300,000+ mile club question: fluids...
09-20-2016, 12:50 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
300,000+ mile club question: fluids...
So I've been a "member" of the 300K club for the last 17,000 miles.
I can't seem to find any good info online about oil change intervals and transmission change intervals for engines with this amount of miles.
I've been doing 7,500 mile OCIs using strictly mobile 1 and pennzoil platinum since about 133,000 miles. But, this is only in a span of 4 years. So most of it is highway driving. Thus far, no major Internal engine work required. I occasionally hit 6,200 Rpm...basically flooring it to redline when needed. I've done 1 analysis awhile back that mentioned a possibility of small amounts of coolant in the oil. But nothing alarming and still good at 6,000 miles of use on oil.
But now I'm starting to wonder if it's a bad idea. When I change my oil now, it doesn't look invisible on the dipstick after a change. And today at 4,000 mile changing it, it was pretty black coming out of the pan. I also notice it's easier to start the car when the oil is new.
Also transmission fluid: it too holding up good, however I changed it about 3-4 times in the past with MaxLife to get it all clear. Thought about changing it again, but it looks good and no leaks. But, it probably has 75,000+ miles on it. Or more. I don't like messing with tranny fluid more than necessary because it's hard to get an accurate reading and gears stick after a change.
Thoughts?
I can't seem to find any good info online about oil change intervals and transmission change intervals for engines with this amount of miles.
I've been doing 7,500 mile OCIs using strictly mobile 1 and pennzoil platinum since about 133,000 miles. But, this is only in a span of 4 years. So most of it is highway driving. Thus far, no major Internal engine work required. I occasionally hit 6,200 Rpm...basically flooring it to redline when needed. I've done 1 analysis awhile back that mentioned a possibility of small amounts of coolant in the oil. But nothing alarming and still good at 6,000 miles of use on oil.
But now I'm starting to wonder if it's a bad idea. When I change my oil now, it doesn't look invisible on the dipstick after a change. And today at 4,000 mile changing it, it was pretty black coming out of the pan. I also notice it's easier to start the car when the oil is new.
Also transmission fluid: it too holding up good, however I changed it about 3-4 times in the past with MaxLife to get it all clear. Thought about changing it again, but it looks good and no leaks. But, it probably has 75,000+ miles on it. Or more. I don't like messing with tranny fluid more than necessary because it's hard to get an accurate reading and gears stick after a change.
Thoughts?
Last edited by 97_GXE; 09-20-2016 at 12:54 AM.
09-20-2016, 03:56 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
So I've been a "member" of the 300K club for the last 17,000 miles.
I can't seem to find any good info online about oil change intervals and transmission change intervals for engines with this amount of miles.
I've been doing 7,500 mile OCIs using strictly mobile 1 and pennzoil platinum since about 133,000 miles. But, this is only in a span of 4 years. So most of it is highway driving. Thus far, no major Internal engine work required. I occasionally hit 6,200 Rpm...basically flooring it to redline when needed. I've done 1 analysis awhile back that mentioned a possibility of small amounts of coolant in the oil. But nothing alarming and still good at 6,000 miles of use on oil.
But now I'm starting to wonder if it's a bad idea. When I change my oil now, it doesn't look invisible on the dipstick after a change. And today at 4,000 mile changing it, it was pretty black coming out of the pan. I also notice it's easier to start the car when the oil is new.
Also transmission fluid: it too holding up good, however I changed it about 3-4 times in the past with MaxLife to get it all clear. Thought about changing it again, but it looks good and no leaks. But, it probably has 75,000+ miles on it. Or more. I don't like messing with tranny fluid more than necessary because it's hard to get an accurate reading and gears stick after a change.
Thoughts?
I can't seem to find any good info online about oil change intervals and transmission change intervals for engines with this amount of miles.
I've been doing 7,500 mile OCIs using strictly mobile 1 and pennzoil platinum since about 133,000 miles. But, this is only in a span of 4 years. So most of it is highway driving. Thus far, no major Internal engine work required. I occasionally hit 6,200 Rpm...basically flooring it to redline when needed. I've done 1 analysis awhile back that mentioned a possibility of small amounts of coolant in the oil. But nothing alarming and still good at 6,000 miles of use on oil.
But now I'm starting to wonder if it's a bad idea. When I change my oil now, it doesn't look invisible on the dipstick after a change. And today at 4,000 mile changing it, it was pretty black coming out of the pan. I also notice it's easier to start the car when the oil is new.
Also transmission fluid: it too holding up good, however I changed it about 3-4 times in the past with MaxLife to get it all clear. Thought about changing it again, but it looks good and no leaks. But, it probably has 75,000+ miles on it. Or more. I don't like messing with tranny fluid more than necessary because it's hard to get an accurate reading and gears stick after a change.
Thoughts?
I have also used either Mobile 1, or O'reilly synthetic since I bought the car at 100k miles.
I also run mine mostly on the freeway. I sometimes shift close to red line as well.
I change the oil at 8,000 miles or so.
I need to add a quart at 5000 miles.
Some dark oil from blow by is to be expected.
Keep doing what you have been.
09-20-2016, 08:55 PM
#3
ramble alert
Not sure if this applies to Maxima's specifically, but in general automatic transmissions don't 'require' the fluid to be changed per manufacturer recommendations... There are some exceptions to that. After a certain threshold, you imagine clutch pack materials slowly build up in the filter and fluid. I very rarely felt any benefit from changing fluid other than knowing the fluid is fresh and clutch packs will grip.
I personally would change out the transmission fluid again somewhere between 80-100k... hell, it's gotten you this far and that's impressive! Usually my vehicles leak enough so they get all fresh fluids annually
Another subject... fluid standards change. The revision of manufacturer-specific AT fluid that the transmission was designed for at the time it was built most likely will be replaced by newer formulas, changed and tweaked. Some claim the aftermarket fluids are never as good as the OEM fluid. For imports, I usually try to make it a one-time go and get manufacturer fluid... if I just need it to drive desperately on a budget, I will use aftermarket equivalents. For american cars/trucks, I don't really care. I just put in auto parts store fluid. Probably doesn't matter much to maximas, but on other forums i've seen guys who would NEVER put non-OEM transmission fluid in.. Definitely a case by case basis.
i accidentally put dexron III into my ATF+4 tranny, just a quart. I just left it in there since capacity is 14 quarts in that truck. Dex has detergents in it whereas ATF+4 does not... part of the reason why dexIII is not the perfect power steering fluid - it will bubble and foam. Although I've put plenty of tranny fluid in the power steering in my old chevy's....
Anyone feel free to jump in and correct me on anything.
I personally would change out the transmission fluid again somewhere between 80-100k... hell, it's gotten you this far and that's impressive! Usually my vehicles leak enough so they get all fresh fluids annually
Another subject... fluid standards change. The revision of manufacturer-specific AT fluid that the transmission was designed for at the time it was built most likely will be replaced by newer formulas, changed and tweaked. Some claim the aftermarket fluids are never as good as the OEM fluid. For imports, I usually try to make it a one-time go and get manufacturer fluid... if I just need it to drive desperately on a budget, I will use aftermarket equivalents. For american cars/trucks, I don't really care. I just put in auto parts store fluid. Probably doesn't matter much to maximas, but on other forums i've seen guys who would NEVER put non-OEM transmission fluid in.. Definitely a case by case basis.
i accidentally put dexron III into my ATF+4 tranny, just a quart. I just left it in there since capacity is 14 quarts in that truck. Dex has detergents in it whereas ATF+4 does not... part of the reason why dexIII is not the perfect power steering fluid - it will bubble and foam. Although I've put plenty of tranny fluid in the power steering in my old chevy's....
Anyone feel free to jump in and correct me on anything.
10-02-2016, 02:26 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
Not sure if this applies to Maxima's specifically, but in general automatic transmissions don't 'require' the fluid to be changed per manufacturer recommendations... There are some exceptions to that. After a certain threshold, you imagine clutch pack materials slowly build up in the filter and fluid. I very rarely felt any benefit from changing fluid other than knowing the fluid is fresh and clutch packs will grip.
I personally would change out the transmission fluid again somewhere between 80-100k... hell, it's gotten you this far and that's impressive! Usually my vehicles leak enough so they get all fresh fluids annually
Another subject... fluid standards change. The revision of manufacturer-specific AT fluid that the transmission was designed for at the time it was built most likely will be replaced by newer formulas, changed and tweaked. Some claim the aftermarket fluids are never as good as the OEM fluid. For imports, I usually try to make it a one-time go and get manufacturer fluid... if I just need it to drive desperately on a budget, I will use aftermarket equivalents. For american cars/trucks, I don't really care. I just put in auto parts store fluid. Probably doesn't matter much to maximas, but on other forums i've seen guys who would NEVER put non-OEM transmission fluid in.. Definitely a case by case basis.
i accidentally put dexron III into my ATF+4 tranny, just a quart. I just left it in there since capacity is 14 quarts in that truck. Dex has detergents in it whereas ATF+4 does not... part of the reason why dexIII is not the perfect power steering fluid - it will bubble and foam. Although I've put plenty of tranny fluid in the power steering in my old chevy's....
Anyone feel free to jump in and correct me on anything.
I personally would change out the transmission fluid again somewhere between 80-100k... hell, it's gotten you this far and that's impressive! Usually my vehicles leak enough so they get all fresh fluids annually
Another subject... fluid standards change. The revision of manufacturer-specific AT fluid that the transmission was designed for at the time it was built most likely will be replaced by newer formulas, changed and tweaked. Some claim the aftermarket fluids are never as good as the OEM fluid. For imports, I usually try to make it a one-time go and get manufacturer fluid... if I just need it to drive desperately on a budget, I will use aftermarket equivalents. For american cars/trucks, I don't really care. I just put in auto parts store fluid. Probably doesn't matter much to maximas, but on other forums i've seen guys who would NEVER put non-OEM transmission fluid in.. Definitely a case by case basis.
i accidentally put dexron III into my ATF+4 tranny, just a quart. I just left it in there since capacity is 14 quarts in that truck. Dex has detergents in it whereas ATF+4 does not... part of the reason why dexIII is not the perfect power steering fluid - it will bubble and foam. Although I've put plenty of tranny fluid in the power steering in my old chevy's....
Anyone feel free to jump in and correct me on anything.
I use Vavoline synthetic ATF. Comes in a large jug and readily available. Never had any issues using it.
I'm going to start changing the oil at 4,500 now. I notice after an oil change my car starts a little faster and better. I can't seem to track down why my car hesitates or fails on startup after sitting for 20-30 minutes but not longer than overnight when running hot especially with the a/c on or in hot weather. But, it gets worse toward the end of an oil interval or when my gas is really low...
Last edited by 97_GXE; 10-02-2016 at 02:29 PM.
10-02-2016, 05:46 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
I really like Valvoline Maxlife Power Steering fluid. Also, I use Valvoline brake fluid.
I have a V6 Honda with a chronic rear main seal leak problem. I'm on my 2nd rear main seal. Maxlife syn blend seems to have slowed the RMS leak to a manageable level.
I think it a lot on how you drive and the type of transmission build. The guy in the video below is running a Level10 built transmission. I can tell you from first hand experience Level10's owner recommends using Nissan Matic-S.
The transmissions are built for drag racing with aluminum billet torque converters, Kevlar clutches, and special valve bodies. Most people with a Level10 transmission change their fluid once a year.
How's this for a crisp automatic at the drag strip?
Last edited by CS_AR; 10-02-2016 at 06:10 PM.
10-02-2016, 10:16 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 303
I brought the I30's transmission back from the dead by gradually changing 4-5 quarts every 500 miles for 4 cycles. When I got the car the ATF looked like dark burned motor oil. It had an irregular shifting pattern. I thought the transmission was toast. So I used Castrol Import Multi-vehicle to clean it up. It did a nice job of cleaning up the transmission while resolving the strange shifting issue. I've stayed with it all these years. Today I changed the latest 4th gen to use Castrol Import Multi-vehicle. I will change it 3 to 4 times to swap out all of the old fluid.
I really like Valvoline Maxlife Power Steering fluid. Also, I use Valvoline brake fluid.
I have a V6 Honda with a chronic rear main seal leak problem. I'm on my 2nd rear main seal. Maxlife syn blend seems to have slowed the RMS leak to a manageable level.
I think it a lot on how you drive and the type of transmission build. The guy in the video below is running a Level10 built transmission. I can tell you from first hand experience Level10's owner recommends using Nissan Matic-S.
I really like Valvoline Maxlife Power Steering fluid. Also, I use Valvoline brake fluid.
I have a V6 Honda with a chronic rear main seal leak problem. I'm on my 2nd rear main seal. Maxlife syn blend seems to have slowed the RMS leak to a manageable level.
I think it a lot on how you drive and the type of transmission build. The guy in the video below is running a Level10 built transmission. I can tell you from first hand experience Level10's owner recommends using Nissan Matic-S.
Only thing about the vavoline MaxLife is the strong caustic smell that filtrates outside the bottle. But maybe all transmission fluids are that way.
10-05-2016, 05:39 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,883
So I've been a "member" of the 300K club for the last 17,000 miles.
I can't seem to find any good info online about oil change intervals and transmission change intervals for engines with this amount of miles.
I've been doing 7,500 mile OCIs using strictly mobile 1 and pennzoil platinum since about 133,000 miles. But, this is only in a span of 4 years. So most of it is highway driving. Thus far, no major Internal engine work required. I occasionally hit 6,200 Rpm...basically flooring it to redline when needed. I've done 1 analysis awhile back that mentioned a possibility of small amounts of coolant in the oil. But nothing alarming and still good at 6,000 miles of use on oil.
But now I'm starting to wonder if it's a bad idea. When I change my oil now, it doesn't look invisible on the dipstick after a change. And today at 4,000 mile changing it, it was pretty black coming out of the pan. I also notice it's easier to start the car when the oil is new.
Also transmission fluid: it too holding up good, however I changed it about 3-4 times in the past with MaxLife to get it all clear. Thought about changing it again, but it looks good and no leaks. But, it probably has 75,000+ miles on it. Or more. I don't like messing with tranny fluid more than necessary because it's hard to get an accurate reading and gears stick after a change.
Thoughts?
I can't seem to find any good info online about oil change intervals and transmission change intervals for engines with this amount of miles.
I've been doing 7,500 mile OCIs using strictly mobile 1 and pennzoil platinum since about 133,000 miles. But, this is only in a span of 4 years. So most of it is highway driving. Thus far, no major Internal engine work required. I occasionally hit 6,200 Rpm...basically flooring it to redline when needed. I've done 1 analysis awhile back that mentioned a possibility of small amounts of coolant in the oil. But nothing alarming and still good at 6,000 miles of use on oil.
But now I'm starting to wonder if it's a bad idea. When I change my oil now, it doesn't look invisible on the dipstick after a change. And today at 4,000 mile changing it, it was pretty black coming out of the pan. I also notice it's easier to start the car when the oil is new.
Also transmission fluid: it too holding up good, however I changed it about 3-4 times in the past with MaxLife to get it all clear. Thought about changing it again, but it looks good and no leaks. But, it probably has 75,000+ miles on it. Or more. I don't like messing with tranny fluid more than necessary because it's hard to get an accurate reading and gears stick after a change.
Thoughts?
My question is...you have an auto, right? I never followed too closely since mine's a 5-spd....do they last as long as the vehicle without a rebuild?
The Maxima's replacement is an auto, so this is a new world for me. Since the replacement has no dipstick, there's really not much I can do to even see the fluid. supposedly it has a fill and drain designed for a machine to be hooked up.....
My Maxima's most persistent issues were airbag (which I reset for over 10 years), and EGR, plus throttle ps--I could not get it out due to a stripped screw. But everything started happening this year, with electrical stuff not working anymore. It was almost undriveable as the RF caliper locked up completely (replaced it myself so it was the hose). Got a couple of business trips out of it with mileage reimbursement last week hehe
edit: to be honest, it's state emissions that really brings down the cars imho...in states with no emissions I suppose one simply drives with the SES....(unless o2 sensors)
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mclasser
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07-05-2016 12:04 PM