FormorAccordMan

iTrader: (3)

Today was a great day. I finaly got rid of my engine noise. After trying new grounding points and pulling my hair out trying to understand why this was happening, I finaly had the problem diagnosed. I went back to the dealer that sold me the amp and I was about to have it sent back to the company to have it looked at. On my way out of the place the head installer came and took a look at my install. He agreed that everything looked perfect. I told him that I was at my witts end. He then sat in the car and began revving the engine to hear the whine. He asked me where the crossovers were for my front stage. I told him that they were in the kick panels. A smile came to his face and he said- relocate them. There must be a computer or something that is too close and the whine is coming in through tthe crossovers. Went home and relocated the crossovers and sure enough the system was clean with no noise. I WAS A VERY HAPPY BOY!


CLIFFS- if your crossovers are in the kick panels and you have noise- move them to another location. Hope this helps someone else out there going crazy trying to find the source of their engine whine. They might have the same problem.

godlyone

where did you end up putting them?

95mtlMAXSE

I installed my cross-overs in the door panels with a little hot glue. My amp is not finished yet(tonight it will be) and i will let you guys know. Last time it was installed it was in my 95 and i had the rpm noise too. This time i told the guy it better not do it or i'll kick his @ss haha, but i was serious enough. I too would like to know where you put the cross overs

FormorAccordMan

iTrader: (3)

Well, I am eventually going to mount them under the seats. But the thing is, I did not have to move the one on the passanger side. Only the drivers side was moved. There is some sort of computer in the drivers side kick panel. As a temp fix just to get rid of the noise I moved it right in front of the fire wall by the steering column and velcro'd it. It was enough space to get rid of the noise. Yes it is a bit ghetto, but the noise is not there and the crossover does not interfere with anything...I may just leave it there. The system sounds godly. Another thing I noticed was that along with the noise disappearing, my clarity and seperation also increased. I don't know why, but I am thinking that there was some sort of magnetic field going on there and it was inhibiting the crossovers on the drivers side in some way. My system sounds more open now. I would never have guessed that the system was not putting out 100% except for the engine noise, but it does indeed sound alot more open now.

KyMan

iTrader: (2)

About a month after I put my amp in, I started getting alternator whine-turns out my alternator was slowly on its way out. It took several weeks for it to finally go, but once I got a new alternator the noise was gone.

Probably not an issue for you, but if someone is searching in the future it might help out.

FormorAccordMan

iTrader: (3)

I was getting the response "It's your alternator" as well. I will kepp my fingers crossed, as I do not have any noise at all anymore after relocating. I am a bit worried though as I my total rms wattage is 1300-1500. I plan on doing the big 3 in the future, I hope it will help. I do get a little dimming now, but nowhere near as much as before when my sub amp was class a/ab. Now I run class D for the sub and the headlight dimming situation has much improved. I know that our alternators were not designed to handle high current draw. Did you replace yours with a High amp model?

KyMan

iTrader: (2)

Nope. I just had mine rebuilt by a local shop (they said they put all new internals and only reused the casing-lifetime warranty).

I am only running a 4 channel bridged to run my front components. I have a sub amp, but just haven't cared enough to install it (and buy a sub) and take some of my trunk space (that I don't really use). I know what sub I would buy, but I'll won't be able to buy any more toys here in a few months, so I'm trying to save some money. Damn, maybe I should just buy the 12" IDv3. Maybe if I can find a good place to build a box.

I mounted my amp under my driver's seat (power). It fits nicely. I was too lazy to mount it in the trunk and run the wires the extra 5 feet to the rear of the seat.

FormorAccordMan

iTrader: (3)

that IDv3 whould sound great. WHat r you gonna feed it with? sealed or ported?I went with a 12w7 sealed and it sounds phenominal. Even with my trunk deadened it still wants to tear the car apart.

KyMan

iTrader: (2)

I thought about bridging the rears off my 4 channel, but my components sound a good bit better with the extra power. I have a Planet Audio D-class sitting around unused for the last year that's like 600rms@2ohms that I would use. Not sure what I'd do for box. Sealed is a ton easier for me to make, but if I could get a high quality ported box I'd probably do that (I'm just not sure how to figure out port length and dimensions and everything).

I'm afraid if I add the sub then I'll need to deaden the trunk and rear shelf and everything, and I don't really want to open that can of worms (probably selling the max sometime in the next year).

I don't need to be annoying with bass at stoplights anymore (I have a Ducati for that )

I'll probably just spend like $15 on home depot deadener and put a little on each door. Also try to get the little rattle out of the passenger's door and call it good.

So if anyone wants a Planet Audio amp for pretty cheap (it's 1 ohm stable too!) hit me up. It'd be nice to have 1 less thing to move around with me.