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Need Help with 6spd swap

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Old 01-03-2008, 06:17 PM
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Need Help with 6spd swap

I'm having trouble making room for the shift cables, because the black coil (with the white zip tie on it) in the following pictures keeps on getting in the way. Does anyone know what the coil is for and what I should do with it?



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Old 01-03-2008, 08:11 PM
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This is strictly from memory ...but: ABS motor? Not sure how to move it. I was first thinking it was part of the upper bleeder for the clutch. But the coil looks way too thick--it's got to be the ABS. Do you have ABS??

How much space do you need to free up?
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Old 01-03-2008, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SNOMAX
This is strictly from memory ...but: ABS motor? Not sure how to move it. I was first thinking it was part of the upper bleeder for the clutch. But the coil looks way too thick--it's got to be the ABS. Do you have ABS??

How much space do you need to free up?
I do have ABS and it does sit below the ABS actuator, but I have no clue what its for. In the 6spd swap thread, the OP's car had ABS but I don't see the coil in the pictures...FSM hasn't been really helpful either.

It'd be nice to free up all the space the coil occupies, because in the pictures above, the tranny isn't even jacked up all the way into place.
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:19 PM
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The coil is part of the clutch hydraulic circuit. It runs from the clutch piping connector on your left shock tower down to the connector joining the master and slave cylinders.

I suspect it provides a volume of hydraulic fluid to serve a dampening function. It also provides a means for bleeding the air out of the circuit above the level of the slave cylinder.

I removed all of the piping and ran a line straight from the master to the slave cylinder.
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by eng92
The coil is part of the clutch hydraulic circuit. It runs from the clutch piping connector on your left shock tower down to the connector joining the master and slave cylinders.

I suspect it provides a volume of hydraulic fluid to serve a dampening function. It also provides a means for bleeding the air out of the circuit above the level of the slave cylinder.

I removed all of the piping and ran a line straight from the master to the slave cylinder.
Ahh. Thanks a lot. Do you happen to remember what size fittings I'll need to go into the master and slave cylinders? Did you put together your own SS line, or did you buy one premade?

Also, do you remember if you had to remove the bracket that sits underneath the ABS actuator? It looks like it will clear, but I've been told that I need to remove it.

Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 01-04-2008, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by tsaulz
Ahh. Thanks a lot. Do you happen to remember what size fittings I'll need to go into the master and slave cylinders? Did you put together your own SS line, or did you buy one premade?.
I bought the hose assembly from AuToMaX_95.

Originally Posted by tsaulz
Also, do you remember if you had to remove the bracket that sits underneath the ABS actuator? It looks like it will clear, but I've been told that I need to remove it.

Thanks again for all your help.
The ABS manifold and bracket on my 98 are a little different than yours. I moved the entire ABS unit up and forward. Remember that entire shift control assembly moves up when yoiu push on the shift cable.
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Old 01-04-2008, 07:42 AM
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Brake Line Relocation

As with yours, mine does not have ABS. I twisted that coiled line (down and away) a bit and strapped/screwed it to the side. There is no hole available for you to screw, so I drilled a small one and just used a self-tapping screw on it. It's holding on fine and does not interfere with the shifter control assembly at all.

Here is the best pic I could find of it:




As an alternative, you could just shove that whole coil line up and away from the shifter control assembly. On this configuration, the reverse location (which yield the most upward movement) would just touch the coil. However, I felt it was to much in the way so I just reverted back to what is pictured on the first image.

Here is a pic of the "alternative" (and that ugly/heavy unmodified mount):





.
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Old 01-04-2008, 08:54 PM
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Here is a shot of my relocated ABS actuator.



I took the original ABS actuator/clutch piping brackets; separated them; flipped the bottom one upside down; trimmed both brackets a little and then welded them back together.

It is not real pretty, but it is rock solid.

All 6 brake lines had to be tweaked a little as the ABS actuator has been moved up about 2 inches.
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Old 01-05-2008, 11:22 AM
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eng-- That custom bracket actually looks pretty nice. However, I can't seem to get my ABS bracket off. There is one last 12mm bolt tucked underneath a gold box (part of the clutch line) that I cannot access. I've tried pulling the clutch line up out of the way (since I'll be replacing it with a SS line), but something is holding it in place. Do you remember if you accessed this bolt from above using extensions, or did you sneak a ratchet wrench in between the ABS bracket and the frame to get to it?
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Old 01-05-2008, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tsaulz
eng-- That custom bracket actually looks pretty nice. However, I can't seem to get my ABS bracket off. There is one last 12mm bolt tucked underneath a gold box (part of the clutch line) that I cannot access. I've tried pulling the clutch line up out of the way (since I'll be replacing it with a SS line), but something is holding it in place. Do you remember if you accessed this bolt from above using extensions, or did you sneak a ratchet wrench in between the ABS bracket and the frame to get to it?
Just got that damn bolt off! Had to use a swivel extension, 2 4 inch extensions, and a 10 inch. Now that the bracket is out of the way, I think I'll just zip tie the abs actuator to the master cylinder. Then I can go ahead an start putting everything back together.

I shouldn't have any problems running the car w/o a clutch (ie, w/o the hydraulics hooked up), should I? I'd like to get everything back together and running before I go back to school, but I won't get that SS clutch line in until a week after I have to leave.
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Old 01-11-2008, 04:14 PM
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That coil looks like the upper bleeder lines for the clutch. If that is the upper bleeder line you can take it out. Just unbolt it and put a bolt into the T splitter it comes out of. Only downside of taking it out is youre going to have to bleed out your lower bleeder more thoroughly to get all the air out.

Last edited by OHH NOES; 01-11-2008 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 01-11-2008, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Max0224
That coil looks like the upper bleeder lines for the clutch. If that is the upper bleeder line you can take it out. Just unbolt it and put a bolt into the T splitter it comes out of. Only downside of taking it out is youre going to have to bleed out your lower bleeder more thoroughly to get all the air out.
Thanks. I ended up pulling all the hard lines and I'm going to use a SS line running directly from the master to slave cylinder.
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