maximelt's all time build NA VQ35DE/HR hybrid
04-30-2012, 06:28 AM
#41
update: I just read http://www.vqpower.com/images/howto/...xEUWriteup.pdf
and it makes it a lot easier to grasp.
Last edited by Maximeltman; 04-30-2012 at 03:24 PM.
05-09-2012, 05:27 PM
#42
I just put the cam spacers on-how much of the camshaft is supposed to be sticking out of the smaller intake timing sprockets for the big timing gears to be centered on? I only had about .5 mm or so which is almost nothing! Machinist made them about .105" thick or 2.6 mm which is less than the 3mm spacers Stephenmax makes...
05-11-2012, 08:53 PM
#43
I had it all together but it wouldn't turn over by hand after I put the fron timing cover on-the camshaft sensor was getting caught on the intake cam gear's sinals...Did I do something wrong? This is after installation of the 2.6mm cam spacers. It shouldn't have pushed the cam gears out enough to catch on the sensor, right? Or do I need to put a washer on the sensor to back it out a bit?
05-18-2012, 07:18 AM
#46
The engine is put back together for the most part, can anyone just chime in to help a brotha out LOL... I assume it will be OK as it is, but the key word in assume is A$$, and I don't want to install the motor only to find out it won't run .
05-24-2012, 12:12 PM
#47
Can someone throw up a pic of the stock 3.0 secondary cam gears? I just need to see what they look like, and yes I've tried googling the pics to no avail...I just need to see the thickness of them, thanks!
05-25-2012, 01:43 PM
#48
this: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...st-3-days.aspx
We changed the water flow around to mimic what Nissan has done on the latest variants of the VQ engine, the VQ35HR and the VQ37VHR. In these engines, the water comes up from the block around each individual cylinder by the hotter exhaust valves and then out to the radiator. This is done by using the head gaskets for these engines. The blocks water passages must also be enlarged in the area near the bores so the passages in the new gaskets line up with the ones in the block. The revised water flow significantly improves cooling on older VQ engines, essential for ones seeing higher boost.
We changed the water flow around to mimic what Nissan has done on the latest variants of the VQ engine, the VQ35HR and the VQ37VHR. In these engines, the water comes up from the block around each individual cylinder by the hotter exhaust valves and then out to the radiator. This is done by using the head gaskets for these engines. The blocks water passages must also be enlarged in the area near the bores so the passages in the new gaskets line up with the ones in the block. The revised water flow significantly improves cooling on older VQ engines, essential for ones seeing higher boost.
05-25-2012, 02:25 PM
#49
Well yeah you have to use a different gasket. Any time you get this far into the engine it's a no brainier to do it imo.
Throw on the PF cooling mod if you are going to track the car and you should be in good shape.
Throw on the PF cooling mod if you are going to track the car and you should be in good shape.
06-13-2012, 10:43 AM
#52
07-03-2012, 11:25 PM
#53
OK I have been searching but could not find info, I know I have seen /read it on here before, but will the 09 altima lower intake manifold fit on the 03 maxima heads, in case I want to try to run the 09 altima intake?
07-05-2012, 08:28 AM
#55
Sooo you have a crazy/cool/awesome N/A build w/ 3.0 Electronics and you didn't even post in this thread?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post8507182
Shaaame.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post8507182
Shaaame.
07-05-2012, 09:10 AM
#56
Sooo you have a crazy/cool/awesome N/A build w/ 3.0 Electronics and you didn't even post in this thread?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post8507182
Shaaame.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post8507182
Shaaame.
I thought I did post in that MS thread!!
I guess the MS deal is already sealed up cuz there's 10 potential buyers...
But seriously, I didn't balance the crankshaft with the HR pistons, I'm hoping they weigh nearly the same as the DE pistons.
Also would like a bit more info if the 09 altima LIM will fit the 03 Max engine, I know I read something about it but now i can't find it!
07-05-2012, 01:24 PM
#57
HAHA aackshun, did you just actually grace my thread wit yo' prezence?
I thought I did post in that MS thread!!
I guess the MS deal is already sealed up cuz there's 10 potential buyers...
But seriously, I didn't balance the crankshaft with the HR pistons, I'm hoping they weigh nearly the same as the DE pistons.
Also would like a bit more info if the 09 altima LIM will fit the 03 Max engine, I know I read something about it but now i can't find it!
I thought I did post in that MS thread!!
I guess the MS deal is already sealed up cuz there's 10 potential buyers...
But seriously, I didn't balance the crankshaft with the HR pistons, I'm hoping they weigh nearly the same as the DE pistons.
Also would like a bit more info if the 09 altima LIM will fit the 03 Max engine, I know I read something about it but now i can't find it!
07-05-2012, 02:27 PM
#59
That would be somewhere in my Nitrous thread http://forums.maxima.org/nitrous/614...-new-post.html - about how I installed the '08 Altima LIM and UIM on my 3.5. This is not a simple thing to do - but mine works. Only thing I would do different is use the '10 Maxima plastic UIM instead of the Altima plastic manifold. The plenum is larger on the Maxima part. Courtesy Nissan has the parts available, and prices are pretty reasonable.
looks like there was problems with the Altima LIM's compatability with the Maxima's heads...Machine work done to meke them fit. I'll just use my stock 3.5 manifold.
Has anyone hacked an extra bit of space on the stock aluminum manifold for more plenum volume?
07-08-2012, 01:20 PM
#61
3.5 throttle body hybrid
I had an electrical tb for a 3.5 so I decided to get started on the cable-driven conversion. It started out simple enough, I was just gonna throw on the cable plate from the 3.0, and I was fine with losing cruise control, but then I decided to take it a step further and I hammered out the 3.0/3.5 throttle body shafts and swapped them, the 3.0 is longer and has room to fit the cc cable plate. It took some tinkering and I had to cut the 3.0 throttle shaft's throttle plate slot to fit the 3.5's larger throttle plate. Then I just reused the 3.5 main coil spring to make the entire assembly close. Then I was able to fit the cc cable plate.
How much air is supposed to be able to get into the engine while at idle? I banged the 3.5 plate and it kinda distorted a little bit around the top. Here is a photo of it:
Is this ok, or does it need to be more closed?
How much air is supposed to be able to get into the engine while at idle? I banged the 3.5 plate and it kinda distorted a little bit around the top. Here is a photo of it:
Is this ok, or does it need to be more closed?
07-11-2012, 09:50 PM
#64
Motor is going in soon next day or two, I pulled two types of spark plugs from the engine but now that I'm running the HR pistons what spark plug should I get? I know probably NGK plats, but what model? Three PLFR5A is what came out the engine, along with three BKR5EGP. Any input? I was thinking of just buying three more of the PLFR5A's and callin it a day.
07-14-2012, 07:51 AM
#65
pulled the tranny and diff is out the trans, gonnal pull the old bearings man are they ****ed up! and put new ones in, shim it then swap the motor. I'm thinking of using this with the safc or vafc:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INNOVATE-LC-...0bb0eb&vxp=mtr
I'll try to get more pics posted!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INNOVATE-LC-...0bb0eb&vxp=mtr
I'll try to get more pics posted!
07-24-2012, 08:03 PM
#67
OK I got the 3.0 out!!!! Finally, in this crazy hot weather 
I really hope that I didnt break any internal wires in that harness. I have a 99 ecu, I found a 95 5spd ecu that i could get for cheap, just debating whether or not to go that route because I read there's lots of codes using the 99 ecu.
I still haven't decided what engine management to go with, I am hoping the MS deal aackshun puts together comes through..
I didn't redrill the HR cams at all because they seemed pretty close to the stock 3.0 cams. I gotta get the 3.5 in soon, I hope that the stock ecu fuel map will work for a little while. I'll try to get some pics for you guys soon, I know I said in my last post but I start sweating just by standing in the garage for 5 minutes. I also think I will replace my input shaft bearings in my transmission because I get that whirring noise when the clutch pedal isn't pressed down
I really hope that I didnt break any internal wires in that harness. I have a 99 ecu, I found a 95 5spd ecu that i could get for cheap, just debating whether or not to go that route because I read there's lots of codes using the 99 ecu.
I still haven't decided what engine management to go with, I am hoping the MS deal aackshun puts together comes through..
I didn't redrill the HR cams at all because they seemed pretty close to the stock 3.0 cams. I gotta get the 3.5 in soon, I hope that the stock ecu fuel map will work for a little while. I'll try to get some pics for you guys soon, I know I said in my last post but I start sweating just by standing in the garage for 5 minutes. I also think I will replace my input shaft bearings in my transmission because I get that whirring noise when the clutch pedal isn't pressed down
08-27-2012, 08:57 PM
#68
(dusts the cobwebs off the walls)
Hey all, I haven't been posting lately, but I'm pleased to report that I got the swap in and just need to hook up intake and fuel and should be able to start. I just did compression test and looks healthy, around 180-185 each cylinder
Also, my copper tubes are bringing oil to the top so oil pump is working good!
I'll post some pics soon, gotta go to sleep!
Hey all, I haven't been posting lately, but I'm pleased to report that I got the swap in and just need to hook up intake and fuel and should be able to start. I just did compression test and looks healthy, around 180-185 each cylinder
Also, my copper tubes are bringing oil to the top so oil pump is working good!
I'll post some pics soon, gotta go to sleep!
09-16-2012, 04:18 AM
#69
IT STARTED!!!
First turn of the key and VROOOMMMM..
Question: Is it supposed to have a 'warm-up' idle around 2k for the first min or two? because it starts and winds up to 2k and I didnt leave it on long enough to see if it would drop down to 650 because of fuel issues. I'm using a converted 3.5 TB,(doesn't have the temperature solenoid that controls the intake throttle plate like the 3.0 one has, 3.0 MAF, no IACV (no Adapter, but read that without it will only throw a CEL) and no o2 yet because the oem o2 heat welded to the headers.
I kinda have a cheap intake tube that I made from 45 degree silicon tubes, and I JB welded some ports for the breather hose/vaccuum.
First turn of the key and VROOOMMMM..
Question: Is it supposed to have a 'warm-up' idle around 2k for the first min or two? because it starts and winds up to 2k and I didnt leave it on long enough to see if it would drop down to 650 because of fuel issues. I'm using a converted 3.5 TB,(doesn't have the temperature solenoid that controls the intake throttle plate like the 3.0 one has, 3.0 MAF, no IACV (no Adapter, but read that without it will only throw a CEL) and no o2 yet because the oem o2 heat welded to the headers.
I kinda have a cheap intake tube that I made from 45 degree silicon tubes, and I JB welded some ports for the breather hose/vaccuum.
Last edited by Maximeltman; 09-16-2012 at 04:21 AM.
09-16-2012, 06:29 AM
#71
Does it still idle at 2k rpm until it warms up, or will it no longer do that?
09-16-2012, 05:46 PM
#72
Here is some pics of the breather hose. I believe that the prior owner of this engine was using that little port in the manifold for the iacv adapter.
When the hose is connected, I have high idle about 1500rpm.
When the hose is disconnected, the engine starts but only stays running for about a sec.
Here are pics of what I talk about:
Also, the fuel rail (2003) already has dampers on both sides, is one used as a return?
I know that the vq35de uses returnless fuel rail, but fuel comes out if its not clamped as shown:
Should I not be using the external adjustable fpr then, or should I remove that other damper on the exit of the fuel rail?
Heres just extra shot of the whole thing!
When the hose is connected, I have high idle about 1500rpm.
When the hose is disconnected, the engine starts but only stays running for about a sec.
Here are pics of what I talk about:
Also, the fuel rail (2003) already has dampers on both sides, is one used as a return?
I know that the vq35de uses returnless fuel rail, but fuel comes out if its not clamped as shown:
Should I not be using the external adjustable fpr then, or should I remove that other damper on the exit of the fuel rail?
Heres just extra shot of the whole thing!
Last edited by Maximeltman; 09-16-2012 at 05:51 PM.
09-16-2012, 08:25 PM
#73
That hose on the intake should be connected to the front valve cover.
The engine doesn't run with that 'iacv' port disconnected because its a major vacuum leak. So either plug it up or hook up your stock iacv to it.
The engine doesn't run with that 'iacv' port disconnected because its a major vacuum leak. So either plug it up or hook up your stock iacv to it.
09-17-2012, 04:12 AM
#74
I read that the iacv on 3.5 swap is only needed to prevent throwing errors, the engine can run fine without it, but on this engine its like its needed just to keep it running.
How is it supposd to stay at idle without iacv? And is idle supposed to drop after warm up, or does it just stay at one idle rpm regardless of engine temp?
09-19-2012, 05:01 AM
#77
Without the iacv adapter, I think the tb need to be considerably open to obtain a descent idle.
BTW, when I started it up for the first few times, I didnt have the upstream o2 sensors installed so it was prob running rich.
09-24-2012, 01:30 PM
#78
The car finally got driven yesterday!!
I cannot rev past 2500 rpm, and I'm pulling codes 15-5(says undefined?) 09-02 and 13-02, nothing MAF related. Also I have steam coming from the rad cap, so I bought a new one and it still steams a bit. The temp gauge on the dash seems to indicate normal temp, it's just a tiny bit more than laying flat. Any ideas on this?
BTW, I'm untuned right now, but will that affect my rpm cuttoff at 2.5k?
It feels like a sudden jerk when it hits 2.5k, and it bucks.
I also unplugged the MAF and started the car up and it was running richer than with it plugged in, so the maf is good I think.
I cannot rev past 2500 rpm, and I'm pulling codes 15-5(says undefined?) 09-02 and 13-02, nothing MAF related. Also I have steam coming from the rad cap, so I bought a new one and it still steams a bit. The temp gauge on the dash seems to indicate normal temp, it's just a tiny bit more than laying flat. Any ideas on this?
BTW, I'm untuned right now, but will that affect my rpm cuttoff at 2.5k?
It feels like a sudden jerk when it hits 2.5k, and it bucks.
I also unplugged the MAF and started the car up and it was running richer than with it plugged in, so the maf is good I think.
Last edited by Maximeltman; 09-25-2012 at 04:12 AM.
09-30-2012, 07:05 AM
#80
ok, so I'm running vq35de injectors, AFR stays around 14.7:1, but the spark plugs indicate that I'm running lean with too much timing advance. I'm using stock 1999 fuel pump. Also, I have No adjustable fpr because the rail apparently has an fpr built in. should I upgrade to at least DE-K injectors, or will the ones I have now be OK once it's tuned properly?