02max245

iTrader: (2)

I am at 100000 miles and i am wondering what goes into a full tune up. What do i need to change?

Bobo

You are in the wrong forum. Go the the 5th Gen forum and look in the stickies. I believe the spark plugs are changed among other things.

Don't you have the owners manual?

You should also get a Haynes manual.

SilverMax_04

My 04 manual calls for a tune up at 110 K miles, so I will need that in the next few months. I am currently at 101 K miles on the Max. My local dealer quoted me a price of $750 to change the plugs and do the tune up when I was at 100 K miles. I am waiting until I get to 110.

Bobo

Why would you take your car to the dealer to get the service done? There must be cheaper places that are capable of doing the work properly, if you provide the service schedule to them of what needs to be done/checked.

SilverMax_04

I take my Max in twice a year to the dealer because they have a modern wheel allignment system. That was the service I bought that day. The service manager simply noted the mileage and asked if I wanted them to change the spark plugs at the same time. I passed on this saying I wanted to go to 110 K miles before changing them.

With every car I have ever owned, I have done this job myself. But I've seen posts on how difficult it is to change some of the plugs on this Max. I am also older than the last time I did this job on an earlier car.

I will shop around and see if I can find a better price for the work before I go to the dealer for this job. But I at least know what kind of cost I am facing.

Bobo

Good move. It is best to check around as the term "stealership" is used for a reason. I am not too familiar with the 04 Maxima, but apart from spark plugs visual inspections/checks of the CV boots, suspension, steering and exhaust should be made.

Critical is checking belts and hoses, as well as all fluids.

When was the last time the radiator coolant was changed and the transmission serviced?

SilverMax_04

Good Points. I check out the exhaust system and other fluids every time I change oil.

I changed the manual trannie fluid, the anti-freeze and the large heater hoses myself about 5 K miles ago. The major belt was replaced about 20 K miles ago. I assume that the dealership checks the CV boots every time I get a full allignment.

I know that I am living on borrowed time for the front struts and rear shock absorbers. I will probably get both replaced at the same time I get the spark plugs replaced at about 110 K miles.

I will be changing the motor oil and rotating the tires in the next few hundred miles.

Bobo

I question when the last time, if ever, I had my front struts and rear shock absorbers checked on my 95 SE. I guess I should do that. The car has 84,400 one-owner, mostly highway miles on it, and to say I have been **** about the car would be an understatement.

I had a 4-wheel alignment done in August 2009 after I had the 5-speed tranny rebuilt and clutch replaced and the alignment shop said the alignment was only slightly out of spec. They didn't comment on the struts and shock absorbers.

SilverMax_04

It is farily easy to check shocks or struts. Push down on the fender over the shock or strut you want to check and continue alternately pushing and not pushing until you get some bounce going in the body above that wheel. After you stop pushing, the car should go down (or up) once and then stop. If the body goes past that one move, it is time to replace that shock or strut.

Mine continue to perform properly even after 100 K (mostly highway) miles. But I know they will not make it to 200 K miles (when I plan to replace this Max).

Bobo

The old tried and true method for checking shocks. I may end up being buried in my Maxima as it will be still going strong at 200k miles and will be worth more to me than anyone else.

At 200 k you could always keep yours as a winter beater. Do they use much salt and sand on the roads where you live?

[
QUOTE=SilverMax_04;7747799]It is farily easy to check shocks or struts. P
push down on the fender over the shock or strut you want to check and continue alternately pushing and not pushing until you get some bounce going in the body above that wheel. After you stop pushing, the car should go down (or up) once and then stop. If the body goes past that one move, it is time to replace that shock or strut.

Mine continue to perform properly even after 100 K (mostly highway) miles. But I know they will not make it to 200 K miles (when I plan to replace this Max).[/QUOTE]

SilverMax_04

Don't knock "tried and true" when it works.

Here in Colorado they blend a little salt into the sand they spread on the roads. When we first got here in 98 there was no salt in the sand. I think it is now about 10% salt.

When you are retired like I am, you don't need a winter beater (or any beater).
I also like to keep all of my vehicles in the garage, and I can't park on the street overnight. So I will stay at 2 vehicles. I need a car that is good on the highways, like the Max. But will not keep this Max past 200 K miles.

Bobo

You read me wrong, I wasn't knocking the tried and true method as I have been using that approach to test shocks since the days of the muscle cars in the late 1960s. Shocks, ball joints, tie rods etc. didn't last long back then given the heavy engines.

I guess there comes a point where the cost of maintenance and reliability becomes a factor in the final decision as to when to get rid of a vehicle.

audipat2345

i would do all fluids and spark plugs, oil, coolant, atf, coolant

mnml10387

I am way overdue for a tune up, thanks for the reminder.

txnurse25

Ive done most of that, but the spark plugs scare me but I live in a retirement community city and most of the shops over charge due to the elderly population. Most of the shops here charge $100+/hr and quoted me 5 hrs on doing the plugs... just the plugs. Might be trying to read and lean myself.... eeekkkk .... oh and they only use OEM parts "they" order from the dealer, it just sounds fishy.

Changed the trans fluid today with the amsoil GL-4, hope it helps.

NIKV69

It is a little involved but I did it myself. OEM plugs were $11 each the gaskets for the collector were cheap and so was PCV valve. You need a tourque wrench but it's not hard.