Schmellyfart's 4th gen
04-09-2014, 12:58 AM
#281
Long term review?
All of my dynos are posted on the org, as are my fuel fill ups on fuelly, which usually have somewhat detailed notes, link in sig. The lightly modded 3.5 outperforms my old 3.0 in almost every single way, even with the crappy powerband it has while being untuned.
Negatives: Oil burning (case by case basis, I know), fuel economy, otherwise everything else is just like stock.
Fuel economy was decent when I had the 225s as I was still getting 25-27mpg, but I always spun through 2nd gear. I was able to bring it back up to 29mpg with the millenia wheels, though. I then got 245s to alleviate the traction issue, which helped for a while, but fuel economy dropped to 25. When untuned the powerband blows. There is no power until 4-5k rpm, and as a result I can't step on it in 1st or even roll onto the throttle in 1st as it will just light the tires up and not go anywhere. I did not have those issues when the car was street tuned w/ EU on the 225s; they were right at their limit for grip. However its an animal from a 40 roll with the 5mt. I pulled away from our untuned pig rich 5.7 sans evt with nearly identical mods.
That being said, I have left it nearly stock so I could enjoy adding power again. My 3.5 will eventually be fully bolted like my 3.0 was, I'm just taking it slow and enjoying the process.
If I were to swap again, only other motor I would consider besides a 3.5 is a VQ30DD but thats a pipe dream in itself.
All of my dynos are posted on the org, as are my fuel fill ups on fuelly, which usually have somewhat detailed notes, link in sig. The lightly modded 3.5 outperforms my old 3.0 in almost every single way, even with the crappy powerband it has while being untuned.
Negatives: Oil burning (case by case basis, I know), fuel economy, otherwise everything else is just like stock.
Fuel economy was decent when I had the 225s as I was still getting 25-27mpg, but I always spun through 2nd gear. I was able to bring it back up to 29mpg with the millenia wheels, though. I then got 245s to alleviate the traction issue, which helped for a while, but fuel economy dropped to 25. When untuned the powerband blows. There is no power until 4-5k rpm, and as a result I can't step on it in 1st or even roll onto the throttle in 1st as it will just light the tires up and not go anywhere. I did not have those issues when the car was street tuned w/ EU on the 225s; they were right at their limit for grip. However its an animal from a 40 roll with the 5mt. I pulled away from our untuned pig rich 5.7 sans evt with nearly identical mods.
That being said, I have left it nearly stock so I could enjoy adding power again. My 3.5 will eventually be fully bolted like my 3.0 was, I'm just taking it slow and enjoying the process.
If I were to swap again, only other motor I would consider besides a 3.5 is a VQ30DD but thats a pipe dream in itself.
04-09-2014, 08:51 PM
#282
Long term review?
All of my dynos are posted on the org, as are my fuel fill ups on fuelly, which usually have somewhat detailed notes, link in sig. The lightly modded 3.5 outperforms my old 3.0 in almost every single way, even with the crappy powerband it has while being untuned.
Negatives: Oil burning (case by case basis, I know), fuel economy, otherwise everything else is just like stock.
Fuel economy was decent when I had the 225s as I was still getting 25-27mpg, but I always spun through 2nd gear. I was able to bring it back up to 29mpg with the millenia wheels, though. I then got 245s to alleviate the traction issue, which helped for a while, but fuel economy dropped to 25. When untuned the powerband blows. There is no power until 4-5k rpm, and as a result I can't step on it in 1st or even roll onto the throttle in 1st as it will just light the tires up and not go anywhere. I did not have those issues when the car was street tuned w/ EU on the 225s; they were right at their limit for grip. However its an animal from a 40 roll with the 5mt. I pulled away from our untuned pig rich 5.7 sans evt with nearly identical mods.
That being said, I have left it nearly stock so I could enjoy adding power again. My 3.5 will eventually be fully bolted like my 3.0 was, I'm just taking it slow and enjoying the process.
If I were to swap again, only other motor I would consider besides a 3.5 is a VQ30DD but thats a pipe dream in itself.
All of my dynos are posted on the org, as are my fuel fill ups on fuelly, which usually have somewhat detailed notes, link in sig. The lightly modded 3.5 outperforms my old 3.0 in almost every single way, even with the crappy powerband it has while being untuned.
Negatives: Oil burning (case by case basis, I know), fuel economy, otherwise everything else is just like stock.
Fuel economy was decent when I had the 225s as I was still getting 25-27mpg, but I always spun through 2nd gear. I was able to bring it back up to 29mpg with the millenia wheels, though. I then got 245s to alleviate the traction issue, which helped for a while, but fuel economy dropped to 25. When untuned the powerband blows. There is no power until 4-5k rpm, and as a result I can't step on it in 1st or even roll onto the throttle in 1st as it will just light the tires up and not go anywhere. I did not have those issues when the car was street tuned w/ EU on the 225s; they were right at their limit for grip. However its an animal from a 40 roll with the 5mt. I pulled away from our untuned pig rich 5.7 sans evt with nearly identical mods.
That being said, I have left it nearly stock so I could enjoy adding power again. My 3.5 will eventually be fully bolted like my 3.0 was, I'm just taking it slow and enjoying the process.
If I were to swap again, only other motor I would consider besides a 3.5 is a VQ30DD but thats a pipe dream in itself.
Well. Now the red car has a motor, yaay
Time for me to get on to the rest of the build.
I just hope to god it's faster than the I35 though
04-10-2014, 10:45 AM
#286
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Inglewood up to no good
Posts: 131
Long term review?
All of my dynos are posted on the org, as are my fuel fill ups on fuelly, which usually have somewhat detailed notes, link in sig. The lightly modded 3.5 outperforms my old 3.0 in almost every single way, even with the crappy powerband it has while being untuned.
Negatives: Oil burning (case by case basis, I know), fuel economy, otherwise everything else is just like stock.
Fuel economy was decent when I had the 225s as I was still getting 25-27mpg, but I always spun through 2nd gear. I was able to bring it back up to 29mpg with the millenia wheels, though. I then got 245s to alleviate the traction issue, which helped for a while, but fuel economy dropped to 25. When untuned the powerband blows. There is no power until 4-5k rpm, and as a result I can't step on it in 1st or even roll onto the throttle in 1st as it will just light the tires up and not go anywhere. I did not have those issues when the car was street tuned w/ EU on the 225s; they were right at their limit for grip. However its an animal from a 40 roll with the 5mt. I pulled away from our untuned pig rich 5.7 sans evt with nearly identical mods.
That being said, I have left it nearly stock so I could enjoy adding power again. My 3.5 will eventually be fully bolted like my 3.0 was, I'm just taking it slow and enjoying the process.
If I were to swap again, only other motor I would consider besides a 3.5 is a VQ30DD but thats a pipe dream in itself.
All of my dynos are posted on the org, as are my fuel fill ups on fuelly, which usually have somewhat detailed notes, link in sig. The lightly modded 3.5 outperforms my old 3.0 in almost every single way, even with the crappy powerband it has while being untuned.
Negatives: Oil burning (case by case basis, I know), fuel economy, otherwise everything else is just like stock.
Fuel economy was decent when I had the 225s as I was still getting 25-27mpg, but I always spun through 2nd gear. I was able to bring it back up to 29mpg with the millenia wheels, though. I then got 245s to alleviate the traction issue, which helped for a while, but fuel economy dropped to 25. When untuned the powerband blows. There is no power until 4-5k rpm, and as a result I can't step on it in 1st or even roll onto the throttle in 1st as it will just light the tires up and not go anywhere. I did not have those issues when the car was street tuned w/ EU on the 225s; they were right at their limit for grip. However its an animal from a 40 roll with the 5mt. I pulled away from our untuned pig rich 5.7 sans evt with nearly identical mods.
That being said, I have left it nearly stock so I could enjoy adding power again. My 3.5 will eventually be fully bolted like my 3.0 was, I'm just taking it slow and enjoying the process.
If I were to swap again, only other motor I would consider besides a 3.5 is a VQ30DD but thats a pipe dream in itself.
I couldn't agree anymore Leonard.....
04-12-2014, 02:26 PM
#293
I'm going to try out a 02 Sentra tranny in the red car just for
's while I rebuild the one that lost 2nd gear.Also that CGI rendering is quite interesting, especially how hard that rendered 4th gen pulls in the simulated 3rd gear
Also a heavier car, higher powered will have a hard time on any low speed roll vs a lighter counterpart, just based on my scientific research.
04-12-2014, 08:48 PM
#294
Dem 4.1's.
I'm going to try out a 02 Sentra tranny in the red car just for's while I rebuild the one that lost 2nd gear.
Also that CGI rendering is quite interesting, especially how hard that rendered 4th gen pulls in the simulated 3rd gear
Also a heavier car, higher powered will have a hard time on any low speed roll vs a lighter counterpart, just based on my scientific research.
I'm going to try out a 02 Sentra tranny in the red car just for
's while I rebuild the one that lost 2nd gear.Also that CGI rendering is quite interesting, especially how hard that rendered 4th gen pulls in the simulated 3rd gear
Also a heavier car, higher powered will have a hard time on any low speed roll vs a lighter counterpart, just based on my scientific research.
You must not have seen the jimmies I rustled on my5th. As is, both cars still have a lot left on the table but if he starts shedding weight, I'm screwed.
We performed other simulations that did not make the cut in which the rendered 4th gen still remained victorious.
04-14-2014, 10:37 AM
#295
schmellyfart do you have thread where it list how you performed a codeless 3.5 swap? I believe my old 3.0 is just plain tired now plus may need a set of injectors and upon review a full set of new injectors cost more the a 3.5 engine.also another member crusher suggested to do the swap so I have started the research process.
04-14-2014, 11:03 AM
#296
04-17-2014, 09:27 AM
#299
amazing! looks good!, im trying to figure out how to do it on a stillen lip w minimal screws.
looks like no screws on the front? just tape & resting on that bumper? i gotta do tape i think.
are you going to do anything in the front mudflap area in other words how does the wheel well liner look when it meets the front tray
looks like no screws on the front? just tape & resting on that bumper? i gotta do tape i think.
are you going to do anything in the front mudflap area in other words how does the wheel well liner look when it meets the front tray
Last edited by Prophecy99; 04-17-2014 at 09:30 AM.
04-17-2014, 03:21 PM
#300
amazing! looks good!, im trying to figure out how to do it on a stillen lip w minimal screws.
looks like no screws on the front? just tape & resting on that bumper? i gotta do tape i think.
are you going to do anything in the front mudflap area in other words how does the wheel well liner look when it meets the front tray
looks like no screws on the front? just tape & resting on that bumper? i gotta do tape i think.
are you going to do anything in the front mudflap area in other words how does the wheel well liner look when it meets the front tray
I used all but one factory screws on the bumper. I took the OEM clips and reversed them so the bolts have to be inserted from the top, leaving the threads poking out the bottom.
Are you talking about in front or behind the front tires? In front, the undertray is just sandwiched underneath the fender liner. I'm also considering adding tire spats to the undertray. I do have a set of mudflaps that I want to cover so they slowly taper towards the body, but that's a lot of work.
04-17-2014, 10:35 PM
#301
4.4s will be nuts.
You must not have seen the jimmies I rustled on my5th. As is, both cars still have a lot left on the table but if he starts shedding weight, I'm screwed.
We performed other simulations that did not make the cut in which the rendered 4th gen still remained victorious.
You must not have seen the jimmies I rustled on my5th. As is, both cars still have a lot left on the table but if he starts shedding weight, I'm screwed.
We performed other simulations that did not make the cut in which the rendered 4th gen still remained victorious.
But the next tranny will have 03+ gears and that JDM 6th, that will be a nucking futs ride, that's a bit down the line, right now it's just buy 02 tranny, install in bellhousing, resume rest of build.
I don't hang around there at all, but I plan on rustling some soon too with the 09 max swappers
. with or without the dirtyFinally finished up my Coroplast Front Undertray after rolling with it taped up the past two months.
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/js3D1Hql.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/2EtshLvl.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/9Vb9NjNl.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/FvYDaPdl.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/kTOsKgul.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/js3D1Hql.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/2EtshLvl.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/9Vb9NjNl.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/FvYDaPdl.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/kTOsKgul.jpg[IMG]
How much does this weigh? And Excuse the n00bness, but what's the header clearance like and any worries about heat wear on the material?
04-18-2014, 09:47 AM
#302
Not really, the 02 gearing makes it pretty much the same as the 4.1
But the next tranny will have 03+ gears and that JDM 6th, that will be a nucking futs ride, that's a bit down the line, right now it's just buy 02 tranny, install in bellhousing, resume rest of build.
I don't hang around there at all, but I plan on rustling some soon too with the 09 max swappers. with or without the dirty
megusta.jpg
How much does this weigh? And Excuse the n00bness, but what's the header clearance like and any worries about heat wear on the material?
But the next tranny will have 03+ gears and that JDM 6th, that will be a nucking futs ride, that's a bit down the line, right now it's just buy 02 tranny, install in bellhousing, resume rest of build.
I don't hang around there at all, but I plan on rustling some soon too with the 09 max swappers
. with or without the dirtymegusta.jpg
How much does this weigh? And Excuse the n00bness, but what's the header clearance like and any worries about heat wear on the material?
I actually didn't weigh this one
The full 6'x3' sheet weighs 3.55lbs according to home depot, so its probably a hair under 3lbs. No problems on header clearance. I've had it on for the past two months and no issues yet.
05-07-2014, 09:50 PM
#303
A few months back I posted in here about a B14 fuel tank, the one in particular was missing the fuel temp sensor. While not a deal breaker it was an annoying detail I didn't really want to mess with. Upon browsing Craigslist for Sentra part outs, I came across a fuel sending unit with a fuel temp sensor and identical connections to the A32 harness
The only issue left with using a B14 fuel tank in an A32 is coming up with a custom mounting solution! Then I'll be on my way to saving 30lbs in fuel.
The only issue left with using a B14 fuel tank in an A32 is coming up with a custom mounting solution! Then I'll be on my way to saving 30lbs in fuel.
05-08-2014, 09:45 PM
#304
OEM hood w/hood struts: 43lbs
No name CF hood w/o hood struts: 24lbs
19lbs savings
.242lbs saved from the green densos and smaller clips mentioned earlier
.984 lbs trunk bracing removed
Puts me at 2899.952 lbs.
Also forgot to add in the removal of the RSB, which puts me at 2883.952lbs
No name CF hood w/o hood struts: 24lbs
19lbs savings
.242lbs saved from the green densos and smaller clips mentioned earlier
.984 lbs trunk bracing removed
Puts me at 2899.952 lbs.
Also forgot to add in the removal of the RSB, which puts me at 2883.952lbs
Last edited by schmellyfart; 05-08-2014 at 09:50 PM.
07-24-2014, 08:36 PM
#305
Pulled out my retrofitted headlights with morimoto mini h1s since they stopped working on me and I don't really want to sink much more time or money into fixing the problem. Driving with stock headlights again may make me reconsider. We'll see.
Total weight over stock headlights including relay harness and ballasts: ~2.5lbs
2881.452lbs.
Total weight over stock headlights including relay harness and ballasts: ~2.5lbs
2881.452lbs.
07-30-2014, 09:35 PM
#306
Made some progress with the car today.
I wasn't able to connect to the ECU through the consult port with my laptop. So I checked the voltages of pins 75, 76, and 78 per the FSM (EC-99) only to find out I was getting battery voltage at two of the pins rather than 5-9v, 3.3v and 0v. Tracing the wires, there are two light green colored wires on the ECU connector. One goes to the cooling fan relay, the other to the Consult port. I checked continuity and sure enough I had them swapped (I replaced my ECU connector around October of last year, I may have mentioned it in here or in my swap thread). Once I swapped the two wires I was good to go, I was able to connect through the consult port. Now I can get to work with my Nistune ECU
I've already raised the rev limit to 7000rpm which now keeps my in my powerband, and feels way better than before. Next up is Q45 MAF, 75mm tb, SSIM.
Also since I had my consult wire swapped with the cooling fan relay, you guessed it, my coolant fans haven't been running for the past 9 months! I did notice that my fans weren't on when parking after 2+ hour drives, but thought nothing of it since my Scan Gauge II didn't show the coolant temps rising over 200°F. Even when I got stuck in rush hour traffic for 3 hours in southern California, my ECT didn't creep up over 200°F, even though my IAT was up to 160°F. I owe that one to my Mishimoto AL dual core radiator.
I wasn't able to connect to the ECU through the consult port with my laptop. So I checked the voltages of pins 75, 76, and 78 per the FSM (EC-99) only to find out I was getting battery voltage at two of the pins rather than 5-9v, 3.3v and 0v. Tracing the wires, there are two light green colored wires on the ECU connector. One goes to the cooling fan relay, the other to the Consult port. I checked continuity and sure enough I had them swapped (I replaced my ECU connector around October of last year, I may have mentioned it in here or in my swap thread). Once I swapped the two wires I was good to go, I was able to connect through the consult port. Now I can get to work with my Nistune ECU
I've already raised the rev limit to 7000rpm which now keeps my in my powerband, and feels way better than before. Next up is Q45 MAF, 75mm tb, SSIM.
Also since I had my consult wire swapped with the cooling fan relay, you guessed it, my coolant fans haven't been running for the past 9 months! I did notice that my fans weren't on when parking after 2+ hour drives, but thought nothing of it since my Scan Gauge II didn't show the coolant temps rising over 200°F. Even when I got stuck in rush hour traffic for 3 hours in southern California, my ECT didn't creep up over 200°F, even though my IAT was up to 160°F. I owe that one to my Mishimoto AL dual core radiator.
07-31-2014, 06:11 PM
#308
It started out as the headlights would shut off after a bit of driving (can't recall how long maybe 5 min), I turn the headlight switch off and on again and the headlights come back on without issue. Then it progressed to flipping the headlight switch would do nothing, and the headlights would go out before I even got out of my neighborhood (~.5 mile). Now they don't even turn on. Its a bit of a drive to get other parts from other locals, just haven't mustered any motivation to make the drive for it.
My setup: Morimoto mH1s, local companies 5000k H1 hids & digital ballasts, and the eBay relay harness you linked on facebook a year or two ago.
Fuse in relay harness is fine, Grounds were wiped off and reattached, all plug in connections were disconnected and firmly reconnected. A friend lent me a set of analog ballasts that "may or may not work", they did not work when I tried them. Its a bit of a drive to get other parts from other locals, just haven't mustered any motivation to make the drive for it.
So far so good with nistune. Its taking a little getting used to the software compared to the eManage Ultimate. Changing MAFs and rev limiter is painfully simple compared to the EU, both have their own drop down list and that's it!
Last edited by schmellyfart; 07-31-2014 at 06:13 PM.
07-31-2014, 07:00 PM
#309
Have you tried testing the bulbs/ballasts straight off the battery? To make sure they're firing? If they're fine, and I'm assuming the stock headlights work, then the only other thing it could be is the relay harness. It was so cheap that I wouldn't be surprised if it has already failed although I didn't expect it to. In that case I would grab a Morimoto harness and call it a day. A little pricier but works flawlessly on my car. I no longer run my hacked up eBay harness.
You'll just have to swap the brown and white wires in the blue stock style connector and you'll be good to go. It comes pinned for 9007 from them but YouTube how to swap the pins. It's super easy.
Glad to hear about Nistune. Definitely going that route when I boost the car.
You'll just have to swap the brown and white wires in the blue stock style connector and you'll be good to go. It comes pinned for 9007 from them but YouTube how to swap the pins. It's super easy.
Glad to hear about Nistune. Definitely going that route when I boost the car.
07-31-2014, 08:52 PM
#310
Which wires would I connect to the battery? The 2 pin connector, or the two single pin connectors? The stock headlights are working fine. Is it this harness:http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.U9sN8PldUQA
As of right now there is no option for a MAP sensor with nistune. Word on the street is that Matt (Nistune guy) is working on it.
As of right now there is no option for a MAP sensor with nistune. Word on the street is that Matt (Nistune guy) is working on it.
08-01-2014, 07:09 AM
#311
All you need to connect to the battery to test are two leads coming from the ballast input (ballast input has 9006 style connector). Just power and ground. Should fire right up.
That is the correct harness. You will have to swap the brown and white wires in this connector:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/med...ses-9007_1.jpg
I also heard they're going to be adding 2-step sometime in the future.
That is the correct harness. You will have to swap the brown and white wires in this connector:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/med...ses-9007_1.jpg
I also heard they're going to be adding 2-step sometime in the future.
08-02-2014, 02:02 PM
#312
All you need to connect to the battery to test are two leads coming from the ballast input (ballast input has 9006 style connector). Just power and ground. Should fire right up.
That is the correct harness. You will have to swap the brown and white wires in this connector:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/med...ses-9007_1.jpg
I also heard they're going to be adding 2-step sometime in the future.
That is the correct harness. You will have to swap the brown and white wires in this connector:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/med...ses-9007_1.jpg
I also heard they're going to be adding 2-step sometime in the future.
I got the Q45 MAF running, in addition to the drop down menu, I also had to adjust the k constant to get my a/f ratio in check. Closed loop is good, open loop is running a little lean and will need some fine tuning.
Current setup is a redrilled PFTB, 7th gen intake midpipe/accordion, Q45 MAF, 3.5" velocity stack, AEM Dryflow.
08-07-2014, 06:16 AM
#313
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 677
I know you've double checked your connections on the retro but just a thought: When I retro'd my '93 Altima a few years back (chrome bezeled, clear housing Depo lenses and Mini H1s with TRS relay harness and old hid kit ballasts) I had everything buttoned up and had a similar issue.
My solution ended up being the harness connector between the ballast and projector bulb harness. They were connected tightly but not powering on at times. The problem was that the actual wire leads inside the plastic connectors were pushing out of the connector slightly when connecting them together but I didn't realize it until one wire had actually almost pulled completely out of the connector on one side.
They've been working flawlessly the last 3 years, including constant abuse from crappy Memphis area pothole lined streets.
Jeremy
My solution ended up being the harness connector between the ballast and projector bulb harness. They were connected tightly but not powering on at times. The problem was that the actual wire leads inside the plastic connectors were pushing out of the connector slightly when connecting them together but I didn't realize it until one wire had actually almost pulled completely out of the connector on one side.
They've been working flawlessly the last 3 years, including constant abuse from crappy Memphis area pothole lined streets.
Jeremy
08-29-2014, 03:06 PM
#314
Appreciate the input, I tested out my bulbs and ballasts on a buddys car and they all worked fine. The $10 eBay harness seems to be the culprit. I have to open up the headlights to fix the high beam solenoid, still not sure if I want to reinstall them.
Also made a bracket for the intake, it bolts to the maf and two bolts on the side of the strut tower.
Also made a bracket for the intake, it bolts to the maf and two bolts on the side of the strut tower.
Last edited by schmellyfart; 08-29-2014 at 03:09 PM.
09-20-2014, 11:15 AM
#316
Well this is a little saddening. Installed two R888 on some 3rd gen wheels, I weighed the R888 beforehand at 21lbs each. The wheels and tires weigh in at 38lbs each, which means these 3rd gen wheels weigh 17lbs 
09-22-2014, 09:03 PM
#318
New personal best of 13.994@99.88. Best trap of the night was 100.78, and a new best 60' of 2.20.
Running 225/50R15 Toyo Proxes R888 on two 3rd gen wheels up front. With these tires, my 60' averaged high 2.2x. On my street tires I will usually be lucky to manage a low 2.3x. I'm still working on improving my launches, I had the best results launching at 3-3.5k with these tires after a burnout.
I also had a lot of trouble shifting into 3rd gear, moreso than usual, which resulted in many mid 14 sec passes at 98mph or so.
Wild Horsepass Motorsports Park (formerly Firebird International Raceway) in Chandler, AZ
Track Elevation: 1080ft
Density Altitude at time of my best run: 3560ft
Current setup:
+02 VQ35 w/3.0 timing, 7th gen injectors (Green Denso's), DE-K FPR, return fuel setup on a VQ35 fuel rail
+AEM Dryflow, 3.5" velocity stack, Q45 MAF, OEM 7th gen intake tubing
+PFTB
+NWP BOP
+NWP 5pc spacers
+Altima headers w/ 3" y pipe back
+2J-Racing UDP
+Nistune ECU [7000 RPM rev limit, AFR low 12s, ignition timing left untouched]
Race weight: 3016lbs with driver, tools, battery jump pack, and a little over 1/4 tank of gas.
Running 225/50R15 Toyo Proxes R888 on two 3rd gen wheels up front. With these tires, my 60' averaged high 2.2x. On my street tires I will usually be lucky to manage a low 2.3x. I'm still working on improving my launches, I had the best results launching at 3-3.5k with these tires after a burnout.
I also had a lot of trouble shifting into 3rd gear, moreso than usual, which resulted in many mid 14 sec passes at 98mph or so.
Wild Horsepass Motorsports Park (formerly Firebird International Raceway) in Chandler, AZ
Track Elevation: 1080ft
Density Altitude at time of my best run: 3560ft
Current setup:
+02 VQ35 w/3.0 timing, 7th gen injectors (Green Denso's), DE-K FPR, return fuel setup on a VQ35 fuel rail
+AEM Dryflow, 3.5" velocity stack, Q45 MAF, OEM 7th gen intake tubing
+PFTB
+NWP BOP
+NWP 5pc spacers
+Altima headers w/ 3" y pipe back
+2J-Racing UDP
+Nistune ECU [7000 RPM rev limit, AFR low 12s, ignition timing left untouched]
Race weight: 3016lbs with driver, tools, battery jump pack, and a little over 1/4 tank of gas.
Last edited by schmellyfart; 09-22-2014 at 09:05 PM.
12-25-2014, 04:21 PM
#320
Little update on the car. My front right shock totally blew out a couple months ago with about 120k miles on it. So I sent both front shocks to Feal Suspension out in Ontario, CA to be rebuilt and while I was at it I also purchased a pair of 8k swift springs for the front.
Their shock rebuild was $75 each, one needed a new shaft which was another $65. Which was still cheaper (sans the springs) than going to KSport and buying their new 52mm upgrade since the 50mm fronts are discontinued.
Swift 8k springs were both 2.34lbs each.
KSport 8k springs were 2.94lbs and 3.00lbs.
Stock suspension was 59.18lbs
KSport coilovers with 2 Swift springs was 34.43lbs, which gives a weight savings of 24.75 lbs.
I also installed a 2JR B15 3" Side Exit Exhaust https://maxima.org/forums/all-motor/...ml#post9010542
Cattman 3" Catback: 39lbs
2JR Side Exit: 23lbs
My savings for both of these 17.26 lbs. Which should put my vehicle weight at 2864.192lbs if I've been keeping track well enough.
Their shock rebuild was $75 each, one needed a new shaft which was another $65. Which was still cheaper (sans the springs) than going to KSport and buying their new 52mm upgrade since the 50mm fronts are discontinued.
Swift 8k springs were both 2.34lbs each.
KSport 8k springs were 2.94lbs and 3.00lbs.
Stock suspension was 59.18lbs
KSport coilovers with 2 Swift springs was 34.43lbs, which gives a weight savings of 24.75 lbs.
I also installed a 2JR B15 3" Side Exit Exhaust https://maxima.org/forums/all-motor/...ml#post9010542
Cattman 3" Catback: 39lbs
2JR Side Exit: 23lbs
My savings for both of these 17.26 lbs. Which should put my vehicle weight at 2864.192lbs if I've been keeping track well enough.
