3.5 swap problems- No fuel, no spark
02-10-2014, 06:06 AM
#1
3.5 swap problems- No fuel, no spark
I finally got around to installing oTranscendental's old 3.5 from his 97 Maxima into my car, and we're having some problems getting it running.
The details:
My car is a 1996 I30
The motor is from an 02/03 Maxima
The wiring harness came directly off of his 97 SE and was never unplugged from the 3.5
The clutch/flywheel are from a 3.0 5th gen (have ACT as backup)
ECUs available are stock I30, JWT 96 Maxima, and TS 96 Maxima
My car has a Clifford 3.5 RS alarm with remote start
He had the swap for about 4 years and it ran great the whole time putting down a 13.6 and over 240 whp. NWP VIAS block-off plate installed.
After getting everything in and a bunch of vacuum lines fixed, we tried to fire it up and got no fuel pressure and no spark. If it was just one or the other, we would think we just missed hooking something up, but with it being both, we're thinking it might have something to do with the alarm system. The alarm has one wire going into the harness at the ECU, but even after reconnecting it we had no luck. The alarm is acting normal and will lock and unlock the car, so I'm not so sure that's the problem.
There are a few sensors on the 3.5 that aren't plugged into anything, but I'm pretty sure they're all related to the VTC/VIAS stuff that's disabled. However there is one plug coming off the harness that looks like a spare coil pack plug that we're unsure of. Can anyone look at my pics and see if something isn't looking right?
Here's the spare plug that looks like it's for a coil pack
This guy isn't plugged into anything
I'm assuming this plug was for the VIAS?
I'm pretty sure this was for VTC...
I'm less sure about this one
At this point the only thing we can think of is a pinched wire somewhere. Can anyone think of some areas to check? Thank you!
The details:
My car is a 1996 I30
The motor is from an 02/03 Maxima
The wiring harness came directly off of his 97 SE and was never unplugged from the 3.5
The clutch/flywheel are from a 3.0 5th gen (have ACT as backup)
ECUs available are stock I30, JWT 96 Maxima, and TS 96 Maxima
My car has a Clifford 3.5 RS alarm with remote start
He had the swap for about 4 years and it ran great the whole time putting down a 13.6 and over 240 whp. NWP VIAS block-off plate installed.
After getting everything in and a bunch of vacuum lines fixed, we tried to fire it up and got no fuel pressure and no spark. If it was just one or the other, we would think we just missed hooking something up, but with it being both, we're thinking it might have something to do with the alarm system. The alarm has one wire going into the harness at the ECU, but even after reconnecting it we had no luck. The alarm is acting normal and will lock and unlock the car, so I'm not so sure that's the problem.
There are a few sensors on the 3.5 that aren't plugged into anything, but I'm pretty sure they're all related to the VTC/VIAS stuff that's disabled. However there is one plug coming off the harness that looks like a spare coil pack plug that we're unsure of. Can anyone look at my pics and see if something isn't looking right?
Here's the spare plug that looks like it's for a coil pack
This guy isn't plugged into anything
I'm assuming this plug was for the VIAS?
I'm pretty sure this was for VTC...
I'm less sure about this one
At this point the only thing we can think of is a pinched wire somewhere. Can anyone think of some areas to check? Thank you!
02-10-2014, 10:50 AM
#4
I should have also mentioned that we tried all three ECUs and none of them changed anything.
It's been a while since I've read the 3.5 swap how-tos, but are there any wiring changes done to the harness? Meaning, could I put in my stock 96 I30 harness back in and replace his 97 Maxima harness without having to rewire anything? My harness had some rewiring done to accommodate the DEK injectors, but was pretty stock aside from that IIRC.
Last edited by 95maxrider; 02-10-2014 at 10:54 AM.
02-10-2014, 12:11 PM
#5
Is there any reason why you didn't use your original harness? Only real modifications a 4th gen harness needs for a 3.5 is injector clips and making it fit around the uim. IMO using someone elses harness only adds another variable to the equation.
Are you sure that the fuel lines are hooked up to your afpr properly? The dek fpr and return fitting can be used on the 3.5 fuel rail if you'd like to retain a return fuel system.
IVT Solenoid
Looks like an o2 sensor plug.
Cam sensor
Cam sensor
Are you sure that the fuel lines are hooked up to your afpr properly? The dek fpr and return fitting can be used on the 3.5 fuel rail if you'd like to retain a return fuel system.
IVT Solenoid
Looks like an o2 sensor plug.
Cam sensor
Cam sensor
02-10-2014, 12:20 PM
#6
Is there any reason why you didn't use your original harness? Only real modifications a 4th gen harness needs for a 3.5 is injector clips and making it fit around the uim. IMO using someone elses harness only adds another variable to the equation.
Are you sure that the fuel lines are hooked up to your afpr properly? The dek fpr and return fitting can be used on the 3.5 fuel rail if you'd like to retain a return fuel system.
IVT Solenoid
Looks like an o2 sensor plug.
Cam sensor
Cam sensor
Are you sure that the fuel lines are hooked up to your afpr properly? The dek fpr and return fitting can be used on the 3.5 fuel rail if you'd like to retain a return fuel system.
IVT Solenoid
Looks like an o2 sensor plug.
Cam sensor
Cam sensor
We didn't hook up my old AFPR, we just threw in the FP gauge from my motor and retained the rest of what was on the 3.5. Is that bad?
As for the names of sensors, what is IVT? And the two that you list as cam sensors, do you mean for the VTC stuff? Because I thought the main cam sensor was on the PS of the block all by itself, which we have hooked up. I believe you can see it in the first pic with the IVT.
Thank you!!
02-10-2014, 05:57 PM
#7
I just figured using his harness would be the easiest way to get it started, but now I'm considering reconfiguring mine to simplify things down the road. So aside from the injector wiring and getting it to fit around the UIM, no other rewiring is necessary?
We didn't hook up my old AFPR, we just threw in the FP gauge from my motor and retained the rest of what was on the 3.5. Is that bad?
As for the names of sensors, what is IVT? And the two that you list as cam sensors, do you mean for the VTC stuff? Because I thought the main cam sensor was on the PS of the block all by itself, which we have hooked up. I believe you can see it in the first pic with the IVT.
Thank you!!
We didn't hook up my old AFPR, we just threw in the FP gauge from my motor and retained the rest of what was on the 3.5. Is that bad?
As for the names of sensors, what is IVT? And the two that you list as cam sensors, do you mean for the VTC stuff? Because I thought the main cam sensor was on the PS of the block all by itself, which we have hooked up. I believe you can see it in the first pic with the IVT.
Thank you!!
Well that depends on how the previous owner ran his fuel setup. Which fpr/dampers are on your 3.5 right now? Are you using a return or returnless setup?
IVT is Intake Valve Timing, which is the variable cam timing as listed in the FSM. The VQ35 uses those two cam sensors on each head (which in effect is used to monitor IVT on each bank) whereas the VQ30 only uses a single cam sensor on the timing cover.
02-10-2014, 07:21 PM
#8
I don't recall having to do any other rewiring on my swap since all of the 3.0 sensors were retained.
Well that depends on how the previous owner ran his fuel setup. Which fpr/dampers are on your 3.5 right now? Are you using a return or returnless setup?
IVT is Intake Valve Timing, which is the variable cam timing as listed in the FSM. The VQ35 uses those two cam sensors on each head (which in effect is used to monitor IVT on each bank) whereas the VQ30 only uses a single cam sensor on the timing cover.
Well that depends on how the previous owner ran his fuel setup. Which fpr/dampers are on your 3.5 right now? Are you using a return or returnless setup?
IVT is Intake Valve Timing, which is the variable cam timing as listed in the FSM. The VQ35 uses those two cam sensors on each head (which in effect is used to monitor IVT on each bank) whereas the VQ30 only uses a single cam sensor on the timing cover.
02-11-2014, 06:48 AM
#9
Alright, so my mechanic spent 10 hours going over every wire yesterday and couldn't find a single problem aside from the rear O2 sensor not being connected, and we're now out of ideas. I was starting to think that I should throw my harness in the car and wire it up for the 3.5, but I feel like I should keep in intact and ready to work on my DEK in case this doesn't work out for some reason. Since my two modded ECUs are from 96 Maximas, I was thinking I should pick up a 95/96 Maxima harness and install that in the car instead and work off of that. What do you guys think? It sounds like the only wires that would need to be spliced are the injector wires and the TPS wires. Am I thinking this through correctly?
I am in the DC area if anyone is willing to help. I will make it worth your time!
I am in the DC area if anyone is willing to help. I will make it worth your time!
02-11-2014, 08:32 AM
#10
Why would your tps wires need to be spliced? What tb are you running?
No spark sounds to me like either a cam/crank sensor or a grounding issues. Was the engine/tranny mating surface sanded down? Were all grounds reconnected? Alternator, injector, and main ground that runs from the battery to the head come to mind.
The lack of fuel pressure seems to me like the feed and return fuel lines are reversed, but thats a shot in the dark until we find out how your fuel lines were run.
02-11-2014, 08:40 AM
#11
If you could take a picture of how your fuel lines are run, we can probably figure it out from there.
Why would your tps wires need to be spliced? What tb are you running?
No spark sounds to me like either a cam/crank sensor or a grounding issues. Was the engine/tranny mating surface sanded down? Were all grounds reconnected? Alternator, injector, and main ground that runs from the battery to the head come to mind.
The lack of fuel pressure seems to me like the feed and return fuel lines are reversed, but thats a shot in the dark until we find out how your fuel lines were run.
Why would your tps wires need to be spliced? What tb are you running?
No spark sounds to me like either a cam/crank sensor or a grounding issues. Was the engine/tranny mating surface sanded down? Were all grounds reconnected? Alternator, injector, and main ground that runs from the battery to the head come to mind.
The lack of fuel pressure seems to me like the feed and return fuel lines are reversed, but thats a shot in the dark until we find out how your fuel lines were run.
Apparently the 3.5 has the 3.0 TB on it. Is that common, or do most go 3.5 TB?
All grounds should have been reconnected.
The 3.5 fuel system was converted to returnless and the only change made was to put in my FP gauge to check pressure. The gauge is a simple tee and shouldn't affect anything as far as we can tell.
02-11-2014, 10:20 AM
#12
I'll take pics after I get it towed home
Apparently the 3.5 has the 3.0 TB on it. Is that common, or do most go 3.5 TB?
All grounds should have been reconnected.
The 3.5 fuel system was converted to returnless and the only change made was to put in my FP gauge to check pressure. The gauge is a simple tee and shouldn't affect anything as far as we can tell.
Apparently the 3.5 has the 3.0 TB on it. Is that common, or do most go 3.5 TB?
All grounds should have been reconnected.
The 3.5 fuel system was converted to returnless and the only change made was to put in my FP gauge to check pressure. The gauge is a simple tee and shouldn't affect anything as far as we can tell.
Once your fuel line comes off of the fuel filter where does it go? To the regulator side of the rail, or the side with out the regulator? I have mixed up the fuel lines before and the car will not start. The fuel line should go on the side of the rail with out the regulator. Also the first plug you posted that has the slack taped up....does that not go to the crank sensor on the side of the transmission below where the slave cylinder is? If that's un plugged then your car will not start.
*also, have you checked your fuses? If you popped something while hooking things up you could have an issue too. Look at the fuel pump and ignition stuff*
**one other thing....are your injector grounds hooked up? That's something else that is easy to forget that will mess you up**
02-11-2014, 10:24 AM
#13
Once your fuel line comes off of the fuel filter where does it go? To the regulator side of the rail, or the side with out the regulator? I have mixed up the fuel lines before and the car will not start. The fuel line should go on the side of the rail with out the regulator. Also the first plug you posted that has the slack taped up....does that not go to the crank sensor on the side of the transmission below where the slave cylinder is? If that's un plugged then your car will not start.
*also, have you checked your fuses? If you popped something while hooking things up you could have an issue too. Look at the fuel pump and ignition stuff*
*also, have you checked your fuses? If you popped something while hooking things up you could have an issue too. Look at the fuel pump and ignition stuff*
All fuses and relays were checked, and the fuel pump is getting power.
Thanks for the help everyone!!
02-11-2014, 10:33 AM
#14
also, something else worth noting. I'm not sure if it was just used for testing or if it's your actual fuel line but the wrong kind of hose is hooked up to the fuel gauge. That's just normal fuel line made for low psi stuff...for our cars and any other fuel injected car you need fuel injection hose. I have made this mistake before and the hose has burst....it was really nice
02-11-2014, 11:30 AM
#15
also, something else worth noting. I'm not sure if it was just used for testing or if it's your actual fuel line but the wrong kind of hose is hooked up to the fuel gauge. That's just normal fuel line made for low psi stuff...for our cars and any other fuel injected car you need fuel injection hose. I have made this mistake before and the hose has burst....it was really nice
02-11-2014, 02:04 PM
#16
I'll take pics after I get it towed home
Apparently the 3.5 has the 3.0 TB on it. Is that common, or do most go 3.5 TB?
All grounds should have been reconnected.
The 3.5 fuel system was converted to returnless and the only change made was to put in my FP gauge to check pressure. The gauge is a simple tee and shouldn't affect anything as far as we can tell.
Apparently the 3.5 has the 3.0 TB on it. Is that common, or do most go 3.5 TB?
All grounds should have been reconnected.
The 3.5 fuel system was converted to returnless and the only change made was to put in my FP gauge to check pressure. The gauge is a simple tee and shouldn't affect anything as far as we can tell.
http://forums.maxima.org/8773525-post21.html
02-12-2014, 06:16 AM
#17
Alrighty well I got the car towed home last night and took some pics in the dark. Let me know if anything pops out at you. Thanks everyone!
FP gauge and line
You can trace the fuel line under the intake and over to the filter
3.0 TB, right? What are you PF TB guys doing for throttle cable brackets and adapters?
What is this guy? I assume it's emissions related. Do I need to keep the hoses?
And what is the big thing in the back with the two huge hoses coming off it?
Passenger side
Injectors/coil packs
Random wires
FP gauge and line
You can trace the fuel line under the intake and over to the filter
3.0 TB, right? What are you PF TB guys doing for throttle cable brackets and adapters?
What is this guy? I assume it's emissions related. Do I need to keep the hoses?
And what is the big thing in the back with the two huge hoses coming off it?
Passenger side
Injectors/coil packs
Random wires
Last edited by 95maxrider; 02-12-2014 at 06:21 AM.
02-12-2014, 06:28 AM
#18
The fuel line is hooked up to the correct side of the fuel rail assuming that, its coming from the fuel filter. The fuel runs though some hard lines under the T/B area and can be hard to follow. So double check that.
Is that just a fuel pressure test gauge? Is there a check valve in it? If so are you sure the tester is installed in the correct direction?
Didn't you say that you directly applied 12 volts to your fuel pump and you still did not get pressure....if you did then that's a problem.
*What about your ground that goes from the battery area to the little post that sticks out on the block....close to where the transmission and block meet on the radiator side of the engine?*
Is that just a fuel pressure test gauge? Is there a check valve in it? If so are you sure the tester is installed in the correct direction?
Didn't you say that you directly applied 12 volts to your fuel pump and you still did not get pressure....if you did then that's a problem.
*What about your ground that goes from the battery area to the little post that sticks out on the block....close to where the transmission and block meet on the radiator side of the engine?*
Last edited by cardana24; 02-12-2014 at 06:30 AM.
02-12-2014, 07:10 AM
#19
The fuel line is hooked up to the correct side of the fuel rail assuming that, its coming from the fuel filter. The fuel runs though some hard lines under the T/B area and can be hard to follow. So double check that.
Is that just a fuel pressure test gauge? Is there a check valve in it? If so are you sure the tester is installed in the correct direction?
Didn't you say that you directly applied 12 volts to your fuel pump and you still did not get pressure....if you did then that's a problem.
*What about your ground that goes from the battery area to the little post that sticks out on the block....close to where the transmission and block meet on the radiator side of the engine?*
Is that just a fuel pressure test gauge? Is there a check valve in it? If so are you sure the tester is installed in the correct direction?
Didn't you say that you directly applied 12 volts to your fuel pump and you still did not get pressure....if you did then that's a problem.
*What about your ground that goes from the battery area to the little post that sticks out on the block....close to where the transmission and block meet on the radiator side of the engine?*
The FP gauge is off my 3.0, but that's as much as I know about it. Maybe I will disconnect it and see what happens.
My mechanic said the fuel pump was getting power, but I'm not clear on how he figured that out. It doesn't sound like he did a hard wire to the battery though.
You're right about the engine block ground, I noticed that last night. I assume you mean this big guy over on the right? It looks like now it's going to the transmission. I need to go through some old photos and double check where all the big-3 grounds used to go. Can you see if the injector grounds are good?
02-12-2014, 07:39 AM
#20
The injector grounds look fine.
Can you hear your fuel pump when you switch the key on? Our fuel pumps are pretty loud. You can always pull the lower seat bottom portion out to help you hear is since that is where the access door is for the fuel pump.
*just a thought, but are you sure you ecu screw is not turned to diagnostic mode?*
Can you hear your fuel pump when you switch the key on? Our fuel pumps are pretty loud. You can always pull the lower seat bottom portion out to help you hear is since that is where the access door is for the fuel pump.
*just a thought, but are you sure you ecu screw is not turned to diagnostic mode?*
02-12-2014, 07:58 AM
#21
The injector grounds look fine.
Can you hear your fuel pump when you switch the key on? Our fuel pumps are pretty loud. You can always pull the lower seat bottom portion out to help you hear is since that is where the access door is for the fuel pump.
*just a thought, but are you sure you ecu screw is not turned to diagnostic mode?*
Can you hear your fuel pump when you switch the key on? Our fuel pumps are pretty loud. You can always pull the lower seat bottom portion out to help you hear is since that is where the access door is for the fuel pump.
*just a thought, but are you sure you ecu screw is not turned to diagnostic mode?*
I'll double check the ECU screw, but I doubt it's the problem since we tried all three ECUs to no avail. Keep the ideas coming!
02-12-2014, 08:51 AM
#22
Is it possible that the fuel hoses have just been reversed? I really need to get more detailed pictures. Still not sure on what could be keeping me from getting spark aside from a bad ground though.
Has anyone else redone their fuel system to match what Sleeper did in terms of removing the damper? Is that even necessary on NA cars?
This 3.5 swap how-to says an AFPR is necessary with the swap, but Darius never had one installed as far as I can tell. It says:
The Vq35 uses a returnless fuel system, and the 4th gen has a return system. The solution?
Get a tee and adjustable fuel pressure regulator ($25 shipped on eBay), and run the fuel lines like this:
..................... Adjustable FPR set to 52psi ----return line
................................|
Feed----fuel filter-----tee ----- fuel rail
Any thoughts on that?
Has anyone else redone their fuel system to match what Sleeper did in terms of removing the damper? Is that even necessary on NA cars?
This 3.5 swap how-to says an AFPR is necessary with the swap, but Darius never had one installed as far as I can tell. It says:
The Vq35 uses a returnless fuel system, and the 4th gen has a return system. The solution?
Get a tee and adjustable fuel pressure regulator ($25 shipped on eBay), and run the fuel lines like this:
..................... Adjustable FPR set to 52psi ----return line
................................|
Feed----fuel filter-----tee ----- fuel rail
Any thoughts on that?
Last edited by 95maxrider; 02-12-2014 at 08:54 AM.
02-12-2014, 10:20 AM
#23
Bad crank sensors can cause no spark. poor ground between the engine and transmission mating surface could need to be sanded and listen for the fuel pump inside the car to see if it's priming. pull off both return and feed fuel lines and see if there's gas in them could be backwards
02-12-2014, 12:00 PM
#24
Bad crank sensors can cause no spark. poor ground between the engine and transmission mating surface could need to be sanded and listen for the fuel pump inside the car to see if it's priming. pull off both return and feed fuel lines and see if there's gas in them could be backwards
02-12-2014, 05:34 PM
#26
Well shoot. Before the 3.5 was stored in a garage it was stored in a semi-covered trailer, and this is a trans I picked up at a junkyard which also sat in my driveway for a month or so before I moved inside, so both seem like they have the potential for some corrosion. I was really hoping I wouldn't have to remove anything big from the car....
02-12-2014, 11:34 PM
#29
All of my fuel pressure/spark issues on these motor swaps have boiled down to this....
-Bad grounding on the engine harness->Motor (it looks ghetto but should be working according the pics, you can do a better job IMO).
-Blown ECU fuse
-Fuel going in the wrong way (out was in and in was out, blah blah blah)
-Forgot to plug in the CPS
-Accidentally bolted the CPS subharness to the head via the headers.
-My favorite, and a local top 5 goof up of all time occured during the red car's 6mt swap: Forgetting to plug in the ECU
--- Yes, every time I'm missing fuel/spark/air I get a text saying "Did you plug in the ECU this time" damn near been 5 years, still aint let it go...
Dumb mistakes that have costed me from one night to days to figure out....
Now I'm just a lazy bastid who doesn't give a hoot about anything besides, driving to work and back
-Bad grounding on the engine harness->Motor (it looks ghetto but should be working according the pics, you can do a better job IMO).
-Blown ECU fuse
-Fuel going in the wrong way (out was in and in was out, blah blah blah)
-Forgot to plug in the CPS
-Accidentally bolted the CPS subharness to the head via the headers.
-My favorite, and a local top 5 goof up of all time occured during the red car's 6mt swap: Forgetting to plug in the ECU
--- Yes, every time I'm missing fuel/spark/air I get a text saying "Did you plug in the ECU this time" damn near been 5 years, still aint let it go...
Dumb mistakes that have costed me from one night to days to figure out....
Now I'm just a lazy bastid who doesn't give a hoot about anything besides, driving to work and back
Last edited by aackshun; 02-12-2014 at 11:38 PM.
02-13-2014, 12:24 AM
#30
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Inglewood up to no good
Posts: 131
My only problem was I didn't connect the CPS to the trans, so when I tried to start the car it wouldn't fire up. Once I connected the sensor it fired right up.
02-13-2014, 08:09 AM
#31
Why couldnt you jump a cable between the engine and tranny? I know it's not common but that would be completing the same circuit in theory.
OP you said the mech told you he gets power at the pump? He might have pulled the back seat and pulled the relay and tested there for voltage. And fuse under dash is in obviously and you swapped the cam and crank wires, there are two crank sensors and one cam sensor, maybe you swapped the wrong ones?
OP you said the mech told you he gets power at the pump? He might have pulled the back seat and pulled the relay and tested there for voltage. And fuse under dash is in obviously and you swapped the cam and crank wires, there are two crank sensors and one cam sensor, maybe you swapped the wrong ones?
02-13-2014, 10:41 PM
#32
Why couldnt you jump a cable between the engine and tranny? I know it's not common but that would be completing the same circuit in theory.
OP you said the mech told you he gets power at the pump? He might have pulled the back seat and pulled the relay and tested there for voltage. And fuse under dash is in obviously and you swapped the cam and crank wires, there are two crank sensors and one cam sensor, maybe you swapped the wrong ones?
OP you said the mech told you he gets power at the pump? He might have pulled the back seat and pulled the relay and tested there for voltage. And fuse under dash is in obviously and you swapped the cam and crank wires, there are two crank sensors and one cam sensor, maybe you swapped the wrong ones?
In theory yes it would be completing the circuit but the surface areas is different and still has a different grounding effect. A good contact on the mating surface area will give you MUCH less resistance due to the increased surface area whereas the resistance in the cable is much greater due to its smaller surface area or gauge size. Apparently this will cause no start issues and it has been seen on several maxima already. Its crazy to think that we can alter and use electricity effectively but we still can't explain or "see" how it really functions. Is it the travel of electrons? Or is it the travel of protons? Or both? We still don't know...
Last edited by deloa84; 02-13-2014 at 10:44 PM.
02-14-2014, 12:17 PM
#33
Thanks for the ideas aackshun! I'll give them a try when the snow melts. But why did this one cause a problem: Accidentally bolted the CPS subharness to the head via the headers....? Oh, and where is the ground for the harness to the motor that you say could be better? Is the ECU fuse a small one by your left knee or under the hood?
I still don't understand why the mating surface is so important as a ground, but I'll take it for what it is. 
Thanks for the ideas everyone, things are at a standstill right now as my car is surrounded by about a foot of snow. It should melt by next week, so I hope to have some updates then. You guys rock!!!
BTW- What are these 3.5 valve covers made of? Can I ground to them instead of the IM?
In theory yes it would be completing the circuit but the surface areas is different and still has a different grounding effect. A good contact on the mating surface area will give you MUCH less resistance due to the increased surface area whereas the resistance in the cable is much greater due to its smaller surface area or gauge size. Apparently this will cause no start issues and it has been seen on several maxima already. Its crazy to think that we can alter and use electricity effectively but we still can't explain or "see" how it really functions. Is it the travel of electrons? Or is it the travel of protons? Or both? We still don't know...
Thanks for the ideas everyone, things are at a standstill right now as my car is surrounded by about a foot of snow. It should melt by next week, so I hope to have some updates then. You guys rock!!!
BTW- What are these 3.5 valve covers made of? Can I ground to them instead of the IM?
Last edited by 95maxrider; 02-14-2014 at 12:32 PM.
02-14-2014, 01:31 PM
#35
Ok, that's what I thought. And yeah, I'm not so good with the electrical stuff, but I'm trying. I'll just have to take your word for it! I have just never heard or read that the surface was so important. Is this a Maxima specific thing? Because what about all the cars with painted blocks or trans cases? Sorry if that's a stupid question....
Last edited by 95maxrider; 02-14-2014 at 01:43 PM.
02-14-2014, 02:12 PM
#36
Here is what I used for my throttle body bracket. I used the evap bracket and I welded it to my cable holder. Not very pretty but its functional.
http://1drv.ms/1lPH1SF
http://1drv.ms/1lPH1SF
02-14-2014, 04:43 PM
#37
Here's one I just made for another member.
http://imgur.com/a/gi59x
On mine, I just used a strip of aluminum and bent it to fit.
http://imgur.com/a/gi59x
On mine, I just used a strip of aluminum and bent it to fit.
02-15-2014, 09:04 AM
#38
I ended up having to do a retarded number of grounding wires on my old '98 as it wouldn't start and if by chance it did start the car did not run right. I didn't want to pull the auto trans to clean the corrosion just something to keep it running as it wasn't my car at that point in time.
The 4th gens have an issue if the area between the engine block and transmission is corroded. The starter uses the transmission as the return (-)and starters draw over a 100+ amps when in use. So that causes a bit of voltage drop if there is resistance caused by that corrosion and the engine won't turn over or crank poorly (my car nowadays!!!). Anytime the trans is pulled off its a good idea to clean those areas up, my car is way overdue for this.
Anyways that solenoid that is hanging is the EVAP solenoid. The line that is broken off should go into the intake manifold but not having hooked up will only cause a CEL. That unplugged sensor with the yellow inside near the coolant hose looks like the MAP sensor. Those were installed near the plastic intake snorkus, again something that will cause a CEL, engine should still run.
The fuel setup looks a bit odd to me. I can't say for certain as I do not have any experience with these return less fuel setups.
Also another shot in the dark but the grounding bundle on that intake manifold. Does the intake manifold have a spacer between the upper and lower? Maybe attach that at a different point on the engine block or run a large wire from the main engine ground to that wire bundle, on my car that helped a bit.
Another point I think this swap came off the same car that had the SMT-6 installed on it that the guy could not get to work properly. Not sure if he swapped out the harness or re-spliced the wiring. If the crank sensor wiring is screwy you won't get spark.
The 4th gens have an issue if the area between the engine block and transmission is corroded. The starter uses the transmission as the return (-)and starters draw over a 100+ amps when in use. So that causes a bit of voltage drop if there is resistance caused by that corrosion and the engine won't turn over or crank poorly (my car nowadays!!!). Anytime the trans is pulled off its a good idea to clean those areas up, my car is way overdue for this.
Anyways that solenoid that is hanging is the EVAP solenoid. The line that is broken off should go into the intake manifold but not having hooked up will only cause a CEL. That unplugged sensor with the yellow inside near the coolant hose looks like the MAP sensor. Those were installed near the plastic intake snorkus, again something that will cause a CEL, engine should still run.
The fuel setup looks a bit odd to me. I can't say for certain as I do not have any experience with these return less fuel setups.
Also another shot in the dark but the grounding bundle on that intake manifold. Does the intake manifold have a spacer between the upper and lower? Maybe attach that at a different point on the engine block or run a large wire from the main engine ground to that wire bundle, on my car that helped a bit.
Another point I think this swap came off the same car that had the SMT-6 installed on it that the guy could not get to work properly. Not sure if he swapped out the harness or re-spliced the wiring. If the crank sensor wiring is screwy you won't get spark.
Last edited by 98SEBlackMax; 02-15-2014 at 09:17 AM.
02-15-2014, 10:58 AM
#39
I ended up having to do a retarded number of grounding wires on my old '98 as it wouldn't start and if by chance it did start the car did not run right. I didn't want to pull the auto trans to clean the corrosion just something to keep it running as it wasn't my car at that point in time.
The 4th gens have an issue if the area between the engine block and transmission is corroded. The starter uses the transmission as the return (-)and starters draw over a 100+ amps when in use. So that causes a bit of voltage drop if there is resistance caused by that corrosion and the engine won't turn over or crank poorly (my car nowadays!!!). Anytime the trans is pulled off its a good idea to clean those areas up, my car is way overdue for this.
Anyways that solenoid that is hanging is the EVAP solenoid. The line that is broken off should go into the intake manifold but not having hooked up will only cause a CEL. That unplugged sensor with the yellow inside near the coolant hose looks like the MAP sensor. Those were installed near the plastic intake snorkus, again something that will cause a CEL, engine should still run.
The fuel setup looks a bit odd to me. I can't say for certain as I do not have any experience with these return less fuel setups.
Also another shot in the dark but the grounding bundle on that intake manifold. Does the intake manifold have a spacer between the upper and lower? Maybe attach that at a different point on the engine block or run a large wire from the main engine ground to that wire bundle, on my car that helped a bit.
Another point I think this swap came off the same car that had the SMT-6 installed on it that the guy could not get to work properly. Not sure if he swapped out the harness or re-spliced the wiring. If the crank sensor wiring is screwy you won't get spark.
The 4th gens have an issue if the area between the engine block and transmission is corroded. The starter uses the transmission as the return (-)and starters draw over a 100+ amps when in use. So that causes a bit of voltage drop if there is resistance caused by that corrosion and the engine won't turn over or crank poorly (my car nowadays!!!). Anytime the trans is pulled off its a good idea to clean those areas up, my car is way overdue for this.
Anyways that solenoid that is hanging is the EVAP solenoid. The line that is broken off should go into the intake manifold but not having hooked up will only cause a CEL. That unplugged sensor with the yellow inside near the coolant hose looks like the MAP sensor. Those were installed near the plastic intake snorkus, again something that will cause a CEL, engine should still run.
The fuel setup looks a bit odd to me. I can't say for certain as I do not have any experience with these return less fuel setups.
Also another shot in the dark but the grounding bundle on that intake manifold. Does the intake manifold have a spacer between the upper and lower? Maybe attach that at a different point on the engine block or run a large wire from the main engine ground to that wire bundle, on my car that helped a bit.
Another point I think this swap came off the same car that had the SMT-6 installed on it that the guy could not get to work properly. Not sure if he swapped out the harness or re-spliced the wiring. If the crank sensor wiring is screwy you won't get spark.
Yes, the IM does have spacers, and relocating that ground is one of the first things I want to do. But with the plastic valve covers, I'm not sure where the best place to put it is. Anywhere on the block, right?
Yes, Darius had the SMT-6 on this but we removed it and checked all the connections around it, so I think we eliminated that as a potential problem, although it couldn't hurt to check the CPS wire.
02-15-2014, 11:36 AM
#40
Now that's a grounding explanation I can understand, thank you Joe!! That actually makes sense.
Yes, the IM does have spacers, and relocating that ground is one of the first things I want to do. But with the plastic valve covers, I'm not sure where the best place to put it is. Anywhere on the block, right?
Yes, Darius had the SMT-6 on this but we removed it and checked all the connections around it, so I think we eliminated that as a potential problem, although it couldn't hurt to check the CPS wire.
Yes, the IM does have spacers, and relocating that ground is one of the first things I want to do. But with the plastic valve covers, I'm not sure where the best place to put it is. Anywhere on the block, right?
Yes, Darius had the SMT-6 on this but we removed it and checked all the connections around it, so I think we eliminated that as a potential problem, although it couldn't hurt to check the CPS wire.
Anyways on my car I have that ground node hooked to the fuel rail because I have the DEK manifold and I am lazy, but I have some of Matt's old grounding kit and one of the wires runs from the main engine ground to that point. It needs a solid connection to ground, a lot of sensors are tied to that point. One of the problems with getting the SMT-6 to work was I had to run a large wire from that point and use that as my ECU/SMT-6 ground (SMT6 was ultra sensitive to ground loops for the sensors). Did that at some truck stop on my way to Maxus '05 because my car starting dying on the highway from that damn SMT6.
Crimp connections scare the **** out of me! From years of having to trouble shoot electrical problems anytime I worked on anything that was crimped I re-spliced all the wires myself. I use solder which isn't "by the book" but if done right it is a strong electrical connection. Solder isn't a good long term solution but for troubleshooting its easy. My car still has soldered connections and other kludges that have survived nearly a decade on a road course driven car.
