3rd gen VQ35DE Full ECU Swap Progress Thread
#1362
16 volts baby!! or you could rig up a small electric motor to spin the alternator while warming up in the lanes and during your burnout.... shut it off during the pass and then flip it back on once you cross the line and keep it running until you get back to the pits.
Andy
Andy
But I want those 11s first though! Once we get the torque converter stuff done and I do a little tinkering on the engine to crack 300whp, 11s will be EASY. After that, I will slowly piece everything back together and possibly concentrate on building a serious 2009 Maxima engine! Possibly drop it into a 1800lb B13 chassis solely for drag racing! Can you say low 10s? ALL MOTOR!
Thanks! I appreciate all your support!
#1363
If your needing the extra voltage many rebuilders have converted delco cs130 alty's to run 1 wire with external adjustable regulators also there are also ford units that do the same but for a maxima i say look into the cs130 delco unit it has better compatability with mounting points
#1365
If your needing the extra voltage many rebuilders have converted delco cs130 alty's to run 1 wire with external adjustable regulators also there are also ford units that do the same but for a maxima i say look into the cs130 delco unit it has better compatability with mounting points
Thanks. I currently have a Z32 fuel filter (the giant 5/16" one) along with a Nismo AFPR meant for an SR20DET. It bolts right to the VQ35 fuel rail after opening up the stock bolt holes on the AFPR. That's how I'm controlling my pressure.
#1369
Thank you! I'm sorry that I don't have any updates right now. The car is just sitting in the shop. I crank it up every now and then to make sure the engine stays healthy. The GTR injectors needs to be installed and UTEC retuned before I hit the track again to get some base numbers since it's been so long since I ran the 1/4 mile in this car. Then, I'll have some good times to compare to when I install the 4K+ stall Edge Racing Torque Converter prototype that's sitting on the shelf!
I really want to get this car back out on the track. But I've spent every waking moment trying to get this new NWP product released for the VQ35DE engine. Testing is complete and the HP gains are impressive! The product will fit on the following vehicles:
03-06 350z
03-07 G35 Coupe
03-06 G35 Sedan
02-08 Maxima
02-06 Altima 3.5L
02-04 I35
03-07 Murano
04-09 Quest
We hope to have the product released within the next couple weeks!
I really want to get this car back out on the track. But I've spent every waking moment trying to get this new NWP product released for the VQ35DE engine. Testing is complete and the HP gains are impressive! The product will fit on the following vehicles:
03-06 350z
03-07 G35 Coupe
03-06 G35 Sedan
02-08 Maxima
02-06 Altima 3.5L
02-04 I35
03-07 Murano
04-09 Quest
We hope to have the product released within the next couple weeks!
#1371
We didn't specifically test on a 4th gen Maxima VQ35 with 3.0 timing, but the gains will be the same or almost identical to the near stock 03 Maxima automatic we tested. A RWD VQ35DE 350z/G35 and my 92 Maxima VQ35 full ECU swap was also thoroughly put to the test!
#1372
I'm getting anxious now...
Last edited by Fakie J Farkerton; 06-24-2013 at 10:55 AM.
#1373
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ming-soon.html
#1380
Sorry for the late response. I didn't see this until now. No, the prototype Edge Racing converter is just sitting in the shop waiting to be installed.
I've been working on my Maxima some lately. The R35 GTR injectors have been installed for several weeks now, but I just got around to tuning them this week. I now have a rough tune with a 13.0:1 AFR. I still left it on the rich side after 6K rpm though. My injector duty cycle is now as high as 60-65% at 12:1 AFR at 7K rpm in the top of 2nd gear. I won't top out 3rd gear until I visit the track to do some more tuning.
I may need to change my oil before I race the engine any more though. I'm waiting on some Used Oil Analysis results of the 0w30 Amsoil Signature Series oil I'm currently using. It's expensive stuff. So I don't want to drain it when it's still in perfect condition. I'll probably switch to regular conventional oil on my next oil change and just change it often. The engine sees 7K rpm every single time it's on.
Also, I have a spare power steering rack that I got out of my 92 Maxima parts car. I am going to convert it over to full manual. I don't feel like bothering with rigging up an expensive manual rack when I have a stock rack ready to go. Just cut the seals out of it and make sure there's plenty of grease in it and cap the lines.
Once the new rack goes in and I get an alignment, I should be ready to hit up the track. I want to get some base runs since it's been a couple years since my last timeslips. Then, I will install the new converter and be able to compare them to the latest timeslips.
Also, on a side note, for the very first time, I'm proud to say that my car actually made my passenger puke after a few wide open throttle pulls!
#1381
I recently got my Used Oil Analysis (UOA) results back. My Maxima has been sitting for the past few years with very little run time. My last track visit was on 10/29/2010!!
I just cranked it up every month or so and tried to keep the engine in good working order. A sitting engine is not a happy one!
So the oil that I sent off for testing has been sitting in this engine for 3.5 years! But, it only had 2000 miles on it and it is very expensive Amsoil 0w30 oil! I didn't want to change it when it's still in good shape. Plus, I needed to check on the condition of the engine and see if any abrasive materials have increased since my last UOA.
Simply put, the oil is in great shape! No water or high content of metals. The viscosity was a hair bit low, but it's plenty good to continue using for at least another 750-1000 miles. I'll probably change it after that. The silicon was higher than normal, though, indicating the effects of racing sometimes without an air filter.
Also, I finished converting my power steering rack over to manual by removing the main seal, applying plenty of bearing grease, and plugging the lines. Now it's ready to install. I'll just swap over the good outer tie rod ends and boots from the race car and install. I also ordered new rack insulators (mounts).
I just cranked it up every month or so and tried to keep the engine in good working order. A sitting engine is not a happy one!
So the oil that I sent off for testing has been sitting in this engine for 3.5 years! But, it only had 2000 miles on it and it is very expensive Amsoil 0w30 oil! I didn't want to change it when it's still in good shape. Plus, I needed to check on the condition of the engine and see if any abrasive materials have increased since my last UOA.
Simply put, the oil is in great shape! No water or high content of metals. The viscosity was a hair bit low, but it's plenty good to continue using for at least another 750-1000 miles. I'll probably change it after that. The silicon was higher than normal, though, indicating the effects of racing sometimes without an air filter.
Also, I finished converting my power steering rack over to manual by removing the main seal, applying plenty of bearing grease, and plugging the lines. Now it's ready to install. I'll just swap over the good outer tie rod ends and boots from the race car and install. I also ordered new rack insulators (mounts).
#1382
I had a chance to install the newly converted manual steering rack into my Maxima. Everything went smooth. I finally removed the pump, reservoir, cooler, lines, hoses, brackets, etc. I shaved 14 lbs. And the engine bay looks a lot cleaner!
All this time, I have been driving the car without a PS belt. So, it's not easy fighting the fluid pressure. Now that the rack seal is cut out, the steering is a LOT easier and a lot smoother!
Locked steering wheel:
Rack ready to install:
All this time, I have been driving the car without a PS belt. So, it's not easy fighting the fluid pressure. Now that the rack seal is cut out, the steering is a LOT easier and a lot smoother!
Locked steering wheel:
Rack ready to install:
#1383
I had a chance to install the newly converted manual steering rack into my Maxima. Everything went smooth. I finally removed the pump, reservoir, cooler, lines, hoses, brackets, etc. I shaved 14 lbs. And the engine bay looks a lot cleaner! All this time, I have been driving the car without a PS belt. So, it's not easy fighting the fluid pressure. Now that the rack seal is cut out, the steering is a LOT easier and a lot smoother! Locked steering wheel: Rack ready to install:
#1385
#1387
Then, use your Factory Service Manual to fill in the blanks such as torque specs. Also, you will need to drill out a stake before trying to remove the main end nut. The FSM tells you what size drill bit you need. Without drilling out the stake, you will damage all the threads on the aluminum end nut.
Also, here is another good write up: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ring-Rack.aspx
As far as the "slop" that MotoIQ noticed, I didn't notice any of that play in the stock 92 Maxima rack. So I didn't bother with any welding.
#1388
Here is a write up that pretty much explains it all: http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1 Then, use your Factory Service Manual to fill in the blanks such as torque specs. Also, you will need to drill out a stake before trying to remove the main end nut. The FSM tells you what size drill bit you need. Without drilling out the stake, you will damage all the threads on the aluminum end nut. Also, here is another good write up: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ring-Rack.aspx As far as the "slop" that MotoIQ noticed, I didn't notice any of that play in the stock 92 Maxima rack. So I didn't bother with any welding.
Thanks!!
#1389
Hey Aaron, I hope all is well... I just went true the entire thread, man what journey !
I can only congrats you for all that hard works. I hope to have more time in the near futur to work out the kinks on my own car ( which has been sitting in the garage for almost 7 years now) I can hardly believe this myself, but sometime life take an unexpected turn and you got to deal with it. Any 75mm TB expected for the 2k1 ?
Cheers
AA
I can only congrats you for all that hard works. I hope to have more time in the near futur to work out the kinks on my own car ( which has been sitting in the garage for almost 7 years now) I can hardly believe this myself, but sometime life take an unexpected turn and you got to deal with it. Any 75mm TB expected for the 2k1 ?
Cheers
AA
#1390
Hey Aaron, I hope all is well... I just went true the entire thread, man what journey !
I can only congrats you for all that hard works. I hope to have more time in the near futur to work out the kinks on my own car ( which has been sitting in the garage for almost 7 years now) I can hardly believe this myself, but sometime life take an unexpected turn and you got to deal with it. Any 75mm TB expected for the 2k1 ?
Cheers
AA
I can only congrats you for all that hard works. I hope to have more time in the near futur to work out the kinks on my own car ( which has been sitting in the garage for almost 7 years now) I can hardly believe this myself, but sometime life take an unexpected turn and you got to deal with it. Any 75mm TB expected for the 2k1 ?
Cheers
AA
I have no idea what kind of 1/4 mile times my car will do. Since I ran the 12.04, I have done a lot of tuning, installed R35 GTR injectors, larger fuel pump, manual steering rack (less weight), 3.25" ID MAF housing, and NWP Engineering 75mm Big Bore Throttle Body Kit. But I still have more tuning to do to get back to where I was 3 years ago. I should be able to fine tune the AFR a bit further this Thursday.
But the weather isn't going to be nearly as good as when I ran the 12.04. So if I run at least 12.3s, that means I am in good shape to run 11s really soon when the weather gets cooler, especially with the new torque converter. We'll see.
Who wants to come out to Kinston, NC this Thursday night and race with me?
#1391
Here is a pic of when I recently matched the NWP 75mm Big Bore Throttle Body Adapter Plate to my already ported Elbow:
And yesterday, I went and got an alignment to make sure everything is nice and straight after replacing my steering rack with the converted manual unit. During the alignment, I jack up the front end by 1" to mimic a launch and make sure the camber was as close to zero as possible. The camber didn't change by more than .3-.4 degrees with only a 1" raise. But if it raised by more than that, the camber went way out of spec positive. But it was nice to know exactly what happens to the camber when the front end rises on the launch.
And yesterday, I went and got an alignment to make sure everything is nice and straight after replacing my steering rack with the converted manual unit. During the alignment, I jack up the front end by 1" to mimic a launch and make sure the camber was as close to zero as possible. The camber didn't change by more than .3-.4 degrees with only a 1" raise. But if it raised by more than that, the camber went way out of spec positive. But it was nice to know exactly what happens to the camber when the front end rises on the launch.
#1395
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
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Posts: 1,096
How would you say that this type of build differs in terms of power production and delivery compared to FI builds and which would be better for daily driving performance and road courses?
Also, since you fit your original VE auto trans to the VQ is it somehow possible to fit a 6-speed VQ trans to a VE or VG? Thanks, and congrats on all your progress and success!
Also, since you fit your original VE auto trans to the VQ is it somehow possible to fit a 6-speed VQ trans to a VE or VG? Thanks, and congrats on all your progress and success!
#1396
How would you say that this type of build differs in terms of power production and delivery compared to FI builds and which would be better for daily driving performance and road courses?
Also, since you fit your original VE auto trans to the VQ is it somehow possible to fit a 6-speed VQ trans to a VE or VG? Thanks, and congrats on all your progress and success!
Also, since you fit your original VE auto trans to the VQ is it somehow possible to fit a 6-speed VQ trans to a VE or VG? Thanks, and congrats on all your progress and success!
If I was turbocharged and making a little bit more power, it would be harder to keep traction with street tires. I think my naturally aspirated engine is more predictable than a turbo'd VQ35 when it comes to judging when the tires are about to break loose.
If you are interested in road course racing, then I'd contact Joe Ippolito at 2J Racing in GA. We sponsor his NA VQ35DE powered B15 Sentra and it's extremely fast around the track. Contact him and see what he thinks.
And I got my original 1992 RE4F04V transmission to fit with the VQ engine by swapping torque converter housings from a 4th gen Maxima RE4F04A tranny. It may be possible to get a VQ 6spd tranny to mate to a VE/VG. But you may have to have an adapter plate machined. I don't know if you will be able to swap bellhousings.
I was really fortunate when I figured out that the VQ tranny TC housing matches up perfectly to the older VE trans. It made my life a whole lot easier.
#1398
And I got my original 1992 RE4F04V transmission to fit with the VQ engine by swapping torque converter housings from a 4th gen Maxima RE4F04A tranny. It may be possible to get a VQ 6spd tranny to mate to a VE/VG. But you may have to have an adapter plate machined. I don't know if you will be able to swap bellhousings.
I was really fortunate when I figured out that the VQ tranny TC housing matches up perfectly to the older VE trans. It made my life a whole lot easier.
#1399
Well, we had a pretty interesting night. On my very first pass, the car dead hooked with a 1.81 60' (new record). But the track only recorded the 1/8 mile time and not the 1/4! I ran a 7.73 @ 89.4mph (new record) which would have been good for an 11.99 or so. Too bad that my transmission popped just after the pass was completed. I lost 1st and 2nd gear and reverse. If it wasn't for that, it would have been easy to run high 11s tonight.