3.5 in a 4th gen
#121
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
how much and what are u getting and who is going to do it for you?
-Chris
#126
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
good buy u have everything u need now to do the swap. u got repair manuals from 96 and 2k2 maxima? when u plan to satrt thw project?
#131
I do think it's pretty cool that someone took the time to go the route you did. And I am not trying to bash you for it. I just want the public to know that the two projects discussed in this thread are just two of a few different ways to skin this cat.
#134
Tilley- The WHOLE harness/ECU/key cylinder/IMMU/gauges/etc. was swapped...at least it was when his brother maxS swapped the 5.5gen VQ35 into the 5th gen.
So, I'd say the wiring was probably pretty minimal.
So, I'd say the wiring was probably pretty minimal.
#136
Originally Posted by JClaw
Wouldn't it be way easier (relatively) to do what tilley did? Pull your 3.0 out, dump a 3.5 block, put everything back together and call it a day?
#137
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
So far I think my way is easier than both of theirs. Put in the entire VQ35, minus the VTC and wire it with the VQ30 harness.
#138
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>>So far I think my way is easier than both of theirs. Put in the entire VQ35, minus the VTC and wire it with the VQ30 harness.<<
Elaborate, please. I have all the intelligence of a rock when it comes to this... which is why someone else will be doing it for me.
I have a 1995 5-speed and my main problems are that
a) I want to keep my 5-speed tranny
b) The mention of Wiring, ECUs and all that complicated stuff causes my brain to violently rupture. I'm used to old 455s and carburated engines... Sad, really.
Just dumping a 3.5 block without even thinking about the wiring would save me some headaches but I'm really interested to know how you'd do it... be specific my IQ is lower than a Honda's torque curve right now
Elaborate, please. I have all the intelligence of a rock when it comes to this... which is why someone else will be doing it for me.
I have a 1995 5-speed and my main problems are that
a) I want to keep my 5-speed tranny
b) The mention of Wiring, ECUs and all that complicated stuff causes my brain to violently rupture. I'm used to old 455s and carburated engines... Sad, really.
Just dumping a 3.5 block without even thinking about the wiring would save me some headaches but I'm really interested to know how you'd do it... be specific my IQ is lower than a Honda's torque curve right now
#140
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Which is why I'd go with 3.5 block only... I mean, keeping as much 3.0 stuff as possible will just make things easier.
Plus, the extra compression. 5.5 gen engines fit in the same engine bay and have 255HP, so with the extra compression and aftermarket headers/cat/full catback... would 300HP be possible?
Plus, the extra compression. 5.5 gen engines fit in the same engine bay and have 255HP, so with the extra compression and aftermarket headers/cat/full catback... would 300HP be possible?
#141
First of all, it's not 255 to the wheels so it would take a lot more than some exhaust mods to reach 300 hp. Second, the VTC gives the 3.5 a lot of that horsepower. So no, just dropping in a 3.5 block with 3.0 heads and calling it a day would not be the efficient way of doing things. Easier, yes, better, no.
-Chris
-Chris
#143
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>>First of all, it's not 255 to the wheels<<
I never said it had 255 at the wheels.
>>Second, the VTC gives the 3.5 a lot of that horsepower. So no, just dropping in a 3.5 block with 3.0 heads and calling it a day would not be the efficient way of doing things. Easier, yes, better, no.<<
He still got a 13.8 timeslip without the mevi...
As for dropping the whole 3.5 without the VTC in, why would you want 3.5 heads over the 3.0s?
I never said it had 255 at the wheels.
>>Second, the VTC gives the 3.5 a lot of that horsepower. So no, just dropping in a 3.5 block with 3.0 heads and calling it a day would not be the efficient way of doing things. Easier, yes, better, no.<<
He still got a 13.8 timeslip without the mevi...
As for dropping the whole 3.5 without the VTC in, why would you want 3.5 heads over the 3.0s?
#144
Originally Posted by ImStockBaby
But if you use the 3.5 heads, aren't you faced with different exhaust manifold ports, requiring the 3.5 exhaust manifolds? This leads to which y-pipe will fit and will not fit etc...
#145
I have to dispute this cause first off the 3.0 has a completely different cam pos sensor (oppostie side of head and has different pickups) second 3.5 flywheel has completely different teeth for the CPS 3.0 has 360 teeth and 3.5 has I think 3 teeth that are huge and 3 small) also the TB but that can be modded too work. I was thinking the same as you SR20DEN but then after looking at it its hopeless.
#146
I am pretty sure that the valves are bigger on the 3.5 heads as well as a safe everyday drive compression ratio that wont give you problems in the long run, and since gas prices are as high as they are why would you want to have to drop in octane booster everytime you fill-up? Kind of a PITA if you ask me.
-Chris
-Chris
#148
Originally Posted by TILLEYS99
I have to dispute this cause first off the 3.0 has a completely different cam pos sensor (oppostie side of head and has different pickups) second 3.5 flywheel has completely different teeth for the CPS 3.0 has 360 teeth and 3.5 has I think 3 teeth that are huge and 3 small) also the TB but that can be modded too work. I was thinking the same as you SR20DEN but then after looking at it its hopeless.
The 3.0 ECU needs to see the sensor on the front cover, the 90º reference and the 1º crank trigger. All of which can be swapped over.
#151
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
If someone would bring me a freakin car already I could show everyone how to do this. You do have to swap some of the parts of course.
The 3.0 ECU needs to see the sensor on the front cover, the 90º reference and the 1º crank trigger. All of which can be swapped over.
The 3.0 ECU needs to see the sensor on the front cover, the 90º reference and the 1º crank trigger. All of which can be swapped over.
#152
Originally Posted by TILLEYS99
How are you gonna swap over the 1degree sensor on the flywheel, with my 6spd on my 99 I HAD to use a 6 spd flywheel which has the CPS ring welded to it, i had to grind it off and weld the 3.0 CPS ring on to it. IMO its a pain in the A$$.
#153
SR20DEN - I think your way is BETTER since VQ35 heads flow/cooling is superior, but using only the VQ35 shortblock and VQ30 5spd trans would be the easier route.
Why someone with a 100K+ mile 4th gen in your area wouldn't jump at your cRaCK ***** pricing/slave labor is beyond me.
Why someone with a 100K+ mile 4th gen in your area wouldn't jump at your cRaCK ***** pricing/slave labor is beyond me.
#155
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Mine has 115K miles but I'm in Canada...
What about the new VQ40? Why couldn't we take a 3.5 bottom end, stroke it to 4.0 and put 4.0L pistons and rods in with 3.0 heads, wiring, ECU and tranny...
What about the new VQ40? Why couldn't we take a 3.5 bottom end, stroke it to 4.0 and put 4.0L pistons and rods in with 3.0 heads, wiring, ECU and tranny...
#156
Originally Posted by krismax
Use 5 speed in the first place?
1 5spd flywheel CPS is different and not easily changable
2. offset on the starter teeth is off and starter wont catch them (believe me I know from past problem)
3. 5 speed fly wheel is too far away from casing that them input shaft for the trans on goes about 3\8 of an inch into clucth disc which if your making power is gonna strip the splines
4. clutch wont disengage cause its too far away from trans and when it is pushed in it causes the throwout bearing to get caught on the outer sleeve of input shaft.
These are all problems that come into play I know from experience so dont flame me if you havent tried it.