All Motor All Motor Advanced Performance. Talk about Engine Swaps, Internal Engine work. Not your basic Y pipe and Intake Information.

It's almost race day....*veterans chime in*

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Old 11-27-2006, 08:34 PM
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It's almost race day....*veterans chime in*

So between going Turbo....+/-300whp/tq daily - 400 max
Or going 3.5 w/ headers and 75 wet shot direct port........capable of...?? A decent amount of power for good track times....and other fun.

On a budget of roughly $4000.00 --- what is your input on building a fast Maxima....
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Old 11-27-2006, 08:44 PM
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Could you list your current mods por favor.

If you were bone stock and had 4K, I would 3.5, headers, UDP, EU+WB02, tires+lightweight rims, some suspension to hold up for the launch.

Should easily be good for high 12-low 13
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Old 11-27-2006, 09:35 PM
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hes got ssr's already, find something that looks as good as that and is just as light...

i would do an 00vi swap, or a full dek-500 bucks roughly... then a build your own turbo kit.
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Old 11-27-2006, 09:58 PM
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if you can do the fab work yourself or you have a friend who will do it for peanuts then you could do a turbo setup for $4k. in my opinion any turbo setup you do for $4k that DOESN'T include a major hookup on the fab work is going to have corners cut and is probably going to be fraught with issues.
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:17 PM
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3.5 swap and keep the leftover for the tranny replacement when you blow a gear.
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ewuzh
3.5 swap and keep the leftover for the tranny replacement when you blow a gear.
Vouched, the 3.5 is just so strong... even if you did boost it later on Bijan, the 3.5 is a much better platform.
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
if you can do the fab work yourself or you have a friend who will do it for peanuts then you could do a turbo setup for $4k. in my opinion any turbo setup you do for $4k that DOESN'T include a major hookup on the fab work is going to have corners cut and is probably going to be fraught with issues.

i will 2nd that, although you can still build a decent kit if you get a hookup on the piping fab... still, 4k is doable...
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ewuzh
3.5 swap and keep the leftover for the tranny replacement when you blow a gear.

word........exactly what I was thinking
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:57 AM
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3.5's are notorious for shattering gears or is this an automatic transmission thing?
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:01 AM
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I would do a FULL 35swap with 6speed. And then mod it.
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I would do a FULL 35swap with 6speed. And then mod it.

Even better.

adfsdf
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:47 AM
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some1 in the 6th gen classifieds..vinceho23? or somethin totalled his max and is selling engine/6spd/axles/shift cables/ everything for like $2200? dont quote me on that but it is something around there. or you could look around for that to get a better price? that is the way I wanted to go if I went 3.5, keeping 3.5 timing stuff, ecu, and tranny for reliability purposes but I chose to go de-k instead to save some money and feel better about the reliability. I have also heard the 3.5's end up burning oil...
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Old 11-30-2006, 06:46 PM
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My personal opinion on making a 4th gen as fast as humainly possible NA, on low $$$$

So you have a 4000$ budget?

- RCI racing seats, 12 lbs each vs 50 lbs each for your stock seats, do the math - 150$ for both -
- Lightweight battery -25 lbs - 100$
(so 100lbs less already!)
- Other weight reduction - FREE
- Junkyard VQ35 - 600-800$
- Ebay JWT knockoff cams - Now 699$
- JWT Scacers + getting cams drilled for 3.5 swap - 'bout 150$
- OBX complete headers&Y-pipe on ebay - 380$
- Exhaust Cutout right after the headers - 200$
(so you can keep the rest of your exhaust stock)
- Greddy E-manage Ultimate - 550$ with everything
- A real clutch - 400$
- 4.47 ring and pinion from an early 90's Axxess vs your stock 3.82 - 150$
- 24.5x8.5 slicks (350$) on cheap 15X8 lightweight wheels (70$ each I know where)

Since 96Sleeper managed 273whp, I say with E-U mucho timing advance and cutout, this should be good for roughly 280whp, NA. I think someone could see 12.30's in perfect conditions with this setup as long as the race weight (driver and gas) is lowered to around 2800 lbs. That means the actual car would be in the low 2600's, which is doable because both Jime (auto) and Krismax (5-speed) have brought their cars down to mid to low 2500's dry.
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