...I need your help. I had a custom job done on my 97 SE, the shop that did it f**ked up BIGTIME on the whole setup.

I need to take a look at your turbo manifold setup and possibly how you guys situated your turbo opposed to mine.

You can see my sucky a** setup here,

http://photos.yahoo.com/avalon42 under Turbo Manifolds.

Any pictures or diagrams you could supply would be cool. Thanks for your help in advance.

-A

 

This album is currently empty.

 

Grr...stupid Yahoo!...it's there now.

-A

 

***edit**

I had to refresh my screen.

Car looks good

 

I can see the pics. Nice pics, sorry I cant help you. Cool turbo
Jules

 

get that battery out of there.. you have way more room to work with

 

what type of problems are you having? what are you trying to fix?

 

The battery is already back in the trunk. The shop that did the turbo installation did it WITH THE BATTERY RIGHT NEXT TO THE TURBO. According to most mechanics including my automotive instructor, car batteries are equivalent to small explosives, aren't they? Not cool that it's next to the turbo.

I've been getting some help from Nigel aka turbo97se, he told me that they totally jipped the flow from the rear banks (3 cylinders) and the front banks (3 cylinders). You can see where they just burnt the hole and welded the piping, I think this causes restriction and backpressure right for the front bank. Technically speaking, it is possible to twin turbo a 4th gen if we were just talking exhaust setup, however, I don't know how in the heck you would be able to route all the intake/intercooler piping.

I notice that if I do hard acceleration over 4k rpm, the freakin thing starts sputtering. It might have to do with the poor flow from my downpipe, but it really sounds like the exhaust manifold (s).

My question or request is to see what works. I'd like to get a diagram or several digital pictures of existing exhaust manifolds and turbo setup from the bottom.

Thanks in advance.

-A

 

Wow, I'm no expert, but that does look like a bad setup, their is NO WAY that exhaust can flow smoothly out of their... I think you would be better off with some sort of angled Y-pipe, coming away from the manifolds and meeting close to the turbo... Good luck.

 

ughhh

too hard to follow those pics. so your ojnly feeding the turbo from the front bank? wondering where the wastegate and oil lines are?

 

Glad to hear you moved the battery, that would have been some serious meltdown if the turbo warmed up!

It's actually pretty straightforward to make your setup flow better. I am shocked to see what I saw!

 

No, it look like they made a U-shaped pipe to connect the two banks, and then tapped into it near the front bank to feed the turbo, in the opposite direction of flow...

 

I spoke to PFI, according to them, Nigel's running a modified Y-pipe, then a J elbow and T flange that runs into the turbo. This sounds like it could work very well with the flow. The mad scientist Kennedy @ Premier and me will have to go over that though on Wednesday.

Nigel, you running 3" exhaust from the downpipe all the way back? Any cat on yours?

-A

 

How much is that shop coasting you to build a custom turbo?


-Chris

 

It cost me 4k, then I put down another 2k for the Tec3 electromotive crankfire system. Our Maximas really do like high octane gas with the boost cranked up. Too bad our head gaskets suck...speaking of which, does anyone know where we can get metal headgaskets for 4th gens?

-A

 

well u really got bent over and ****ed with no Ky huh...6k damn....

 

Yeah 6,000 is alot....well it seems just about right.


I wounder why he did not you just go for the Colorado kit?

-ChRi§

 

wow a turbo max in so cali. i would really like to see the setup when everything is done.

 

I said 2k went into a standalone engine management system which I can tune to my boost liking with my laptop, about 4k went in the turbo project. The Tec3 system is also crankfire, hence, no distributor system and runs trigger wheel with mag sensor. Very cool indeed.

I would have gone the route of installing PFI's turbo kit, but at the time, I did not know of its existence. Now I do. Oh well. Hindsight is always 20/20, right?

I want to go the same route as Tilleys99 and get the VQ30DET internals so I can crank the damned boost higher. Anyone know where I can buy some A33 Cima aka JDM Q45 engine internals reliably?

I PROMISE to provide everyone with details+pictures on the setup of the system, as well as exact costs involved to bring your Maxima to turbo. There are plenty of s/c running around, not enough turbos if you ask me. I am glad that when I come to this forum, I can get some geniune members that help out. Others that just are flamers and haters can just kiss my taillights.

-A

 

what makes you think the stock head gaskets suck? blown a couple before? anyways, the stock gasket IS metal and is good. maybe not the best but is a good gasket. when i build my motor i searched forever for any companies to make me one. Everyone said it wasnt worth their time and efford. In the end i used an australian brand head gasket.

 

Yes, blown one under 22psi. The thing was hauling *** and drinking pure racing octane, 138 I think.

-A

 

Who's installing the engine management? You might want to learn all you can about how they set it up. Incase you ever have to replace he motor, you'll know what to swap to the new motor.

I finally got my Haltech to work. Now it's just about tunning.

 

hahah alot of things will blow at 22psi. I blew my motor like that too. If you blew your motor would you blame the motor saying it sucks?

 

Listen, what I'm trying to say is that you'd think there would be more aftermarket support for the VQ engines.

Tell you what, I can find high boost metal gaskets for my 1988 Nissan Maxima. Why? Because it has a VG30E engine, just minus the turbo and RWD application from the 84-89 Turbo 300ZXs. I can find low comp internals, etc. I pay homage to the SR20DET, but I think it's damned time that we get some aftermarket support to build our engines for major a**kickin.

I hate seeing an Integra run almost 28psi with a built motor. It ****es me off.

I can't think of any Nissan/Datsun product that sucks. Hell, I have three Nissans, probably will stay brand loyal for the rest of my life.

-A

 

I recommend to lower your compression ratio before trying to do anything else!!! At that PSI level (22) no wonder your car sputters at higher rpm.... Even with a very high octane gas, you can only crank up your boost around 15 psi to have in run reliably.

 

Mr.Cranman can get you gloria(A34) internals from japan.
Including pistons,crank,rods + intake manifold. I asked him before.
Brand new parts and his prices are reasonable.
email him.

 

4k foer parts or just install?

 

whoa! auto turbos are out now?

 

...well, truth be told, the VQ30DET engine and its internals are not as strong as everyone thinks they are. They have a breaking point past 20~psi. That's too bad. So this brings me to my next phase: everything custom fabricated.

Pistons: Either Arias or Cunningham forged pistons, cost is about $150-250 per cylinder

Rods: Either Cunningham, Crower, or

Cams: JWT billet camshafts and cam gears, these are NOT grinds contrary to what everyone was told, these are custom manufactured. Their release date is somewhere from 4 to 6 weeks, but JWT has been saying that like forever, and it ain't helping me to wait so damned long.

Head Gasket, Intake Manifold: will come from the VQ30DET. The head gasket is slightly thicker for the DET that the DE, also the intake manifold allows what I believe more optimum flow for the head. Plus it makes it damned better to work with, as the plenum is short and rounded off towards the right side of the car, rather the left.

So, right now, off the top of my head, it's going to cost around $3500~5500 to build a motor that can handle above 20 psi. Breaking it in slowly might help, I won't put the engine under that much stress until I am sure.

Also on my mind is swapping to a manual tranmission. I don't know if I want to just yet, but I might. It might just be advantageous to stay automatic given I live in So. Cal.

So, now we are in Standby Phase as all the parts are almost ordered and take 3 to 4 weeks to fabricate, excluding the cams from JWT, which are going to take damned longer.

And there you have it. I promise to keep this board updated about this project if need be, and provide pictures and info as this project unfolds. Thanks for your patience and support.

-A

 

damn, that has got to be the worst custom job I've ever seen