nismology

iTrader: (8)

Looks like it's leaking from the upper oil pan. If it's leaking from that, it could also be leaking from anywhere else that you resealed with the RTV. Did you use high-temp RTV?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Might be leaking from the vavle covers if it is in the "V"

THT

iTrader: (8)

He used the same RTV we used on my 3.0 rear valve cover and I haven't had any problems.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

I am pretty sure I used high temp, I will have to check the box again.

JClaw: I bought the engine with a leaky rear VC, so that is new, I have 2 new VC gaskets, also it doesnt seem to be leaking from the VC, because there is oil on top of the VC also.

vsamoylov

damn that sucks man. maybe clean everything up and start it again and see where it leaks from?

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

My friend and I tried that today. We cannot locate a source for the oil on the tranny case or the pools around the knock sensor or upper IM...


I am done w/ the car. I do not want to get rid of it, but it seems like I am constantly trying to get the car to work right. Sad to say, but it will most likely be parted out...

vsamoylov

are you kidding me? so the swap is pointless then? seems like your taking the easy way out.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

I just don't want to deal with it anymore. I came into this swap saying to myself that if problems arise, I wouldn't think twice but to get rid of the car. To me, the headaches that I am going through right now are not worth the extra 50 hp this swap gives. I'll take it as a loss, its fine with me.. Time to move on. Will I stay in the Maxima family? Without a doubt.

95CustomMaxima

iTrader: (5)

How is the front valve cover? Any oil sweat on the gasket? How about the intake manifold? My front VC was leaking and the oil leaked all down the tranny much like yours, by the knock sensor, and polled up by the IM. I also had oil leaking down from the alternator, the oil would pool up by the IM and then run down the tranny, alternator and knock sensor.

-Nick

nismology

iTrader: (8)

That doesn't say much because a VC with a new gasket will not leak if torqued down properly, whether you use RTV sealant or not. RTV sealant in that case is more to keep the gasket in place as you place it onto the heads.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

This is pretty stupid how you're giving up so quickly. WTF do you expect with a swap like this man?

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

It is a natural response after doing all that work, I don't blame him for being discouraged.

Anyway, before you give up Nismo, you really should remove your valve covers, clean off the gasket surfaces with acetone and bolt the VCs back on. If no change, move on to the inner and outer timing chain covers and then the oil pan.

By the way, the VC gaskets require gasket sealer only at a couple inch-long discrete spots at the timing chain end, not the entire mating surface.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Pretty gutless move if you ask me...

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Give the guy a rest, as Stephen max said, when you've done all that hard work and run into something like this, you feel like shoving your head through a wall.

I almost gave up many times doing this... specially when I tried to use the 2k2 wiring. What I did was to take a week off, and come back to it fresh.

Besides, I'm sure he's not gonna give up, he's just pissed Down a couple of bears, sleep, forget it for a few days...

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

He'll calm down...just take some time off and come back fresh.

My GUESS is valve or timing chain covers. ONCE YOU'VE TAKEN TIME OFF....wash/wipe the engine completely clean and then start it up and go over it with a fine tooth comb.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Timing chain covers are likely if you ask me. They aren't that hard to take off, and with the way the 3.0 covers are made, you can do it while in the car.

Nismo, trust me, I felt like that earlier on doing this swap, and that feeling comes and goes, and leaves when you're done.

japmaxSE

iTrader: (7)

Damn I know you all remember my little fit when I was trying to make the 3.5 cams work I was the only one to try this and I was blaming everyone I couldn't have done it without the help of fellow orgers. I got to say I felt like giving up a bunch of times but when I first started it I still had probs oil shootn out from underneath and tranny fluid was pooring out, it came to be that I forgot a bolt in the oil pump side and for the tranny the tranny cooler line was loose. Please don't give up trust me it's all part of the game just keep at it it will payoff beleive me...

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

Well I opened up the oil cap today and looked inside, and saw part of the valve cover gasket resting on the cam! I am thinking when I installed it, it slipped out of place, because it was cut into 2 seperate pieces. So about 2 inches of the VC wasn't sealed at all. I installed the VC gasket that I still had that came with the motor, and so far so good. The upper oil pan is still leaking though.

JClaw: I completely removed my IACV, and the idle is lower now, it went from 3300 rpm, to 1500. Still high, but way better than 3300.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Just like mine. I'm gonna have to ask Tilley about the idle.

PS- did you remove the intake manifold divider valve when you opened it?

BTW, Fix that oil pan leak and enjoy the torque steer.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

No, I couldn't get the 2 screws off. I tried but all I did was strip the screws.

I am thinking about fixing the leak. The torque on this engine is just unbelieveable.

I think we will have to mess with our TPS's.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Could it be that the TPS needs to NOT touch the small metal part at idle? I adjusted mine so both small metal parts "touch" themselves at idle. Maybe they shouldn't at all. I need to remake my TPS bracket anyway (not solid at all).

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Glad you found part of the problem! Hope the rest works out for yah.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Any updates? Did you fix that oil pan leak, you lazy ****? j/k

On an interesting side note, the body shop guy says my car surprised the f*ck out of him when he moved it around.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

After I fixed the VC leak, the car has not been leaking now.

BTW: Where did you mount your throttle cable bracket? 1st and 2nd gear is jerky as h3ll when you ease on the throttle.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Check in the other thread. I think this is one of the reasons Nissan switched to Drive-By-Wire instead of cable for 2002. I don't mind the jerkiness (or torque steer, for that matter), it kind of gives you the impression that the car is overpowered which I love.

The jerkiness happens because you have to be really precise and gentle with the throttle. Maybe it's different for you because you have your cable bracket bolted to the firewall. Place it on the Intake Manifold instead.