Hardest part of the 3.5 swap?
05-05-2006, 07:39 AM
#1
fwd gone rwd cr00
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Hardest part of the 3.5 swap?
hey, i'm in the process of my swap, and i'm gathering as much info as I can.
Having a conversation with a few people from the .org, they told me that the timng cover seal may leak. What's the best way i should seal it? I've heard to make a nice bead pattern with rtv sealant. Also, I'm VERY concerned as to the the timing chain and tensioner. I'm going to triple check everything in the timing case before I put the covers back on. Any tips on making a fool proof installation? I have the haynes and FSM.
Also, i saw in the 3.5 procedure that you have to drill out some of the timing cover, but I didn't really understand exactly how much. Anyone have any other pics to show how it should look?
I'm asking a bunch of questions because I wanna do it right, and I know i'll get good info this way.
Having a conversation with a few people from the .org, they told me that the timng cover seal may leak. What's the best way i should seal it? I've heard to make a nice bead pattern with rtv sealant. Also, I'm VERY concerned as to the the timing chain and tensioner. I'm going to triple check everything in the timing case before I put the covers back on. Any tips on making a fool proof installation? I have the haynes and FSM.
Also, i saw in the 3.5 procedure that you have to drill out some of the timing cover, but I didn't really understand exactly how much. Anyone have any other pics to show how it should look?
I'm asking a bunch of questions because I wanna do it right, and I know i'll get good info this way.
05-05-2006, 07:48 AM
#2
hey well the hardest part isnt the swap physically.its dealing with it mentally.but the timing chain is pretty simple line up the marks:2 blue for the camgears. and a gold link for the crank sprocket.the timing cover you kinda have to test fit it till it fits.but its gonna kinda be up and to the left(look it from the inside part where the timing equi. goes)hey if you want you can call me with any other questions.just pm me.good luck guy
05-05-2006, 08:00 AM
#3
Originally Posted by tavarish
hey, i'm in the process of my swap, and i'm gathering as much info as I can.
Having a conversation with a few people from the .org, they told me that the timng cover seal may leak. What's the best way i should seal it? I've heard to make a nice bead pattern with rtv sealant. Also, I'm VERY concerned as to the the timing chain and tensioner. I'm going to triple check everything in the timing case before I put the covers back on. Any tips on making a fool proof installation? I have the haynes and FSM.
Also, i saw in the 3.5 procedure that you have to drill out some of the timing cover, but I didn't really understand exactly how much. Anyone have any other pics to show how it should look?
I'm asking a bunch of questions because I wanna do it right, and I know i'll get good info this way.
Having a conversation with a few people from the .org, they told me that the timng cover seal may leak. What's the best way i should seal it? I've heard to make a nice bead pattern with rtv sealant. Also, I'm VERY concerned as to the the timing chain and tensioner. I'm going to triple check everything in the timing case before I put the covers back on. Any tips on making a fool proof installation? I have the haynes and FSM.
Also, i saw in the 3.5 procedure that you have to drill out some of the timing cover, but I didn't really understand exactly how much. Anyone have any other pics to show how it should look?
I'm asking a bunch of questions because I wanna do it right, and I know i'll get good info this way.
I wasn't at the shop when they put my timming equipment on and i forgot to ask if they enlarged that hole. If they didn't could that be a problem? It looks to be a hole for one of the mounting screws? They didn't say they had any problems and i just totally forgot to remind them.
Sorry for the thread jack but if that timming euipment has to come off i am f'd
05-05-2006, 08:28 AM
#4
Originally Posted by chris'smax
I wasn't at the shop when they put my timming equipment on and i forgot to ask if they enlarged that hole. If they didn't could that be a problem? It looks to be a hole for one of the mounting screws? They didn't say they had any problems and i just totally forgot to remind them.
Sorry for the thread jack but if that timming euipment has to come off i am f'd
Sorry for the thread jack but if that timming euipment has to come off i am f'd
I think you are OK because they way I am reading in this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430880
you have to enlarge the hole to use the timing cases. If they didn't I don't think it would have went together. So seeing that the motor is together.. I think you are OK.
Mike
05-05-2006, 10:01 AM
#6
jus make sure you put sealant on all the grooves and your good.and for the slack part when you put everything together you'll barely have any left to worry bout.jus put the tensioner on last.
like i said earlier if you want pm me if you want my number.
like i said earlier if you want pm me if you want my number.
05-05-2006, 10:38 AM
#7
Originally Posted by tavarish
I'm just majorly worried about sealing the case, and having slack in the timing chain.
05-05-2006, 01:10 PM
#8
Originally Posted by mforrest100
Chris,
I think you are OK because they way I am reading in this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430880
you have to enlarge the hole to use the timing cases. If they didn't I don't think it would have went together. So seeing that the motor is together.. I think you are OK.
Mike
I think you are OK because they way I am reading in this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430880
you have to enlarge the hole to use the timing cases. If they didn't I don't think it would have went together. So seeing that the motor is together.. I think you are OK.
Mike
05-05-2006, 06:47 PM
#11
Clean the surfaces well. Apply sealant, let dry, scrape off excess. That's about all the advice I have on the sealant. Why Nissan likes this stuff so much I don't know and they seem to use more of it with each new version of the VQ.
As far as enlarging the hole through the timing chain cover, you should be able to measure the bolts and enlarge them the necessary amounts, since you have to pull the 3.5 timing equiptment off first.
G'Luck.
As far as enlarging the hole through the timing chain cover, you should be able to measure the bolts and enlarge them the necessary amounts, since you have to pull the 3.5 timing equiptment off first.
G'Luck.
05-05-2006, 06:56 PM
#12
Originally Posted by SNOMAX
As far as enlarging the hole through the timing chain cover, you should be able to measure the bolts and enlarge them the necessary amounts, since you have to pull the 3.5 timing equiptment off first.
G'Luck.
G'Luck.
To be honest, the hardest part of this swap was taking the crank pulley off of the 3.5.
05-06-2006, 12:40 AM
#17
Originally Posted by diymaximakid
yall do no there is a tab you can use to hold the crank in place while you take it off?i got mine off with a breaker bar the first time
05-11-2006, 01:37 PM
#21
You guys don't know the old trick of cranking the engine really quick to break the nut loose while the breaker bar is attached?
That's only if you don't have a strong enoough impact to loosen it.
That's only if you don't have a strong enoough impact to loosen it.
05-11-2006, 05:01 PM
#22
Originally Posted by deezo
You guys don't know the old trick of cranking the engine really quick to break the nut loose while the breaker bar is attached?
That's only if you don't have a strong enoough impact to loosen it.
That's only if you don't have a strong enoough impact to loosen it.
05-12-2006, 12:50 PM
#26
Originally Posted by nismology
Not necessarily. My ridgid electric impact eats crank bolts for lunch.
thats kinda suprising but it kinda makes sense if they are anything like some of the drills i use at work sometimes. We have some electic hammer drills at work and if you are drilling on some concrete and they get hung up they produce so much torque it will literally jerk you around like a rag doll.
I just looked up the part# on mine (DW290) and it only has 240 ft/lb..
05-13-2006, 11:32 AM
#31
I have the Craftsman Electric impact and that thing is good. It has 325 ft pounds of torque. I used it last weekend to remove some stiff bolts on the Max it worked like a charm.
05-13-2006, 02:34 PM
#32
Originally Posted by nismology
Not necessarily. My ridgid electric impact eats crank bolts for lunch.
Well it doesn't have to be air tools, just something that is operated by a trigger.
05-13-2006, 07:33 PM
#35
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Hm... Tilley makes it look really easy. Not to mention Mardi
The world's two fastest Maximas.
The world's two fastest Maximas.
And FYI, when you say 'fastest' that refers to trap speed. Neals car has trapped higher than Tilleys car at this point in time.
05-13-2006, 07:45 PM
#36
They both have 3.5 swaps, which this thread is pertaining to, do they not? Your post insisted that it's difficult for 3.5 swaps to make power.. That's where my example of Mardi and Tilley come into play.
My point is it's not any harder to make power than other Maximas. We just arent trying that hard. (me atleast)
Making power is DEFINITELY not the hardest part......
When I said fastest, I meant from point A to B. ie 1/4 mile. That's what they're all about.
My point is it's not any harder to make power than other Maximas. We just arent trying that hard. (me atleast)
Making power is DEFINITELY not the hardest part......
When I said fastest, I meant from point A to B. ie 1/4 mile. That's what they're all about.
05-13-2006, 07:57 PM
#37
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
They both have 3.5 swaps, which this thread is pertaining to, do they not? Your post insisted that it's difficult for 3.5 swaps to make power.. That's where my example of Mardi and Tilley come into play.
My point is it's not any harder to make power than other Maximas. We just arent trying that hard. (me atleast)
Making power is DEFINITELY not the hardest part......
Making power is DEFINITELY not the hardest part......
When I said fastest, I meant from point A to B. ie 1/4 mile. That's what they're all about.
05-13-2006, 08:05 PM
#38
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
My post insisted nothing. I did however insiniate that making power in the swap was 'apparently' the hardest thing to do. Because dozens of people have done the project and so far only two have appeard to have made it worthwhile. Speaking in NA terms of course because this isn't the FI forum.
Why try at all if you're going to do the job half a$$ed and follow all of the other bad examples?
That would be 'quickest' not 'fastest'.
05-14-2006, 05:27 PM
#39
fwd gone rwd cr00
Thread Starter
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Elizabeth, NJ
Posts: 3,327
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Insinuate. Tomato Tomahto.
Right now I am satisfied with the performance. I didn't know that not trying my best to make the most power is half assing it.
Okay then. Quickest.
Right now I am satisfied with the performance. I didn't know that not trying my best to make the most power is half assing it.
Okay then. Quickest.
By the way.....anyone want a parts car? I cant seem to get rid of it for the life of me.
