The Definitive Sound-Deadening Thread!!!
09-23-2008, 05:10 PM
#161
Just wanted to do a follow-up on the above post... I followed Housecor's write up for the rear deck and it was very helpful. I must say that if you have subs in your trunk (I have 2 10s), you should DEFINITELY do this. If you have the stock Bose sub, you should probably do it too. The rattle I heard on very low bass notes is now nearly totally gone. Makes my "system" much more enjoyable...I used to actually get embarassed when people heard the rattles. Even though it was a bit of a pain to rip the backseat and everything out, it definitely was worth doing in the end. I still have a problem with my rearview mirror though...I tried black electrical tape but it just fell off. Anybody have any good solutions for rearview mirror rattle?
11-28-2008, 07:31 PM
#172
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 699
Need your opinion: I've got a 99 i30, what's the most bang for your buck on getting rid of road noise? Budget.. 100-150. I was thinking second skin audio sludge in the wheel wells and Damplifier in the doors and maybe on the wheel wells with any left over. Thoughts?
11-30-2008, 10:44 AM
#173
Sludge and Damplifier do wonders for creating great in-cabin acoustics, but not a significant amount to reduce ambient noise.
11-30-2008, 09:36 PM
#174
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 699
Noise only? Save another $100, get 90sqft of Luxury Liner. Stay away from wheel wells, it won't buy you much. Hit the floor, doors, EVERYWHERE you can from the interior. Double up on the floor if possible.
Sludge and Damplifier do wonders for creating great in-cabin acoustics, but not a significant amount to reduce ambient noise.
Sludge and Damplifier do wonders for creating great in-cabin acoustics, but not a significant amount to reduce ambient noise.
01-11-2009, 09:52 PM
#175
Another opinion is needed... I recently picked up an Image Dynamics 8" sub (ID8v3-D4) and paired it with my MTX 421D. I had forgotten how much my rear deck rattles, and now it's infinitely worse! I've been looking at Cascade Audio's VB for the deck, but I'm not sure to pick up VB2 or VB2HD, and whether to deaden the top or the top and bottom of the rear deck. I'm leaning towards VB2 for the top only... Thoughts? And where's a good place online to go (beside Parts Express)?
01-29-2009, 10:34 AM
#177
Seriously? Damn! Did the vibrations at least quiet down some?
02-04-2009, 07:09 PM
#178
yes, it helped a lot. But when I turned it up there was no remedy. The deck would flex so much it would actually rattle against the back window. Even with all the added weight, it helped at lower volumes.
Keep in mind that I beat on my subs pretty hard. There is a portion of the rear deck (sheet metal) that has split where the trunk strut bars attach. The metal in the water channel (where you open the trunk) is also split. The sunroof and map light no longer work. Etc.... So it may be the level I listen to it at as well. But I hear this complaint all the time from Maxima owners.
Keep in mind that I beat on my subs pretty hard. There is a portion of the rear deck (sheet metal) that has split where the trunk strut bars attach. The metal in the water channel (where you open the trunk) is also split. The sunroof and map light no longer work. Etc.... So it may be the level I listen to it at as well. But I hear this complaint all the time from Maxima owners.
02-07-2009, 08:59 AM
#179
I have 50' of deadener, Please name in order the places I need to put it. I know rear deck/back wall, doors, B & C pillars. Will 50' be enough? I have components in all doors and 1-12 in the trunk.
02-07-2009, 11:49 AM
#181
04-08-2009, 02:12 PM
#185
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Quad Cities, IA
Posts: 78
I've had really good luck using this stuff from parts express:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=268-035
I have had best luck using a hot air gun and a rubber roller, It's $25-$28 (depending if it's on sale or not) for a 27"x40" sheet.
How does that compare to the price of the other products?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=268-035
I have had best luck using a hot air gun and a rubber roller, It's $25-$28 (depending if it's on sale or not) for a 27"x40" sheet.
How does that compare to the price of the other products?
05-04-2009, 07:40 PM
#188
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 11
I'm going to try FatMat (Rattle Trap), also. I bought the 100 sq ft. bulk kit and the floor and hood liners. Won't be able to install for about 3 weeks.
Last edited by jjacobs6; 05-04-2009 at 07:42 PM.
05-05-2009, 10:22 AM
#189
When doing the doors, do you remove the moisture barrier, apply the mat to the door and then replace the moisture barrier on top of the mat?
I haven't even opened the door so I don't know how the plastic film applies.
I haven't even opened the door so I don't know how the plastic film applies.
05-05-2009, 12:38 PM
#191
So you're saying don't use the moisture barrier at all (remove it) and apply deadener to both the inside of the door (sheet metal) and the inside of the door panel?
05-05-2009, 05:20 PM
#192
Yes, don't use the moisture barrier.
Apply deadener to the inside of the outer skin - you have to reach through the inside of the door to do this. Then apply deadener to the sheetmetal facing you when you remove the door panel. Careful not to cover the rods for the door trigger.
Apply deadener to the inside of the outer skin - you have to reach through the inside of the door to do this. Then apply deadener to the sheetmetal facing you when you remove the door panel. Careful not to cover the rods for the door trigger.
05-18-2009, 09:02 PM
#195
Worked with Dynomat extreme today.. seems like good stuff, I got it for free so cant complain. This stuff sticks really well and without a heat gun. I did my trunk lid so far. Still have to do the spare tire well area and rest of trunk. You guys all deaden your license plate?
05-19-2009, 06:46 AM
#198
