Could jacking on the rear beam alter the rear toe?
#1
Could jacking on the rear beam alter the rear toe?
Had an alignment several days ago. The front is almost in spec apart from some unfixable camber issues, but the rear toe is way off on the left side. I briefly lifted from the rear beam a bit off center, on the left side, using a floor jack when installing my Illuminas, however I then lowered the car and jacked in the center of the beam. This was done when I was finding a convenient location to jack so I could put jackstands under the factory jack points. Could that have caused the toe problems?
Camber:
Rear Left: -1.0
Rear Right: -1.4
Spec -1.8 to -.3 degrees.
Toe:
Rear Left: .29
Rear Right: .08
Spec on the rear toe is -.13 to .22 degrees.
Thrust angle is .11
Car has never been in any accidents. Does this mean I would want to replace that entire rear beam? Only symptom I have is at speeds between 20 and 35 mph I occasionally get this jitter from the steering wheel. I did not have this symptom until I lowered the car. Car drives straight when the wheel is not held. How common is misalignment between rear toe settings on these cars, given that they have a non adjustable rear beam design?
Camber:
Rear Left: -1.0
Rear Right: -1.4
Spec -1.8 to -.3 degrees.
Toe:
Rear Left: .29
Rear Right: .08
Spec on the rear toe is -.13 to .22 degrees.
Thrust angle is .11
Car has never been in any accidents. Does this mean I would want to replace that entire rear beam? Only symptom I have is at speeds between 20 and 35 mph I occasionally get this jitter from the steering wheel. I did not have this symptom until I lowered the car. Car drives straight when the wheel is not held. How common is misalignment between rear toe settings on these cars, given that they have a non adjustable rear beam design?
Last edited by ampire; 08-11-2010 at 09:12 AM.
#2
If you subtract the thrust angle out of it, those numbers are suddenly in spec.
0.29 - 0.11 = 0.18
0.08 + 0.11 = 0.19
does your car attempt to pull to the left at highway speeds? this amount is probably not enough to cause a huge pull, but maybe enough you have to correct it every few seconds.
Also if you lowered the car, some of this could be attributed to it because the Scott-Russell linkage holds the entire rear axle slightly off-center after the car is lowered.. That's a minivan suspension for ya. :shrug:
As for the alignment changing from jacking the car up, I wouldn't think that would do anything to it. I've jacked tons of 4 and 5 gens up via anywhere on the rear axle and it never hurt them that I know of.
Your front camber is also fixable. just depends on how much you want to pay for it. What are the numbers on the front?
0.29 - 0.11 = 0.18
0.08 + 0.11 = 0.19
does your car attempt to pull to the left at highway speeds? this amount is probably not enough to cause a huge pull, but maybe enough you have to correct it every few seconds.
Also if you lowered the car, some of this could be attributed to it because the Scott-Russell linkage holds the entire rear axle slightly off-center after the car is lowered.. That's a minivan suspension for ya. :shrug:
As for the alignment changing from jacking the car up, I wouldn't think that would do anything to it. I've jacked tons of 4 and 5 gens up via anywhere on the rear axle and it never hurt them that I know of.
Your front camber is also fixable. just depends on how much you want to pay for it. What are the numbers on the front?
#3
Front is pretty decent. It me several trips and the threat of my demanding a refund before I got a good alignment. Car drives straight at speed. At low speed, the steering wheel will jitter a bit occasionally. Car is dropped A LOT on this setup (2.5? inches). For the mechanic's adjustment, I put Eibach camber bolts in the lower bolt hole. Struts are all on setting 4 and I have Energy Suspension motor mounts and subframe bushings, which increase vibration, so I have no idea if the jitter is from alignment or from the stiffness.
Front:
Front:
Camber:
Left: -1.1 (out of spec by .1 degrees).
Right: -.9
Caster:
Left: 2.4
Right: 3.0
Toe:
Left: .13
Right: .11
Cross Camber: -.2
Cross Caster: -.6
Total Toe: .24
Rear:Left: -1.1 (out of spec by .1 degrees).
Right: -.9
Caster:
Left: 2.4
Right: 3.0
Toe:
Left: .13
Right: .11
Cross Camber: -.2
Cross Caster: -.6
Total Toe: .24
Camber:
Left: -1.0
Right: -1.4
Toe:
Left: .29
Right: .08
Cross Camber: .3
Total Toe: .38
Thrust Angle: .11
Left: -1.0
Right: -1.4
Toe:
Left: .29
Right: .08
Cross Camber: .3
Total Toe: .38
Thrust Angle: .11
Last edited by ampire; 08-11-2010 at 07:43 PM.
#4
Considering the amount you've lowered the car, you've caused a lot of other issues. the scott russell linkage bushigns are now out of whack, causing the axle to be pushed over a tad under the car and everything is in a bind. there are threads in the 4 and 5 gen forums on how to adjust this.
do that and then recheck the rear.
part of the problem with your toe in the rear is that you've rotated the beam axle quite a bit as well due to lowering the car that much. since the car was built with a small amount of camber in it from the factory for the stock ride height, it's now turned into toe issues because of the lowering.
you're probably also resting on the bumpstops in the back, but that's another story.
your front camber is fine. -1.1 deg is fine and dandy- just rotate your tires regularly and you shouldn't have any major problems.
i would almost say to adjust the rear beam bushings to recenter the rear axle, then go back to the alignment rack and see where eveyrthing is pointed then.
do that and then recheck the rear.
part of the problem with your toe in the rear is that you've rotated the beam axle quite a bit as well due to lowering the car that much. since the car was built with a small amount of camber in it from the factory for the stock ride height, it's now turned into toe issues because of the lowering.
you're probably also resting on the bumpstops in the back, but that's another story.
your front camber is fine. -1.1 deg is fine and dandy- just rotate your tires regularly and you shouldn't have any major problems.
i would almost say to adjust the rear beam bushings to recenter the rear axle, then go back to the alignment rack and see where eveyrthing is pointed then.
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