Ways to battle CV axles failures
09-25-2011, 06:26 AM
#1
Ways to battle CV axles failures
Just trying to get a list together on ways we can lower the wear on cv axles when lowering the car. I've seen on B15u they have a load of options, but still no adjustable control arm. What needs to be changed so we can help re-align the cv axles.
09-25-2011, 08:23 PM
#4
By the time you lower the car enough you have CV joint problems, you have lowered it enough you have pretty much zero suspension travel.
step 1 is to raise the car up enough so it rides and handles decent.
the other option is custom control arms and better coilovers, which nobody makes.
step 1 is to raise the car up enough so it rides and handles decent.
the other option is custom control arms and better coilovers, which nobody makes.
09-26-2011, 07:53 AM
#7
I'm sure there's room to move the motor mounts up an inch or so. The limitations would be the trans mount and the hood. Could put some washers on the back of the hood to raise it just a little. Now to fabricating some mount raisers...I wonder if anyone on here is good with CAD and can do it.
09-26-2011, 10:41 AM
#8
I'm sure there's room to move the motor mounts up an inch or so. The limitations would be the trans mount and the hood. Could put some washers on the back of the hood to raise it just a little. Now to fabricating some mount raisers...I wonder if anyone on here is good with CAD and can do it.
09-26-2011, 06:31 PM
#9
I'm sure there's room to move the motor mounts up an inch or so. The limitations would be the trans mount and the hood. Could put some washers on the back of the hood to raise it just a little. Now to fabricating some mount raisers...I wonder if anyone on here is good with CAD and can do it.
09-26-2011, 09:59 PM
#10
You would need to raise the engine and trans up to correct the angle of the axles in relation to the wheel hubs. But you would only raise the center of gravity while still having a very low roll center = even worse handling!
So you would need custom lower control arms to correct the roll center and properly designed coilovers that have much longer suspension travel.
For my car the engine/trans spacers were used to lower the front center of gravity for better handling at the possible expense of axle life. I only have about 0.75" of suspension drop so I would rather improve handling instead of going low. Alot of people have 1.25" ~ 1.5" drops for years so my setup should be ok long term.
So you would need custom lower control arms to correct the roll center and properly designed coilovers that have much longer suspension travel.
For my car the engine/trans spacers were used to lower the front center of gravity for better handling at the possible expense of axle life. I only have about 0.75" of suspension drop so I would rather improve handling instead of going low. Alot of people have 1.25" ~ 1.5" drops for years so my setup should be ok long term.
Last edited by 98SEBlackMax; 09-26-2011 at 10:10 PM.
09-29-2011, 08:08 AM
#16
Not as of right now.
The spacers and washers are about 0.5" thick, they sit in between the center crossmember and in between the transmisson mount/trans. The center cross member bolts are long enough to re-use but they had to get four longer bolts for the transmission mount.
The passenger side engine mount sits 0.5" lower, 2JR drilled the engine mount hole lower than stock.
Meximax did this on his setup to fit the 350Z intake manifold under the hood so it isn't nothing new. 2JR did this on their car as well, I think they went over 1" lower.
The spacers and washers are about 0.5" thick, they sit in between the center crossmember and in between the transmisson mount/trans. The center cross member bolts are long enough to re-use but they had to get four longer bolts for the transmission mount.
The passenger side engine mount sits 0.5" lower, 2JR drilled the engine mount hole lower than stock.
Meximax did this on his setup to fit the 350Z intake manifold under the hood so it isn't nothing new. 2JR did this on their car as well, I think they went over 1" lower.
09-29-2011, 02:52 PM
#19
I went through plenty of axles when I had the 5sp until I got the aftermarket axles (I forget the name of the vendor, Raxles???). I never broke those axles. I then did the 6sp swap, and never went through those either.
Dropping the engine further increases axle triangulation. I dropped by engine about 3/4", but never had a problem with after the 6sp swap, and I wash pushing a healthy amount of power.
Dropping the engine further increases axle triangulation. I dropped by engine about 3/4", but never had a problem with after the 6sp swap, and I wash pushing a healthy amount of power.
10-02-2011, 03:20 PM
#22
GET RAXLES!!!
Mine lasted about 4.5 years now (supercharged 3" pulley). and finally the boot started cracking because I left the car unused for a while with Power steering fluid leaking onto it. My clutch actually needed to be replaced before the boot, so I def. attest to their quality.
def. worth the initial investment. I will be getting a Boot kit from them if I can.
Also I lowered my cross member with two 1/8" washers at each bolt. this was for hood clearance with engine (whole dif. story). When I lowered the engine, I felt a difference in the cars handling characteristic.
I have vogtland springs up front which have a 1-1.25" drop I think. In addition I have shortened koni shocks which provide suspension travel. It is a great setup I have enjoyed for some time now. My car does not look lowered for the most part unless stading next to a stock car. then you notice the slight front rake.
Mine lasted about 4.5 years now (supercharged 3" pulley). and finally the boot started cracking because I left the car unused for a while with Power steering fluid leaking onto it. My clutch actually needed to be replaced before the boot, so I def. attest to their quality.
def. worth the initial investment. I will be getting a Boot kit from them if I can.
Also I lowered my cross member with two 1/8" washers at each bolt. this was for hood clearance with engine (whole dif. story). When I lowered the engine, I felt a difference in the cars handling characteristic.
I have vogtland springs up front which have a 1-1.25" drop I think. In addition I have shortened koni shocks which provide suspension travel. It is a great setup I have enjoyed for some time now. My car does not look lowered for the most part unless stading next to a stock car. then you notice the slight front rake.
Last edited by HomerMAC; 10-02-2011 at 03:25 PM.
10-10-2011, 09:55 AM
#23
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Lowering the engine/trans is a bad idea for ground clearance and axle wear reasons.
Custom control arms and coilovers for a track Max have been done, just not offered for sale.
Raising the whole front subframe has been done to improve suspension geometry and handling.
With track oriented camber, it does help outer joint life.
Custom control arms and coilovers for a track Max have been done, just not offered for sale.
Raising the whole front subframe has been done to improve suspension geometry and handling.
With track oriented camber, it does help outer joint life.
10-20-2011, 11:33 AM
#24
Kinda the opposite of what the OP was talking about but I finally lowered my drivetrain using custom spacers. They are 20mm in thickness. Here is one shot of the front ones and the rear ones on the center-beam.
Last edited by Shift_Max; 10-20-2011 at 11:57 AM.
ahhh i see i see hmm thats pretty cool
10-21-2011, 07:23 PM
#31
Lowering the engine/trans by itself lowers the front COG and shortens the roll couple. This actually helps improve handling but at the expense of axle life. Raising the suspension subframe woud help as that raises the roll center among other things.
Last edited by 98SEBlackMax; 10-21-2011 at 07:27 PM.
10-21-2011, 07:24 PM
#32
10-31-2011, 08:14 AM
#34
I'm on Eibachs now, and am considering getting BC coilovers in the spring. I want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly though; if I drop my engine/trans by 0.5", then I should raise my front suspension by the same or more, correct?
11-01-2011, 06:56 AM
#36
That is what I ended up doing. My spacers were 20mm thick so I raised the car up with the coilovers the same amount.
03-09-2012, 07:12 PM
#38
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 9
I went through plenty of axles when I had the 5sp until I got the aftermarket axles (I forget the name of the vendor, Raxles???). I never broke those axles. I then did the 6sp swap, and never went through those either.
Dropping the engine further increases axle triangulation. I dropped by engine about 3/4", but never had a problem with after the 6sp swap, and I wash pushing a healthy amount of power.
Dropping the engine further increases axle triangulation. I dropped by engine about 3/4", but never had a problem with after the 6sp swap, and I wash pushing a healthy amount of power.
