I am going to the Nissan dealer to make an offer this afternoon. I appologize for all the posts, but was new to the site last night. I totalled my Accord last week and have decided on the Maxima. After driving a 4cyl, the 2000 has plenty of pop for me and I don't want to spend over 26k for a new one. The one I am looking at is a 2000 SE Super Black with leather and all available options. It has only 15k miles. They have it listed at 20995. What is a reasonable offer. Edmunds trade in value is 17k. Blue Book is 15500. I would appreciate some negotiating tips and any opions regarding this matter. Thanks much guys!
Jon

 

that list price seems a little high. as far as bargaining, i cant help you out too much. but just explain the advantages of the 2k2-2k3 and see if they really want to move the older one off their lot.

 

take someone with you that has negotiating skills

 

I heard Rev Jessie Jackson has lots of free time on his hands these days

 

act like you don't need the car. Say if they can do it for $15k, you'll sign right now. If they try and say it's firm, just start to leave.

 

Wow!!! Since when Edmunds has a higher value than Blue Book? I always thought Blue Book tends to quote higher...

Anyway, like NickStam said, act casual and you don't really care about it. When I tried to buy a '97 SE (fully loaded) ~2 years ago, I get the price set on $16k. The deal didn't went through because the dealer pretty much want my trade-in free.

Normally, I will set a price based on my research (said take a average of Edmunds and Blue Book, or based on the local newspaper ad). Then I will start the negotiation ~$800 lower than my price. Everytime the sales go "talk" to their manager, I will negotiate a little bit, then pretend I have no choice and increase my offer for couple hunderds; keep this going for a few times. If it hit my set price and still no deal, I walk.

 

 

Dont even go to the dealer. If you have already test driven the car, do it all by phone or fax. Call them and ask them point blank if they will sell you the car today for $15.5k.

 

15.5 is a bit too high based on market conditions. 20995 is outrageuous, I think a 2k2 with 0 miles can be had for that + 1000. I'd do a reality check, offer them 14 and say you have to have the car by next Fri. and you'll go to several dealers and get it. Believe me, even if they play that my kids gotta eat too routine, they'll be calling back, how about 14.5 and you pick it up by wed?

Remember, the customer is in the drivers seat. We are not talking about a Honda or German car that has a waiting list! Betta witt u head, not over it!

 

Reality check for you...14K for a fully loaded Maxima with only 15K miles when the TRADE-IN value is 15.5K? Hello, that ought to be a fair estimate of what a dealer will GIVE you for the car. They've got to sell it AT LEAST a grand or so above that. The car retailed for close to 30K new. You're telling me that 15,000 miles later, it's worth less than HALF its original value? If that's the case, I'm NEVER buying a new car again!

I think the dealer will flat-out laugh in your face if you offer anything less than 17K, and rightly so. It's a great car, sure the 2K2 hurts resale, but you're not going to get a similarly optioned 2K2 with less miles for under 20K. 3K for 33 hp difference seems fair to me.

Maxima.org...you sometimes make me laugh at how you all want something for nothing.

 

I agree. I think he would laugh in my face if I offered 15k. The blue book trade in value is 15,500. This car only has 15,000 miles on it. I know its not worth 20995, but come one they aren't going to take 14k for it. Lets get realistic.

 

Have your own financing already avail. Then it would be like paying cash.....

 

It's your money after all, and you are free to overspend as much as you like. In 1998 I was looking at used 1996 Maximas--they were also asking around 20. I offered 15, they said would I be willing to consider a 95 for that price. I said no. They called back 2 days later and said am I still interested? I said no. Why not? Because I could buy a brand-new zero miles 98 for only 2 grand more than what they wanted for the 96 which had around 27k miles. Do you really believe you get 6 grand off list the first place you go? I had to go to 2 dealers to get them to take about 6300 off the sticker which was 29.4. It's a market, you think Nissan builds a car that is worth 30 grand given the market? Of course not. It's priced artificially high so when you negotiate you think it's a good deal buying a Maxima for 26. But you compare that to what else is avail for 26 and you realize it's no bargain. Honda is the opposite--they can have a mini-van listing for over 30 and people will pay over list for it.

Is your skin so thin, that a salesguy who only has that job so he can use the phone for personal calls at work, laughs at you? His paycheck is the only thing anyone should be laughing about.

 

you asked for advice in 27 different posts then don't like the answers?

you asked, and more than on person has stated you should offer $15.5 ... If you think it's unrealistic then what do YOU think it's worth??? Offer $1000 less than that and see what happens.

Or get the reverend Al Sharpton to do your bidding...

 

There is a 2002 SE listed for sale on this forum for around $19,950, check it out. That dealer's price is way out of line!

 

Yeah, even Nissan bogus "certified" is around 20995 for a 2k2. But the kid wants super black 2k for that much so what the hey, as long as nobody laughs at him.

deals galore

 

READ THIS IF U WANT TO KNOW HOW TO GET A BARGAIN.

This is what you do. First look online... check to see if this dealer has this same car listed online. Almost always if they do its listed less online than on the lot. Then negotiate w/ that price you got online if its lower. If not continue searching online for the same car and options for a lower price. Use those prices you get from other places as ur bargaining chip. Negotiate w/ those prices. Go to a credit union before going into the dealer (usually 2 weeks before so u can be approved) and get a loan from them. Credit Union almost always have lower interest than other banks and definetly lower than what the dealer gives you. Remember dealers rip u off 99.99% of the time. Get however much u think you'll pay for the car. Don't get 20 grand out tho, but whatever you think is a reasonable price you're willing to pay for the car. Then take that preapproved paper they give u and bring it w/ u to the dealership. Negotiate w/ the dealer w/ the lower prices you found online for that same car. Ask them to give u a lower price than what u found, but keep in mind what your approved loan is. After he gives you a decent price tell him u have blank (however much money u got a loan for) amount of money and will buy it right now for that price (only if ur loan price is lower than what u could negotiate to). NO point in paying more if u dont have to. Show him ur approved paper. Make sure u let him know ur a serious buyer and will by now for that price. Most likely they'll reject it and try to push the price up. But stay firm and say this is all u have and all u can afford. They'll ask if u have family memembers or friend who can lend some money.. Tell them no, ur family is in bad shape blah blah. Stay firm on ur final price.. dont be suckered into paying more. They'll probably den tell u that they'll try and give u a loan themselves for the price they wanted to sell it to u. Tell them no u dont' want a loan from them b/c their interest rates will be higher than what you got it for w/ ur credit union (and it will be). Then they'll probably tell u no deal. Tell them "ok, if you guys change your mind give me a call.. i have the money ready to buy today for this price that is if i dont decide to just buy it from those other dealers at a lower price" Keep in mind to do all this near the END OF THE MONTH. Thats when most car salesman at dealership have to meet a certain quota. Leave the place. Within a few days u should get a call back telling u they're willing to make a deal or they'll say some BS like "yeah, come back in... we're having a one day sale and we can probably meet ur price". Just remember to pick a decent price you're willing to buy at and stick to it. Don't show them that you can be pushed around.. Bring friends along so they can keep u on track. And oh yeah, if u find somethings wrong w/ ur car while buying it and u want it fixed.. like lets say u find that theres a scratch or chip in the paint somewhere. If the dealer tells u "yeah we'll fix that before we give it to u" Don't believe them. Make them put all offers in writing.. ALL OFFERS AND DEALS MADE put it all in writting even if its small. B/c if its not in the contract they don't have to go thru w/ it after the cars been sold.

Now thats the end to my very long post. Hope this helps u out.

 

kbb (the actual book) is retail prices of what dealers ask for the car; not what they are selling for.

your price should be below kbb.

20K is insane, espeically since they probably don't have records for it. is there anything special about the car, stereo system, mods, etc that would justify in increased price.

 

One owner, Lady Driven. One of the Dealer's aunts husband died. It was her car and she traded it in for a minivan. All service was done at the dealership. Has every option and is black, Bose system as well.

 

just buy a car.. any car so you can just STFU

 

Dude do you have a life? I'm here and only here to get help finding a max. You are reading all of these posts and responding for what reason? What a loser

 

 

I'll add my 2 cents.

I think you are going to pay too much for that car because it sounds as if you are already married to it.

Spend some time learning how to negotiate. Others have hit a lot of the basics, but if you WANT a particular vehicle and you LET THE DEALER KNOW, you lose.

If you want the best deal, you MUST set the price you want to pay in your mind - what you would take it for, bid enough below that so you can move, WALK OUT at least once, and don't be afraid to lose the car.

I'm betting you pay at least $2k too much if you buy it.

 

jmh8: How many times do I have to tell you? You are too stupid to own a Maxima. Go buy another honda and fill their forums with 30 useless posts!

 

It is a base SE model as the 2000 is a fully loaded with leather. To some people, fully loaded is more important than extra 33 hp and no options.

 

Shaydz

 

SprintMax... that's the funniest damn thing...

Oh, and jhm...whatever, if you *believe* this:

One owner, Lady Driven. One of the Dealer's aunts husband died. It was her car and she traded it in for a minivan. All service was done at the dealership

then

[i]You are too stupid to own a Maxima.[i/]

 

It's true that if a person gets into a must have situation, all bargaining power is off. I am fully confident that I can squeeze blood from stones when it comes to a car. You have to be willing to treat the auto people like high school dropouts. You don't have to be rude, but if the games begin, you have to be willing to put them down like a rabid dog.

Do I know everything? Of course not. So I understand that people turn to others for advice. Are you kidding me? I know nothing about homes and I recently bought one. Along with it came landscaping, gardening, painting, finishing off the basement, avant garde furniture, killer surround sound, school and property taxes, escrow accounts, etc. I was as green as the poster is to Maximas only 3 months ago. But I learned and am still learning from friends who have done the same s*** already. This buyer most likely means well, but perhaps he feels he is in a must have situation. The all option thing seems to be one of his hangups. The options are really worthless, my car is all option too. So what? You buy the right car at the right price imho.

 

Dude,
Just put it in your mind that there are at least 30 maximas in a 20 mile radius for sale that are just as awe-inspiring and beautiful.

Don't get so attached to this one. I don't believe the little ole lady crap that only drove on Sundays thing. Don't believe the dealer. He is not your buddy. He just wants to sell a car for as much money as possible.

If you go in with the mindset that you don't HAVE to have this car and if you wait a week another WILL come up even nicer for less money, you'll never let them control the deal. I agree with others offer 1K less than you will pay (17K sound like a good "max" amount to pay for this car) and if they can't meet your max amount, walk.
Even if they don't call you, just be patient another "bargain" will present itself. If you are dropping that much for a car make sure you don't give away money needlessly.

Now, I think you've exhausted the board for advice on this - please make the purchase, find another one, or whatever. Multiple posts asking the same question really ****es some people off on this board. When you come back as a Max owner, you'll be welcomed then told to "USE THE SEARCH"! Hehe, we're not bad folks, we just type that way sometimes. This and other max boards (max-world.org, 5thgenmaximas.com, etc.) are the best place for info but we have little patience for the same conversation more than say 8 or 9 times (which seems to be the number of times we beat anything to death).

Good Luck

Shaydz

 

Just for your info. I bought the car. It was a dealers aunt that owned it and her husband DID just die. Wasn't Bull ****. The dealer called her because she forgot to turn in the extra key and transmitter. Car is mint. Not a scratch. 15,250 miles. Black with gray leather, bose, heated seats. Got it for $18k and a 7 yr. 100,000 mile warranty.

 

That's not a bad deal at all! Not with the condition and the miles.


WELCOME TO THE .ORG!!


now "Use the thing called search, Dammit"! (Sorry had to be the first to say it- you'll probably hear it again). Now you'll get modding fever and spend all your time on this and other Maxima boards like http://www.max-world.org.

See what you signed up for?

Congragulations again.


Shaydz

 

Congradulations!