porterfield r4s vs. axxis metal master
 

i'm looking to get brake pads that can stop the maxima better than the oem pads. from doing a search, this is what i got so far:

Porterfield r4s:
dust alot
less abrasive
don’t require warmup

Axxis Metal Master:
more abrasive
need a bit of a warmup
sometimes squeal

...please correct me if i wrong about any of this. I don't care about the dusting or cost, i'd rather have a pad that squeals less, wears my rotors less, and stops/slows me down faster, so i'd appreciate any feedback.

also, just wondering why dot3 is used in the maxima if dot4 is a better fluid (cost?). thanks.

i think the RS4 pads are better for stock rotors and the metal matrix pads for aftermarket rotors. not sure on this so please correct me if i am wrong.

You have that backwards. The Porterfield R4S is a more agressive pad than the Axxis Metalmaster. Axxis is a good pad for street use but if you ever take them on the track you will wish you hadn't. Hawk HPS is another one to consider.

Re: porterfield r4s vs. axxis metal master
 

I have the Porterfields all around and they are a great brake pad. Much better than stock. They do dust a lot, but I like the gunmetal color they turn my rims. There is a a very small amount of squeal but not noticable most of the time. They will stop you on a dime. Hope this helps.


Adam

Had the metal masters on with slotted rotors and SS brake lines, swapped out the metal masters for Porterfields and like them much better. Seems to stop shorter although I will be the first to tell you I have no hard numbers. BTW, anyone want to by a slightly used set (maybe 8k highway miles) of metal masters cheap?

crap, i just ordered from phuong...oh well, at least i know they'll go for a while

so porterfields will wear the oem rotors more than axxis? and axxis will last longer than porterfields?

Porterfields are very rotor friendly, last a long time but will literally melt on the track (ask me how I know this:) ) They also require a touch of warm-up to be able to modulate them best. Maybe cars with ABS won't notice a difference, but those without will for sure.

DOT 3 is used to save money. If you care about high performance braking change it to DOT4.

Nealoc187, ever try Carbotech pads??

Last time I checked I couldn't find a carbotech pad for the Maxima. Do you know for a fact that they have them? I need new pads, my Hawks are close to gone. I was planning on trying Porterfields but if Carbotech has an application for us now I will get them.

I talked to the guys at Carbotech about a month ago because I wanted to try a different track pad. They have their Panther+ (track only)compound available for the Max. If you send them the blanks off an old set it will save you $20 too. I'm need to find a set soon, April 2nd is the first date of the season here.

Cool. I have a set track date in June but I suspect I will need pads before then, and I plan to do some open hot lapping well before June.

both are good pads, i do think the Porterfields are better tho. they also cost more. my bro loves te R4S's on his SE-R, although he can almost kill a set one day on the track. squealing is moreover an issue with installation. Ive done numerous pad installs using Axxis metal masters and not a squeal, also installed Porterfields, PBRs, Cermanics, and other types of pads with no squeals. orange goo anti squeal? nope...never used it, and dont belive in it either.

i think i'll go with the porterfield r4s. i don't go to the track and don't think i will have the time to try anytime soon, so i won't have to worry about melting them :D thanks for the help guys.

When you guys talk about the track, are we talking drag racing or autocrossing (roadracing)?:confused:

It would be nice if there were some autocrossers out there. :)

i don't see how drag racing at the track would where aftermarket pads that much, i definitley think they are talking about road racing, and i too need to get a set of rs4 for the track(autoX/roadracing) for this summer.

DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3. and is a little bit more exspensive not much.

I am talking about autocross and roadracing. I have never been to the drag strip (driving anyways) in my life. I believe Nealoc187 drives on roadcourses as well.

Yep, I do. Thats why I want a pad that is more agressive than my HPS' are.

I have the porterfields. Took a LONG time for these pads to set up when I added new pads and new rotors.. yeah I know you are supposed to bed them on old rotors. Anyways, it took around 2000 miles of city driving before the Porterfields felt "good and strong." Before that, it was horrible in the morning...needs a good hard stop to get them working even as good stock brake pads.

Now, with 10,000 miles on the pads, they perform very well. They are not as easily modulated as the stock pads, due to the fact these bite very aggressively. You need to put very firm pressure on the brake pedal for a smooth stop with the Porterfields..something you get used to but people who drive my car are always surprised by the firm feel. The pads still need one warm up stop in the morning to get going (usually just backing out from my driveway is enough). Fade characteristics are excellent, and these pads are much less prone to locking the wheels than the stockers during a panic stop. I would say that if you drive on the track or are VERY AGGRESSIVE (I mean you beat the car aggressive) then get the Porterfields. But for everyday driving, I do not see the extra expense of these pads over stock as being worth it since they do have a "racing feel" to them which makes them a little odd to drive on the street.

As for dusting, yes they do dust a slight orange tinge. Kind of like a rust color. Dusting is not as bad as stock pads, but definitely noticable.

Not directly related to this specific topic but...
 

How important are the shims you put on the back of the pad and what is their specific purpose? A buddy of mine just did the brakes on his wifes car but the stock shims wouldn't fit on the aftermarket pads, so he left them off. Any problems with this?

Re: Not directly related to this specific topic but...
 

The brakes will work fine without the shims, they may squeal a little though.