Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

LOL. I was only messing with you, but I do remember you saying something about the AC not being existing. Are you really planning on doing anything about that?

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Crap man. You made me waste my time to pull up the FSM and find the connector you're talking about just so I can answer your question.

Why do you need to have a dash fan in your car though?

As for my car, I removed the AC several years ago for weight reduction. I rarely used the AC anyway. The only time I wish I had it is when I am in really nice dress clothes on a hot and humid summer day. Plus, that racing seat with the vinyl cover really holds in a lot of heat on my back.

And no, I don't plan on doing anything about that. I may get a dash fan to help blow some cooler air though. I am trying to make the car as light as possible without sacrificing certain features that I can't live without, like music, cruise control, and heater.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

necessary things like music? :LOL:

pick up a deck and some 6x9s. mount the 6x9s in those cheapie truck boxes and stick 'em where the dash used to be (you should be able to easily fab up some brackets to bolt them to.)
Put quick connects or banana plugs on the back of the box... hell, you might even use a 1/4" TRS (headphone) plug like they do with pro audio for a quick disconnect..

Grab you an old skool pull-out radio or figure out a way to mount the radio so it is easy to remove. (mount it on a small plate and tie a 12V battery to the batt power lead with a diode so that you keep the radio station memory when the radio is off.

Then when you get to the track, you can just unbolt the speaker boxes and yank the head unit out and you've saved 15 lb.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Don't see why it would make any difference, the o2's will attempt to keep a/f at 14.7 in any closed loop situation.

Where you have to be careful is at WOT with headers closed and open, the a/f ratio changes dramatically and I use a separate map for open headers.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah, I could definitely do that. Thanks for the idea!

I just didn't know if the o2 sensors got such a bad reading with the open headers cause they are so close to the end of the exhaust flow.

IIRC, I run a tad leaner with my cutout open. Is that what happened to you with open headers? Where did you have your wideband installed when you ran open headers?

I am thinking of installing mine at the end of my Ypipe, which won't be there for my short trip to the exhaust shop. I probably won't get on the gas until I have my Ypipe and wideband installed.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Well they are a fair distance from the open exhaust ie over 24".

Definately leaner with the exhaust open.

My wideband is in my cutout (testpipe). I spent almost a whole day trying to get it up as high as i could so it wouldn't be visible unless you get on your knees. Got a DMH electric cutout after chucking the McCord which is a POS in comparison.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I am talking about true open headers. No Ypipe at all. On the stock manifolds, the opening is only about 2" from the sensors. But on the headers I am going to run, the o2 sensor is about 10" from the opening. So it may not be a problem.

Have you ever ran open headers?

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

The salvage yard screwed up the o2 sensor and I need a new connector/pigtail from a bad o2 sensor.

Does anybody have a connector and pigtail that looks like this?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

No.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Hey, I most likely have that connector, I have a complete 2004 maxima harness I am going to trash eventually (no one would probably buy that), I can cut it and give it to you.

93altima

iTrader: (5)

i had one but i trashed the 3.5 stock mani(s) sorry

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

It's not part of the harness. It's the connector on the o2 sensor itself. That's why I would prefer if it came off a known bad sensor.

Thanks anyway.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I guess you know the wires are ss and have to be crimped, unless you can remove the pins and just use the connector.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

What do you mean by "ss"?

I was originally going to remove the pins, but on this particular connector, it's nearly impossible to do it without busting it up. So I was thinking about just soldering the new connector on. It would be so much easier.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

SS=stainless steel. It can't be soldered, has to be crimped.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Oh yeah. I didn't even bother looking at the stranded wire material. Thanks.

I believe my o2 sensor is good from the salvage yard. I'll try butt splices and heat shrink first to see if that works. If it doesn't I'll just get another o2 sensor.

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

I have 2 3.5 02's laying around but I dont know how to test them. If you tell me how and they come out bad you can have it.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

You have to put a torch to it and make sure it reacts fast enough when you remove the flame and put it back on.

But, just in case my o2 sensors are dead, can I buy yours? The salvage yard not only damaged a couple wires, they bent the sensor itself. I haven't tested it yet though. But it wouldn't hurt for me to go ahead and buy a couple used o2 sensors just in case. What do you want for them?

eng92

iTrader: (3)

I had to extend the wires on both my upstream sensors to reach the bungs in the headers.

The lead/tin will not bond with the ss but I used silver and cranked up the heat on my iron. They have been fine for more than three years now.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah. It's not going to be a good bond, but use flux and get that iron really hot and it will stick a little bit.

Thanks.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I just bought another good used o2 sensor. Thanks for everyone's help.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Does anybody know where the ambient sensor is on the 5.5 gen? The FSM harness layout kind of looks like it may be in the fender well.

I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of these sensors so I can wire up this to my cluster. I've never had an ambient temperature gauge before! lol I like all this new technology stuff.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The ambient air temp sensor? It's at the bottom of the condensor, right hand side.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I put mine under the hood so I can monitor the temp. I don't like the IAT it doesn't appear to have any accuracy compared to the ambient one.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Thanks guys.

Jim, you wanted to monitor under hood temperatures? How much higher do you normally see it over the outside ambient temp?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Sometimes its 20+ over ambient. When you first put the fans on it raises even higher, then slowly reduces. I usually run my fans until I stage, then I turn them off.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Does anybody know about the height difference between the HR valve spring and the stock 02 VQ35DE?

The stock valve springs on my 02 Maxima engine are exactly .100" taller, almost an 1/8". Is this correct? I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking anything and that it won't be a problem.

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

That is correct. I noticed that too



This is when I was in the build. Left is the HR, right is the DE

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Ok thank you. I just didn't see anybody mentioning this on the org before back when SR20DEN was doing all the original testing.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I just finished assembling one of the heads last night with the two seats, HR springs and retainers. I will check valve lash before I install the heads though.

How many people run into valve clearance issues with new cams? Those new lifters are expensive!! Has anybody tried putting the valve stem to a grinder in order to remove a tiny bit of material? And I know you can swap buckets around as well.

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

I believe is your purchase them from JWT they include shims to correct this.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=448

I have not read through your setup so I am not sure how this affects you.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Aaron, that's why my heads are at a machine shop - besides the fun part of having new heads and cams to fit together, I don't have any HR valve lifters for those heads/cams. Once they determine the needed sizes, I still have to order a pile of them

However, this engine builder shop has a tool that they use that shaves the end of the valves if needed to fit the cams into the heads. They do this on all sorts of overhead cam motors, including Honduhs, so for them it's no big deal to get all the valve lashes set correctly.

Since you have a set of valve lifters, it would be mostly a labor charge if you can find a shop that does this.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Those shims that JWT offers are also known as "seats". I am referring to valve lash though. The seats just effect your installed spring height.

Yeah, I've been staying up on your thread. Aren't you able to use the lifters from your old heads on the Cosworth? I am just reusing all my stock lifters since I didn't change the heads, just ported them.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I understand what you're doing - what I was trying to say is that if you run into problems, try a local shop.

I can't use any old-style lifters with the Cosworth cams. Cosworth requires the "2007+ HR" valve lifters because of the high cam loading - that's in their literature and also a quote from the engineering group in California. Something about needing the special coating on the HR lifters....??? surprised me when I got the document with the cams, which verified what the SoCal group emailed me about.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Oh I see. I guess oil lubrication isn't enough. I didn't realize the HR lifters were much different. Can you tell a physical difference between the DE and HR lifters?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Nope - the HR lifters have a "high lubricity" whatever that means. Under the eyeball, they seem to have a grey-ish coating on top. I could photograph an HR and a 2005 lifter and post it - but all the HRs are at the shop right now.

???

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I see. If you have trouble telling the difference with the naked eye, a photo isn't necessary. I was just curious on the differences.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Well guys, I think I got a big problem!

To anybody that has ever installed a set of deluboz cams. Did you have any issues installing the intake sprocket on it? There is a tiny little alignment pin on the stock intake sprocket. That does not lined up to the hole that's in the intake cam. Both of my intake cams have that tiny hole slightly off, by less than an a millimeter.

I could just not use these cams, order some high dollar ones, or try to drill out the holes a tad larger, but I don't know if the intake sprocket needs this to help make sure it's centered, for balancing reasons or if it's just strictly used as an alignment pin.

Please post or PM me if you have ANY ideas or have heard of this before.

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

hey you didnt tell me they were off by less than a MM! I thought it was on the other side or something by the way you told me lol.

Remember that these intake cams ARE retarded by 2* from the manufacturer for better power up top (that may just be crank degrees, which would imply 4* at the cam, which may just account for them being off by "less than a mm" at the cam snout)

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

No, the camshafts are defective. The intake sprocket will not physically fit on the cam itself. The alignment hole is .030" too close to the center of the cam. So, there is no way for the alignment pin on the sprocket to fit in this hole.

Your are think it's a matter of degrees. It's not. If the sprocket would physically fit on the camshaft, then I wouldn't have much to worry about. It's just in the wrong spot.

So, I hope deluboz continues to show their top notch customer service and will help me come to a solution on Monday when they are back in the office. If not, I will have to return them as a defective set and get a different set of cams since they are no longer produced anymore.

More than likely, I will be able to modify the two intake camshafts. I have a local machinist that should be able to extend the hole by only 30 thousandths of an inch to allow the sprocket to fit on all the way. If I just enlarge the hole with a drill bit, that will cause a lot of slop and it may be possible for the sprocket to twist, even when it's torqued down properly. Regardless, it's going to cost at least $100 to have these cams modified properly.

It's just one thing after another with this build! It's just my luck that after a flawless success rate with these deluboz cams, that I get the only set in history that won't fit on the stock intake sprockets.