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Oh how amazing, a larger MAF mod by Manny.. that yields an amazing
.00234 chp and .00000009 ft.lbs.tq. and we cant forget that throttle response (in reality its you sobering up every morning after you sleep with your best friend crown royal all night) :hide: (runs) |
Yeah my settings ranged from -11 to -7, and i put it to +5 all across the board, and it runs much better, but still not like it did with my stock maf and rough wb02 tune. Im just going to put in my stock maf until i can get it dyno tuned with the 3" maf. I dont really want to tune by 'feel' because that's not really the smartest thing to do. I sold my wb02 a month ago thinking that i'm done modding!
As to the idle question...my idle is very low and 'loopy' but that's because i dont have an IACV on my car, so obviously any airflow changes will affect the idle. The idle can be fixed very easily with the adjustment screw. |
So let me ask a question, this thread is very long so i haven't found this specific question. I have a stock 4thgen/3rdgen MAF which is maxed out at 10psi (5.0v), Will doing what 95blkmax did possibly allow me to increase boost and not max out the maf signal? basically getting the maf i have, and putting the sensor into a wider diameter pipe.
Reason being is that, I dont wanna spend the money for a z32 maf right now, so if this works. im all in. |
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10pounds |
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Will I be able to go above 10? |
10 character rule. Instead of putting "10chars" at the end of the post I put "10pounds". Doesn't really mean anything.
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Larger inner diameter = reduced velocity of the air passing over the hotwire element for a given volume of airflow. Lower velocity = less heat removed from the hotwire. This translates into less voltage required from the ECU to maintain the prescribed temperature of the hotwire, and less measured airflow info sent to the ECU. So the MAF can handle more CFM without maxing out, just like a Z32 MAF. The same principle is what causes cars to go lean with larger MAF housings and no a/f corrections.
:repost: ;) |
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Now, the z32 maf will not max out because of the calibration correct? because the VG maf i have in the car (which is from you 3rd then i think LOL) is physically the same exact size as the z32. So calibration for the z32 should be what allows it to accept more flow and not the size. correct? |
:sprint: Calibration is different.
Seems, form your post, that you've read this before. But if not, this is good reading re: Z32TTMAF Courtesy of I30tMikeD. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=459787 |
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I just wanna make sure that if i do this 3" maf rig, i can up the boost without maxing out the maf voltage. |
Yes, you can.
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oh crap. i dont have a press or access to one lol. doing by hand might be a difficult task, i might just use a low grit sand paper, its going to take all day to bore it like that lol
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Dremel is the tool that I used there |
A32 MAF =/ A33B MAF. Simplistics aside, the operation is much different. Meaning the A33B sensor is no where near the A32. BUT, 3" ID should prove to handle more boost. Anything after that(greater than) you may need another housing.
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Well i just finished my 3" pvc MAF, at idle it was rather lean. at 16.#, before it was in the 13's. The emanage has this feature that you can put the Before injector CC, and the After injector CC, and it gives you a ratio, it uses this ration to adjust your corrections, so that way you dont have to make changes on the corrections, only this injector ratio. So i played around with that till the idle was in the 13's or low 14's, I drove around. I "think" it feels more responsive and rev's a little quicker. I didnt go WOT yet because i didnt wanna get into too much boost, i wanna make sure the Epoxy is completely dry. I put a ziptie around the maf brain and the pipe to make sure underboost it dosnt come up n fly off the pipe lol.
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Use the EBs MAF correction features for the MAF correction instead of injector correction.
Set the hardware dial to the Q45 MAF and set the software to the A33/Z33 MAF. I don't remember exactly what those settings are. I'll have to look at mine to see. After you do that, be sure to monitor the Input and Output MAF voltages and you'll see the difference. |
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I didn't mean the 5 dials on the front.
Didn't you set the hardware settings of the Emanage when you installed it? You have to set the MAF input selector inside the EB. Your WOT settings may be close but the MAF change made your low and part throttle settings go to crap. |
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bump
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Do you have a question that you need answered?
Why the bump? |
I have a question. Been reading other threads also, but still looking for a solidified answer as to if someone found a properly working In/Out setting for the VAFC-II using the 82mm maf housing? Some direction would be great.
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As per the earlier discussion in this thread, I do not think it's possible to modify IN/OUT settings on the VAFC in this particular application. But it is still possible to get it to work. If you have a WBO2, w/ live readout, it is possible to 'raw' tune the AFR, albeit a bit more time consuming and semi frustrating. It is even possible to do so w/o a live AFR readout, but that will amplify the frustrating/time consuming part even more.
So, unless you can try every possible IN/OUT combination :nervous: :reading: + calculator = :grinno: amount of combinations. The time you spend trying to find the right combo, you could have gone out and bought a WB and have a semi decent street tune, and head to the dyno. |
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Also, you don't have to reply to my pm regarding the manifold, I found the answer I was looking for (searching and reading). Re-modding from not being in the game for sometime sucks. There's new stuff I missed from then till now, and seems like I have to start my search from scratch. O well, should be better this time around with more toys to play with. Thanks man. |
yeah i tried the 82mm MAF with the VAFCII, hard a hard time getting it to idle decent then it ran pig rich and it felt slower to me... so i ditched the VAFCII and grabbed a SAFCII, much much better now...
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it would be preferrable in fact
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I just re-read this thread, but am still a tad confused. Who has done this with an A32 MAF? It looks like everybody here has been doing it on the A33b MAF, but maybe I missed something. Would using the A32 MAF as a starting point change anything?
Will I encounter any problems trying to tune a SAFV/VAFC with a JWT ECU? I remember hearing once a while back that the two don't mix very well, but that might have been JWT mumbo-jumbo. I'm going a tad lean above 6000 anyways, so I could probably benefit from a VAFC even without the MAF mod. Is there a consensus for if the VAFC is better than the SAFC because of more correction points or vice versa because the VAFC doesn't work so well above 6000? I have a WB O2, but I don't think it does datalogging, if that matters. |
Read it again please. The answers are there.
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First, your links in posts 19, 62 and 64 are dead. Where were they supposed to go? I think some valuable info was lost when those links died. Could you tell me where they were going? 2. The VAFC can't do the conversion directly, and likely isn't worth the trouble. However, the SAFC has timing loss problems above 6000 rpm, but is still the best bet aside from EB/EU. The VAFC is much more difficult to use for this than a SAFC. 3. People have used the SAFC in addition to a TS ECU. I didn't see anyone use a JWT+SAFC, but I'll assume it's the same deal as the TS. 4. 95BLKMAX used a hacked A32 MAF instead of buying the Rover MAF (82 mm unit for $110). Same result, less money. So...is this correct? |
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http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=543975. If it doesn’t work, (i.e. single post link) I can go in and see what I linked and elaborate further when I have some more time. Quote:
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For clarification, the 00-03 MAF bolts right into the Rover housing. Not sure what you meant, but even in the case of the A33, we are still using the same Maxima MAF sensor we're just tossing it into a different housing. The settings calibrates the sensor for the added size (decreased flow) |
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