What's Wrong With This Picture ?
 

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y11...528_145737.jpg
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So here's the story, I had the motor replaced due to low compression on 2 cylinders. I bought a motor from a junkyard with 28k miles. On the "new" motor I decided to replace the tensioners and secondary chains, so I bought a timing chain kit that brings everything needed to do the job since it's a common problem. So I asked the mobile mechanic if knew how to do the timing chain job, and he sounded very confident that he could do the job. I thought I might as well do it now since the motor is out of the car. I tried to be there while he worked on the motor and motor swap as much as I could, but I couldn't be there 100% of the time due to work. I also got rid of the stock headers and put on ebay headers. The y-pipe on the headers would not line up so when the mechanic fired up the car it was obviously really loud. I couldn't really hear that something was off because of the noise, and I thought it sounded like a normal car with open headers (loud rumble, few backfires). Long story short, I towed the car to a muffler shop to have the y-pipe modified. Early this morning on my way to pick up the car I was stoked that I was finally going to have my car back after almost of 2 months of not driving it. I turn on the car and it rumbles but not as loud, and it has major misfire/backfire. I call the mechanic almost 30 times, he doesn't pick up. Now I don't know what to do. I believe the timing is off. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I don't really know, but I don't think that the marks on the intake gears are matched up with each other? Are there timing marks on the chain? I see a black link on the second bank.

The tesnioners need to be pressurized with oil after the timing job. Done by putting in oil, unplugging the injectors and taking out the spark plugs and crank the car for some time. I had same issue, where i assembled everything and started, only to get timing jump in bank 1.

If timing is off, you should get a CEL for P1110 bank 1 or the other code for bank 2 if its skipped on the main chain. If it skipped on the small chain, that would not trigger a CEL but car would run like crap with obvious power loss.

On the main chain there are two darker links. On the left bank you can see that the dark link is lined up to the grooved line on the sprocket. On the other side its hard to tell but it also looks like they are lined up. At the crank there also appears to be a gold link and now that I look at it, it does not look like it's lined up to the painted groove. Also I noticed that the dimples on the larger sprockets are pointed at random directions. I don't know if those need to be facing each other or what. It's very frustrating that this is happening, this guy disappeared and he's not answering any of my calls or calls made with other phones. In total this has cost me $2.2k cash and its very depressing that it was not done right. :bawling:

Dimples on the sprocket aren't used at timing marks. The grooves are.

Oh I didn't know about pressurizing the tensioners.

Do you see anything wrong in those pix?

I remember that after starting the car, the CEL light was flashing and when I told him to get his scanner to see why it was flashing, it stopped flashing and he didn't scan it. At the time it seemed a little weird that he decided to not scan it just because it had stopped flashing. But at the time I was excited that the car even started.

So do the tesioners somehow retain this oil pressure after turning the car off and it sits for some time? I'd think they'd lose pressure somehow...

Oil pump is mechanical, the oil stays in its passages once the car is turned off. Besides, the way the tensioner is designed inside, its very hard to press out the oil out of the tensioner, if you done the timing job. Once you press that oil out of the tensioner, its very easy to move.

I see nothing wrong in 3 images, i cant see the crank mark corresponding to the crank mark, but it looks rightish. It also depends if the chain was tight between the crank and the bank 2 sprocket, you need to take any slack from that area and put it where the main tensioner is.

Success!! It ended up being cylinder's 1 and 3 coil pack harness connectors were crossed. So cylinder #1 was getting fuel at the correct time but then it would get spark at #3's time, and same with cylinder #3, causing the unburnt fuel to ignite at the wrong time resulting in a loud "gunshot sound" since I have no cats. Thankfully it was not timing chain related.

Now I can't rev past 2.8k, but I think that is because I deleted the EGR system completely. I have to reconnect the two sensors from the EGR system to see if that fixes it. I already checked the MAF+Wiring and they are good.

Thanks to maximeltman and L36 for your quick responses and ideas.

Cant rev beyond 2.5K RPM can also be MAF sensor.

lol

:crusher:
Oi, quit pointing out my fail.