FULL 3.5 Swap questions about process and hardware
05-06-2008, 09:35 PM
#163
For future swappers reference, the coolant temp sending unit/ sensor is the one that has a spade connector. The ECTS is the one that is right next to it(on the '98 coolant log only)(not the 03, "it only has the ECTS since the ECU sends the temp output to the gauge so no need for the extra sensor" credit: Nismology)
05-06-2008, 09:37 PM
#164
For future swappers reference, if anyone is using Nismology's guage spreadsheet, he made it for a NON-ABS car. Therefore, you will have to go through the FSM to find the correct wires to wire up to the guage cluster.
05-06-2008, 09:38 PM
#165
05-08-2008, 02:02 PM
#167
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...44&postcount=7
I'm gunna go off this one. hehe
I run mine at 51psi. It should be made clear: using A33B ECU you'll need a static 51psi, don't connect a vacuum line to the FPR's reference port. Using A32 ECU, you'll need your FPR set up to the A32 specs (w/e that is, but it also needs the intake manifold hooked up to the FPR ref port).
Also, BTW my car had a crap-o eBay (prob fake) SARD FPR, and it could start even at 10 PSI. If you are getting 30~PSI, your car should start fine, as long as the fuel system is fully primed up, i.e. no air bubbles in it.
Also, BTW my car had a crap-o eBay (prob fake) SARD FPR, and it could start even at 10 PSI. If you are getting 30~PSI, your car should start fine, as long as the fuel system is fully primed up, i.e. no air bubbles in it.
I'm gunna go off this one. hehe
05-08-2008, 06:01 PM
#168
She's ALIVE!!
Idles very nice, but it BOGS like a ***** when I press the gas...any ideas? I'm thinking to try a different MAF sensor. Also the RPM guage needle is lagging, I think it has everything to do with the crankshaft position sensor, which I keep getting a code for.
There are 4 constantly recurring codes. I'll get them in a few minutes.
Idles very nice, but it BOGS like a ***** when I press the gas...any ideas? I'm thinking to try a different MAF sensor. Also the RPM guage needle is lagging, I think it has everything to do with the crankshaft position sensor, which I keep getting a code for.
There are 4 constantly recurring codes. I'll get them in a few minutes.
05-08-2008, 07:53 PM
#169
P0550 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit - because I don't have the connector plugged in yet because I'm waiting for the new sensor to come in. This was expected.
P1564 - Automatic Speed Control Device Steering Switch - I believe this is for the cruise control. I did not have any of the steering controls plugged in because the whole steering wheel was off. This was expected.
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
Does this have anything to do with idling? Or when I press the gas, the extreme bogging?
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
This directly affects the idle, right? Would having this positioned slightly off affect the RPMs when I press the gas; ie the bogging?
P1564 - Automatic Speed Control Device Steering Switch - I believe this is for the cruise control. I did not have any of the steering controls plugged in because the whole steering wheel was off. This was expected.
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
Does this have anything to do with idling? Or when I press the gas, the extreme bogging?
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
This directly affects the idle, right? Would having this positioned slightly off affect the RPMs when I press the gas; ie the bogging?
Last edited by goldtooth; 05-08-2008 at 07:58 PM.
05-09-2008, 05:35 AM
#173
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,204
What Nismology posted as well as your signal plate may not be correctly clocked. Scoping the cam and crank signals is the only way to tell though.
05-09-2008, 06:09 AM
#174
I just printed out the FSM diagnostics for the CPS and the IAT sensor. I will check them in a few minutes.
05-09-2008, 07:09 AM
#176
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,204
Do you have a straight on shot with the spacer installed? You cannot judge angle to within a few degrees from the one you posted.
Why so much weld? Did it pull the plate at all?
Pull out your cps. Visually check that the plate is in the centre of the sensor opening.. Have someone rotate the engine by hand and check to see how true it is.
Why so much weld? Did it pull the plate at all?
Pull out your cps. Visually check that the plate is in the centre of the sensor opening.. Have someone rotate the engine by hand and check to see how true it is.
05-09-2008, 02:17 PM
#177
Hmmm, seems like the throttle is more responsive without the CPS connected? lol...
Anyway, the signal plate is SLIGHTLY offset towards the tranny from the line that is formed from the meeting edge of the engine and tranny. Damn damn damn, I should have put on those washers under the spacer... It would have been perfectly dead center then...crap.
I checked the harness connecter as per FSM, everything checked out good. BUT, when I tried checking the sensor itself for resistance, I got nothing. There was no continuity between ANY og the pins. I tried every combination, everything yielded no results. You think it's a bad sensor? BTW, when I took the CPS out and disconnected it, there was no RPM readout, but that was expected. Any ideas on what to do next? Should I put the washers under the spacer and make the signal plate directly even on the implied line that is the meeting edge between the engine and tranny?
Anyway, the signal plate is SLIGHTLY offset towards the tranny from the line that is formed from the meeting edge of the engine and tranny. Damn damn damn, I should have put on those washers under the spacer... It would have been perfectly dead center then...crap.
I checked the harness connecter as per FSM, everything checked out good. BUT, when I tried checking the sensor itself for resistance, I got nothing. There was no continuity between ANY og the pins. I tried every combination, everything yielded no results. You think it's a bad sensor? BTW, when I took the CPS out and disconnected it, there was no RPM readout, but that was expected. Any ideas on what to do next? Should I put the washers under the spacer and make the signal plate directly even on the implied line that is the meeting edge between the engine and tranny?
Last edited by goldtooth; 05-09-2008 at 02:21 PM.
05-09-2008, 08:14 PM
#178
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,204
If you look at the symptom matrix in the FSM, the CPS is not even listed as a possible cause to your issue. It is listed only under hard starting or stalling.
Are you maintaining a constant fuel pressure?
Are you maintaining a constant fuel pressure?
05-09-2008, 10:54 PM
#179
I have set the fuel pressure at 51 psi. It stays constant.
I did try something today though, I will finish it tomorrow and report back if it fixed the problem. I have a good feeling it just might work!
I did try something today though, I will finish it tomorrow and report back if it fixed the problem. I have a good feeling it just might work!
05-12-2008, 05:25 PM
#183
Can I adapt the 3.0 flywheel to the 3.5 Automatic starter gear/ timing ring? Instead of making the spacer? Since the timing gear would then be perfectly aligned with the crank sensor. Only thing I'm wondering about is if there would be any clearance issues on the flywheel side...You think it would be alright if the whole flywheel/ starter gear/ timing ring assembly would sit a little closer towards the engine instead of the tranny side? I don't think it would cause a problem since the clutch would extend towards the flywheel anyway and it wouldn't be too short. Or what if it sat a bit more outward toward the tranny side instead? Any thoughts?
05-13-2008, 06:43 AM
#184
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,204
Can I adapt the 3.0 flywheel to the 3.5 Automatic starter gear/ timing ring? Instead of making the spacer? Since the timing gear would then be perfectly aligned with the crank sensor. Only thing I'm wondering about is if there would be any clearance issues on the flywheel side...You think it would be alright if the whole flywheel/ starter gear/ timing ring assembly would sit a little closer towards the engine instead of the tranny side? I don't think it would cause a problem since the clutch would extend towards the flywheel anyway and it wouldn't be too short. Or what if it sat a bit more outward toward the tranny side instead? Any thoughts?
BTW, the A33B-4AT signal plate will not adapt to the A32-5MT flywheel for the reason stated in post 112.
05-13-2008, 06:51 AM
#185
05-13-2008, 08:22 PM
#187
Can't help on the neutral switch, my car doesn't use the same setup.
05-13-2008, 09:56 PM
#188
The Backup/ Neutral switch I have in my 5 spd tranny has 1 black wire, 2 blue wires, and 1 blue with red strip.... Anyway I rigged it that I checked for continuity between the wires comming from the sensor when it was in reverse. Then by trial and error I found ground and power I think it was the one of the green wires and the orange wire I just completed the circuit, so now when it is in reverse the lamps turn on. I don't know or understand what the nuetral circuit is for or what it does functionality-wise. I did not hook it up.
05-13-2008, 10:20 PM
#189
If you get your ASCD working, you'll really want to at least connect the neutral wire to prevent a mishap. As for the ign, I wouldn't sweat it.
05-16-2008, 08:15 PM
#190
Update: I used the 3.5 starter gear with timing ring from an AUTO and drilled holes into the plate and bolted the flywheel. Only now the flywheel seems like it is offset towards the tranny side a bit like I figured, but I just put some washers between the starter and tranny so the starter wouldnt be spinning the whole time. So far the RPM readout is perfect. But I still have the bogging issue. After screwing around trying to isolate the problem, I will have to put all my tokens on the MAF. Plus I get P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input, which only supports it being a MAF issue even more.
But at least there is no more CEL for the Crank position sensor. whhheewww!
And as for the neutral switch, I will focus and read into that at a later time once the engine is fully operational. I want to figure it out.
But at least there is no more CEL for the Crank position sensor. whhheewww!
And as for the neutral switch, I will focus and read into that at a later time once the engine is fully operational. I want to figure it out.
Last edited by goldtooth; 05-16-2008 at 08:19 PM.
05-16-2008, 08:22 PM
#191
There are also either two yellow wires or two red wires that are connected to the ignition. I think I saw somewhere in the FSM that these were labeled as the - key switch. Any ideas what it does?
Try '98 FSM EL-237.
'02 EL-282
Try '98 FSM EL-237.
'02 EL-282
Last edited by goldtooth; 05-16-2008 at 08:32 PM.
05-19-2008, 07:38 PM
#194
When I have the '98 water temp wire(not the ECTS, the other one sensor that is right in front of it)(the one that runs to the back of the AC AUTO AMP) plugged in, the temp cluster guage does not work. But when it is NOT plugged in the guage works. 
Last edited by goldtooth; 05-19-2008 at 08:18 PM.
05-22-2008, 05:04 AM
#195
Ok, I got a new MAF, and it turns out I didn't know wtf the transistor or resistor,(w/e, it is that the IAT sensor uses) and I never had it on the first MAF I bought. I got a new one, and instantly seen that there was an extra wire on the side of the MAF, popped it in, and it revs like wasn't anyones business. 
Sooo happy. Now, I just have to redo the timing ring spacer once more, the final time... 
Can I use the hardware from a manual 6 spd '04 - 6th gen ? - for the 6spd swap, or does it have to be a 5.5gen (02/03)?
and bump for Post #194 as well
Sooo happy. Now, I just have to redo the timing ring spacer once more, the final time... Can I use the hardware from a manual 6 spd '04 - 6th gen ? - for the 6spd swap, or does it have to be a 5.5gen (02/03)?
and bump for Post #194 as well
05-22-2008, 01:10 PM
#197
05-24-2008, 02:24 PM
#200
1. When I have the '98 water temp wire(not the ECTS, the other one sensor that is right in front of it)(the one that runs to the back of the AC AUTO AMP) plugged in, the temp cluster guage does not work. But when it is NOT plugged in the guage works.
2. There are also either two yellow wires or two red wires that are connected to the ignition. I think I saw somewhere in the FSM that these were labeled as the - key switch. Any ideas what it does?
Try '98 FSM EL-237.
'02 EL-282
3. How is the wiring to the speedometer supposed to be hooked up? I cut off the connector that goes to the VSS on the tranny, and wired those two wires in a "Y" configuration that merges into a single wire that goes to the '02/03 guage cluster... does that sound right?
2. There are also either two yellow wires or two red wires that are connected to the ignition. I think I saw somewhere in the FSM that these were labeled as the - key switch. Any ideas what it does?
Try '98 FSM EL-237.
'02 EL-282
3. How is the wiring to the speedometer supposed to be hooked up? I cut off the connector that goes to the VSS on the tranny, and wired those two wires in a "Y" configuration that merges into a single wire that goes to the '02/03 guage cluster... does that sound right?