maximelt's all time build NA VQ35DE/HR hybrid
03-10-2012, 09:29 PM
#1
maximelt's all time build NA VQ35DE/HR hybrid
got a motor being built
block-cleaned inspected honed by me and my ***** and drill
heads-cleaned and valve job
cometic
HR Head studs and Main studs
HR cams
HR Pistons w/HR rings
Stock DE rods with ARP 202-6006 bolts using stretch method I put the arp lube on the threads but not under the head bolts.oops
I just put the heads on torquing torquing those was a pita.
now I have a timing cover that only has one oil channell but should use two. so diffrebnt ftfront cover entrirely. 2 make good oil pressure hi rpm you use a revup oil pum fashow.
gotta get lash good. tried a better girdle no make, stock one looks diecast metal ha.
Now workin on valvelash. adjustment.
block-cleaned inspected honed by me and my ***** and drill
heads-cleaned and valve job
cometic
HR Head studs and Main studs
HR cams
HR Pistons w/HR rings
Stock DE rods with ARP 202-6006 bolts using stretch method I put the arp lube on the threads but not under the head bolts.oops
I just put the heads on torquing torquing those was a pita.
now I have a timing cover that only has one oil channell but should use two. so diffrebnt ftfront cover entrirely. 2 make good oil pressure hi rpm you use a revup oil pum fashow.
gotta get lash good. tried a better girdle no make, stock one looks diecast metal ha.
Now workin on valvelash. adjustment.
03-11-2012, 09:40 AM
#4
Yeah, but they are alot lighter than stock and can take more abuse. The lightweight alone will make it easier for the crank to turn them. But Stock is OK, its not needed.
03-11-2012, 04:40 PM
#7
Since the crankshaft+rod+piston weights are balanced from the factory, with no external balancing done by the flywheel or front pulley, I believe that if you change anything - pistons and rods especially - that the entire assembly needs to be re-balanced to survive higher revs. Just saying....
03-11-2012, 05:05 PM
#8
Since the crankshaft+rod+piston weights are balanced from the factory, with no external balancing done by the flywheel or front pulley, I believe that if you change anything - pistons and rods especially - that the entire assembly needs to be re-balanced to survive higher revs. Just saying....
I wonder how much the HR pistons weight differ from the DE hopefully not enough to majorly throw the balance off!just searched and the DE weighs 393-395g
Last edited by Maximeltman; 03-11-2012 at 05:29 PM.
03-11-2012, 05:05 PM
#9
03-11-2012, 05:29 PM
#10
^thanks for that 95naSTA! So is the 3.5 cover better because of the extra top oil passage?
EDIT: just looked up some pics and it's for the oil pathways in the heads...my heads have the oil pathways and this timing cover doesn't feed those with oil...maybe not necessary.
EDIT: just looked up some pics and it's for the oil pathways in the heads...my heads have the oil pathways and this timing cover doesn't feed those with oil...maybe not necessary.
Last edited by Maximeltman; 03-11-2012 at 10:20 PM.
03-13-2012, 06:20 PM
#11
some pics: Sorry if there are too many, mods can delete if necessary!
when it arrived: I was going to just swap it in, but the freight carrier dropped my engine so I thought I better tear into it a little..It had a bent stering pump and I could see that the motor mount was bent up.
heads off:
used HR pistons...but New to me bought for $50
Honed with ball hone:
Think piston knock may have caused this?
with Cometic .04" Gaskets:
Valve job:
Anyways...thanks for viewing! I need more parts but the block is assembled!
when it arrived: I was going to just swap it in, but the freight carrier dropped my engine so I thought I better tear into it a little..It had a bent stering pump and I could see that the motor mount was bent up.
heads off:
used HR pistons...but New to me bought for $50
Honed with ball hone:
Think piston knock may have caused this?
with Cometic .04" Gaskets:
Valve job:
Anyways...thanks for viewing! I need more parts but the block is assembled!
03-13-2012, 09:36 PM
#13
03-13-2012, 10:41 PM
#15
I did my homework man! Cometic head gaskets .04" so they will clear the heads! When I crank it over w/a ratchet, they don't become restrictive at all..
03-14-2012, 04:34 PM
#18
thy're de heads, sorry I didn't answer the first time..
Is that where you shave/dremel the coolant passages? I did a bit of that but not a whole lot...you should be able to see a little taken out in the pic w/the hr pistons installed, compared to the pic with the de pistons installed.
EDIT No I did not. Won't I drill thru an oil line? LOL SABOTAGE!!!!
EDIT No I did not. Won't I drill thru an oil line? LOL SABOTAGE!!!!
Last edited by Maximeltman; 03-16-2012 at 03:36 PM.
03-25-2012, 05:46 PM
#20
UPDATE:
I just tried an idea out and I think it will work to supply the 3.5 gen secondary chain tension with oil. The 3.5 inner timing case has an extra secondary oil channel and the 3.0 does not...I have good cam sprocket/chain clearance, and I plan to strap it in very securely:
I just tried an idea out and I think it will work to supply the 3.5 gen secondary chain tension with oil. The 3.5 inner timing case has an extra secondary oil channel and the 3.0 does not...I have good cam sprocket/chain clearance, and I plan to strap it in very securely:
03-31-2012, 08:26 AM
#22
The outer 3.5de case has the intake cam oil injectors built in, probably to either oil the variable timing cam gear mechanisms on the intakes and/or to inject oil into the intake cams. Also I was looking and I think the 3.5de intake cam sprocket bolts are hollow, thus confirming the oil injector theory...
03-31-2012, 10:55 AM
#23
thy're de heads, sorry I didn't answer the first time..
Is that where you shave/dremel the coolant passages? I did a bit of that but not a whole lot...you should be able to see a little taken out in the pic w/the hr pistons installed, compared to the pic with the de pistons installed.
EDIT No I did not. Won't I drill thru an oil line? LOL SABOTAGE!!!!
Is that where you shave/dremel the coolant passages? I did a bit of that but not a whole lot...you should be able to see a little taken out in the pic w/the hr pistons installed, compared to the pic with the de pistons installed.
EDIT No I did not. Won't I drill thru an oil line? LOL SABOTAGE!!!!
We changed the water flow around to mimic what Nissan has done on the latest variants of the VQ engine, the VQ35HR and the VQ37VHR. In these engines, the water comes up from the block around each individual cylinder by the hotter exhaust valves and then out to the radiator. This is done by using the head gaskets for these engines. The blocks water passages must also be enlarged in the area near the bores so the passages in the new gaskets line up with the ones in the block. The revised water flow significantly improves cooling on older VQ engines, essential for ones seeing higher boost.
and
http://vq35.com/blog/2010/07/go-with...ooling-system/
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3011
Seems like a cheap way to improve the cooling system. I would expect anyone who is familiar with building VQ engines would suggest this...
Last edited by FastnFuriousMax; 03-31-2012 at 11:02 AM.
03-31-2012, 11:54 AM
#24
^ Damn...I should of done that! I don't plan on going NEAR 600HP though, but still a thought! (I'm not shooting for any crazy HP, I just want a faster street demon than what it is now lol) I have cometic head gaskets on there and I read they're reusable for about 4-5 tear downs...If I could make mods to those gaskets for increased water flow then that would be awesome, but I cannot see a way to block/cover the original DE water inlet reliably without actually buying an HR headgasket and tossing the Cometic, which were $175 for both.
04-01-2012, 07:44 PM
#26
but nothing too heavy on the motor...I just hope it starts up and runs great when it's done LOL...
04-08-2012, 12:30 AM
#27
Since the crankshaft+rod+piston weights are balanced from the factory, with no external balancing done by the flywheel or front pulley, I believe that if you change anything - pistons and rods especially - that the entire assembly needs to be re-balanced to survive higher revs. Just saying....
04-08-2012, 03:21 AM
#28
I'm hoping that just because I changed from the DE pistons to HR pistons won't throw the balance off by too much!
04-28-2012, 11:01 AM
#30
Don't forget to clean your mating surfaces thoroughly.....I still see old RTV on the inner timing cover....I clean then install parts then wipe down agan with MEK b4 appling RTV good luck with your build!
04-28-2012, 12:56 PM
#31
Thanks man, I would have had it together this far weeks ago, but my local dealership was taking a very long time to get the new valve lifters I needed so I had to order online. (funny how I could get them b4 my dealership could...)
04-29-2012, 07:23 AM
#32
BTW-Will I be ok if just using my 99 ecu with this setup, I understand it wont be optimally tuned but can I use it just to get around? I searched and searched and cannot find much info on how much the HR cams' timing need advanced or if they really are pnp? I really hope theyre pnp..
04-29-2012, 08:49 AM
#33
BTW-Will I be ok if just using my 99 ecu with this setup, I understand it wont be optimally tuned but can I use it just to get around? I searched and searched and cannot find much info on how much the HR cams' timing need advanced or if they really are pnp? I really hope theyre pnp..
If it starts good, but dont drive it until its tuned if you just did cams yea you could risk it because OEM cams are not aggressive enough to cause much of any problems. But those cams PLUS raising the compression.....yea hold off on driving unless its like 10mins to get tuned even then i would rather tow my car than drive it.
04-29-2012, 09:27 AM
#34
No.
If it starts good, but dont drive it until its tuned if you just did cams yea you could risk it because OEM cams are not aggressive enough to cause much of any problems. But those cams PLUS raising the compression.....yea hold off on driving unless its like 10mins to get tuned even then i would rather tow my car than drive it.
If it starts good, but dont drive it until its tuned if you just did cams yea you could risk it because OEM cams are not aggressive enough to cause much of any problems. But those cams PLUS raising the compression.....yea hold off on driving unless its like 10mins to get tuned even then i would rather tow my car than drive it.
04-29-2012, 12:35 PM
#35
well from the recent developments and all i would say there is no reason not to get the haltech. also if you keep it NA i would definitely do a full swap. it's not that much more involved...
04-29-2012, 01:17 PM
#36
Im not a tuning person myself but EU is your best bet. With that compression timing might have to be adjusted so a VAFC would be useless.
04-29-2012, 03:43 PM
#37
To do a full swap, I think I'd also need the HR vtc cam gears, unless the DE cam gears would work...Then I'd need HR harness so that the exhaust cams would be able to send signals along with the intake cams. I'd also need an HR outer timing cover, (I think that the de and hr inner timing cover are pretty much identical?) which has dual vtc solenoids on both intake and exhaust cams, and the harness and all the other stuff...That's a lot...or is it? It's all about the oil galleries on these covers that activate the vtc I believe, and the solenoids open/close the galleries.
LOLI still got the DE cams laying around, so without the HR cams, then you think I'd be OK without EU? of course then I'd need to re-adjust valve lash for the DE cams which was a TOTAL PITA...
Also, when I got the motor, the DE cams did not have spacers, which knocks the timing chain out of square by about 1/8" or so with the crank sprocket...and the guy I bought it from didn't seem to have any issues...do I really need the spacers? The spacers are what's halting me atm..
Anyone recommend a perfect power smt7 or smt8?
Last edited by Maximeltman; 04-29-2012 at 06:34 PM.
04-29-2012, 09:21 PM
#38
Mcsteve-I would get the Haltech if this wasn't a hybrid-there's no vtc with this hybrid setup, and the Haltech would be like $2200
To do a full swap, I think I'd also need the HR vtc cam gears, unless the DE cam gears would work...Then I'd need HR harness so that the exhaust cams would be able to send signals along with the intake cams. I'd also need an HR outer timing cover, (I think that the de and hr inner timing cover are pretty much identical?) which has dual vtc solenoids on both intake and exhaust cams, and the harness and all the other stuff...That's a lot...or is it? It's all about the oil galleries on these covers that activate the vtc I believe, and the solenoids open/close the galleries.
I jumped into this without thinking about engine management after I was done building it... LOL
I still got the DE cams laying around, so without the HR cams, then you think I'd be OK without EU? of course then I'd need to re-adjust valve lash for the DE cams which was a TOTAL PITA...
Also, when I got the motor, the DE cams did not have spacers, which knocks the timing chain out of square by about 1/8" or so with the crank sprocket...and the guy I bought it from didn't seem to have any issues...do I really need the spacers? The spacers are what's halting me atm..
Anyone recommend a perfect power smt7 or smt8?
To do a full swap, I think I'd also need the HR vtc cam gears, unless the DE cam gears would work...Then I'd need HR harness so that the exhaust cams would be able to send signals along with the intake cams. I'd also need an HR outer timing cover, (I think that the de and hr inner timing cover are pretty much identical?) which has dual vtc solenoids on both intake and exhaust cams, and the harness and all the other stuff...That's a lot...or is it? It's all about the oil galleries on these covers that activate the vtc I believe, and the solenoids open/close the galleries.
I jumped into this without thinking about engine management after I was done building it...
LOLI still got the DE cams laying around, so without the HR cams, then you think I'd be OK without EU? of course then I'd need to re-adjust valve lash for the DE cams which was a TOTAL PITA...
Also, when I got the motor, the DE cams did not have spacers, which knocks the timing chain out of square by about 1/8" or so with the crank sprocket...and the guy I bought it from didn't seem to have any issues...do I really need the spacers? The spacers are what's halting me atm..
Anyone recommend a perfect power smt7 or smt8?
04-30-2012, 04:15 AM
#39
I had a chance to buy a perfect power smt7 a week or so ago for only $40 but it fell through.
What kind of damage will running the engine without further engine management cause? The valves don't hit the pistons...
04-30-2012, 05:45 AM
#40
Just use those HR cams dont pull them for the sake of a tuning issue that can be fixed. And in anycase that compression mean no matter what cams you put in there its going to be effy to drive the car until its tuned.