doublea

iTrader: (7)

Great works, I cant wait to see how fast it will be !

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

Nice to hear you got it running. What are you tuning with?

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

TAPE, LOL

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

Jesus, he's gonna need something better for this monster.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

[QUOTE=krazy6;7721287]Jesus, he's gonna need something better for this monster. [/QUO

I just spent 10 minutes composing a "quote" message here, and when I went to review it, I wasn't looged in anymore and my message was lost - and this isn't the first time this has happened.

What the cr*p is wrong with this forum site?

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

What are you gonna be tuning this beast with?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Tape. Aluminum duct tape. Applied to the trailing edge of the sensor tunnel in the MAF. Works good at all RPMs.

P.S.
Of course a Greddy EU is next in the plans, right after two direct-port injection stages for the nitrous.

P.P.S.
Today I repaired the leaking rear valve cover, installed new AutoGear fuel rails and G35 injectors, converted the fuel system manifold to use full fuel flow through the rails, and installed the new intake elbow with two NX Shark nozzles. She started right up. Tomorrow is the ImportFaceOff at KCIR, and I kinda wanted to drive the car there as a spectator.

.

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

I'm surprised that works, but as long as it gets the job done.

The nitrous system is gonna be sick!
When do you think you'll have that done?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Right after I get all the parts from Induction Solutions, I think. I bought a 10" drill press to drill out another intake manifold for two sets of 1/2" tubes to mount all those annular injectors, and I.S. has kits of connectors and flared tubing at a reasonable price.

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

Induction Solutions...good ****!

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Awesome news Harold, finally its alive!!! must feel good. Like I always mention, I seriously recommend you install the EU before anything else, before the nitrous and all that. Its far more important, the tape stuff might work, but you cant do anything about timing and dont have the same flexibility to tune fuel.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

It's running purdy good - got about 250 miles on it, some easy, some rough. This engine is really smooth. Wasn't there someone who makes the plug-and-play cable for the 4th gen and the EU?

I'm going to order the universal cable and AF cable now - and see about the P-and-P cable. I really need to extend the rev limiter now. The WOT A/F is about 11:1 - so I need some tape moved. Heh.

So when are you going to a drag strip and test your beast? I bet you could sell tickets.

.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Word son


Lookin good my friend.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I have a brand new never used EU main harness that I can sell you. PM me.

Cheers

AA

maxina97

iTrader: (12)

i think MOHFpro use to sell the plug and play harness but hasn't in a while. i'd love to see those videos of this beast running...

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

Yeah Kyle (MOHFPro) has been real busy with 2 jobs full time and full 16 credits at school. He hasn't had much time to do anything really

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Heck - I guess I'll have to build one, unless someone has a complete cable to sell. For some reason the AVI files off my Nikon won't upload any more.

A side note - I was at the KCIR Import Faceoff on Sunday, and the announcer mentioned a turboed something from Conway, Arkansas. Didn't see it run. The turnout there was down by 50% or so. But, I got in 180 miles on the engine on 1/2 tank of premium gas. You know, that car hasn't had anything but race fuel for the last three years.

maxina97

iTrader: (12)

yeah, i wanted to go to that. looks like the guy was driving a honda del sol... http://www.importfaceoff.net/kansas_city2.htm

you should see our import night here, it's so small. but the guys that do come out are pretty cool, for honda guys. how many more break-in miles do you have left?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I've run it through some full-power runs now, besides the 250+ road miles, so I'm done with the break-in stuff. I'm ordering some nitrous parts to use the two NX Shark nozzles I installed in the intake elbow so I can get a read on how they work together.(gotta spray them together). That will be exciting.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

are you planning to do any all motor testing or soon as you confirm everything is fine just go right to the nitrous

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Right now it pulls crazy hard from 4500-6500, but it wants to go higher. I need to install the EU next, right? That's going to take a while to order, install, and figure it out.... In between doing that and thinking about wider slicks, I'm going to finish the elbow-stage of nitrous, then build the first of two direct-port stages.

I could do a dyno with the stock ECU, but I think that would be obsolete as soon as I get the EU working. Probably the most I would try is playing with the elbow-nitrous stage, set at 70WHP with two sets of jets for 35WHP. I think that would be enough excitement for an old man.

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like an animal! The EU will make it a beast!

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Well I know Steven, forget his username, but he made his own harness using a spare ECU. very clean job he did. I just did it the old fashion way, wire up one wire at a time straight to the ecu.

Man, I day dream everyday about being at the track lol. I really hope I can make it very soon.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Harold you know what would really top off your build, a J&S!!! Its pricey, but worth every penny. I was going to actually ditch out the $500-600 for it before I found a used one for $200, the best investment I have ever made, hell even if it was $800, its worth it. The only drawback is that you cant advance timing, but who cares, your not going to be advancing timing anyway with the nitrous (I hope not), even then the new J&S can be used with the EU without having to rig up a special harness like I do with mine. Which means you can still control timing with the EU, and let the J&S retard it only if it thinks its going to knocks.

Think about it, I am positive your going to experiment with advancing timing, your going to need some way to control knock (even with meth you knock if too much timing, trust me I know lol). When I tune, I up the timing till my gauge starts lighting up (which means the JS is retarding timing because it detected very very very faint knock, so it retards just enough to make it go away before an actual hard knock happens), oh and it only retards on the cylinder that was about to knock, which means you dont loose power on all other cylinders.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

"So many toys, so little time" I've watched your comments about the J&S and see you find it useful. I've lunched enough engines already - I would like to keep one for a while - although the last 3.5 did great up till the last pass of the season. So the J&S won't let any ignition advance happen? At some point after the EU is working, it would be fun to push the new engine while it's strictly NA - I probably would learn a lot that way. I could get a good NA tune on the dyno, just to see what the engine can do.

I'm itching to spray this engine, but I know better - well, the 70-shot doesn't count - so I'll build the nitrous stages for later, as I go - on a stock IM this time, to see if you're right about the different low-end power for me. Hmmmm... I could put that manifold on right now... no, I need to install the Induction Solutions parts first. It's really getting crowded under the hood, and I still need a NX fuel cell for the methanol.

I will get information on the J&S and study up some. Where did you mount the EU AND the J&S? My glove box isn't that big...

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Put both under the pass seat and you can run the wires next to the ac duct under the carpet(or in the duct if you dont care bout the right rear pass getting foot air

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Basically, if you had a J&S before, you wouldnt have broken 3.0's and the 3.5.
Thats how Matt/Mardigra and Bigdogjonx would push the 3.0's to the limits and past, I actually talk to bigdogjonx often and he once told me he purposely tried to blow the engine on a dyno to see how much it would take, kept on increasing the boost and nothing, dyno operator finally told him to stop because he was worried he would have to clean up the dyno if it blew(since its FWD and motor right above the rollers) lol. He ended up passing 450whp.

As for me, I swear by it, it has already saved me a few times. One time my methanol line broke so as I was in full boost WOT, i suddenly see the gauge lighting up like a Christmas tree, car still pulled hard as hell, so the J&S was retarding timing to where it was not going to knock, so even if I stayed on the gas it was still safe because timing was lower. The gauge actually dosnt show knock, what it shows is that the J&S is retarding timing and how much, so if you see say 2 led's (out of 10) light up that means it picked up faint knock and retarded 2 degree's (or 4 depending on ur setting), if the faint knock(faint enough to not hurt anything) is still there it then retards more timing till its gone, and again only on the cylinder thats doing that, not the others. it can retard timing only on the cylinders that are giving trouble simultaneously.

There are more features about the J&S, such as a nitrous activation, you can wire up the solenoid or power to the solenoid into the J&S so that when you spray it automatically retards X amount of timing while its spraying. You can also retard timing based on RPM or boost (useless in yourcase till you do the RMT ). In other words with this awesome device you can run the most aggressive timing possible without knocking. In other words MOAR POWER!!!!!!!

I have my Suprastick, J&S, and EU on the floor below the glovbox. I then put a piece of plywood ontop, this way people can step on it without having to worry about messing up wires or hurting a device.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I don't buy the fact the JandS will pull timing by the cylinder since it detects knock from a single point

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

It picks up knock from a single sensor, but when it detects knock it knows which cylinder was firing when it happened.
So the next time the cylinder fires, it will pull X amount of timing before.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

So there is room for both the EU and J&S under the manual passenger seat? I like this idea better than the glove box area - I have my ShiftFast hardware hanging off the console, and the nitrous-cut-during-shift electronics under the front mat right now.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

So you respect the J&S, I guess... I checked and could only find them for sale from the manufacturer - no sale items in Google or eBay. I did read the Interceptor specs and saw the nitrous retard function - I can use that! So how are your EU and J&S wired? Does the EU get the coil signal first and pass to the J&S? Or how do you do it?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Well for mine, I dont have the EU controlling timing at all. So from ECU goes into JS then to coils. I have an older JS so I have to make a "buffered wastespark adapter" to work with the EU (or have John make me one for $100). I have no need to advance timing so it works out perfect for me, I dont need EU for ignition. The new J&S's dont need anythign special, they work with the EU right out of the box. So basically it would be ECU to EU to JS to coil. Yeah you can only buy it through John since its a small private company, i dont think he distributes it anywhere, or buy a used one which is hard to find.

I recommend calling John for anything you might want to clear up or to listen to additional benefits, his very helpful and descriptive, and he is also familiar with Maximas since he helped some of the old school org'ers back in the day. He has a writeup specifically for the maxima, although its not with the new J&S, im sure he'll give you details on how to wire it, not that hard.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

That does even sound right, whats the point of detecting knock and waiting for the next revolution to then pull timing the motor could already be damaged. It should pull timing right away also the knock sensor can not tell which cylinder is knocking you would have multi units or get that info from the crank sensor by the tranny cause it measures the teeth on the timing ring

I telling you just go out your car make it knock and measure the coils, it will pull timing as a whole.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

You are wrong, read up on it and how it works exactly. The JS keeps track of which coils are being activated, it does not need a signal from the cps, all it does is delay the signals being sent to the coils, you dont even need to know how much timing there is in order to do that. (Which is how the Emanage Blue retards timing, it does not need crank signal).

It detects knock in fractions of a second before it escalates into actual bad knock. And actually the way you test the system is to hit the KS with something while someone rev's it, you can see rpms drop and gauge light up, even if you have it set to Individual Retard, you can still somewhat see rpm dropping if you tap KS enough. It works and its proven.

Lets now fill Harold's thread with back n forward discussion, read up on it or call john and he will explain it to you in details.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

which is why the e-blue is not that great either, What's John # and I'll call him cause based out how the ign system works it can not happen on a per cylinder level. There is no way for a single ks to say pull only from cyl #5 cause it's the only one knocking. The j&s may know which coil is firing cause of how it's connected but it does not which one is knocking

BTW, If someone hits the ks individual mode how does it know which cylinder. Just think about what you wrote half has nothing to do about the topic and the rest proves nothing

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Come on now. How hard is it to understand it, coils are firing in certain order, everytime a coil fires, that signal comes from the ECU through the J&S then to coil, now lets say ECU sends signal for cylinder 5 to fire, at the same time that signal passes through the J&S, the J&S picks up knock from the KS, so now the J&S knows that when the signal for the cylinder 5 was being sent there was knock, so next time the signal to that same cylinder is sent the J&S will delay it (which retards).

The blue is not that great in what? Now your the one going off topic, we're talking about how the device retards timing, the blue does that perfectly just as good as the EU, all they do is delay the signal to the coil, no science behind that. Do the research, talk to john, but dont doubt something if you dont know how it even works.

note: (714) 534 6975

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

The ad is a play on words, it does know which cylinder knocked cause there is nothing to tell it, less your telling me it's guessing. Just go back to basic's and how timing it set and how does the ecu how which cylinder to fire, the teeth on the timing ring. The j&s will just pull timing on whatever cylinder that happens to be firing at the time when knock is detected. Again the ks can not tell which cylinder is knocking. So if it does work the way you explain it's guessing and the reason why there are new and better tuning options out there

I know how it and a ign system works and you brought up the other stuff not me, you

btw call John no answer, vmail, company automated system nothing

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

lol I know your joking around with me right? If not then, I cant make it more clear on how it works, I guess you will never know.

essential1

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking the same thing as you at first, but I understand it now.

Correct me if im wrong streetz, but the J&S unit is hooked up to the 6 coil pack wires on the ecu harness individually. The same way you hook the EU's coil pack wires to the ecu harness. Am I right? It is also connected to the KS which is where it would get its knock signal obviously.

Lets say that the motor happens to knock, the J&S basically logs the split second that the motor experienced the knock and which ever cylinder was firing at that moment is the one that the J&S delays the signal on.

This is only possible because like I said before, it is hooked up to each individual coil wire so it can read the signal for each specific coil.

Is that the basic concept streetz?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Correct