Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Thanks.

The problem I WAS having wasn't b/c of the SSIM. I am certain of that. It was something electronic reducing my power by 50-75hp. It was a serious reduction in power and when 4K came around, it's like you engaged a 75 shot, or more, of nitrous.

But after I reset the ECU, it went away and the car makes gobs of power below 4K (compared to my VE). Sure it makes tons more power above 4K. But it's a smooth increase in power, not a kick in the butt like flipping a nitrous switch. So my problem is completely solved. The things I'm still having issues with is getting my cruise control and my UTEC to work.

I can't wait to rev this engine to 7K. But I won't do that until I'm tuned properly. I'm still running mid 13s AFR and stock timing.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Gotcha. I guess I missed the "nitrous switch" description.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well his didn't seem to be, based on him saying the afr was still near-stoich even at WOT under 4k. i know that normally a car should be able to go openloop at WOT at lower RPMs also

so aaron, with your high-stall TC but on a more powerful engine, does that cause your stall speed to be higher? iirc it was 2900 on the ve right?

eng92

iTrader: (3)

Did you wire up your steering wheel controls with the resistor network like the 5.5G?

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I haven't tested stall speed yet. But I expect it to be a little higher with a stronger engine.

Yes, I am using a 5.5 steering wheel with the 5.5 cruise buttons. There are only two wires going to the ECM and they are now connected properly. Can anybody tell me what the cruise light does when you are going too slow to activate it?

eng92

iTrader: (3)

Oops, I forgot you swapped out the wheel as well. I have a couple of complete 5.5 columns in my garage. I should look at swapping one in as the heated wheel would come in handy up here in the winter.

I would say the blinking ASCD light is a result of not having the 5.5g tcm installed. I have been running an auto ecu in mine for a while now and it does the same thing. The cruise worked fine when I had the 6MT ecu installed but I lost one of the ignition outputs on that and an auto ecu was the only thing I could get at a moments notice.

I have another 6mt ecu but the key the wrecker sent with it does not match (NATS light stays on) so I will need to take it in to the dealer to get it programmed.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Oh. So you don't have cruise control right now? That is something I can't live without with the amount of road trips I take.

Jim said his was working. I don't know what he did. But he said the torque converter has to be locked up for the cruise to be set. I can't figure out how it's possible for the ECM to know whether the converter is locked or not. The Suprastick doesn't send any signals to the ECM.

What other signal can you think of that the ECM needs to see other than those two ACSD wires coming from the switch? I am not getting an ACSD brake switch code. I only got code 1564 (ACSD steering switch). But I fixed that problem and the code doesn't come back. I guess I can reset my ECM again.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

More pics:

eng92

iTrader: (3)

The only ASCD ecm input difference between AT and MT is the connection to the tcm via the CAN bus. I know at one point Jim had a 6MT ecu but I do not know whether he is using that or not.

My cruise works flawlessly with a 6MT ecm installed. With the auto ecu in there (nothing else changed) , the CRUISE light comes on but the SET light just blinks and the cruise does not work.

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

dang! Aaron all you have to do now is to polish off the rust at the top of the ABS spyder box, and put on a 3.5 engine cover, and it will look like the sucka belongs in there. It's super clean! very good job!

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Oh wow! I didn't know that! Jim is running a 6mt ECM?

For me, I get the two CAN codes since I don't have the 5.5 TCM connected. Do you think those CAN errors are preventing my cruise from working? If so, do you think there is anyway I could trick the ECM? If this IS the problem, I wonder if I can get my hands on a 5.5 TCM and connect just a couple CAN wires and those CAN codes will go away and allow the cruise to work.

Thanks!

eng92

iTrader: (3)

You will have to wait for Jim to chime in. He started with an auto ecu and was having a few issues (non ASCD related). He picked up a 6MT ecu to try but I don't think he had a matching key for it. He may never have actually used the 6mt one.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Ok thanks.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I just read that the ECM receives a CAN signal from the TCM from the Power Train Revolution Sensor in order for the ASCD to work. I don't think there is anyway to trick the ECM into receiving this signal since there is 0v for the CAN line and on top of that, I don't have a Power Train Rev Sensor, which is 240hz. I'm hoping Jim can remember what he did to get his ASCD to work. That is IF he has an automatic ECM.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

That could be the problem. I do have an automatic ecu but when I was having problems with getting the 100% throttle opening, I was talking to eng92 about it and I believe he suggested that it could be the ecu since his manual didn't have that problem.

So I bought a manual ecu and had it reprogrammed at the dealership for a case of bubbly and that is what I am using now.

That was before I had the ascd operational so not sure if it would have worked or not.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Oh ok thank you. I guess I'm on my own as far as getting this ASCD working on the automatic ECM.

What about your throttle opening problem? That wasn't ECU related, right? That was the ASCD brake switch only? How did you know your throttle wasn't opening 100%?

For some reason, my DynoScan Auterra software stopped reading throttle position. I don't know what the problem is. It reads everything else though.

Kgkeen101

iTrader: (4)

Sweet build

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Ya sounds like its not going to work with the auto ecu.

Yes the throttle problem was the brake switch and as I mentioned on the phone, I now have a switch on the power to the ascd brake switch as well as the regular brake switch. Its night and day on throttle response off the line with the ascd brake switch off and no brake lights at the track makes it look like I cross the line WOT for bracket racing. I am using Proscan an obdii scan tool to monitor the throttle opening, the UTEC only logs tps. It still doesn't indicate a full 100% opening, its somewhere in the 90's but much better than the 40% I get with the ascd brake switch connected. It is open 100% though even though it shows 90. I only found out what was causing the throttle opening problem by trial and error, disconnecting 1 wire at a time and trying it out.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

you guys should convert to cable driven TB's, something to consider, and save a few head aches.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

New video I made today:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=713uvTOHxCM

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Oh ok, so you can easily tell that the throttle plate doesn't open all the way simply b/c of your butt dyno? And you can tell on your software?

I will experiment with mine a little bit more and do a couple 3/4 throttle launches to see if there is any power difference on the launch below 4K. So if you just reach under the steering column and completely unplug the ACSD connector, that will solve it? There are two wires on that connector. It is ok to unplug the entire connector?

Do you have a way to do it? If I was cable driven, I'd be able to rig up my cruise control. But I can't think of an easy way to trick the 02 Maxima ECU into thinking it still has egas.

But I may have to get my hands on a 6mt ECU just to get my cruise working. Does anybody know a ballpark price for what the dealership may charge to link up a 6mt ECU with my NATS and Key? I would guess it would be around their normal diagnostic flat rate charge of $60-80. After showing a few techs this engine swap, I hope to get at least a discount. lol

Jime

iTrader: (10)

It was solved fairly easy. Much easier than trying to convert to cable. I would never go back, DBW is far superior, even in throttle response.

Sort of like comparing the antiquated manual trans with the quicker and faster auto trans.

Some people take a while to convince.

Don't confuse me with facts my minds made up.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Oh ok, so you can easily tell that the throttle plate doesn't open all the way simply b/c of your butt dyno? And you can tell on your software?

I don't have any faith in the butt dyno. I prop the throttle open and go and check the throttle open visually. That way I knew that when the Proscan said 90% it was actually 100. However the difference between 40% and 100% is easy to distinguish.[/quote]

Unplugging the connector will do it.

When I went to the dealership they were so convinced that I couldn't swap in a 3.5 with ECU they all came out to have a look. Case of beer later I had my 6mt ecu programmed.

You cannot switch back unless you get it reprogrammed though, cannot have 2 ecu's programmed to the same key and nats gizmo.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Ok that's good to know that I can't have two ECUs programmed to the same NATS/Key. Makes sense. I'm sure it's a gpolicy that they have to stick to.

I bet it's a good feeling showing your engine swap to a bunch of Nissan techs!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The thing is, the key ID never changes; it's a read-only value. I honestly don't see why you couldn't have multiple ECUs programmed to read the same keys.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I think the NATS module communicates with the ECU with just one wire, probably a data communications, so to use two ECUs with the same NATS module, you woulsd have to connect the NATS input for both ECUs to the same NATS wire - and if that's a two-way communication between the NATS and ECU, chances are small that two ECUs will play together nicely.

Or I'm completely wrong - wouldn't be the first time.....

.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

I didn't mean to imply using two ECUs at once, that's what you seemed to imply. There would be no issues with ECU-NATS/IMMU communication when swapping ECUs...I just wonder if maybe the IMMU module itself stores a hash of ECU and key IDs or something like that.

Actually that would make sense, otherwise you could just throw in an ECU you bring with you that's already programmed to a key that you bring as well, to hold next to the IMMU. Would make for relatively easy theft, for those determined enough to carry both to steal a Maxima.

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

drop the hammer

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well... since i already pointed out that tps signal is the same as the APP signal... if you had a cable throttle couldn't you just connect the TPS to the ECU in lieu of the e-gas pedal? that way, engaging your old 3gen cruise control system would appear to the ECU as though you were just modulating the gas pedal with your foot. and i guess just tape the 5.5gen throttle motor to the wirewall, connected, so it won't throw any codes. and then you'd have to reroute your cruise control wires to your old 3gen ascd box instead of the 5.5 ecu.

personally, if i did a 3.5 swap on my max, that's how i would go about it, because i just prefer cable-controlled throttles for the reason i was telling you about at RJ's shop. plus the cruise would be working already instead of the problem you're having to sort through.

niiiiice. i REALLY like the noise it makes at WOT! and that's the first time i've ever seen an a/t chirp a gear. one question tho... how come it stalled when you started it? that cuz of the nature of a cammed engine?

eng92

iTrader: (3)

The tps and app signals are not always the same in a dbw system. The app signal is where you want the throttle to be and the tps is where the ecu actually positions it.

Here is a post from a couple of years ago that shows the throttle opening changing with a constant pedal position

http://forums.maxima.org/4204728-post62.html

Personally, I like the dbw system. It makes for a much cleaner setup. No IAC valves, vacuum lines, cruise solenoids, etc. Also, you can place the TB anywhere you want (good for FI) and not have to worry about running a cable to it.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well i meant that idle-to-wot had the same output voltage range. so the ECU would see the cable'd TPS's output and assume it was the APP. and then you'd just have the DBW throttle hangin' around somewhere so the ECU was happy.

are fuel maps calculated based on the TPS on a dbw car, or is it still the MAF and MAP sensors that handle that?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Aaron the reason the cruise will not work unless the TC is locked is that when there is an increase in throttle to keep the car at the set speed the rpm rises unless the TC is locked. As soon as the ECU sees the rpm increase and no increase in speed it cuts it off. It will set, it just won't stay set. You are correct there is no connection between the trans and the ECU but the ECU can sense when the TC is not locked.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Oh yeah, that makes sense. My SS arrives tomorrow! Garrett is awesome! He put a rush on things just to help me out. Great guy to deal with! I will be posting more information about that later once my Suprastick is wired up and running as a full standalone. I may have to bug you with a few tiny questions though, but it all seems straight forward without those two extra shift solenoid wires being wired up since I won't have a TCM anymore.

And for some reason, my power restriction problem below 4K came back today! I reset the ECU and the car is a beast again. I wonder if it's KS related. But today, the power ABOVE 4K didn't feel that great either. But after the reset, it was its old self again.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

weird. have you done this yet?
3.5 KS grounding

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

I ran with a 75 Wet Shot for a while in the Max, so I know what you mean. Plan to spray a 125 shot when the new motor is in. That's gonna be sick. Are you spraying this motor, don't recall seeing if you were or were not going to be.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

If I don't reply immediately its because I'm gone to the track for the weekend, leaving fri aft and won't be back until sun night.

Going to run a 35 shot and aim for the 11.90 index class plus the 12.90 n/a. So going fri to try and get a UTEC map setup for each class.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

No I haven't looked into it yet.

I won't be spraying at MAXUS 09. I am concentrating on getting my car tuned and 100% ready for the All Motor Unlimited class at the Drag Showdown at MAXUS 09. I will probably start spraying in the Fall or Winter though. But, there is a LOT of fun to be had NA first. The car is fast enough right now and the tires spin all the way to 55-60mph! If I spray on street tires, then 2nd gear would be completely useless as well. lol

Ok thanks. I just got the SS in the mail this morning. All it came with is the unit itself with all the wires and the serial connector coming out of it. I'll have to dig up my serial to USB connector.

I turned up my fuel pressure and the injector ticking got way louder. The engine seems to get sluggish really easily after driving it. I know it had something to do with the ECU pulling timing or something. Any ideas? I will try to monitor timing again with my Auterra, but it's WAY too slow.

Dave, what did you do to get your software able to record ignition timing and rpm fast enough when you do a WOT run? I already have fast sampling activated. When I do a 2nd gear WOT pull, it shows the rpm as 1500rpm, then the next spot shows 4Krpm and the next shows me at idle cause I already lifted. And my 2nd gear WOT run was all the way to 5500rpm. I was hoping to get more plotted points than this.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

How many sensors are you trying to monitor at once?

Through the OBD-II port, the sampling rate per sensor seems to be fixed so the more sensors you try to log, the slower it gets.

I would get roughly 0.25 sec between samples if I just logged rpm and ignition timing.

Here is an example where I would typically get about 20-25 samples in a 2.5-6.5K WOT run (3rd gear on a 5MT)

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Oh ok thank you! You have DynoScan from Auterra as well, right? In the Live Data section, you can see the graph recording as you drive the car at the bottom. This graph can only do 2 sensors at once. But, there is a white section above that where you can add a LOT of sensors and readings. In that box, I must have about 10 different things it's reading such as, coolant temp, rpm, throttle position, IAT, timing advance, etc. Is that what's slowing me down?

I've only used this software for making dyno runs on the street. It's a tad slow on that as well and doesn't show the last several hundred rpm before you hit the rev limiter. So for my accurate dyno runs, I have to use a different piece of software which works on an OBDI as well, but is a PAIN to hook up on various cars.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

That is what I used for the graphs above. I was using the original Palm version at that time.

Yes, only log 2 parameters at a time.