3.5 swap How can I eliminate the mid range dead spot?
 

help me out on this one fellas

Full swap or hybrid?

3.0 timing and ecu

Unmodified IM + window switch.

I dunno, not really. Still there.

My point is that it's a VE issue. Anything short of a different IM design or VTC's won't help that. I was saying it in case he had a modified IM or was running it with the power valve open full time.

power valve in upper intake manifold is out aka SSIM ??

To my knowledge, there's no real gain to simply removing the power valve. You might as well put it back in and get it working properly with a window switch.

okay, so does anyone have a working valve on here?
If I have a Vafc-2, that can control one switch and I would need another window switch to control the second switch as well?

Increase timing? JWT? AFPR + AFC? leave the VIAA closed all the time?

Timing won't change the shape of the torque curve. ;)

I have a AFPR and SAFC2 in there right now.

I would say these are different shapes. VQ30 though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...dyno041229.jpg

The general shape did change a bit but it is still recognizable. The hole in the powerband that is created by a inoperative 2k2 VI can not be erased with timing since the engine takes a major hit in VE. This is exacerbated by the fact that a stock 3.0 ECU's timing dips around the same RPM range. My point is that change in VE > change in timing with respects to an engine's power delivery. You can increase torque with timing, but that dip will be there relative to the rest of the powerband regardless.

I dunno, I have a working VI and gave a big :sprint: to everyones description in that other thread, and boy does the dip in power sure go along with the dip in timing shown on the graphs in that other thread.

Until someone advances the hell out of the timing in that flat range on a 4.5gen w/3.0 ecu :mrgone:

or just have a device that will throw a few PSI from just before that RPM range.. should help the VE issue :wall:.

But yea, needs timing advance (to at least 5.5gen levels), a working VI, and VCTCs.

Thread/case closed, nothing can be done w/ A32 software. :gotme:

shiiet, maybe next time Ill do full 3.5 swap......

It's never too late.

+1

And a '99 is the easiest A32 to convert to an A33B ECU. :nod:

To have a "next time", you would have had to do it the first time, not just buy the car from someone...

its in the 98....

wait, I know my friend's friend has an original 3.5 sitting in his garage....ohhhh, what else would i need, ecu and lots of patiance with rewiring?

3.5 swap
 

I need help, it wont let me post a new thread and im getting ready to start my swap. I just was wondering how everyone went about with the variable intake on the 03. Im using the ecu from my 97 and was just going to wire an rpm switch into it. Any other thoughts other than what is already in the stickys?

Like most people, I use a window switch so that I can have it function as normal (1800-3600) But I see no problems with using an rpm switch and just have it closed from 0-3600. I think there is speculation the only reason it is open from the factory from 0-1800 is to reduce the crazy low-end grunt of the 3.5, but I don't know. Setting it either way from 0-1800 made no difference for me :gotme:

swap
 

Ya i think ill just try the rpm switch for now, any other advice before i start the swap this weekend?

read the stickies. Most of the info u need is there. If you have any specific questions then, thats when you ask :)

swap
 

Believe me i have gotten as much info as i can from the stickys but its nice to see how other people have done it. Plus it still wont let me start a new thread to actually ask questions.

Yes, don't forget to use the 3.0 cam dowels..................

so just whore up mine, great....

LOL. goldtooth as much as I agree is the PW'ing going on, unfortunately there's nothing else that could be said for the original subject that hasnt been mentioned already.

However one thing I can add to it...

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...tVsPipeSAE.jpg

I too have that dead spot. I of course have 3.0 ECU, and a "treated IM". Timing advance will help, but only up to a point. In relation to the rest of the curve, yea you'll still have a dip in that region.

HOWEVER... If you get an EU and extend that redline to ~7100-7200, everytime you shift its going to land you just past the dead spot. Therefore, you'd only experience it in 1st gear. This is with racing though, street driving is another story.

Around the street, really the only thing you could do is have a functioning VI and be able to advance the timing to at least 5.5 gen midrange levels.

I have the same dead spot w/o a ssim mod, running the 3.0 ecu of course. By advancing timing you do mean w/ the consult II to about 17 degrees? Correct me if I am wrong 95blkmax, thanx in advance

No, he does not mean using the Consult II, it wont 'save' on the A32 ECU. I'm guessing he means MAF voltage manipulation.

Besides, the 17 degree timing is only base timing, right? Isn't that completely irrelevant at any engine speed basically higher than idle?

I know nothing about MAF voltage manipulation, took a break from this site to handle sum biz, so I gotta read up on it

It has actually been a couple of years, I’m pretty sure you just missed the thread. I think it's valid for this particular thread too, useful.
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=434821

Also, I get HORRENDOUS gas mileage. I lowered the fuel pressure down the 28 psi at idle.
I tried to tune it, but any adjustments I make on the SAFC2, there is no results on the A/F ratio graph a la laptop..... Im pretty sure the connections are all good, I'm getting readings from the sensors....any ideas?

Need moar info, you're not getting any data from said laptop? What's the software?

:sprint:

Also...do you have a wideband, or are you trying to tune with stock O2s?

Ya, goldtooth actually has taken my advice and has a WBO2, IIRC, Zietronix, and well, he's done well.