Wheel Bearing replacement
#1
Wheel Bearing replacement
Hey guys, anyone done wheel bearing replacements on their I's? I think my front ones are bad since im starting to hear the howling noise, especially at like highway speeds when I make a left. Does that mean my passenger one is bad cause that is what I have read from the research ive done so far. What else could be causing it?
Called my local auto store and they said its something like $60 for one and is the pressed hub or something along those lines, not sure what that means.
Called my local auto store and they said its something like $60 for one and is the pressed hub or something along those lines, not sure what that means.
#2
I just did my driver side one. I bought a bearing and hub for ~$40 on ebay and had it pressed into the hub by a local parts shop for $40.
This video was extremely helpful. The process is identical on 5-5.5th gens:
This video was extremely helpful. The process is identical on 5-5.5th gens:
Last edited by rbaksi; 03-03-2015 at 09:23 PM.
#3
Thanks man, to be honest, im gonna get the work done by a professional, im in no way shape or form capable of doing this lol but good to see the process. How long did it take you? I have a mechanic who will be doing mine, I think the bearing is worth $60 and they were mentioning something about a pressed hub? Not sure what that is but how long did I take you to do yours?
#4
I have done front wheel bearings on all of the Maximas and the I that I own. From what I have seen no one sells a hub with the bearing already pressed in. They come seperate and you have to have them pressed in. Unless you have access to a shop press I would recommend letting a professional take care of it.
You can save yourself a lot of labor cost by bringing the knuckle to your mechanic yourself. Removing the knuckle doesn't require much expertise above being able to replace the suspension nor does it require specialized tools like a shop press.
Stop to finish is usually a half days work for me. That is with a lift and shop press on hand. So it might be wise to allocate a full day to getting your suspension/steering apart, running the parts to the shop, and getting it all put back together.
When I do the wheel bearing I always consider doing the other suspension/steering components since you are already taking it apart. (Tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar endlinks, strut mounts)
You can save yourself a lot of labor cost by bringing the knuckle to your mechanic yourself. Removing the knuckle doesn't require much expertise above being able to replace the suspension nor does it require specialized tools like a shop press.
Stop to finish is usually a half days work for me. That is with a lift and shop press on hand. So it might be wise to allocate a full day to getting your suspension/steering apart, running the parts to the shop, and getting it all put back together.
When I do the wheel bearing I always consider doing the other suspension/steering components since you are already taking it apart. (Tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar endlinks, strut mounts)
Last edited by Requin6; 03-05-2015 at 05:36 AM.
#5
I have done front wheel bearings on all of the Maximas and the I that I own. From what I have seen no one sells a hub with the bearing already pressed in. They come seperate and you have to have them pressed in. Unless you have access to a shop press I would recommend letting a professional take care of it.
You can save yourself a lot of labor cost by bringing the knuckle to your mechanic yourself. Removing the knuckle doesn't require much expertise above being able to replace the suspension nor does it require specialized tools like a shop press.
Stop to finish is usually a half days work for me. That is with a lift and shop press on hand. So it might be wise to allocate a full day to getting your suspension/steering apart, running the parts to the shop, and getting it all put back together.
When I do the wheel bearing I always consider doing the other suspension/steering components since you are already taking it apart. (Tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar endlinks, strut mounts)
You can save yourself a lot of labor cost by bringing the knuckle to your mechanic yourself. Removing the knuckle doesn't require much expertise above being able to replace the suspension nor does it require specialized tools like a shop press.
Stop to finish is usually a half days work for me. That is with a lift and shop press on hand. So it might be wise to allocate a full day to getting your suspension/steering apart, running the parts to the shop, and getting it all put back together.
When I do the wheel bearing I always consider doing the other suspension/steering components since you are already taking it apart. (Tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar endlinks, strut mounts)
Last edited by thenewguyy; 03-05-2015 at 10:50 AM.
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boomerbrian
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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11-08-2015 05:10 PM