doublea

iTrader: (7)

I'm wondering if we can remove the swirl valve, and use a plate to block the hole ? Does any one think there will be gain or loss or maybe it's not possible for the car to run properly without this part ?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Not to be a bunghole, but this is the advanced forum area, so I will not spoon feed you, search. If you’re taking on such a project, and you’ve been here for that long, I would suggest you donate and search, It’s worth it.

mowgli29

iTrader: (21)

forum search > google search

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Thank you for this very positive answer this is really helping me, but next time dont answer I dont need that crap.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

. . . . .

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

hey bro, interesting thread. i am also starting an all-motor build so hopefully we can share some useful info (by share i mean you tell me). i have never done anything like this before, but hey... it's just nuts and bolts, right? don't know much about 00VI, but i think this might be what you are looking for: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=536022 what you got planned, or is it a secret?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

No, that is not it.

Hmm, vats dis?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=399626

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hey NmexMax, yesterday I didn't want to be rude or anything but I had one of those fockin day. I'm usually an extreme patient person but yesterday my pressure valve just blow. This morning I'm feeling great after my first good night of sleep in weeks.

Just so you know that I appreciate your contribution to this org.

So now that the mea culpa is done, let get back on the topic...

Unless someone is already making a vias cover plate for the 2k1, I'm probably going to make one in aluminum, but before I go for it I want to make sure I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel.

P.S: I will donate the org, I think that would be just a fair return after posting for all these years here. ( thanks for shaking the monkey cage...) Lol

AA

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Ok, so need for VIAS cover plate re: DEK = non applicable. Refer to the old thread in the link, and follow said 'dead' link instructions.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Sorry I couldn't get to the link. Is there any clear write up for this, I remember reading a long thread but thing where not that clear so I dunno.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Follow the dead link instructions.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys, I finally end-up tearing the engine apart during the christmas holidays. I've started to PP the head but my work for this aspect is not very much advance yet, since I had to renovate the bathroom in my house, man what a pita it was but it turn out very nice plus the wife is happy. Ok now concerning that engine, I got the cam and Stephen's max adaptor. I also ordered the HR spring, spring retainer and double shim form Dave B ( what a nice guy he his ) I received the parts couple of day later. I have a question concerning the VQ30DEK head, does anyone know what is the exact size of the valve seat ( the small tube into wich the valve slide ) I want to replace all of them but I need the exact size. I found few company who sell the tool to remove the valve seats but I'd like to get the advice of an org member who did this any suggestion is appreciate. I have plenty of pics but I just didn't had the time to upload them I'll post it here over the week-end.

What about this tool: Any idea ?

http://www.goodson.com/store/templat...php?IID=2455&&

DasYears

i think you mean the valve guide, just a guess since that is what the tube is that the valve slides through. not sure why you would want to replace them though. you should first check if theres any slop in them, and if you need to do anything, i would knurl them

nismology

iTrader: (8)

If the valve guide clearance is excessive the guide needs to be replaced. If that doesn't bring it back into spec the valve also needs to be replaced.

DasYears

it doesnt sound like hes actually checked anything, just seems to want to chuck some money at it. you need to check the valve guide and valve stem specs and compare to stock, replacing them if you havent determined they are bad would be entirely useless

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Agreed.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I just called David Burnett and he got me the answer.

The intake & exhaust valve guide can be ordered from him, the exhaust valve guide cost 17.92$ each and the intake valve guide cost 16.80$ each, the valve stem seals also need to be replace at 3.49$ each all in all that cost me 500$.

I already start to P&P the heads so after hitting the valve guide few time with the dies grinder stone, I came to the conclusion that the P&P job would be easier and better done if I remove the valve guide, also you dont want to put the old one back anyway.

I'm calling at goodson now so I'll let you know what tools need to be purchase if you want to DIY.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

$400 to replace valve guides that didn't need replacing to begin with. I could never justify that purchase, personally.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I just called at Goodson and man these guys know their stuff. Basically there is 2 type of tools that can be bought, a manual one that cost 25$ + whatever size guide you need but they have a complete kit that include and air tool + a few different size guide like 5-6-7mm etc. for 140$ with that kit you can remove the old one and put the new one.

The tech guy told me that a good way to do the valve guide effortless, what you need to do is put the brand new valve guide in the freezer for a day, then you have to heat the head to 250 degree F, this way the valve guide are very easy to install.

I'll find the correct part number and post a link later tonight since I got to run now.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Sorry but you are wrong, they need to be replace. I'm in a much better position than you to draw conclusion and at last how could you possibly know if they are good or not ? I dont recall seeing you in my garage. Lol

nismology

iTrader: (8)

You never mentioned that they were bad. If you did maybe I missed it.....?

spdfreak

doublea

iTrader: (7)

My bad, let me clarify, I see that one post I did never made it ( I mistakenly closed the window before posting the reply ) all my excuses, I didn't wanted to be rude or something. Basically while I was porting the chamber I hit the valve guide few time with the die grinder stone, so it came pretty obvious that it is almost impossible to port & polish the heads without touching the valve guide.

With all the money I'm putting on this car/engine build, 500$ is not going to kill me. I would hate myself if my engine were to blow because of a weaken valve guide that break down at high rpm.

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

try to see if you can post some pics.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

putting a few marks on the outside of the valve guides isn't a big deal. the valve moes on the inside of the guide and doesn't care what the outside looks like.
As long as you don't FUBAR the guides, then it doesn't matter much.

Looks at this pic of my VE heads after I got them back from the shop.. you can see where they have some marks on them, but it doesn't hurt anything..

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hi Matt, here is some pics but I'll take better one later today.




Here is a pic of my lower intake manifold P & P inside out.


The reason I'm seriously thinking of replacing the valve guide, on the VQ30DEK, the guide have a bit of different shape on the tips, and while I touched the tips with the die grinder I found out that the tips is weaker so I cant imagine a piece of metal flying when the engine spin at 7500 rpm.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I've measure the valve and it show 5.97 mm diameter so would you think that the valve guide is 6 mm cuz I have no way of measuring it, and I need to order this tool in order to remove the guide and finish the P & P jobs.

http://www.goodson.com/store/templat...bd33af6361517a

It is also possible to buy replacement valve guide for cheaper than Nissan, I'm looking at different alternative that can be found for like 5-7$ a pieces but I might also just find a set of VQ30DEK heads in good condition and transplant the valve guide, I'll see what's the best alternative.

Thanks for your feedback guys.

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

Someone is selling a set of DE-K heads in the 4 sale forum. Your doing a good job. You just using a die grinder for the P&P?

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Thanks man, I'm using small & medium size sanding drum on the 1/4' die grinder ( using 80 & 120 grid for most of the job ), the dremel is also very useful since there are area that are more difficult to access. I also have an assortment of cartridge roll wich are also useful but fade quickly. The best to start is to use the 80 grid stone with the die grinder that save a lot of cartridge roll and grinding time but you have to be very careful since it remove material quickly. For finishing the intake manifold and the heads I used some cross buff, it create a very nice smooth finish with swirl mark going in all direction. Apparently it is very efficient to create turbulence in the chamber but also smooth out the surface and prevent carbon build-up. I'll also be using black compound and buffing wheel to micro polish the exhaust port. I'll post pics from time to time as my work progress.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys, I found a local company that does really good valve job, their price are very affordable, I spoke with one the guy over the phone and I was really empress with the guy knowledge and formost the top notch digital equipment that they have to make a very precise job. I have set-up an appointment with them for friday morning, I'll bring both VQ30DEK heads and they will take a look at it and quote me for the jobs. Basically they charge around 350$ to do a 5 angle job on both on V6 heads, he also suggest that I may go with bigger valve since apparently a lot of power can be gain from that aspect alone, that may require to bore the valve chamber a little bit more but I'll have a better idea tomorrow morning. Just so you know these guy are making jobs for Nascar car and rally car as well as other high performance engine, I'm speech less as I was expecting to be much more expensive.

I'll give you some feedback tomorrow as well as pics as where I'm sitting with the port & polish jobs.

Cheers

AA

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Props man, nice work.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Thanks man, at first I was only thinking of doing a medium P&P jobs on the LIM/UIM/heads, but now that I have put so many hours on that build, I just cant ignore the valve jobs any more. With the price those guys are asking me it's a no brainer. I'm meeting with them tomorrow, so let's wait to see what they say once they see my VQ30DEK heads.

One thing I know is they have the best digital tooling of the industry, it's one of the tech at Goodson that gave me this company phone number when I told him I was from Mtl. he only had very good work and respect for them. The technician at AV&V also told me they have done so much flow bench test that they know exactly what to do in order to get the maximum out of the heads.

I just cant ignore having the valve jobs done by them for the 300-400$ price range he gave me, I mean that's nothing considering all the money I'm spending. Apparently big gain can be obtain by boring the valve seat and using bigger valve, I dont know how more costly that will be along with the bigger valve but it worth to give it a try. I'll let you guys know how it goes tomorrow.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

1mm valve oversize is something I've mentioned before, nobody listened it is a big gain my friend did it with his civic and it was amazing the difference it made

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I just took some measurement of a VQ30DEK intake valve and I got 1.425 just check with nissan spec and they say 1.417-1.429 in. or 36.00-36.30mm

I dont have a math phd but 1mm of boring on each of the 24 valve sound like a nice improvement but I want to see what they are going to tell me tomorrow.

Got to go crash now.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Have oversized valves ever been done on any non-serious project VQ before?

Comparing a Civic engine to a VQ30 is apples to oranges, IMO.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I'm not sure if I should laugh or take this as an insult ... I think just the amount of work I engaged myself to do prove that I'm as serious as this project, I'm not talking about the money, but if 20 000$ is telling you something than you should know I'm not joking or Bullchitting anyone.

No matter what, negative criticism is not going to stop me or have any effect at all on my project, I know once everything will be put together this car is going to shine.

Have a good one anyway.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

20k, Jesus.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I was comparing this to say, a major tuning company working on a 350Z.

$20k, though?! What the hell are you spending it all on? Surely the cost of the car is included in that at the very least...wow...

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

I was comparing a modification that is proven to give some major gains in power.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

I was comparing a modification that is proven to give some major gains in power.


I wish our cars would get parts like this made for us:

http://www.spswebpage.com/store/inde...ca38c589fbb00c