chillin014

iTrader: (67)

I'm currently doing a 3.5 swap into a 2000 Max and wanted to confirm a few things. As far as I can tell the swap is the same as it would be into a 4th gen.

The first question I have is about the coolant log. I haven't looked it over entirely yet but I know on my 4th gen I used the 4th gen coolant log. On the DE-K there is an extra attachment that goes from the coolant log to the block, there is a spot for this on the 3.5 block as well but it does not go through to the block, its just a closed-off recessed area. Should I try to use the 3.5 log? And the thermostat housing is missing on the 3.5, use the 3.0 one, right?

Also, as far as the Intake manifold. I saw some similar connections regarding the intake manifold valve goes. Any confirmation that any of this hooks up between the 00vi and the 3.5 IM? Or should I plan on just doing a block off plate as usual?

Injectors appear to be the same/ no splicing needed.

The IACV will obviously be lost as the TB is now the 3.5 one. I'm not sure if thats going to pose any issues.

thats all I can think of for now. I need to order some seals for the timing cases and oil pan.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You can just use the VQ35 coolant log, the only reason you'd swap is for the ECTS for the gauge cluster, IIRC.

You can use the VQ30 thermostat and housing unless you're going to be running the oil cooler.

The DE-K ECU wouldn't properly control the power valve on the VQ35 UIM. It's designed to just open the VIAS on the 00VI, not do it multiple times as on the VQ35.

Are you doing a full swap? You'd still need to do a remote mount IACV unless you're going full swap with e-gas and all. Otherwise obviously you're still going to need to convert the VQ35 TB to use a cable, and use a seperate IACV.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

thanks Paul.

I kinda thought that might be the case with the intake manifold. I remember reading it cant be controlled by an rpm switch, etc.

I am not doing a full swap, no. Using the 3.0 timing equipment. I am going to try to run without an IACV at first in that case, since that worked on my 4th gen swap quite well for a long time actually. I'm aware of converting the TB, and the loss of cruise control as well.

Good to hear the coolant log can stay; less work. That oil cooler is a cool feature but I guess its going to have to go as well since I'll be using the 3.0 housing.

thats all for now. I've got a week to finish it so I may return with questions.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

okay I need someone to refresh my memory. I'm trying to put the 3.5 to TDC and align all the sprocket markings with their respective chain links. I have turned this motor over probably 20+ times trying to get them ALL to line up. Twice I have managed to line up the crankshaft and two outter most cam gears. However, even with these aligned the small chains between each set of cams does not seem to be anywhere close to lining up with their marks/chain links.
What should I be looking for to confirm the cams are in the right positions?

thanks

this is a picture from my last swap where I was able to get EVERYTHING to line up.

but now I cant get the small chains between the cams to line up

oldngivout

iTrader: (8)

I used the PF throttle body on my swap, and I retained the use of my cruise control.

http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=DSC00141.jpg

http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=DSC00138.jpg

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Surprised you were able to get them lined up, given the amount of teeth and chain the chances of lining everything up is slim, IIRC.

Anyway, as long as you're at TDC, everything should be lined up just fine. Just look at the markings on the gears and make sure they're roughly in the correct place.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

thanks. I think I've got it figure out. You're right, that was kind of a miracle that I did it. My elbow hurts now, I think I have developed arthritis or something lmao. I always do things the hard way but I was able to talk to nismology and he explained that as long as its at TDC and the cam dowel pins are lined up properly etc etc. It will become more clear once I transfer everything over I think.

oldngivot- I was talking about the stock 3.5 throttle body and cruise control. apparently you cant fit the second lever on there.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

quick exhaust question. Will aftermarket header/y pipe set ups (like ssautochrome) built for 1995-1999 fit an 2000-2001 body? It looks like the part numbers are the same for y pipes from 1995-2003 as far as I can tell on courtesy nissans website. Anyone know for sure?
Cattman advertises them as separate products between '99 and 00 so I'm a little confused.

maxima.713

iTrader: (7)

hes doing this swap on my car. there is just some minor things that we need to make sure abaut. thanks for the help guys. and especialy chillin for doing the swap for me.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

no prob.

Hey check out this weird torn gasket...its almost like a manufacturer defect. Anyone know what this is?I cant find a part number for it...does it matter? It looks like it is some sort of channel for oil (either oil or coolant).



notice how the gasket is overhanging in the corner?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Looks like it's been blown out. You can't get that gasket individually (only with a whole front cover). Yes, it's important; it's a pressurized oil passage.

Best you can really do is make your own gasket, I wouldn't trust RTV with high oil pressure, personally.

Good thing you found it, or you could've potentially had oiling issues.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

dammmmmmmmmnit. Make one though? What gasket material would work for that? I think I'm going to try to get a used one.

thanks

this must be due to the over-revving Maxima713 told me about...lol..(from 3rd gear to 2nd, right?)

maxima.713

iTrader: (7)

lol. yup! stupid driver mod. *facepalm*

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

im going to check the 3.5 timing case, maybe the gasket is the same.

edit- it was! I transferred it right over. whew. and yeah you were right paul, it was just blown.

I assume the inner timing cover should go on before the oil pan right?

accordingtou

iTrader: (41)

Yes the oil pan goes on after both timing covers are insatlled.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

almost put the oil pan on before the outer cover. thanks!

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

okay, I bought water pump seals and there are 2, with 2 different part numbers. Does it matter which one goes where? They seemed about the same size, but there was an orange one and a black one that came off...the ones I bought were both black.

I put the one ending 31U03 where the black one was (the inner most o-ring towards the motor) and i believe the other one ended in 31U04. I will confirm these numbers later.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Correct, 21049-31U04 is the front (oil side) o-ring, 21049-31U03 is the rear (coolant side).

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

awesome, i lucked out.
thanks again

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

I have taken mine around about 20 times this morning and still cant get it to line up how many times did you have to take it around, whats another way to make sure im at tdc just judging from the chains

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

we make it much more complicated than it is haha. the best way to check is by the small diagonal line near the crankshaft sprocket on the face of the oil pump. line up the crank "key" with this little line and its at tdc. you can also check with a screwdriver down the spark plug hole of the number 1 cylinder. (the cylinder closest to you on the left bank when facing the motor on the timing chain side.
as long as the dowel pins are pointing "upwards" relative to each head you should have it right.
i cant give the best explaination right now since im on my phone but dont waste too much time trying to get it perfect. its really pretty hard to screw up when putting it back together as long as all thhe colored chain links are in the right spot.
ill explain better if someone doesnt do a better job before iget back to a computer.

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

cool thanks man I look foward to it

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

ok guys chime in here I got mine to line up exactly like this on the left side but on the right side the two links on the secondary chain are on the two dashes instead of the two dots but I stuck a screw driver down in the number one piston and it seems to be at top dead center but how do I tell if its on the exaust stroke or the compresion stroke, also I put the front cover on to see what position the crank pulley was in and there were three marks the two that are close together the top one is where mine was just want be completley sure before I take everything off

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

your thinking way too far into it. For the most part you can ignore the markings. Your ultimate goal here is to make sure that the #1 piston is at TDC and the cams are in the proper position. Each came has a sprocket and a dowel pin that aligns that sprocket. You want these dowel pins to be pointing outwards towards the top of the motor. Here is a picture from the FSM to show the relative positioning of the cams and crank. (the middle cartoon, sorry its so small)

Take note of how vague this picture is...because it doesnt really matter that these things are aligned until you go to put the timing stuff back on. When you are putting the secondary and primary chains back on you are not going to be able to align the colored links with their proper markings on the sprockets AND have the timing be wrong at the same time. That is the point of it...its practically fool proof.

I know you want to get moving...I was the same exact way..it seemed very critical that everything be in the right position. When you are loosening your cam sprocket bolts there is a good chance the valves putting tension on your camshaft lobes will twist the cams and therefore make all your careful alignment fairly useless. It will make much more sense when your doing it. and evne more when you go to put it back together.

Here is one tip though! DONT remove your primary chain until you have loosened your cam bolts. I've found it nearly impossible to remove the exhaust cam bolts (even with an impact wrench) except when I lockedu p the crankshaft with a long screwdriver between the engine stand and the flywheel bolts and then used a breaker-bar on the camshaft bolts. Keeping the primary chain connects the cam to the crank and therefore locks it all in place.

anyway. I finished my motor timing stuff today, got it all back together except the lower oil pan. One thing I did notice however was that I could move the intake cams independently from the exhaust cam with all the chains connected...it was like there was play in the dowel pin/spacers that allowed for a couple degrees of movement. Hopefully this is a negligible tolerance..

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

when I did the swap the 3.5 coolant lot had only one sensor in the log and my 4g had 3. I just swapped my 4g log onto the 3.5 motor and all was fine.

the 3.5 thermo is different as it has an extra plug to provide coolant to the oil cooler. If you aren't going to use the oil cooler then you could use the 3.0 one and all would be fine.


not too sure... I imagine the DE-K has more vac lines than the 4gs have. How many are there? 3.5 motor will need a total of 3.

Correct on the 5th gen, no need for splicing. just plug and go...lucky

If you get the pathy TB you should be able to mount the iacv off the original TB onto the bottom of the path tb and all should be fine... or better yet I think the IACV of the path TB is the same... if so no need to swap just plug into the path iacv (assuming it comes with it). I'd double check on that I'm not 100% sure...

Yes indeed. Careful when putting them on. Luckily the motor is on a stand. I flipped the motor 180 so that the seals wouldnt move and I could put the pan on easy and smooth.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I forgot what initially happened but during my first swap I ended up having to set TDC on each bank and then the crank. I actually went by the cam lobes to achieve TDC, and on the crank used that mark on the oil pump to confirm TDC @ the crank.

I used the links and colors on the links as a guide but I found it impossible to get all the color links at their exact marks. I followed the FSM and lined up each bank to TDC, using the dowel pin (as I learned in later swaps), and have always been fine. Even on my first swap my timing was dead on...

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I'd just use the chains as a guide... cause when the motor is together, the motor cares nothing for color links, those are just there for help in assembly disassembly... I can admit My links never were exact, I spend good time getting it as close as possible but never hit 100% and I spend 7 minutes scratching my head and wondering how did Nissan do it? but minus the colored links, when going by cam lobes, and dowel pins and marking on the oil pump. TDC was achieve flawlessly as should be.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

I just used the 3.5 coolant log. And I used the 3.0 thermo-housing because the coolant line for the oil pump was kinked pretty bad. I hate to plug that coolant line with a bolt but I just dont see a better way.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I think the dek's dont have as many sensors as the 4g do so they can use the same coolant log. Also some 95 dont have all those extra sensors too so the log swap isnt needed, just depends on the circumstance.

You can replace that coolant line. I didnt even get one with my motors so I just went to autozone and got a long coolant tube and used that. Fine ever since...

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

I think I'm just going to plug it. I found a bolt/plug on the back of the DEK right where that tube is on the 3.5 so I'll see if it fits and then that hardline wont even have to be hanging there.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

that is another option. If you have extra vac sources after provided all the 3.5 will need you should be fine plugging it... Depending on that it is...

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

i think your confused. I'm just talking about the oil cooler hose that comes off the back of the block. The plug fit perfectly btw.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

ohhh I was thinking of the other line....

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

damnit. I'm trying to modify the 3.5 TB to be cable driven but I dont think I have the necessary parts from the DE-K throttle body. In the write-ups they have a picture of some little bent gold piece to turn the TPS but the de-k throttle body didn't have that piece.

the outtermost piece on the butteryfly shaft^

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

I forget exactly what I read about the fuel pressure awhile back. I know originally it was thought that it needed to be around 50~ psi but then it was confirmed to actually be unnecessary. Does anyone know if I could avoid running a FPR and just hook up the fuel rail (it bolts right up of course).

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

I'm trying to finish this up...there are a few things that are raising an eyebrow and sections of my FSM are missing. First of all, does the power steering require vacuum connections? There are two 1/4 tubes coming from the power steering...area that look like they might have attached to the vq30 intake manifold.
There are other connections that I dont think will have a place to connect to, but I'll come back with better info later. I feel sick right now, so i'm going to sleep before school.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

its important when doing this swap to get good rest too.. tired brain will over look something that doesnt need to be overlooked...

PS should have a connector that has that o-ring thing going on at the end... the other tube goes to the reservoir... there is another tube connecting to the reservoir that goes somewhere else I cant remember... dont think it gets vaccum... post a pic if you can...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No, the PS system doesn't need use use vacuum for anything.

Where exactly are these two pipes coming from/leading to? Have you hooked up the connections to the cooler out front yet?

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

i'll get some pictures of them (and look harder at where they are coming from)...they kind of just disappear back at the firewall but I couldnt think of what else they could be...maybe something for the 00vi?

what cooler are you referring to? oil cooler? I wasn't able to use that.

Do the 5th gens have a speedometer sensor near the wheels or something? the tranny didnt have the sensor in it, just a block-off plate. The new transmission has the sensor since its from a 4th gen.

i'll be back later..gotta go to school.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No, the PS cooler.

If they run to the firewall, they're probably just the lines for the rack.

The A33+ runs off of the ABS sensors, IIRC. Though I seem to remember that some had the VSS.