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Audio pro's check ""PROJECT REWIRE!"" and tell me if anything is wrong!!!
Ok, basically, i have the screen in, and i have the sub wired up....bad part= i have bose...so im taking all the bose speakers/amps out, and the bose fuse....and i baught new components for the front, and 2way speakers for the rear...also got a amp for them. am i missing something? or can i start "PROJECT REWIRE" lol...thanks audio guru's....
here is my paint of what im doing....thanks again http://i33.tinypic.com/wved8i.jpg also i know the sub amp has rem, i included sub amp bc im adding a distribution block thingy...but the sub and deck are already wired!!!! |
Your sub amp has no signal input.
What are the rear speakers for? |
no sub signal and no remote turn on. other than that you're golden, personal preferences aside.
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Originally Posted by BLACKonBLACK98
(Post 6648644)
no sub signal and no remote turn on. other than that you're golden, personal preferences aside.
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Originally Posted by eng92
(Post 6648614)
Your sub amp has no signal input.
What are the rear speakers for? |
You ARE getting the signal for your sub amp from the HU right?
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Try using a common ground for the two amps.
Also why the need for fuses in the rear? Preference? |
Originally Posted by nismos14
(Post 6648782)
You ARE getting the signal for your sub amp from the HU right?
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
(Post 6648829)
Try using a common ground for the two amps.
Why?:confused: Also why the need for fuses in the rear? Preference? |
Just in case a fuse blows in the rear ..creates a spark surround by nice carpet? Not likely, but I have never been a 'fuse in the rear' guy.
Common ground = less chance of loops. |
welll, im gonna have the main fuse up front, and those 2 extra fuses are just safety....and im not going to have it like....BOLTED to the carpet with cotton around it and lighter fluid accidently...which still wouldnt cause anything...because the fuse blows inside of the glass...which is also held down....and also has a case over it....which would also be mounted on the rear wall for easy access....
http://www.ba-electronics.com/images/fb2agu1.jpg thats one without the fuses in it.. http://www.ba-electronics.com/images/agu-fuse.jpg fuse is in the glass...the glass doesn't break when a fuse goes out... |
Your absolutely right, what was I thinking. I've never installed before and have never seen 'accidents'. Sorry for replying to your thread, I will leave now.
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Russianmax, don't doubt pearl. He has had much more experience than you ever will. Stop being a smart-alic in this forum. It won't turn out nicely for you.
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^^^---The Law has spoken. ;) :D And he is correct.
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Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
(Post 6648885)
Your absolutely right, what was I thinking. I've never installed before and have never seen 'accidents'. Sorry for replying to your thread, I will leave now.
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The point is you don't need one one in the rear at all. And a common ground is a much better solution to 2.
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When you talk about a common ground for the 2 amps, do you mean just to run the ground from each amp to the same point? Or is there more to it than that?
Sorry for the newbie needed clarification..... |
Originally Posted by kgallerie
(Post 6649010)
When you talk about a common ground for the 2 amps, do you mean just to run the ground from each amp to the same point? Or is there more to it than that?
Sorry for the newbie needed clarification..... |
you guys are hilarious. don says don't fuse in the rear and y'all jump on the bandwagon, knowing d**n well you're running a fused distro block.
now i'm not one to doubt don, i'm sure what he says works for him, but my stance is fuse every time you drop wire gauge. i also fuse for gauge and not current draw. wire has a lower ampacity the smaller the gauge so what might not blow the up front fuse could cause an unsafe voltage drop in the rear. it's science vs. real world experience, but that's how i have always done it, do it, and will continue to do so. |
looks good to me
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Originally Posted by BLACKonBLACK98
(Post 6649389)
you guys are hilarious. don says don't fuse in the rear and y'all jump on the bandwagon, knowing d**n well you're running a fused distro block.
now i'm not one to doubt don, i'm sure what he says works for him, but my stance is fuse every time you drop wire gauge. i also fuse for gauge and not current draw. wire has a lower ampacity the smaller the gauge so what might not blow the up front fuse could cause an unsafe voltage drop in the rear. it's science vs. real world experience, but that's how i have always done it, do it, and will continue to do so. :-p You don't know **** about my wiring, I don't have a fused distro, blow me. I've got two dedicated runs, no fuses except under the hood. :mad::D |
guys guys guys i am not trying to start arguements here!!! i just wanted some honest help! the extra distribution block with fuses was for safety so i wouldnt blow an amp or speaker or anything else....and i completely agree on the grounding in the same area........the org is not for drama its to help fellow maxima guys out! So cut out the stufff lol.....and tell me where should i put the distribution block in case of "accidents"
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Originally Posted by BLACKonBLACK98
(Post 6649389)
you guys are hilarious. don says don't fuse in the rear and y'all jump on the bandwagon, knowing d**n well you're running a fused distro block.
now i'm not one to doubt don, i'm sure what he says works for him, but my stance is fuse every time you drop wire gauge. i also fuse for gauge and not current draw. wire has a lower ampacity the smaller the gauge so what might not blow the up front fuse could cause an unsafe voltage drop in the rear. it's science vs. real world experience, but that's how i have always done it, do it, and will continue to do so. I have never been a fan, but not trying to make a right Vs wrong debate here either. Fuse at the battery and fuse at the amp has always worked for me without the addition (minimal) resistance. ;) |
Originally Posted by RuSSiAnMax415
(Post 6649520)
guys guys guys i am not trying to start arguements here!!!
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
(Post 6649558)
I'm not arguing whether proper or not, just whether needed or not. In his case I see no benefit except for it being more costly. Hell I myself am guilty of having one, then again I was unable to find a 4 output plus pass through for both power and ground without a fuse. :(
I have never been a fan, but not trying to make a right Vs wrong debate here either. Fuse at the battery and fuse at the amp has always worked for me without the addition (minimal) resistance. ;) |
my fuse block is wireless.
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Originally Posted by maxprivate
(Post 6651192)
my fuse block is wireless.
BTW ..Called ya last week. What's up? |
its done and wired...was a pain in the neck to finish but its done.....i kinda messed something up because the left front tweeter squeels to the sound of my gas pedal lol...i think its becuase i put the rca cable with that 1 wire......bleh...gonna redo it but not now...im so tired...sounds good tho...much better than bose.
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I fuse everything. Fuse up front, fuse before the rear battery, seperate fuse for each amp. ;)
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so what did i do wrong.....my front right tweeter is sqeeling to the noise of my car....to many wires on one side? mix up the wrong 2 wires? any1?
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Try moving the crossover that corresponds to that tweeter.
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Originally Posted by filtor1
(Post 6651935)
Try moving the crossover that corresponds to that tweeter.
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Originally Posted by RuSSiAnMax415
(Post 6651943)
i know this is a retarded question...but can u explain 2 me why that would play reason in sound?
The majority of the time the whine will be caused by a ground loop and can be eliminated by simply using a common ground or choosing a new common ground point. I assumed that you had used a common ground already and thought it may be beneficial as well as a time saver to rule out some type of random interference that may be caused by the crossover location. |
if anyone was curious...it was a bad rca cable....it all sounds crisp and clean now!
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i had some rcas go bad on me too!
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trial and error is the best teaching experience out there...
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