Dyno tune Q's?
 

I posted this in the Dyno section...but I know a good chunk of information can be applied to here as well...so I'm going to ask it here as well...

Please also provide the following...

1. How much did your dyno tune cost?
2. How many hours of dyno time?
3. What Air/Fuel ratio did you begin with?
4. What Air/Fuel ratio did you end with?

thank you!

Here it's $50 per dyno run, and around $100 an hour for tuning. If they know what they're doing, I don't see any reason for them taking up more than an hour.

Ic...thanks for the input...the local dyno shop is pretty big and many so cal members can vouch for them...they charge $150/hr and I'm hoping thats all I have to pay to get a good tune...I'm interested in 13.5 +/- 0.5 from 2.5k to 6.5k :) ....i just wanna see what others have gotten out of curiosity

Ever thought about just getting a WB o2 w/ datalog? You can get one for about $400-$500 so you can street tune it. To me (especially someone without a whole lot of tuning experience) I think dyno tune will ultimatly cost more money in the long run, with the WB datalog you can monitor the AF and other time get better readings than tailpipe sniffers that many dyno shop uses. Plus you can take your time tunning instead of worring about having 1 hr to dial in the tune. After you get the tune go to a dyno and see what u put down.
$500 WB would = 3.5ish hr of tune.
Just my .02 cents

You know, I have considered a WB02...the capabilities of one seems very promising...but I'm not too interested in the price...and the fine tuning capabilities of a WB02...I already have all the bolt ons for my vq35...theres nothing else I can do to it that will require a new tune...so I'm only interested in a one time tune that will serve me well for awhile...thanks for the input anyway!

What do fuel management/ignition management do you have installed that they will be tuning with?

oops...forgot to mention...V AFCII

what do you think mike? I know you have a wb02...but what are your opinions on both sides of the story?

Its a investment. IF you eventually get another mod somewhere down the line then you'll have to go dyno tune again. Two dyno tune sessions and the time spent going there will almost be as much as a WBo2

Or lets say you get a new car, then its new mods and a new dyno tune.

I believe the zeitronix is roughly around $350

sorry if this is a newbie question...but wouldn't you need some sort of laptop or palm in order to datalog? i dont have any of those and they are expensive to buy...

I think Icey2k1 has the emanage ultimate and he is still borrowing labtops :D

If you had a A/F display along with your WBo2, you can get by somewhat on that alone. Otherwise a simple palm pilot is a small investment also. OR you can just borrow a labtop simply for your own test and tune session and return it.

Actually I don't have a WB, I have either borrowed a friends LM-1 or dyno tuned. I should have had one a long time ago though since my set up seems to always be changing.

In your case, I would just do it on a dyno. No need to spend the money on all the data logging stuff when you just need a few pulls on a dyno, some VAFC adjustments and the car is good to go. With a FI car it is much more complicated since boost levels change, and AFR and timing are so much more critical. Sure it's nice to have and all but I don't think you need it with the current state of your car

yeah thats what I thought...thanks!

so enough with the WB02 talk...anybody else wanna answer the first 4 questions at the top? :gapteeth:

Most places are between $100 and $150 an hour. GRD for instance is $150 for the first hour, $100 per after that. For an NA tune with a simple device like an SAFC I don't see any way you are going to need more than a single hour.

this is a noob question but when you N/A dyno tuning all you would need is a SAFC to control the air and match it with the fuel. But say when you dyno tuning a boosted would you need something to control the amount of fuel as well?


But yea i haven't seen a shop in the IL area that charged over $150 per hour.

SAFC adds or takes away fuel, and I'm not sure I understand your question...

Typically yes, in an F/I car, you need to add fuel, but this can also be the case in N/A .. :so :gotme:

Sounds like your not real sure how an SAFC works. It doesn't change the amout of air entering the motor. All it does is change the amout of air the ECU thinks is entering the motor, thus causing more or less fuel to be added. The ECU lowers or raises injector duty cycle (amout of fuel sprayed by injector) based on MAF sensor voltage. For example, when you take fuel away using an SAFC what is happening is that the signal going to the ECU from the MAF is intercepted by the SAFC and lowered. A lower voltage signal will cause the the ECU to spray less fuel. But There is actually more air entering the motor than the ECU thinks since the SAFC has changed that signal before it gets to the ECU. Thus the same amount of air, but less fuel.


An SAFC is a old school crude way of tuning...and I use the term "tune" lightly. Adjusting AFR is only one aspect of tuning, so saying your "tuning" your car with an SAFC is kinda gay. All your doing is adding or subtracing some fuel.

so to anwser your question directly, with an SAFC all your doing is controlling fuel wether your car is NA or FI.

it would be nice to know this, someone PLEASE answer...im also going to dynotune with my VAFC-2. if anyone knows some answers would be great

:wtf: are you talking about? Ever bother to read a thread before posting?

Did you miss all the answers people have already provided?