3.5 swap and keep 4at?
#1
3.5 swap and keep 4at?
I'm working on a 3.5 swap and about to drop ot in the car soon. I decided to keep the 4at and i'm looking into tq converters. I don't think a high stall is exactly what i want and everyone seems to be going that route. Will a tq converter from a 5at do the trick or do i have to go aftermarket?
#3
#6
#7
completely unrelated and i didnt want to start a new thread, but is there a 3.5 swap into a 95 max write up and if you could point me to the right direction? i used the search but i find a bunch of other random ones
Last edited by Maxidave?; 03-15-2013 at 06:40 AM.
#8
google works good too. only 3 or 4 kinds of cars would do a vq35 swap so if you searched you would find it..
#11
If you want a high-stall converter, then it's Edge, Level 10, or IPT. I've had Edge and IPT, and my last one from IPT is built for a hard-stall at 3000. Works fine for street use, too.
#12
I was told that the stock 4at converter would never hold up to a tuned 3.5 with minor upgrades. And edge racing is quite expensive seeing as how i could 5mt swap or something. I'll just keep looking around til i get enough money or i'll find a 5at converter and try it
#13
I was told that the stock 4at converter would never hold up to a tuned 3.5 with minor upgrades. And edge racing is quite expensive seeing as how i could 5mt swap or something. I'll just keep looking around til i get enough money or i'll find a 5at converter and try it
#14
The 5AT converter probably won't fit (with Nissan, that's a guess) but from personal experience you can race a cammed and SSIM 3.5 engine (with 150-shot of nitrous) with a 4AT and stock torque converter and do quite well. The 4AT transmission is the weak point - I went through a lot of them - the clutches and bands aren't up to it. I wanted to launch at higher RPMs so I first went to Andre at Edge and got a 2800-stall converter built, which worked fine on the street and highway.
#15
One launching trick I remember from the stock converter days is that you lock the brakes, tap the throttle hard and back off to app. 1000, then when it's time to launch you smack the throttle pedal about half way down - wait till the car gets moving and gradually roll into the throttle up to WOT. This keeps the ignition advance up higher and gives more midrange power. Going WOT makes the ECU revert to the standard advance and slows you down. This takes some practice but works well on the 3.5 - which has lots more low-end grunt than a 3.0.
Last edited by grey99max; 03-21-2013 at 11:11 AM.
#17
i actually noticed the same thing on the 3.0 when i brake boost^^^
And yes I'd rather just stay auto at least until I have a second DD. I can't have my car down for days or weeks trying to tackle 2 projects at once. Maybe eventually I'll go 5 speed, but no time soon.
And yes I'd rather just stay auto at least until I have a second DD. I can't have my car down for days or weeks trying to tackle 2 projects at once. Maybe eventually I'll go 5 speed, but no time soon.
#19
One launching trick I remember from the stock converter days is that you lock the brakes, tap the throttle hard and back off to app. 1000, then when it's time to launch you smack the throttle pedal about half way down - wait till the car gets moving and gradually roll into the throttle up to WOT. This keeps the ignition advance up higher and gives more midrange power. Going WOT makes the ECU revert to the standard advance and slows you down. This takes some practice but works well on the 3.5 - whick has lots more low-end grunt than a 3.0.
This is the same technique I use at the track with my 99' auto I30. I pull consistent 2.22-2.24 60 foot times. Street tires @ 22 psi, SRI are the only mods. Race weight with me in the car is 3405 pounds.
Andy
#20
#25
wow nice^^ I'm probably going to go aftermarket and play around with my options for a little bit. Hopefully save up some money for the rest of the drivetrain swap and possibly the MS PnP.
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