3.5 Bottom And 3.0 Heads Finnaly Running
01-04-2005, 12:26 PM
#44
Originally Posted by Larrio
thanks. Does JWT have a part number for those spacers or is it a custom ordered set?
01-04-2005, 02:18 PM
#45
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
You MUST dyno this thing...we need to see the powerband.
Any plans on dynoing?
Any plans on dynoing?
I didn't know my tranny would quit on me, only 3days after the swap and its already slipping AUTO SUCKS!!
So I don't think I'll be heading to the dyno any time soon, when I get this 5speed in then I'll dyno it.
[IMG]
01-06-2005, 06:10 AM
#49
Originally Posted by Ninos_Maxima
Whoa man this thing looks dope so far, Whats the symptons of a failing tranny, Have a strong sucspicion that mine was slipping before I came here.
01-06-2005, 08:48 AM
#51
japmaxSE,
Can you put together a list of what parts you needed to swap from the VQ30 onto the VQ35 and any modifications you made to make everything fit/work?
What sensors, accessories, or tranny parts did you use/swap?
Can you put together a list of what parts you needed to swap from the VQ30 onto the VQ35 and any modifications you made to make everything fit/work?
What sensors, accessories, or tranny parts did you use/swap?
01-06-2005, 09:57 AM
#52
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
japmaxSE,
Can you put together a list of what parts you needed to swap from the VQ30 onto the VQ35 and any modifications you made to make everything fit/work?
What sensors, accessories, or tranny parts did you use/swap?
Can you put together a list of what parts you needed to swap from the VQ30 onto the VQ35 and any modifications you made to make everything fit/work?
What sensors, accessories, or tranny parts did you use/swap?
123456
01-07-2005, 07:42 AM
#54
Ok it’s pretty straight forward this is off top of my head.
You get yourself a 3.5 motor tear it apart to bare block. Then you can take out the original motor, and start tearing that apart to its bare block. Now it gets interesting I used the 3.5 cams so that was a little of a headache being that I was the first try this out with the help of Rob and Sr20.
It's pretty easy you need to drill 180* hole from the original pin hole only on the intake cams the exhaust cams need no drilling except for putting in the 3.0 pins there longer, only so it can clear the sproket.
Now that you have your new hole now insert the 3.0 pin in the new hole and JWT spacer now the timing is correct on the intake cams. When re-installing the cams in VQ you have to have all cam pin holes facing up that brings us back on why we had to drill the 180* pin hole on the intake cams.
Ok Now that’s solved reinstalling them is cake. As far as the heads I went over to the machine shop and with the aid of my friend we ported out the intake and exhaust sides, also ported was the lower IM to match and upper.
Ofcourse I polished all the work so it's nice and smooth. Ok that takes care of the Heads. The Heads bolt directly on top of the 3.5 block no prob but you’re going to find an Oil pump feed line on the 3.5 which you will need to block off. The 3.0 block does not have this it's plugged up so use the 3.5 plug and plug it up on the 3.5.
Now if you look on the 3.5 it has a pin popping out on the rear end seal where the flywheel bolts up. I just grinded it off so that my auto can bolt up to it. Ok now you bolt up your 3.0 upper oil pan and use all 3.0 stuff from there on. It's straight forward but hard to explain you need be doing it or have the engine in front of you to look at. I didn't have to switch any wires or anything like that. It all bolts up.
Well I've been with German Performance for a year now there I tear down 100k+ motors all day long and prep the car for the track. So I have acquired the knowledge to breaking an engine down. Being this is my first Nissan, I never opened up a Nissan ever before so Tilley came in handy
.
I don't recommend anyone with just basic car knowledge doing this. If you haven’t torn down an engine before and knowing of the proper procedures in an engine tear down then, TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK, have Tilley do it for you, if not I recommend going to someone that has worked on VQ's before.
You get yourself a 3.5 motor tear it apart to bare block. Then you can take out the original motor, and start tearing that apart to its bare block. Now it gets interesting I used the 3.5 cams so that was a little of a headache being that I was the first try this out with the help of Rob and Sr20.
It's pretty easy you need to drill 180* hole from the original pin hole only on the intake cams the exhaust cams need no drilling except for putting in the 3.0 pins there longer, only so it can clear the sproket.
Now that you have your new hole now insert the 3.0 pin in the new hole and JWT spacer now the timing is correct on the intake cams. When re-installing the cams in VQ you have to have all cam pin holes facing up that brings us back on why we had to drill the 180* pin hole on the intake cams.
Ok Now that’s solved reinstalling them is cake. As far as the heads I went over to the machine shop and with the aid of my friend we ported out the intake and exhaust sides, also ported was the lower IM to match and upper.
Ofcourse I polished all the work so it's nice and smooth. Ok that takes care of the Heads. The Heads bolt directly on top of the 3.5 block no prob but you’re going to find an Oil pump feed line on the 3.5 which you will need to block off. The 3.0 block does not have this it's plugged up so use the 3.5 plug and plug it up on the 3.5.
Now if you look on the 3.5 it has a pin popping out on the rear end seal where the flywheel bolts up. I just grinded it off so that my auto can bolt up to it. Ok now you bolt up your 3.0 upper oil pan and use all 3.0 stuff from there on. It's straight forward but hard to explain you need be doing it or have the engine in front of you to look at. I didn't have to switch any wires or anything like that. It all bolts up.
Well I've been with German Performance for a year now there I tear down 100k+ motors all day long and prep the car for the track. So I have acquired the knowledge to breaking an engine down. Being this is my first Nissan, I never opened up a Nissan ever before so Tilley came in handy
.I don't recommend anyone with just basic car knowledge doing this. If you haven’t torn down an engine before and knowing of the proper procedures in an engine tear down then, TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK, have Tilley do it for you, if not I recommend going to someone that has worked on VQ's before.
01-09-2005, 08:50 PM
#61
Originally Posted by joosdawg
cmon man can u at least get a video of you revving it with the hood open so we can at the least hear it!!! and its great deepness 
Good news I just came from the SFMG meet today and Luke has some awsome videos of me whoopin the Sh$% out of a RSX type S
and some with my car reving. As soon as I get the video I'll have him post it on here.
01-10-2005, 11:05 AM
#64
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
Good news I just came from the SFMG meet today and Luke has some awsome videos of me whoopin the Sh$% out of a RSX type S and some with my car reving. As soon as I get the video I'll have him post it on here.
and some with my car reving. As soon as I get the video I'll have him post it on here.
01-11-2005, 06:36 AM
#67
I saw it... great effort by gtr to get it but much to the advantage of that stupid RSX-S you can't really tell since there were a few cars infront of him and they were doing over 130 
Apparently the RSX-S lost by a good 5 cars. Again, thanks for the pics and the videos. It was a great effort, pics were great and tons of credit goes out to the camera man.
Apparently the RSX-S lost by a good 5 cars. Again, thanks for the pics and the videos. It was a great effort, pics were great and tons of credit goes out to the camera man.
01-11-2005, 08:04 AM
#69
AHWW THAT VIDEO WAS NICE!! Now I see what everyone was talking about how my rear-end almost hit the ground when I punched it 
. Good effort by the camera man to hang in there damn.
01-11-2005, 08:06 AM
#70
Oh sorry..click here for the Video Fredrsx1 All those videos are from that same day..
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...bum.php&page=6
I'll see if GTR Rider has some better ones...
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...bum.php&page=6
I'll see if GTR Rider has some better ones...
01-11-2005, 03:58 PM
#76
so...about the revving video or somthing, is there any way that you could get like an exhaust video up with inside outside and revving engine with the throttle cable while holding the hood open somthing that shows the beastlyness of the hybrid
01-16-2005, 01:28 PM
#78
Originally Posted by TopElement
I still don't get why you guys are wasting time drilling the right bank intake cam. Only the left side needs to have the pin relocated, since that sprocket is what the camshaft position sensors reads the bumps from.
There is a thing called acm timing, you cant just make the sprocket right and assume the cams will be then.
01-16-2005, 09:50 PM
#79
Originally Posted by TopElement
I'm assuming you mean "cam timing", and not "acm timing." If you don't drill the cam, the sprocket will instead be rotated 180*. That cam will still be at the correct timing, and the arrow on the sprocket will be exactly 180* from the dark link on the chain that it originally lines up to.
So, the only cam that needs to have the pin repositioned is where the CMPS sits to read the cylinder # signal.
So, the only cam that needs to have the pin repositioned is where the CMPS sits to read the cylinder # signal.
The main reason for this is the 3.5 cam lobes are 180* off from where they need to be only on the intake. It's in the manual when installing cams for our VQ's ALL PINS FACING UP. Have you actually compared the two cams in front of you, I don't think you have.
What you’re saying is just on the left bank where the CPS is, ok so leave the right bank alone who cares if the lobes are upside down when installing them. I guess you would be interested in seeing the pistons give the valves a BIG KISS
