AC Climate Control Motor
01-11-2017, 11:42 AM
#1
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AC Climate Control Motor
I have a i30 2000 infiniti and the ac/heater blower doesn't come on. So far I have replace the resistor and tested it is getting power, checked fuses but I don't know how to test the blower motor so I need to know how to do that. Thanks.
01-11-2017, 09:26 PM
#3
Fail # 25 is the sunload sensor. It is located in the top of the dashboard in the defroster vent opening, all way to the right on the passenger side of the car.
If you are running this test outside at night or in a garage that is not brightly lit, this test will fail.
I am not sure if a bad sunload sensor would cause the fan to not run. Turn off the auto function, set the temperature to maximum and see if the fan runs. The sunload sensor is not used in this situation.
The fuses for the blower motor are under the hood by the battery, not in the dash by the steering wheel. The fan uses 2 fuses, both 15 amp and the cover says "BLOWER MOTOR". If these fuses are blown, the blower motor is bad.
But even if the fuses aren't blown, the blower motor may still be bad. You can test it by using a jumper wire to ground:
1) Unplug the Fan Control Amplifier (the thing you incorrectly called the resistor).
2) Turn the ignition switch to ON (you don't have to start the car if you don't want to).
3) Locate the thick blue with white stripe in the plug you disconnected and jumper it to ground. If the blower motor is good, the fan will spin. For a jumper wire, use a thick wire like the blue/white stripe wire because the fan uses 30 amps. Also note that if the blower motor is good, you will get kind of a big spark when you touch the jumper wire.
If you are running this test outside at night or in a garage that is not brightly lit, this test will fail.
I am not sure if a bad sunload sensor would cause the fan to not run. Turn off the auto function, set the temperature to maximum and see if the fan runs. The sunload sensor is not used in this situation.
The fuses for the blower motor are under the hood by the battery, not in the dash by the steering wheel. The fan uses 2 fuses, both 15 amp and the cover says "BLOWER MOTOR". If these fuses are blown, the blower motor is bad.
But even if the fuses aren't blown, the blower motor may still be bad. You can test it by using a jumper wire to ground:
1) Unplug the Fan Control Amplifier (the thing you incorrectly called the resistor).
2) Turn the ignition switch to ON (you don't have to start the car if you don't want to).
3) Locate the thick blue with white stripe in the plug you disconnected and jumper it to ground. If the blower motor is good, the fan will spin. For a jumper wire, use a thick wire like the blue/white stripe wire because the fan uses 30 amps. Also note that if the blower motor is good, you will get kind of a big spark when you touch the jumper wire.
01-12-2017, 09:17 AM
#4
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What I ended up doing was test the plug to the blower and it showed power at each fan level from 4.0 (approx) to 9.0 (approx) as you increased the fan speed. This is the only plug I had disconnected (amplifier connector was connected). Amplifier plug was also tested for power. Fan doesn't run at any fan speed at this time. I removed the glove box, removed the fan and jumped it directly to the battery and it ran so I hooked it up to the plug inside car and it also ran so I reinstalled it turned on the car and it ran in all positions however when my wife started the car this morning it no longer ran in any position. Fan?
Last edited by James Munsell; 01-12-2017 at 01:42 PM.
01-12-2017, 04:15 PM
#5
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By the way I was in a poorly lit garage so that explains the fail. All other tests completed successfully. Strange the fan worked when jumped then worked on the plug and reinstalled then failed in the morning.
01-12-2017, 04:54 PM
#7
It is possible that the problem may still be the fan. The blower motor has been replaced by many people - it does not seem to have a long life. In your situation, the brushes may be wearing out and cannot maintain a good enough constant connection with the commutator. Try tapping on the end of the motor where the brushes are and see if the motor spins. If it does, then the brushes are the problem and you will have to replace the motor.
I don't think that the way you checked voltages was a valid method. You should have had all the connectors on. The way that the fan is wired is that 12 volts from the fuses goes directly to the blower motor. The speed of the motor is controlled by regulating the ground wire side of the motor. Here is the way I test the fan and the control amplifier. The numbers are voltages.
I don't think that the way you checked voltages was a valid method. You should have had all the connectors on. The way that the fan is wired is that 12 volts from the fuses goes directly to the blower motor. The speed of the motor is controlled by regulating the ground wire side of the motor. Here is the way I test the fan and the control amplifier. The numbers are voltages.
Code:
The connector for the Fan Control Amplifier is a 4 pin connector, but only has 3 wires in it. All wiring connectors are connected. Pin 1 - blue/white stripe - 12 volts coming through the blower motor windings. Pin 2 - blue/yellow stripe - control leg of the amplifier Pin 3 - black wire - chassis ground. fan pin 1 pin 2 speed (motor) (control) ----- ------- --------- off 11.9 0.01 1 7.6 2.6 2 4.1 2.9 3 1.3 3.2 4 0.45 8.2 This was done with the car's engine off. If you have the engine running, you will probably get higher readings.
01-12-2017, 05:25 PM
#8
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When it did run I did here a slight amount of noise from the fan I will try tapping on it to make it go. Sledge hammer work? lol I'm stupid with this stuff however I do know how to use a tester. lol Thanks again.
It is possible that the problem may still be the fan. The blower motor has been replaced by many people - it does not seem to have a long life. In your situation, the brushes may be wearing out and cannot maintain a good enough constant connection with the commutator. Try tapping on the end of the motor where the brushes are and see if the motor spins. If it does, then the brushes are the problem and you will have to replace the motor.
I don't think that the way you checked voltages was a valid method. You should have had all the connectors on. The way that the fan is wired is that 12 volts from the fuses goes directly to the blower motor. The speed of the motor is controlled by regulating the ground wire side of the motor. Here is the way I test the fan and the control amplifier. The numbers are voltages.
I don't think that the way you checked voltages was a valid method. You should have had all the connectors on. The way that the fan is wired is that 12 volts from the fuses goes directly to the blower motor. The speed of the motor is controlled by regulating the ground wire side of the motor. Here is the way I test the fan and the control amplifier. The numbers are voltages.
Code:
The connector for the Fan Control Amplifier is a 4 pin connector, but only has 3 wires in it. All wiring connectors are connected. Pin 1 - blue/white stripe - 12 volts coming through the blower motor windings. Pin 2 - blue/yellow stripe - control leg of the amplifier Pin 3 - black wire - chassis ground. fan pin 1 pin 2 speed (motor) (control) ----- ------- --------- off 11.9 0.01 1 7.6 2.6 2 4.1 2.9 3 1.3 3.2 4 0.45 8.2 This was done with the car's engine off. If you have the engine running, you will probably get higher readings.