Dyno tests: Worth the cost? How much is too much to pay?
 

In a city of one million, I was able to find only one place that does dyno testing. Surprising as that fact may seem, what may be more surprising is the cost of $99 for three runs. (I thought most places charge $75, but given the law of Supply and Demand, I can see why the cost is $99).

Do dyno runs cost more or less than $99 where you live?

I would really like to get my ride tested, once and for all, but I am on a limited budget, and so I am having a hard time justifying the cost.

It is not that the cost is too high, per se, but that there are so many other things that I would like to buy, like bigger rims and wheels, less restrictive exhaust, and so on, which are more tangible and rewarding.

So, I have a few questions:

First of all, what's the least anyone has ever paid for dyno runs (excluding, of course, getting it done for "free" from an acquaintance)?

Next, how can I justify in my mind shelling out a C-note for what are bascially a few pieces of paper?

Also, are there self-contained electronic devices or computer programs that can be run on laptops or PDA's to estimate the output from a dyno? (I know they probably cost a whole lot more than the dyno test).

Lastly, in the grand scheme of things, is a dyno test the only accepted way to quantify an engine's performance parameters and to document the changes that tuners make to them.

Thanks.

over here they had a sale at one point and charged 20 bucks a run.

but the machine was f'ed up.. numbers were completely wrong and bouncy

I paid 150 for dyno+afc tuning and to me it was worth every cent to know what kind of #s my car actually put down. I dont know if you care enough to pay the cash. Does that $99 include a/f if so I would say it sounds fair

$75 here...$45 or so on dyno days...

is a dyno test the only accepted way to quantify an engine's performance parameters and to document the changes that tuners make to them?

i guess the track?

my dyno session sucked and i regret it b/c i found out my ks was bad (didnt have a code)...therefore i just spent $75 bucks only to find out that those arent my real numbers and that i have to replace something then come back and pay another $75 to get the real numbers...which arent really the real numbers because im not tuned! so if ur gonna go, make sure the car is as good as u can get it mechanically to see where you're at without a tune.

#1- Dont get your hopes up about our "restrictive exhaust". Other than the ypipe (12-15WHP), the rest of the exhaust (catback) isnt that restrictive at all, 5whp at most on average.

#2- Around here $75 is the norm for 3 runs with a/f ratio. Every now and then shops will hold dyno-days in which they'll drop the price to $40 for the same thing. Tuning you're looking at around $150 for an hour of unlimited runs.

#3- How to justify the cost in your head? Dyno's tell you the amount of power and how its begin delivered. If your power curves are all over the place, you might have missfire/ knock, if the a/f is too rich, you need to tune it leaner for more power. If its lean you might have either an exhaust leak after the o2s (in case you didnt hear it already) or a dying fuel pump, or a dirty fuel system that needs proper maintenance. There's an unlimited # of problems that can be narrowed down by looking at a dyno graph.

The 1st time I dyno'd I was all thrilled expecting 180s WHP, then when I see the graph, 162whp, extremely jagged lines. Turns out I had the KS harness disconnected and I had a vaccum leak from re-using the metal LIM-heads gaskets. I fixed those problems and went back the next dyno-day... 182WHP. So trust me, even if you THINK there's nothing wrong with the car, a dyno is the best way to confirm or disprove that notion.

#4-That G-meter thing does it. But there are variables that go into its programming that are pre-set, and therefore you cannot account for them in order to give you accurate #s. Just because it tells you that you have the POTENTIAL to run a 14.5, doesnt mean you will.

#5- You could tune the a/f with a wideband o2 on the street and an AFC, or you can mess with the timing and a/f with an EU and a laptop in the car. But, to get actual result #s, you need the dyno. So bottom line, go dyno.

dont get it done till you have something to tune it with

From what I've been told, one of the things that a dyno does not do well is simulating the actual air flow into an engine that occurs on the road. They basically put a big shop fan in front of the car.

Is there anyway to overcome that limitation?

Bring your own bigger fan....:hide:

i'm looking for a low cost dyno shop in the nyc area (but i'm willing to travel if the price is right to as far as PA) please lol.....because i have a supercharger on a 2000 maxima se and was wondering what the best piggy back for a s/c maxima and my third and last question is where is everyone picking up their 370 injectors from and how much are they going for???

PS i'm even willing to go into the Pa area...........

Check NYCmaxmas.org or the northeast section here and they will be able to point you to a good shop.

San Diego Speed Force Racing 75bucks for 3 Runs, The Dyno Shop 125bucks for 3 runs, and JBA something 95 bucks on a Mustang Dyno the others Dynojets....:D

Oh and bigger wheels NO, lighter the better, if bigger and lighter cool on a dyno, got 20s chrome 64lbs rim tire and air and a super clogged cat and dyno just for the hell and didnt hit past 200 to the wheels already handled the Pre Cat but got to get some 18s or 17s lightweight.....

thanks for the information... I got my 20in chrome for looks now I put a few mods on I definitely want lightweight wheels