while removing the caliper to pour the remaining fluid into your container
- remove pistons with (gloved) hands or if leverage is necessary a small wood block on the rim of the piston and tap the block with a mallet
- proceed with rebuild
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