grey99max building another 3.5
#81
Awesome work, I dont know how I missed this thread ? Maybe I was too buys searching for the X5 lol. Again great work & pics, this is going to be an incredible VQ35, what kind of power do you think this engine will output ?
#82
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Power? 500WHP should be easy - then I'll take it up slowly until I see signs of problems. The short block can handle at least 1000 crank HP - but I bet that the drive train won't. My personal goal is 600WHP on nitrous. At the moment my present engine is set for 405WHP and it seems to handle that with no problems, and that's a stock short block and heads - just eBay cams and 175-shot of nitrous.
There's a lot of engine builds going on right now - should be an exciting summer.
#83
I hope you can find a truck and trailer and bring that car to MAXUS. I am pressed for time myself. I need to get this car running within the next couple months so I will have a little time to tune it with the UTEC. I may not have enough time to tune it for anything more than the 75 shot.
#85
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I don't think so. Four days and 2400 miles of towing my car (7 1/2 MPG) just wouldn't be much fun - just really expensive - and with my usual luck it will either rain on track day or I'll only get one pass before someone scatters their engine down the track and the lines get so long that the track closes before I get in a second pass.
Sounds negative? this happens to me all the time on tracks around here. I tow 180 miles and get one pass, or the management decides to invent a new Bracket class of street cars, throws all the cars off the track, and tries for two hours to scrape up 16 cars to fill in the new formula and most trailered cars start leaving when this madness started - oh, wait, that was last weekend at KCIR.
I figure you'll have a few monsters show up and the rest of the 100-car field will be Y-pipe and CAI cars. But that's just me.... Besides, I've got an engine to build, axles and transmission to upgrade, and another nitrous stage to integrate.
Sounds negative? this happens to me all the time on tracks around here. I tow 180 miles and get one pass, or the management decides to invent a new Bracket class of street cars, throws all the cars off the track, and tries for two hours to scrape up 16 cars to fill in the new formula and most trailered cars start leaving when this madness started - oh, wait, that was last weekend at KCIR.
I figure you'll have a few monsters show up and the rest of the 100-car field will be Y-pipe and CAI cars. But that's just me.... Besides, I've got an engine to build, axles and transmission to upgrade, and another nitrous stage to integrate.
Last edited by grey99max; 03-30-2009 at 06:52 PM.
#86
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I don't think so. Four days and 2400 miles of towing my car just wouldn't be much fun - just really expensive - and with my usual luck it will either rain on track day or I'll only get one pass before someone scatters their engine down the track and the lines get so long that the track closes before I get in a second pass.
Sounds negative? this happens to me all the time on tracks around here. I tow 180 miles and get one pass, or the management decides to invent a new Bracket class of street cars, throws all the cars off the track, and tries for two hours to scrape up 16 cars to fill in the new formula and most trailered cars start leaving when this madness started - oh, wait, that was last weekend at KCIR.
I figure you'll have a few monsters show up and the rest of the 100-car field will be Y-pipe and CAI cars. But that's just me.... Besides, I've got an engine to build, axles and transmission to upgrade, and another nitrous stage to integrate.
Sounds negative? this happens to me all the time on tracks around here. I tow 180 miles and get one pass, or the management decides to invent a new Bracket class of street cars, throws all the cars off the track, and tries for two hours to scrape up 16 cars to fill in the new formula and most trailered cars start leaving when this madness started - oh, wait, that was last weekend at KCIR.
I figure you'll have a few monsters show up and the rest of the 100-car field will be Y-pipe and CAI cars. But that's just me.... Besides, I've got an engine to build, axles and transmission to upgrade, and another nitrous stage to integrate.
We will just have to be happy to see the pics and video.
#87
I don't think so. Four days and 2400 miles of towing my car (7 1/2 MPG) just wouldn't be much fun - just really expensive - and with my usual luck it will either rain on track day or I'll only get one pass before someone scatters their engine down the track and the lines get so long that the track closes before I get in a second pass.
Sounds negative? this happens to me all the time on tracks around here. I tow 180 miles and get one pass, or the management decides to invent a new Bracket class of street cars, throws all the cars off the track, and tries for two hours to scrape up 16 cars to fill in the new formula and most trailered cars start leaving when this madness started - oh, wait, that was last weekend at KCIR.
I figure you'll have a few monsters show up and the rest of the 100-car field will be Y-pipe and CAI cars. But that's just me.... Besides, I've got an engine to build, axles and transmission to upgrade, and another nitrous stage to integrate.
Sounds negative? this happens to me all the time on tracks around here. I tow 180 miles and get one pass, or the management decides to invent a new Bracket class of street cars, throws all the cars off the track, and tries for two hours to scrape up 16 cars to fill in the new formula and most trailered cars start leaving when this madness started - oh, wait, that was last weekend at KCIR.
I figure you'll have a few monsters show up and the rest of the 100-car field will be Y-pipe and CAI cars. But that's just me.... Besides, I've got an engine to build, axles and transmission to upgrade, and another nitrous stage to integrate.
I'm with you Harold. I was planning on going when I heard initially it was being held on the 20-21 Jun weekend. However I have a big race on the 27-28 and its a pretty expensive long haul to Washington, especially having to trailer the car.
We will just have to be happy to see the pics and video.
We will just have to be happy to see the pics and video.
We will also be inviting select groups of Nissans to race. We are hoping to get some really fast Zs and Skylines out there to compete.
And we are also working on getting some bigger sponsors to actually have prize money for the winners.
But I'm sorry to hear about your scheduling conflict Jim. I was really looking forward to having you come out and show some of these Maximas how it's done!
#88
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Maxus 09
Aaron, you're doing a heck of a job organizing this year's Maxus, but it's too far away for me to tow that far - then back home again. It's just me driving in the truck cab - nobody else in Kansas knows what a Maxima is.
So, have fun - enjoy the event - hope some monsters show up and set new records for everyone to see and envy, and I'll continue building up the Land Shark for my own amusement...
So, have fun - enjoy the event - hope some monsters show up and set new records for everyone to see and envy, and I'll continue building up the Land Shark for my own amusement...
#89
Aaron, you're doing a heck of a job organizing this year's Maxus, but it's too far away for me to tow that far - then back home again. It's just me driving in the truck cab - nobody else in Kansas knows what a Maxima is.
So, have fun - enjoy the event - hope some monsters show up and set new records for everyone to see and envy, and I'll continue building up the Land Shark for my own amusement...
So, have fun - enjoy the event - hope some monsters show up and set new records for everyone to see and envy, and I'll continue building up the Land Shark for my own amusement...
#90
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Back to my build again...
I'm still waiting for parts, it seems, so I decided to open up the water ports into each bank, following the JWT recommendiation for how best to use the HR head gasket.
Both sides before:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0791.jpg
Decided to use grandkid's modeling clay to fill in around the cylinder:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0796.jpg
Taped up each front cylinder and taped down shop cloths over the rear cylinders:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0794.jpg
I used those two small Dremel cutters to take out some of the wall.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0805.jpg
Clay strips after cutting was done:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0802.jpg
Took a shop vac to everything before and after the clay strips were removed, peeled off the tape and rags, vacuumed some more..
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0806.jpg
.
I'm still waiting for parts, it seems, so I decided to open up the water ports into each bank, following the JWT recommendiation for how best to use the HR head gasket.
Both sides before:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0791.jpg
Decided to use grandkid's modeling clay to fill in around the cylinder:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0796.jpg
Taped up each front cylinder and taped down shop cloths over the rear cylinders:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0794.jpg
I used those two small Dremel cutters to take out some of the wall.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0805.jpg
Clay strips after cutting was done:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0802.jpg
Took a shop vac to everything before and after the clay strips were removed, peeled off the tape and rags, vacuumed some more..
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9/DSCN0806.jpg
.
#91
Looks great! Thanks for posting pics. I see you posted this message in my 3rd gen swap thread.
I like the clay idea though. So you think you were able to keep all the shavings from getting in the coolant areas?
I like the clay idea though. So you think you were able to keep all the shavings from getting in the coolant areas?
#92
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The clay and Gorilla tape made it quite easy to keep shavings from going everywhere. Grind everything - vacuum, remove clay, vacuum, remove tape and rags, vacuum. Never know I did it, except for the larger water ports.
#93
I cleaned out your swap thread entry - wrong thread. Oops.
The clay and Gorilla tape made it quite easy to keep shavings from going everywhere. Grind everything - vacuum, remove clay, vacuum, remove tape and rags, vacuum. Never know I did it, except for the larger water ports.
The clay and Gorilla tape made it quite easy to keep shavings from going everywhere. Grind everything - vacuum, remove clay, vacuum, remove tape and rags, vacuum. Never know I did it, except for the larger water ports.
#94
Nice work, i'll be doing the same thing, i just gotta wait till they re-deck the block and make sure ill be using HR headgasket, because if they take off to much material i'll have to get a thicker gasket (hope not cuz i already got the HR one lol), how much did you cut off? 11mm?
#95
BTW, here's the JWT article Grey mentioned for anybody reading on:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
It says to cut 11-12mm.
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
It says to cut 11-12mm.
#96
BTW, here's the JWT article Grey mentioned for anybody reading on:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
It says to cut 11-12mm.
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
It says to cut 11-12mm.
#98
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Nice work, i'll be doing the same thing, i just gotta wait till they re-deck the block and make sure ill be using HR headgasket, because if they take off to much material i'll have to get a thicker gasket (hope not cuz i already got the HR one lol), how much did you cut off? 11mm?
.
#99
wow...that is some crazy build...makes me think twice now since I'm doing another 3.5 build...
from your pix i see on this thread..your making me want to sell my maxima and slap on a fully built motor on my Z!
from your pix i see on this thread..your making me want to sell my maxima and slap on a fully built motor on my Z!
#100
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I got the test set of HR valve lifters Friday night. Today I put a "820" lifter in one of the exhaust valves on Cyl #3 and mounted that cam, then checked the valve clearance and it was .011 - within the .011-.015 spec for the exhaust. Whew.. that's a good sign.
Looking closely at the valve stems in the Cosworth heads, you can see where all the valve stems have been cut off - hopefully to a predetermined length so lifter selection won't be impossible and won't require grinding down the valve stems some more.
I also ordered a set of the "spark plug tubes" since the heads came without any. I thought I could scavenge these tubes from one of the older sets of heads here, but in looking at the FSM tonight I see that they are sealed in place with RTV. Good luck on ripping out one of those tubes.
This week the heads and cams will go to the machine shop for final measurements, then I can order 24 lifters of the right height for this engine - at $17.00+ each - Maybe some of the five I just received can be used...
Looking closely at the valve stems in the Cosworth heads, you can see where all the valve stems have been cut off - hopefully to a predetermined length so lifter selection won't be impossible and won't require grinding down the valve stems some more.
I also ordered a set of the "spark plug tubes" since the heads came without any. I thought I could scavenge these tubes from one of the older sets of heads here, but in looking at the FSM tonight I see that they are sealed in place with RTV. Good luck on ripping out one of those tubes.
This week the heads and cams will go to the machine shop for final measurements, then I can order 24 lifters of the right height for this engine - at $17.00+ each - Maybe some of the five I just received can be used...
#101
Very nice.
What kind of spark plugs do you like using in your 3.5? I just found out recently that LFR7A-11 NGK Vpower Coppers don't exist or are very rare. So I just got some LFR5A-11's in the meantime to get the car started.
What kind of spark plugs do you like using in your 3.5? I just found out recently that LFR7A-11 NGK Vpower Coppers don't exist or are very rare. So I just got some LFR5A-11's in the meantime to get the car started.
#102
Thats odd, I was able to find the 7's, at napa. I did have to drive to their main warehouse few miles from here, but they had it in stock.
#103
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Interesting what streetz said about LFR7A-11s - I'll have to check with NAPA locally. As long as I don't go lean like I was doing with fuel-feed problems, the LFR6A-11s worked and looked good. No plug lasts for long with 18:1 A/F and nitrous.
#104
I've been using the LFR6A-11 NGK copper plugs with the shortened grounds and side-gapped for luck. These are available - I get them from sparkplug.com
Interesting what streetz said about LFR7A-11s - I'll have to check with NAPA locally. As long as I don't go lean like I was doing with fuel-feed problems, the LFR6A-11s worked and looked good. No plug lasts for long with 18:1 A/F and nitrous.
Interesting what streetz said about LFR7A-11s - I'll have to check with NAPA locally. As long as I don't go lean like I was doing with fuel-feed problems, the LFR6A-11s worked and looked good. No plug lasts for long with 18:1 A/F and nitrous.
#105
I've got both the 1-step and 2-step colder Iridiums awaiting the new motor. Still trying to decide on how cold I should go, but I bought both on a good deal so I picked them up to have on hand. To spray or not to spray, is the question.
#106
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Copper centers pull the heat away from the combustion chamber much better than iridium electrodes - in my experience.
#107
Good luck with that - I won't use Iridium plugs - the center electrodes don't remove heat like the copper center electrode does, and I have melted a few, or they have bent because of overheating.
Copper centers pull the heat away from the combustion chamber much better than iridium electrodes - in my experience.
Copper centers pull the heat away from the combustion chamber much better than iridium electrodes - in my experience.
#108
Good luck with that - I won't use Iridium plugs - the center electrodes don't remove heat like the copper center electrode does, and I have melted a few, or they have bent because of overheating.
Copper centers pull the heat away from the combustion chamber much better than iridium electrodes - in my experience.
Copper centers pull the heat away from the combustion chamber much better than iridium electrodes - in my experience.
Coppers are a small step better though, but of course won't last nearly as long as the iridiums.
The iridium plug isn't to blame though. They are proven to work great with nitrous. It's the platinums you want to stay far away from when spraying. But if you are looking for a plug that will last a whole lot longer while spraying, iridiums are the way to go, especially since the plugs are tough to access on the 3.5 engine.
On my VE, I only used coppers since they were cheap and I inspected them VERY often, after every single 1/4 mile nitrous pass.
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 04-06-2009 at 11:17 AM.
#109
That was my main reason behind using the iridiums, was for their slightly better lifespan. If you figure out how to change the rears without removing the manifold, let me know. That would be a great trick.
#110
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The front plugs are much simpler. I carry a bag of tools just for this purpose to the track, and have another nylon bag for nitrous jets and two wrenches.
I now have a stable fuel system which stays at 12:1 throughout the RPM range when WOT, nitrous or no nitrous - and all the plugs look the same now.
.
Last edited by grey99max; 04-06-2009 at 12:52 PM.
#111
Have you tried to replace the spark plugs without removing the intake manifold? I briefly looked at the clearance when I first got my engine and it looked like the coil packs would clear.
#113
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Some more progress ordering parts
Since my test of one of the 2007+ HR lifters was a success, I took all the Cosworth cams and their heads to my machine shop this morning, and they will begin measuring for the correct size of HR lifter for each cam lobe - all 24 of them.
I paid $17.09 each for the five test lifters - maybe the machinist can find a better price for the group of 24 lifters I'll need. I sure hope so.
I sent off a set of 3.0 gears to StephenMax last night, to be machined for cam timing using just a longer pin to locate the cams. This makes up for the gears "lost in the mail"...
I also bought a pair of cyroed VLSD axles "NEW VLSD 500+hp capacity Axles (new 500 miles) " from an ORG member who is selling off all of his built car parts. It's kinda sad, seeing how much went into his car, and he's parting it out now.
And I also have a new set of spark plug tubes ordered - FedEx and UPS are wearing out my front door step!
"it's always something"
.
I paid $17.09 each for the five test lifters - maybe the machinist can find a better price for the group of 24 lifters I'll need. I sure hope so.
I sent off a set of 3.0 gears to StephenMax last night, to be machined for cam timing using just a longer pin to locate the cams. This makes up for the gears "lost in the mail"...
I also bought a pair of cyroed VLSD axles "NEW VLSD 500+hp capacity Axles (new 500 miles) " from an ORG member who is selling off all of his built car parts. It's kinda sad, seeing how much went into his car, and he's parting it out now.
And I also have a new set of spark plug tubes ordered - FedEx and UPS are wearing out my front door step!
"it's always something"
.
#115
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I found out something new today - it seems you can cyro your transmission as a complete unit - without disassembling anything! There is a container where the tranny is placed, then it's dipped in liquid nitrogen until about -350*F then slowly warmed up. My machinist builds for a Pro Stock nut that builds world-record-class cars for people, and this guy does it - a lot. I'm going to get more details, but dippings things in liquid nitrogen seems to be getting more common - there's a place in this town that does it, even. I might try it if it sounds sane - and not too expensive.
#117
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Has anyone else heard of this practice - "cyro in a can" ???
#118
this sounds super interesting! Maybe I can cryo my differential on the Camaro. That stock 8.5" GM diff is a weak POS LOL
Harold the build is looking great keep up updated! I still say you boost it
Harold the build is looking great keep up updated! I still say you boost it
#119
My big concern would be what it would do to the seals? If you have to pull the whole thing apart to replace the input shaft and striker rod seal (5&6spds) afterwards, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to do it as a whole assembly. I'd also be curious on the auto as to how it might affect the clutches and bands. Not everything benefits from cyro treatment, and it can have some 'interesting' side effects.