Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Just a thought, in case someone else was thinking the same thing, but, I thought to myself earlier (referring to the new wiring involving an outside 12v source instead of using the 12v from the 2 TCU wires), "What if the TCU thinks it's time to shift and shifts on you before you want it to since you're not in 1st, but instead in drive?" But then I thought, it doesn't really matter what the TCU thinks. First of all, it's signal isn't going anywhere when you're in "race" mode Secondly, if you're in drive and providing a constant A+B signal, it can't shift out of 1st because you're still applying what is necessary for 1st gear. Either way, it all comes down to the fact that the TCU's signal isn't being seen by the transmission. I just thought I'd share that in case anyone else had the same retarded thoughts as I did

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Once again, you've got it. The switch controls the shift solenoids. But - the position of the shift lever is still controlling some other functions. Something having to do with the shift lever set in first gear must be holding back on 4th gear.

Up to you to figure it out, bud. At least, what combination of shift-lever positions allow which gears can be selected from the shift_fast switches.
(ug - bad english composition there..)

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Yeah, I didn't used to think much of the gear lever position, but you're definitely onto something with the idea. I was going to try and have the wiring for it done tonight, but while I was in the middle of constructing it I put a nice slice into my thumb It's gonna have to wait til tomorrow or friday.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

This is why I asked about keeping it in 1st gear before. I thought that would cause an issue. Glad you guys have started t figure it out tho. This mess should be sorted before I can even start my shift_fast.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Well my wiring is done, I just need to connect it to the cig. lighter wiring or something and test it out. No time to do that today, though, so maybe tomorrow.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Great .. If you look at a FSM for the automatic, there are several wires going to the tranny from the tranny computer. Only two are for the solenoids. I think they all go through the same 8-pin connector on top of the tranny.

I suppose I could check all the other wires with a voltmeter while pulling the shift lever into the different positions - and switching the Overdrive off and on - to see what's really happening. If there's a clue there, I could force any other wires to a controlled voltage from the shift_fast.... Hummmm... After Xmas - I have family coming this weekend.

You should be able to put the shifter into Drive and control the tranny with the shift_fast, if you have the switch power connected to 12 volts. It probably won't shift as hard, though - my guess....

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I forgot - you started this thread !

It looks like some good stuff is coming out of it - I hope you think so, anyway. Wait till Kevlo911 starts playing around with it......

We're doing good here.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I'm very impressed with whats come out of it. I had no idea you guys would get this far haha.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

If that is indeed the case, maybe I could figure out some way to switch between the 1st gear and Drive versions at the track

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

That's pretty simple - stop the car, pull the shifter back into First, and race. When you're done, stop the car and put the shifter back into Drive, then drive normally. You could also switch back to "Normal" if you're done with the shift_fast for the day, so you have three choices at all times (when you stop).

If the constant 12 volts to the switch bank works like I think it will........

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Again I over analyze and confuse myself haha. Yeah, that technique would work. The 12v idea seems to make sense in theory. I really don't see why it WOULDN'T work

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Ok, well, mission failed for right now. I put in the 12v wiring and made sure everything tested as it should with a multimeter, at least on the wiring end (not the switches). Started the car up, put it in "race", and selected 1st gear with the car in 1st (to test it out that way first). Car accelerates, but bucks like CRAZY. It was almost like the car was going to shut off, but the tach read fairly steady and even idled ok. NO IDEA what the heck happened! I put it back in normal and drove it back down the street to my house and it drove fine.

So for now the 12v idea is still in progress, even though it's been installed. Tomorrow I'm going to go back and double-check all my connections and better isolate things with electrical tape (I was working at night, so limited light forced me to work quickly). Hopefully I'll get this working.

I can't explain the bucking, though. It was almost like it was trying to shift out of gear by itself but couldn't make up its mind.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

?? Weirdness ?? Yeah, triple-check the wiring - make sure you're not back-feeding the TCU A and B wires with 12 volts.

"No good deed goes unpunished", or in this case, "no good idea goes unpunished". I'd put things back as they were to cross-check yourself and do a quick test, trace the new wires to the switch to be sure, disconnect the TCU wires, and try it again in 1st gear and "Race" position. It's gotta work this way. Then put the tranny in 2nd gear, "Race", and try again.

If there is still something wrong, then we have a deeper problem, Houston....

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Okay i've been through hell with my tranny.

In short they sent the wrong one. They no longer have the tranny i ordered somehow. Wont give me my money back. Disputed the charges with the credit card company. So now they won't get their money back or the tranny.

I will prob install the shift fast today and see how it goes.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

That truly sux.... It sounds like they didn't really have a VLSD auto, and tried to bluff you into taking it anyway. Well, there's more out there.. one with your name on it....

Good lick with the shift_fast - if you have ANY questions, ask them here or PM me - I helped get you into this, so I'm here with what I know about it.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Yeah, I have no idea what I did there, but I have to take my center console apart again anyway, because now a wire must have come loose or something - my RPM switch is turned off, even with the car running. Weird. I must have knocked something loose last night working on the shift_fast I guess.

Either way, working on that last night with the center console apart, I have come to the realization that I have done some truly shoddy wiring work in the past. Tomorrow I'm taking everything apart and rewiring it back there. It truly is a complete mess. Then, I'm gonna work on rewiring the shift_fast to see what happened.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Ok, I ran into a whole new mess of problems over the last 2 days. Apparently I had been using my drop resistor's 12v wiring as my 12v source. I hadn't even realized (it's not something I had done intentionally). My cig. lighter also stopped getting 12v yesterday, for some reason. I can't explain it, but it doesn't get 12v anymore. So that meant my RPM switch wasn't turning on either. Plus, since my drop resistor was tied into that, I was running full line pressure all of yesterday too (luckily I didn't drive my car pretty much at all).

So at the moment I need to find a new key-ON 12v source for both my RPM switch and the shift_fast. Any suggestions?

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

Why not run a wire directly from battery to give you 12v?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Because then it would be on all the time and drain my battery. I'd have to hook it up to a switch.

i30krab

iTrader: (1)

Drop the dash panel by the steering wheel and wire into the ignition switch.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I use the switched 12 volts that runs the windshield wiper motor for my under-hood MSD 8969 that controls my MEVI. Right on the motor. ?? green wire ?? Check with a meter..

Probably a fuse for the lighter... Think it's in the under-dash panel. There's another bunch of fuses under the hood, on the driver's side, by the battery.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

That'll work as well - but I would insert an in-line fuse in there somewhere. That way, you can have an "accident" and your car will keep running. Maybe not the shift_fast, but your engine will keep ticking. "Fuse it or lose it" -

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I think I'm gonna replace the fuse near the steering wheel (if it's blown) and try that out. If it blows again, so be it, I've got a ton of fuses laying around and I'll just replace it and see what I can do about finding another source. Thanks for the suggestions, I may need them yet!

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Fuse was indeed blown, replaced it with a 20-amp. RPM switch is working again. I won't be re-installing the 12v wiring for the shift_fast again just yet, I need to keep my hands off things and let them be reliable until at least tuesday after I get back from my trip to VA for new year's

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Better safe than sorry, eh? Drive carefully....

When I was first installing the voltage booster for my ignition coils, I drove around for a while, then parked for a while near a busy street, but the car wouldn't start again! I had to call my wife to bring the pickup and tow me home (turns out she's good at that, too). I looked around under the hood and the fuse for that circuit was blown, so I upgraded it from a 10 amp to a 15 amp fuse. Ignition boost has been fine since.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Yeah, I'm pretty sure Nissan didn't anticipate the things we'd be doing with our A32's when they picked fuse sizes and stuff like that

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I drove with it once and it feels okay, little bit better than the vbmod already installed. I have not went WOT yet because I don't have a good enough feel for the switches. I put it in normal mode while the car was already driving, it went kinda crazy then haha. Nothing worked, cel came on and the car stayed in 3rd gear and just kept lockingup the tc. It was pretty interesting, the car wouldnt downshift and when i would go partial throttle it would lock up the tc at around 3500 rpms and just hang there while the speed increased rapidly. Felt like the cvt altima I test drove.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Yeah the tranny and TCU go nuts if you try to do anything other than pure race and pure normal. It's certainly interesting, though. I can't wait to get back to work on the 4th gear issue next week.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Crazy man....

You can go into Normal mode if you move the shift lever back into Drive first, then flip the switch. Otherwises, it can get real exciting...

Congratulations on getting it working. This should be good!

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

How are the downshifts with the shift fast? I need to practice using it so I dont mess up. I still need to drill a hole in the firewall so I can mount it and stuff. The stock holes I already used and they are full.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I'm going to suggest you don't downshift except at REALLY low speeds. I've been ok with downshifting below about 20 MPH, like, say, going through a turn. I wouldn't recommend it a whole lot, though, for reasons grey has already talked about. I'll let him fill in.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Downshifts? Think like it's a stick - when you downshift with the shift_fast, it just downshifts NOW - so you should have RPM room, otherwise you'll over-rev your engine. Not much forgiveness there...

I just drilled another firewall hole for my nitrous "Alaskan pipeline" and used a "close quarters" drill and a shorty step-bit to do it, and that combo made it very easy to punch another hole through the firewall, between the brake master cylinder and the driver's fenderwell. My drill is a Milwaukee, but I see that Harbor Freight sells one very similar to it.

Under the dash, it's up pretty high to the left of the steering column and there's limited space, but that drill and bit combo made it simple. The bit starts by making a small hole and makes a larger hole in small steps. You can brace the drill against the fenderwell inside the cabin so it doesn't twist away.

In that location, there is room for three or four 7/8" holes. I've got two now...

Mr. Blue Sky

iTrader: (1)

wow, I was thinking of trying this with my oldie. But there seems to be a lot of things that need to be done, and there is no guarantee it will work on my older transmission.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Nope - no guarantees, but you might dig into the FSM for a 95-99 Max and compare to your car's way of shifting the tranny - there may not be much difference.....

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

89 and up should be the same as ours but I don't know about any older. I am gonna look through some diagrams and see if I can make it shift into 4th and lock up the tc at the same time

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Well there's definitely a wire there for locking up the TC. I already took notice to that. Since you're using DPDT switches, just use that wire as the second "pole" so it does both functions at the same time.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

First we gotta get 4th gear.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Uggh. Maybe this week sometime I'll get around to it. I have just had too much stuff going on. I have the wiring done and sitting around, I just need a new 12v source still so I don't blow the cig. lighter fuse again (even though I put in a larger fuse, I'm not risking it).

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

?? normally, the TC doesn't lock up until 4th gear ?? Would there be any advantage to locking the TC in the lower gears while accelerating ?? My Edge TC has beefier clutches, but I don't think they are engaged until crusing, normally... Anyone have knowledge of how the TC clutches are used??

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

It would help extend the gears. With my extended revlimit I can finish the 1/4 mile in 2nd gear