EDU: Detailing guide and how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less
11-19-2007, 09:33 PM
#1
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
EDU: Detailing guide and how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less
Since I have already received several PMs about how I detail cars, I thought I would post my detailing EDU that I wrote up for another board.
First, I'll tell you how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less. This does not include any polishing so this method won't correct any defects. However, if your car is in good condition already or you just want it clean and protected, this method is excellent.
Products you will need:
2 gallon capacity bucket
1 wash pad, I like to use chenille covered foam pads
4-5 16" x 16" microfiber towels
2-3 terry cloth or cotton towels
Wheel brush(s)
Tire protectant
Glass Cleaner
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine: http://www.ecocarcare.net/no-rinse-wash-shine.php
Optimum Car Wax: http://www.ecocarcare.net/car-wax.php
Steps:
1. Using a capful or approximately one half ounce of Optimum No Rinse (ONR), add it to one gallon of water in the bucket.
2. Clean your wheels, tires and fenderwells using the ONR mixture and your brushes, wipe dry with the terry cloth towels.
3. Dress the wheels and fenderwells with your tire dressing-and don't forget the fenderwells! Dirty fenderwells detract from an otherwise clean and shiny car!
The reason to do the wheels and fenderwells first is so when you apply the tire dressing, any overspray will be washed off the car during the washing step.
4. Empty out your bucket and refill with clean water, adding one half to one full ounce of ONR (less if relatively clean, more if really dirty).
5. Using a chenille covered foam pad or a wash mitt, wash one section of the car at a time and dry immediately using two microfiber towels, one for the first drying pass and making sure you leave a little moisture behind, use the other towel for a second drying pass. If you get the panel completely dry with the first towel, then don't go over it with the second towel because rubbing even a soft microfiber towel on dry paint can leave streaks.
Once you get the process down (it may take a couple washes to really nail it) you should be able to wash the body of your car in 20 minutes or less unless it is really filthy.
6. After washing open your doors, gas cap door and trunk or hatch and wipe down all the jambs.
7. Using Optimum Car Wax (OCW), spray onto a section at a time. Don't soak the panel, just a mist should do. Spread the wax over the panel, flip the towel and wipe to a haze free shine. If you can use a detail spray, you can use OCW, it is that easy. Depending on your area, wash habits, etc, you can expect 3-5 months durability. Honestly though, it is so easy to use you will probably use it every few washes. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to do the whole car. In fact, you can also apply it as you dry each section when washing with ONR to save even more time, or apply while washing and apply a second coat for even better protection with very little additional time spent.
8. Clean your glass inside and out.
Stand back and admire your shiny car! Take pics and post them on OT!
There are several vendors who carry Optimum products, the one I would recommend first is www.exceldetail.com because he ships very fast, has excellent customer service, is an all around nice guy and he also carries a fine selection of microfiber towels, the rest of the Optimum product line as well as Clearkote, Poorboys, 4 Star, Propel buffing pads, etc.
Another excellent vendor is www.pakshak.com or the www.ecocarcare.net site, autogeek, etc.
-----------------------
-----------------------
Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide®
HARD SUPPLIES
- Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool
- Bucket
- Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally
- Chenille covered foam pads, or wash mitts
- Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles
- Terrycloth towels (wiping/drying inteior, wheels, tires, door jambs)
- Microfiber towels (washing, removing product)
- Foam applicators (wax application)
- California Car Duster
- Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents)
Optional for power buffing:
-Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 (same buffer, 7336 has a larger counterweight so it runs a bit more smoothly).
-An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse.
Detailing products
I have listed products I have personally used.
No Rinse Washing
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine
Conventional Washing
Optimum Car Wash
Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash
Mothers California Car Wash
Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash
Kit Carnauba Wash
--honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. Do not use dish soap!. It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint.
Drying
Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse.
Wheel Cleaners
Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct.
Clay Bars
Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much.
Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth.
Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area.
Polishes and compounds
My favorite polishes and compounds are:
Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound
Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze
Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme
Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1)
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish
Use by hand:
Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section.
By Porter Cable polisher
Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects.
Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad.
Final Polishes and Glazes
You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing.
Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish
Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze
Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!)
Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba
Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong
Klasse All in One
Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna.
Waxes
As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants.
Clearkote Carnauba Moose
Optimum Car Wax
Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste
Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too!
Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications
Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba
Sealants
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use).
Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket
4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection
Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5
Klasse Sealant Glaze
Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant
Quick Detail Sprays
You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look.
Clearkote's Quikshine
Poorboy's Spray and Gloss
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant
Meguiars #34 Final Inspection
Zaino Z-6 or Z-8
Wax Shop's Slick Stuff
Interior Cleaning Products
I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed.
Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though.
Interior Protectants
Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping-
Optimum Protectant Plus
Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant
Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing
Armor All Original Shine
303
Vinylex
Leather-
Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner
Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
Tanner's Preserves
Lexol
Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!)
Miscellaneous
Glass cleaners:
Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner
Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner
Stoners Invisible Glass
Tire/fenderwell dressing:
Armor All Original Shine
Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
Optimum Tire Shine
Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1)
Trim dressing:
Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel
Poorboy's Trim Restorer
Mothers Back to Black
Engine Cleaning
1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from.
** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. **
2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story.
3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes.
4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side.
5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again.
6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel.
7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.
Please do not e-mail or PM me detailing questions, post them in our forum or in this thread and PM me the link only.
Videos:
Videos of me using Optimum No Rinse:
How to apply Opti-Seal
Carpet cleaning using a Cyclo brush attachment and a Meguiars G110
Fenderwell cleaning with ONR and a pesticide sprayer
Claying with Optimum No Rinse at wash strength
Cleaning wheels with ONR
Cleaning wheels with ONR and Optimum Power Clean
Proper Rotary technique
Headlight polishing using a Meguiars G110 DA buffer
First, I'll tell you how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less. This does not include any polishing so this method won't correct any defects. However, if your car is in good condition already or you just want it clean and protected, this method is excellent.
Products you will need:
2 gallon capacity bucket
1 wash pad, I like to use chenille covered foam pads
4-5 16" x 16" microfiber towels
2-3 terry cloth or cotton towels
Wheel brush(s)
Tire protectant
Glass Cleaner
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine: http://www.ecocarcare.net/no-rinse-wash-shine.php
Optimum Car Wax: http://www.ecocarcare.net/car-wax.php
Steps:
1. Using a capful or approximately one half ounce of Optimum No Rinse (ONR), add it to one gallon of water in the bucket.
2. Clean your wheels, tires and fenderwells using the ONR mixture and your brushes, wipe dry with the terry cloth towels.
3. Dress the wheels and fenderwells with your tire dressing-and don't forget the fenderwells! Dirty fenderwells detract from an otherwise clean and shiny car!
The reason to do the wheels and fenderwells first is so when you apply the tire dressing, any overspray will be washed off the car during the washing step.
4. Empty out your bucket and refill with clean water, adding one half to one full ounce of ONR (less if relatively clean, more if really dirty).
5. Using a chenille covered foam pad or a wash mitt, wash one section of the car at a time and dry immediately using two microfiber towels, one for the first drying pass and making sure you leave a little moisture behind, use the other towel for a second drying pass. If you get the panel completely dry with the first towel, then don't go over it with the second towel because rubbing even a soft microfiber towel on dry paint can leave streaks.
Once you get the process down (it may take a couple washes to really nail it) you should be able to wash the body of your car in 20 minutes or less unless it is really filthy.
6. After washing open your doors, gas cap door and trunk or hatch and wipe down all the jambs.
7. Using Optimum Car Wax (OCW), spray onto a section at a time. Don't soak the panel, just a mist should do. Spread the wax over the panel, flip the towel and wipe to a haze free shine. If you can use a detail spray, you can use OCW, it is that easy. Depending on your area, wash habits, etc, you can expect 3-5 months durability. Honestly though, it is so easy to use you will probably use it every few washes. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to do the whole car. In fact, you can also apply it as you dry each section when washing with ONR to save even more time, or apply while washing and apply a second coat for even better protection with very little additional time spent.
8. Clean your glass inside and out.
Stand back and admire your shiny car! Take pics and post them on OT!
There are several vendors who carry Optimum products, the one I would recommend first is www.exceldetail.com because he ships very fast, has excellent customer service, is an all around nice guy and he also carries a fine selection of microfiber towels, the rest of the Optimum product line as well as Clearkote, Poorboys, 4 Star, Propel buffing pads, etc.
Another excellent vendor is www.pakshak.com or the www.ecocarcare.net site, autogeek, etc.
-----------------------
-----------------------
Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide®
HARD SUPPLIES
- Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool
- Bucket
- Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally
- Chenille covered foam pads, or wash mitts
- Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles
- Terrycloth towels (wiping/drying inteior, wheels, tires, door jambs)
- Microfiber towels (washing, removing product)
- Foam applicators (wax application)
- California Car Duster
- Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents)
Optional for power buffing:
-Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 (same buffer, 7336 has a larger counterweight so it runs a bit more smoothly).
-An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse.
Detailing products
I have listed products I have personally used.
No Rinse Washing
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine
Conventional Washing
Optimum Car Wash
Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash
Mothers California Car Wash
Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash
Kit Carnauba Wash
--honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. Do not use dish soap!. It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint.
Drying
Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse.
Wheel Cleaners
Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct.
Clay Bars
Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much.
Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth.
Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area.
Polishes and compounds
My favorite polishes and compounds are:
Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound
Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze
Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme
Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1)
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish
Use by hand:
Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section.
By Porter Cable polisher
Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects.
Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad.
Final Polishes and Glazes
You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing.
Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish
Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze
Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!)
Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba
Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong
Klasse All in One
Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna.
Waxes
As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants.
Clearkote Carnauba Moose
Optimum Car Wax
Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste
Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too!
Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications
Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba
Sealants
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use).
Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket
4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection
Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5
Klasse Sealant Glaze
Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant
Quick Detail Sprays
You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look.
Clearkote's Quikshine
Poorboy's Spray and Gloss
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant
Meguiars #34 Final Inspection
Zaino Z-6 or Z-8
Wax Shop's Slick Stuff
Interior Cleaning Products
I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed.
Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though.
Interior Protectants
Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping-
Optimum Protectant Plus
Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant
Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing
Armor All Original Shine
303
Vinylex
Leather-
Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner
Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
Tanner's Preserves
Lexol
Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!)
Miscellaneous
Glass cleaners:
Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner
Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner
Stoners Invisible Glass
Tire/fenderwell dressing:
Armor All Original Shine
Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
Optimum Tire Shine
Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1)
Trim dressing:
Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel
Poorboy's Trim Restorer
Mothers Back to Black
Engine Cleaning
1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from.
** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. **
2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story.
3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes.
4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side.
5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again.
6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel.
7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.
Please do not e-mail or PM me detailing questions, post them in our forum or in this thread and PM me the link only.
Videos:
Videos of me using Optimum No Rinse:
How to apply Opti-Seal
Carpet cleaning using a Cyclo brush attachment and a Meguiars G110
Fenderwell cleaning with ONR and a pesticide sprayer
Claying with Optimum No Rinse at wash strength
Cleaning wheels with ONR
Cleaning wheels with ONR and Optimum Power Clean
Proper Rotary technique
Headlight polishing using a Meguiars G110 DA buffer
Last edited by Scottwax; 04-15-2011 at 08:24 PM.
Nice stuff man.
01-01-2008, 09:03 PM
#11
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
Here is a video demonstration by Anthony Orosco, a detailer in San Antonio.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...00996428313622
01-01-2008, 09:10 PM
#12
You know what? Im not even going to comment on that, Im just going to say HOLY CRAP I love Ferraris... 
Just out of curiosity, if I have the time, is a full wash and rinse techincally 'better'? I know my dad would like a lower water bill...
Just out of curiosity, if I have the time, is a full wash and rinse techincally 'better'? I know my dad would like a lower water bill...
Last edited by MOHFpro90; 01-01-2008 at 09:14 PM.
01-01-2008, 09:13 PM
#13
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
Here is a video using ONR (Optimum No Rinse) and the Optimum Car Wax (OCW) together for a quick wash and wax.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...51318888188883
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...51318888188883
)
01-31-2008, 07:57 AM
#18
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 3
Fellas,
I operate my own detailing business and I will say if any of you have not used Optimum OPT Polish...GET SOME.
I have used hundres of polishes and none are as easy to use, produce such a high gloss and removes scratches like this stuff. Literally, lightly buff and wipe off. No hard wiping or white residue.
I have used it for a few years to polish on exotic cars as well as daily drivers. Awesome stuff...
Just my two pennies...
Brad
I operate my own detailing business and I will say if any of you have not used Optimum OPT Polish...GET SOME.
I have used hundres of polishes and none are as easy to use, produce such a high gloss and removes scratches like this stuff. Literally, lightly buff and wipe off. No hard wiping or white residue.
I have used it for a few years to polish on exotic cars as well as daily drivers. Awesome stuff...
Just my two pennies...
Brad
02-02-2008, 07:55 AM
#19
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
You can expect about 2-3 months of durability in areas with a harsh enviroment (acid rain, industrial fallout, lots of rain) and 3-4 in areas with nice weather. The new version is going to be out hopefully by the end of this month (February), from what I understand they are waiting on the new labels. I have used the new version and it is even better. Slicker upon initial application and a warmer (carnauba-like) glow.
10-19-2008, 02:17 PM
#25
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
The "new and improved" part on the wash is the blue dye is more stable and they've added a pine/lemon scent. The wax (which is a different product) is slicker right off the bat and has a somewhat deeper look. If you already have the original version of either, I'd use them up first before getting the new versions.
spdfreak-heard of them but I've never tried any of their products.
spdfreak-heard of them but I've never tried any of their products.
12-10-2008, 01:06 PM
#28
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: A T L
Posts: 264
I've been using the optimum no rinse and optimum spray wax on my 09 maxima and I can honestly say these products are impressive and legit, although it is hard to notice the difference with the wax on a new black car, I can feel the wax layer as I glide my hand across my car.
01-05-2009, 11:32 PM
#30
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
Sorry, haven't checked this thread in a while. Poli-Seal is what I'd use if the paint is still swirl free. It has half the cut of Optimum Polish so it won't remove anything other than light defects so if you have any issues, Optimum Polish would be a better choice.
05-17-2009, 04:04 PM
#35
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 11
Bought some Optimum No Rinse and some Optimum Wax last week. Washed yesterday and noticed what appears to be tar spots in different areas around the car. I sprayed them with DuraGloss Bug Remover #471, but they don't want to come off. I let the bug remover sit on the spots for 2 to 3 minutes, but no luck. Anyone have any idea how to remove these? Also, will the bug and tar remover affect the clear coat if I leave it too long?
05-25-2009, 09:50 PM
#36
Hey Scott, I need some advice for glass cleaning. It seems like no matter what I do I end up with streaks. During the day everything looks perfect, but then at night when the streetlights/other's headlights light up the windows, the glass looks like he11.
I've used regular Windex and most recently Stoner's. Tried applying with newspaper (old timer advice of newspaper with water/vinegar), cotton cloth, and microfiber cloth.
Any suggestions?
I've used regular Windex and most recently Stoner's. Tried applying with newspaper (old timer advice of newspaper with water/vinegar), cotton cloth, and microfiber cloth.
Any suggestions?
05-26-2009, 09:10 PM
#37
Bought some Optimum No Rinse and some Optimum Wax last week. Washed yesterday and noticed what appears to be tar spots in different areas around the car. I sprayed them with DuraGloss Bug Remover #471, but they don't want to come off. I let the bug remover sit on the spots for 2 to 3 minutes, but no luck. Anyone have any idea how to remove these? Also, will the bug and tar remover affect the clear coat if I leave it too long?
05-27-2009, 04:46 AM
#38
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 11
I've already tried that and it didn't work, either.
I worked on it this past weekend and what seemed to work best was rinsing the car with water and spraying with bug and tar remover. Then, going back a couple minutes later and using a bug sponge from autogeek. Before, I was using a microfiber towel.
I worked on it this past weekend and what seemed to work best was rinsing the car with water and spraying with bug and tar remover. Then, going back a couple minutes later and using a bug sponge from autogeek. Before, I was using a microfiber towel.
05-29-2009, 10:02 AM
#39
i have a question too. i brought my car to get the inside detailed and he used product that i need to know of. i usually use armor all on my dash, witch i hate with a passion cause of the dirty residu and stickyness it leaves behind, and leather treatment that makes them all shiny and slippery. this guy didnt use these product and i wanted to know what to use to clean my inside. my dash and seats looks like it came out of the dealer. i hate the product i use and the question is pretty much, what should i use? thanks!!
