Code P01448, Valve Control valve cleaning
03-12-2018, 11:30 AM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 66
Code P01448, Valve Control valve cleaning
Folks, for couple of months I got P01448 code (I35 2002) popping up one-two times a week and finally past weekend I have decided to get to it. I did not have a new valve, but decided to remove it and see if it is broken before ordering the new one. I have read several reviews beforehand indicating that it is not easy to unscrew 2 bolts holding the valve that are screwed into the vacuum canister. So, in preparation to the repair, I was soaking these bolts (as well as 3 other bolts holding evap canister) for at least 2 weeks. I guess they soaked well or they were not rusted at all, but it took less than couple of minutes to unscrew them.
What gave me trouble was the electrical connector that took a lot of time to disconnect. The confusing part was that in some previous threads I read people were lifting the connector pin to disconnect it.
When I looked at the connector lifting the pin did not seem as the right way to disconnect it, however I tried to lift it also, although very carefully preventing it from braking. I have also tried to push it hard while pulling it apart-no luck. Then I used W-40 which I sprayed right between 2 parts of connector and waited and sprayed again and eventually pushed the pin hard and there was a click-then I was able to disconnect it.
After that I connected valve connector pins to the battery and tried to activate the valve. The solenoid was not moving. That indicated it got stuck (or rusted inside). I used again W40 to spray just inside the valve where solenoid it and after couple of minutes tried to activate it again. The solenoid started moving and I exercised it at least 30 times. At that point I put the valve back and assume it is back in operation.
There was no code for the first commute to work today.
Another thing I want to mention is to watch the polarity on the valve for Plus and Minus as they are not indicated on the valve. I looked at the wires coming to the connector. Both wires were multicolored but I used for Plus the one that has some black component. I was correct as it was the right polarity.
I hope my experience could help someone with the same issue
What gave me trouble was the electrical connector that took a lot of time to disconnect. The confusing part was that in some previous threads I read people were lifting the connector pin to disconnect it.
When I looked at the connector lifting the pin did not seem as the right way to disconnect it, however I tried to lift it also, although very carefully preventing it from braking. I have also tried to push it hard while pulling it apart-no luck. Then I used W-40 which I sprayed right between 2 parts of connector and waited and sprayed again and eventually pushed the pin hard and there was a click-then I was able to disconnect it.
After that I connected valve connector pins to the battery and tried to activate the valve. The solenoid was not moving. That indicated it got stuck (or rusted inside). I used again W40 to spray just inside the valve where solenoid it and after couple of minutes tried to activate it again. The solenoid started moving and I exercised it at least 30 times. At that point I put the valve back and assume it is back in operation.
There was no code for the first commute to work today.
Another thing I want to mention is to watch the polarity on the valve for Plus and Minus as they are not indicated on the valve. I looked at the wires coming to the connector. Both wires were multicolored but I used for Plus the one that has some black component. I was correct as it was the right polarity.
I hope my experience could help someone with the same issue
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