Dyno'd two 5.5 gens today
 

OK...so me first. I have an 03 se AUTO :( These are the best two runs for me. During both runs, the front part of the stock intake was taken off (attached close to grill on chassis). On second run, i took off the filter holder also and left filter sitting in. Didnt think that small hole would make a diff since i already had the front taken off but i was wrong. I was told the car was pinging though...im not sure why since i run 93 octane. ANYWAYS, my only mod is the GAB. Runs were done is 3rd gear.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...tdynos1129.jpg


Now the 6spd. Belongs to my boy, he goes by shady33e on the forums. His only mod is a berk intake. On the first run he let off on the gas so thats the reason for the drop. Pretty much the same numbers on both runs. Runs were done in 4th gear.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...obestdynos.jpg

Sooooo...what does everybody think?

seems like inflated numbers on the 6spd....very

Just because your car didnt dyno that high with just an intake doesnt mean you have to hate :rolleyes: streetzlegend and 95blkmax can back me up as they were there. I also posted them as SAE not STD which gives lower numbers. Trust me i thought these numbers were high as well but as he went first and i went after, my numbers are about right sooooo....he has a factory freak what can i say :D

Got runfiles? :naughty:

Numbers seem about right for the Auto, a little high for the 6MT, BUT, since they were done on the machine, those 6MT #'s aren't inflated IMO. They are what they are.

What kind of wheel/tire is everybody rocking?


STD #’s don’t ALWAYS give higher #’s. It depends on the RH, but I know fellas are in a place where RH is horrific, so yeah, in your case, the STD #’s will definitely be higher.

yea I can second these. I've done my last bunch of dynos at this same shop and my #s are right where they should be.

Yea i have all the runfiles. We both have the stock se 17's. I Have falken ze-912's and he has yokohamas of some sort. My tires were at 31 psi if that makes any difference.

not hating, just saying theyre high, relax. and i never dyno'd with just an intake, so dont hate

lol touche.

So should i stick with the SAE graph numbers or STD? (lol) You're the man I need to ask...besides headers (for power), what would be the next best mod to do? I was thinking either TS ECU or LR MAF with AFC...opinions?

well the TS would be best combined with an SSIM to make the best use of the extended rev limiter. IMO (yeah i know im not nmex) i would go with the LRMAF and AFC because it will get you better power at the curent rev limit and the LRMAF will help you out even more when you go the the TS.

I asked for Nmex's advice because he has an auto and an extensive modlist BUT everyones opinion counts. Thank you :D Have you had any experience with either mentioned items?

isnt there another run where it shows my highest hp @ 228.75 and torque 236 lol goddamnit...

and yea i swear to god all i got is a berk intake w/ AEM filter...

oh....nvm i guess its different with sea# and std#s....

i know, i was just pullin your leg

i have a BBMAF, its not LR but the same idea. i cant really state my experience because mine is considerably different from everyone else's. where as most people go very lean, my car richened up to about 10:1 afr. using the afc i have corrections as high as -12. but the dyno's ive seen point to what i told you above

I have the LRMAF when youre ready.. :wavey:

In the past, LRMAF has shown great responsiveness, but not great peak power. In then end, my throttle response was/is better than you think, anyhow, there has been trivial evidence on this mod, so, my advice is: if you have an AFC, Do eeeeiiit! if not, do more researchm and in the end j00's makes moar whp than teh Nmex. :sadpace:

nono, shift was asking and he's auto

> j00..


:wall:

not with those mods...but maybe in the future

PS: z33 injectors to be in on dec 10th, driving/AF tuning impressions to follow.

I guess LRMAF it is for now. I dont have an AFC so...vafc or safc? I understand the vafc has more tuning points but can they be used properly on the max? Also, would you guys recommend the same for the 6spd or a different approach? Thanks.

Dont use the VAFC if you know you're going to change the MAF. No adjustment for MAF IN/OUT. So you'd have to add fuel across the board. Where as with an SAFC you can just change the MAF IN and the SAFC (be it the 1 or the 2, preferably the 2 for more tuning points) interpolates the corrections for ya and its just easier to deal with

SAFC makes the LRMAF easier to 'tune', but SAFC does have more 'tuning' points (vs VAFCII). IMO, SAFC would be the way to go (less headaches re: LARMAF)

when i tried this with my VAFC-2 it seemed like 6 and 4 made a 2pt difference. not sure which way (6 in, 4 out or 4 in, 6 out) went more rich since it was a lot harder to get info on this than i thought. but there is DEF an MAF correction. my guess is people havent gotten it to work because the correction is either too much or too little for them. its not like its hard to tune part throttle and idle with it, i have my car running pretty lean on part throttle and everytime i check it the part throttle readings are right where i want them. i dont doubt its easier with the safc, i just think if you are willing to spend some time getting it right that the vafc would be better cause of the many correction points

Yeah, hence the headache comment.


So, how lean are you @ part throttle?

not SUPER lean, but ive been trying to make sure that when it first goes into open loop @ part throttle that im getting leaner than 14.6:1 as opposed to the 12:1 i used to get. BTW, the throttle response is a lot better now too

I hover @ 15:1 part throttle. :gotme:

I was 'raw' tuning re: LRMAF before SR told me to change the in out settings. It's a :mad: to tune that way but it is possible, but how important are those extra 12 points? 95BLK has proved that it's not THAT important since he only has 8 points. :ben:

BTW:
I MIGHT dyno tomorrow, BUT, I have 'detuned' so :slant:

awesome, guess im going to go a good deal leaner soon. i already noticed a pretty nice increase in mileage, can hardly imagine getting more

all i know is that anytime i go out with the WBO2 i wish i had a point every 50-100 rpm. probly just one of those things, once you go 24 points you dont go back.

Still, AFC is a rough tune, meaning even if 2 runs were identical(same run/load/% correction), the AFR wouldn't always be flat/same as each other, since the MAF is reading airflow and it has a lot to do w/ atmospheric conditions.

yeah, that it is. also depends a lot on how warm the car is. cold my car is running 14.2 WOT, but warm its 13.7...huge difference. unfortunately the next level up in accuracy is something like an EMU, and thats a big step

i guess my next mod should be those phelonic spacers...

That was random :gotme:

not if youre looking for raw power

I second that Shady's numbers are accurate, came across him on the street(few days before the dyno), his car pulls pretty hard for being basically stock. So the 'inflated' numbers are accurate with how the car performs.

wut do u mean raw power...wut should i look into instead?

and if i do spend $500+ im going to invest into springs/struts first...
S-techs and iluminas, then cattman headers/ypipe

lol its cuz i raced last nite my friends 06 WRX non-sti but still with mods (exhaust, wastegate, boost controller, idk wut else) and from a 30 roll we were neck to neck untill he shifted and since he has turbo lag i got ahead once i kicked into 3rd, i was lik a car ahead...and supposably his car needs tuning...

so he wants to rematch again soon after he 'tunes'...i need more power lol

btw sorry i dont hav a video but ima keep my digital camera in my car for next time

i mean there are things out there that will get you a lot more (headers basically, some pretty cheap tuning tricks to get power,...). the phenolic spacers are good for midrange power, but you dont really get anything at the top. its mostly just good for lowering the IM temps

Probally because they dynoed in 4th. 5th gear would have been better and resulted in 1:1.

4th is the closest to 1:1 with FWD 6-speeds.

Either way, those are great numbers for that 6-speed. Good job on getting the back to back comparison of your cars.

+1, and dynoing in a gear lower than 1:1 would give lower #'s, not higher

I dyno higher in 3rd (1:1), vs 2nd(1.545:1).